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Thread: Mikuni carburetor

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  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay. Mitsubishi trucks have an inlet duct on Gen 1's above the right side headlight frame in an attempt to alleviate lack of available dense air to mix for an air/fuel charge. This is why I don't recommend or use open element air intake cleaners. The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. The EFI engine looks like that is nothing more than a standard barrel air cleaner with a MAF sensor in it (Mitsubishi used a similar air cleaner on early to mid 80's cars). I would disconnect the air duct from the inlet and extend it down towards somewhere below the frame rail and aim the end of it towards the front of the truck. The longer air duct increases torque, and being able to pull an air charge from somewhere that isn't getting heat soak from the radiator (hot air travelling up and what-not) should help. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

    The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it

  2. #2


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    1,549
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay.The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

    The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it
    Agree; the glue job is not bad; wish now that I would have spent $30 for 3 teaspoons of 600F epoxy + $15 shipping ~ not really but sorta feel it... Actually, the glue joint could be Dremel excavated all around both inner & outer with a "U" groove and filled in with 600F epoxy...
    I want my truck to run again...
    Last edited by xboxrox; 09-06-2020 at 02:24 AM.

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