The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay. Mitsubishi trucks have an inlet duct on Gen 1's above the right side headlight frame in an attempt to alleviate lack of available dense air to mix for an air/fuel charge. This is why I don't recommend or use open element air intake cleaners. The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. The EFI engine looks like that is nothing more than a standard barrel air cleaner with a MAF sensor in it (Mitsubishi used a similar air cleaner on early to mid 80's cars). I would disconnect the air duct from the inlet and extend it down towards somewhere below the frame rail and aim the end of it towards the front of the truck. The longer air duct increases torque, and being able to pull an air charge from somewhere that isn't getting heat soak from the radiator (hot air travelling up and what-not) should help. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...
The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it![]()
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