Weber Conversion miracle cure!

The Weber carb conversion kit came in the mail today along with the new electric fuel pump! The conversion kit is the WK614 with the 32/36 DFEV carb and I went with an AC Delco EP42S fuel pump. Here are some pictures:

Weber conversion kit WK614
Attachment 5284

Weber 32/36 DFEV
Attachment 5285

ACDelco EP42S Electric Fuel pump
Attachment 5286

Original Mikuni Solex POS, begging to be retired!
Attachment 5287

I still need to get an oil pressure switch and a fuel pump relay. I'm not sure where I am supposed to put the oil pressure switch, anyone know where that plugs in? I found this site that diagrams an electric fuel pump install: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
Is that site along the right track?

That is exactly how I did mine - the switch goes into the place of the oil presure light on the lower passenger side of the block. You will need a metric to 1/8 npt adaptor to thread the switch into the hole. the wiring is as described.

Don't throw all the old stuff away too!, you may need it someday.
lol You'll probably take off 50 lbs. of smog crap in this mod.

You can use an oil switch or a device that detects a hard impact. Crash or Impact sensors can be reset if false alarmed and cost in the area of $100.

For the relay can I use either a 30amp or 40amp relay? I found the 30 amp here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890023 and I found a 40 amp here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890023

Is it best to use a kit like these or is there another way to do it? All the auto parts stores around here don have kits like this in stock so I was hoping there might be away to avoid having to order one and wait for it.

40 amp is herehttp://www.amazon.com/Painless-50102...sim_sbs_auto_5

I think the pump doesn't use 30 amps, check the package and see what it uses. I think 30 is fine though, Im using 30's

I checked with the fuel pump packaging and instructions and it doesn't say anything about a relay, but it does say to use a 10 amp fuse. So I'm not really sure what kind of relay I need.

30 is the normal relay used. Relay helps keep power from being used from the dash and uses it from the alternator. doesn't rob your engine running power like a direct connection would do

30 amp relay is more than enough - it won't burn up from switching a 10 amp load. BTW - if it is saying to use a 10 amp fuse, it is probably only drawing 3-5 amps running and 6-8 at startup - there is always a safety factor when picking a fuse.

Where do you get a metric to 1/8 npt conversion for the oil pressure switch, having a hard time finding, everyone keeps telling me to tap the block, not thrilled with this option

And what size is the metric thread in the block

Napa sells a kit with a variety of adaptor fittings - I can't remember what the thread is, but I will check it on a spare block I have and post it on here. You are right in saying that is not a good option.

thanks for the info. I don't have the relay yet but I will go for the 30 amp. Can I get a normal relay or should I get one of these kits?

Also here is how I have the electric fuel pump set up. No wires hooked up yet but this is the best I could stuff it in the small space.
Let me know what you all think.

Attachment 5356

Attachment 5357

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Napa sells a kit with a variety of adaptor fittings - I can't remember what the thread is, but I will check it on a spare block I have and post it on here. You are right in saying that is not a good option.

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Strange as this sounds, 1/8 in. x 27 NPT, is what they list as the block thread, but I cant get a 1/8 fitting in it

Maybe this will help you out. http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm Determine the thread of the fitting that you took out.

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Originally Posted by Andy 2

Maybe this will help you out. http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm Determine the thread of the fitting that you took out.

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I'm not convinced its a metric thread, first it's tapered, second it will thread into a 1/8 npt fitting, just not viseversa

I'm very interested in this upgrade ( ie weber carb, fuel pump, ditching smog.....) is there a preferred fuel pump, I noticed you bought an ac deco pump, I have been referred to a Carter 40/70 electric fuel pump in the past, and I'm glad you've brought up the question about a relay, wouldn't have seen it comin till I was knee deep. I'm not interestered in hijacking this thread for this oil pressure thread issue, but I'm going to run both a gauge and the switch for that relay wich means I have too tee off an 1/8 fitting

Compare the threads of your trucks oil pressure switch with those of the new part by holding them beside each other and meshing the threads. If they don't mesh they're not the same and you will need an adapter. An industrial hydraulic supplier should be able to help you. Just take both parts with you and see if they can find you an adapter.

