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Thread: Clearwater cylinder head

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  1. #1


    Array
    Status
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    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    1,549
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    I am smelling sage Vernon has been silent about our job he accepted to finish before Christmas ~ tomorrow I plan to phone Kaneohe Marine Base Five O Motors mgr Chad to see if he can free up an outdoor covered stall for doing fixes that can take a while ~ if yes then my auto insurance co. has said no problem towing your truck with my full coverage ~ I would have to do this job with staff help 'n tools and wife's help on weekend ~ these stalls are $10.00 a 24hr day


    Cleaning carbon with fire: http://https://youtu.be/g_78_MNvhy4
    Last edited by xboxrox; 12-28-2022 at 12:22 AM.

  2. #2

    Array
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    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    482
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    I am smelling sage Vernon has been silent about our job he accepted to finish before Christmas ~ tomorrow I plan to phone Kaneohe Marine Base Five O Motors mgr Chad to see if he can free up an outdoor covered stall for doing fixes that can take a while ~ if yes then my auto insurance co. has said no problem towing your truck with my full coverage ~ I would have to do this job with staff help 'n tools and wife's help on weekend ~ these stalls are $10.00 a 24hr day.
    Looks like a good plan if Vernon doesn't come through. I think you could do it if you take your time, follow the Haynes manual, have your wife and others around to assist, and have the basic wrenches and sockets available. The only special tool needed is a torque wrench.
    While you sort things out, install the 20 or so exhaust and intake manifold studs in the new head. Use the two nut method shown in this U-tube:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYKMtb3Jpo
    Install the shorter threaded end into the head and torque the studs to 15 ft/lbs. It's easier when the head is off and will save you or Vernon shop time. If the new head didn't come with studs for the fuel pump, use ones intended for the exhaust manifold. Then they'll be in place if you choose to bolt the intake manifold to the head and install them together on the block. Later, just remove a couple studs from the old head to use as the "missing" exhaust studs.
    Lastly, remove a cam tower/cap bolt and shoot a blast of canned air at the bottom of the bolt hole to clean out any metal shavings lurking in the hole. Then reinstall the bolt. Do one bolt hole at a time and you won't have to worry about the hydraulic adjusters falling out of the rockers. Save that for when you decide which cam to use.

  3. #3


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    1,549
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    Looks like a good plan if Vernon doesn't come through. I think you could do it if you take your time, follow the Haynes manual, have your wife and others around to assist, and have the basic wrenches and sockets available. The only special tool needed is a torque wrench.
    While you sort things out, install the 20 or so exhaust and intake manifold studs in the new head. Use the two nut method shown in this U-tube:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYKMtb3Jpo
    Install the shorter threaded end into the head and torque the studs to 15 ft/lbs. It's easier when the head is off and will save you or Vernon shop time. If the new head didn't come with studs for the fuel pump, use ones intended for the exhaust manifold. Then they'll be in place if you choose to bolt the intake manifold to the head and install them together on the block. Later, just remove a couple studs from the old head to use as the "missing" exhaust studs.
    Lastly, remove a cam tower/cap bolt and shoot a blast of canned air at the bottom of the bolt hole to clean out any metal shavings lurking in the hole. Then reinstall the bolt. Do one bolt hole at a time and you won't have to worry about the hydraulic adjusters falling out of the rockers. Save that for when you decide which cam to use.
    FMS kudos for your clever advice, especially the metal chips & stud install info..! (all 26 Chinese studs identical)

    HERE IS THE LATEST:

    Phoned Five O Motors (no luck, no stalls & no manager until sometime next week) later today will text Vernon to ask when/if he can do the job...

    Watched this YouTube video (test & compare USA and Chinese valve springs): https://youtu.be/DMFikj-TAqo
    I phoned Powel Machine Inc. spoke with Daniel (the guy in the video) he said reuse your entire Mitsubishi rocker arm assemblies, hydraulic lifters and camshaft BUT do use the new Chinese valves and springs..! He said the Chinese rocker arms are soft metal too and will wear quickly on the end that touches the cam lobe... His forklift has the G54B engine so although they do not sell any parts for our trucks he is well aware of this engines characteristics...

    Emailed Amayama waiting for their reply; asked if they have 1 ea MD077306 camshaft available, in stock, and shipping time to Hawaii USA just in case; their price the cheapest $411.00 and $43.00 shipping... OMG

    Well, all in all the BIG PICTURE is coming into place for using a Chinese cylinder head...

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