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Thread: Brake Service

  1. #1

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    Brake Service

    Hey everyone. Just serviced my brakes. New pads, cleaned and greased calipers in the front. New shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, and lube for the rear. The old cylinders were bad so overall it feels much better. The bottom 1/3rd of pressing the brake pedal is very firm, but the top 2/3rds are a bit soft. Is this normal? I adjusted the drum brakes so that they barely rub when depressed. You can hear it slightly but it doesn’t significantly slow the wheel down from spinning freely.

    They feel safe but I am worried they might wear unevenly/present other issues or are otherwise not adjusted properly.

  2. #2


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    Hello Sam 'n welcome to MightyRam50.Net

    My suggestions:

    Get some manuals for your truck; Chilton, Hanes & OEM manuals are still available (ebay is our friend)...
    Spongy or soft feel in the brake pedal is not usually a positive attribute...
    Unless you have a fancy Amazon DIY brake bleeder; have a helper bleed the brakes once or twice more (a couple reservoirs of brake fluid)
    Make sure the mechanical adjustment on drum brake is correct too...

    I noticed fluid stain on my trucks rear driver brake backing plate AND I sense the brake pedal acting a bit soft & a bit lower pedal to get braking...
    So very soon I hope to fix my brakes as well as yours...

    Others here will have better answers for ya...
    Enjoy Orange County
    George
    Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive

  3. #3

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    Thanks George, I have the requisite manuals and did all the work accordingly which is why I was uncertain. Just need to bleed them more it seems like.

    Sounds like it’s time for new cylinders for you too, good luck with your fix

  4. #4



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    When you push on the pedal and start the truck. Does it sink a little. Because that’s what it should do.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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  5. #5


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    SMR & CAMOIT

    MB238829 RR and MB238828 LR <--- these are Amayama rear brake cylinders for L200 truck (hope they fit?) instead of buying rebuild rubber pieces I think 40 year old leaking brake parts should just be replaced $97.70 EACH OMG

    Just checked NAPA they have rear brake cylinders @ $36.00 each...

    I had to replace the power brake vacuum chamber assy a few years ago (a rebuilt O'Reilly's special or was it ebay? I forget) anyway the original brake pedal feel was exactly as camoit says pedal lowers some from vacuum when engine is started the original Mitsu part did that BUT THIS rebuilt suckers does nothing when starting the engine... The reason it was replaced was brake fluid kept disappearing filling it up and the engine too...

    More Parts to replace as always it seems OFF TOPIC LESSON LEARNED TODAY door lower outside window rubber strip slots are ruted bad on my drivers door after rust fix I WILL NOT use the OEM metal clips to attach the rubber strip ASKING FOR MORE RUST I plan to use 3M adhesion promoter spray and 3M VHB foam tape...

    Sayonara $$$
    Last edited by xboxrox; 05-27-2025 at 02:47 PM.
    Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive

  6. #6


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    Quote Originally Posted by smr1618 View Post
    Hey everyone. Just serviced my brakes. New pads, cleaned and greased calipers in the front. New shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, and lube for the rear. The old cylinders were bad so overall it feels much better. The bottom 1/3rd of pressing the brake pedal is very firm, but the top 2/3rds are a bit soft. Is this normal? I adjusted the drum brakes so that they barely rub when depressed. You can hear it slightly but it doesn’t significantly slow the wheel down from spinning freely.

    They feel safe but I am worried they might wear unevenly/present other issues or are otherwise not adjusted properly.
    Bleeding Procedure Photo:
    20250528_164921.jpg
    Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive

  7. #7

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    It does but my concern is coming from normal use while the car is on. Think it's just excess air, finally getting around to it today though will update later. Appreciate your help

  8. #8

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    Wow, those are expensive. I just went with what autozone is selling, 57.08 for both. Not sure if you can get those out in HI or not.

    Funny you should mention the window seals. Luckily no rust on mine but I thought the metal clips were an interesting choice/the window seals in general. Was debating the same when I just put power windows in and got new seals. It's also impossible to find replacements for the rubberized metal strip with holes for the inner seal tabs that slots into the plastic clips on the inner panel, so I modeled up and printed replacements for those in ABS as well that I am trying to make work instead of the metal ones that are clapped.

  9. #9

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    Just needed to bleed more, feeling nice and firm now. Appreciate the help from everyone. Interestingly enough, my MM is a 2.0l RWD but the rear driver side drum has lines like the AWD diagram.

  10. #10


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    Quote Originally Posted by smr1618 View Post
    Just needed to bleed more, feeling nice and firm now. Appreciate the help from everyone. Interestingly enough, my MM is a 2.0l RWD but the rear driver side drum has lines like the AWD diagram.
    Good Job smr
    Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive

  11. #11


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    O'Reilly's has the wheel cyl & now I hope they have the brake shoes 'n hardware for both rears as well... The mechanic helping me today said do both sides since the LR shoes were soaking wet wth brake fluid...

    We have one NAPA & one O'Reillys here in Kailua...
    Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive

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