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Originally Posted by Tasman

I'm very interested in this upgrade ( ie weber carb, fuel pump, ditching smog.....) is there a preferred fuel pump, I noticed you bought an ac deco pump, I have been referred to a Carter 40/70 electric fuel pump in the past, and I'm glad you've brought up the question about a relay, wouldn't have seen it comin till I was knee deep. I'm not interestered in hijacking this thread for this oil pressure thread issue, but I'm going to run both a gauge and the switch for that relay wich means I have too tee off an 1/8 fitting

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Hijack away... I would be asking the same questions you've brought up about the oil pressure switch and threads sooner or later, I just haven't gotten to the switch yet. It seems like there should be a pressure switch that also has the gauge incorporated into as well. Just my thought, I don't know if that's just my own crazy idea or if there is actually something like that out there.

When I remove the oil pressure gauge is oil going to pour out? Do I need to drain the oil? I ask just because I just changed the oil in the truck before ripping things apart.

As long as the engine is turned off you shouldn't get too much oil dripping out. As far as the pressure switch goes, I would think what you need is a tee fitting that will let you use both your trucks oil pressure switch for the oil light or gauge in your instrument cluster, and the low pressure shut off for your fuel pump. You may be able to find a fuel pump safety switch that shuts the pump off when the oil light comes on but I have no idea where to suggest looking for something like that.

Try taking both of the pressure switches to a hardware store and see if they will screw into a 1/8" NPT pipe fitting. If they do, all you will need is a few dollars worth of fittings to get both units hooked up.

I am still gathering parts for the fuel pump install, I'm picking up the oil pressure switch today. I have a question about what kind of wire to use. The wires coming out of the fuel pump (one for ground one for power) are both a small gauge wire. I can't tell exactly but I would guess no thicker than 14g. You all have suggested that you need to run 10g to the fuel pump. How should I deal with this thinner wire? The pump is one of those can types that seems to be sealed on both ends, so I don't think I can take it apart to switch in a 10g wire.

I put my relay back by the pump - that way the + lead comes off the relay and in your case solves the difference in gauge of wire issue.

Ok sounds good to me, I'm pretty inexperienced with electrical wiring, so I'm sorry for the rookie questions. Where did you put the fuse? To me it seem like the fuse should be in between the relay and the pump. Is the right?

Hey guys I've got the fuel pump all wired up and the weber is installed. I have to say I had to get pretty fancy trying to tighten the bolts that hold the carb to the adapter plate, there is no good way to access them. Also I'm about ready to burn the haynes manual I bought for this truck, totally worthless.

I have a question about the electric choke. I'm having trouble locating where the power source should be coming from. Is it one of the wires that originally went to the old carb? Anyone know which one?

Right off the top of my head, I know on mine there was a plug with about 8 connectors on it that was with the smog stuff. There is a connector in that plug that is used and is the onlyone used on the entire plug after smog is removed. Someone here will have a more specific answer then I gave since I am not at my vehicle right now. I could take a picture and post it if you need it right away. This same connection I think can also be used for signaling the fuel pump as well if I am not mistaken.
The connector is real close to the battery under the hood.

ok, I found the connector you are talking about and there are 4 black wires with white stripes going into the connector, then there is a yellow, a yellow w/blue stripe and a yellow w/red stripe. All the black w/white wires have power when the key is in the IGN position.

Attachment 5430

the plug clip is that extra area shown on the image i posted

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Attachment 5430

the plug clip is that extra area shown on the image i posted

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Do you know what color wire the choke wire is plugged into? I have an extra slot where your image is red, but this slot is blank, there is no wire entering this area.

I guess a better question is, should the electric choke be getting 12v when the key is in the IGN position?

the answer is yes - it needs the +12 to heat up the spring to open the choke, and needs to stay there while running to keep the choke from closing.

Thanks, I was able to figure it out. I ran it on Sunday and it sounds and feels great! I'm going to try and tag it this week if I can convince my insurance company to insure it as a classic car.

Might want to look at rejetting the carb too if you find it's running a bit rich. Mine was significantly more gassy than with the stock carb. I just changed out the jets myself, and it's easy pie. I'll post more as I have more results but I'm down here in Texas, ran it with the AC and stuff on to put some draw on the system and it held temperature just fine. I sized down the idle jets too as it was mega gassy when idling. Once we get some 95+ degree weather I'll let it idle for a good half hour or so and see how the temp holds up.

I went from a 140/137 main to 130/125 and 60/50 on the Idle jets to a 50/40. Retuned, idles and sounds great.

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Originally Posted by greenteagod

Might want to look at rejetting the carb too if you find it's running a bit rich. Mine was significantly more gassy than with the stock carb. I just changed out the jets myself, and it's easy pie. I'll post more as I have more results but I'm down here in Texas, ran it with the AC and stuff on to put some draw on the system and it held temperature just fine. I sized down the idle jets too as it was mega gassy when idling. Once we get some 95+ degree weather I'll let it idle for a good half hour or so and see how the temp holds up.

I went from a 140/137 main to 130/125 and 60/50 on the Idle jets to a 50/40. Retuned, idles and sounds great.

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I got my Webber like a month ago and it runs like ass cause of the jetting im am surprised that the jetting needs to be smaller. You get your jets local or order them in off one of the Web sites?

I just got mine online. I'm actually looking at going down another size or two, but I need to get a meter on the exhaust to really tube it past this point. I still have a bit of a stumble.

Is your stumble right as you push the throttle the slightest bit? Cause mine does the same exact thing and it really annoys me cause when im on a trail or in a parking lot it's fuckin slamming all around if you touch the gas, tired of it. Paid 280 for the damn carb that thing should work perfectly butt no always a flaw in the system. :thumbdown:

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Originally Posted by revvedUpToTheMax

Is your stumble right as you push the throttle the slightest bit? Cause mine does the same exact thing and it really annoys me cause when im on a trail or in a parking lot it's fuckin slamming all around if you touch the gas, tired of it. Paid 280 for the damn carb that thing should work perfectly butt no always a flaw in the system. :thumbdown:

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My stumble is actually once it gets about 1/4 throttle. Yeah I was a bit miffed as well when I got mine and it wasn't bolt on magic, especially when they advertise it as being correctly adjusted out of the box. But yeah I'd get a few jets, play around with em. Fortunately they're super easy to change out so there's no real big issue there.

One thing people comment on is to make sure you have the right fuel pressure. I ended up converting over to an electric pump, though I can't say I really noticed any particular issue with the mechanical one, though perhaps in the long run it would have caused issues.

I went to 130/125 on the mains and 50/40 on the idles. I'd say get those, as well as the next size down and the next size up. I think mine could stand to have a little more leaning out. It definitely doesn't smell nearly as gassy as it did before, but I'd like to clean that up a bit more if possible.

So in the weber swap u cant use the electric pump already there from factory?

It's a mechanical pump from the factory. You can use it, but it puts out about 2-3x the pressure recommended for the weber.

Oh cus i thought my 88 2.0 had an electric. Though im new to these things and all ive done a mikuni already on mine which is stilll a pos lol. But i thought i read they were electric and the 2.6 was manual pump.

Hmm maybe so. I do have the 2.6 so I know mine was mechanical. I guess it would all depend on what PSI the electric is delivering if you could use it. What that is, I don't know.

ok guys, check this out from my weber, http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-weber-tuning

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Originally Posted by mopar_ja

ok guys, check this out from my weber, http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-weber-tuning

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Read the whole thing, what kinda mileage you get with that jetting? I got what came with the Webber so 137 main 140 secondary and what ever for the idle and I get some really horrible mileage. We are talking like 10 if your mating it every once in a while and I consider them jets to be small. I consider wrong I guess hahaha

And im 194 ft above sea level here.

i'm getting about 18 in town never tested on highway I really don't drive it there.

These are universal carbs. They are not mighty max/d50 specific and even if they were, at different sea levels you will need different jetting. There is no way they could ship it to you and have you slap it on and be perfect. That is the hassle with carbs is that they are not self adjusting like an
EFI system is.