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Thread: Weber Conversion miracle cure!

  1. #1

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    Weber Conversion miracle cure!

    The Weber carb conversion kit came in the mail today along with the new electric fuel pump! The conversion kit is the WK614 with the 32/36 DFEV carb and I went with an AC Delco EP42S fuel pump. Here are some pictures:

    Weber conversion kit WK614
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    Weber 32/36 DFEV
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    ACDelco EP42S Electric Fuel pump
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    Original Mikuni Solex POS, begging to be retired!
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    I still need to get an oil pressure switch and a fuel pump relay. I'm not sure where I am supposed to put the oil pressure switch, anyone know where that plugs in? I found this site that diagrams an electric fuel pump install: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
    Is that site along the right track?

  2. #2



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    That is exactly how I did mine - the switch goes into the place of the oil presure light on the lower passenger side of the block. You will need a metric to 1/8 npt adaptor to thread the switch into the hole. the wiring is as described.
    Pennyman1
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  3. #3



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    Don't throw all the old stuff away too!, you may need it someday.
    lol You'll probably take off 50 lbs. of smog crap in this mod.

  4. #4



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    You can use an oil switch or a device that detects a hard impact. Crash or Impact sensors can be reset if false alarmed and cost in the area of $100.

  5. #5

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    For the relay can I use either a 30amp or 40amp relay? I found the 30 amp here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890023 and I found a 40 amp here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890023

    Is it best to use a kit like these or is there another way to do it? All the auto parts stores around here don have kits like this in stock so I was hoping there might be away to avoid having to order one and wait for it.

  6. #6

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  7. #7



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    I think the pump doesn't use 30 amps, check the package and see what it uses. I think 30 is fine though, Im using 30's

  8. #8

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    I checked with the fuel pump packaging and instructions and it doesn't say anything about a relay, but it does say to use a 10 amp fuse. So I'm not really sure what kind of relay I need.

  9. #9



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    30 is the normal relay used. Relay helps keep power from being used from the dash and uses it from the alternator. doesn't rob your engine running power like a direct connection would do
    Last edited by BradMph; 04-19-2013 at 08:00 PM.

  10. #10



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    30 amp relay is more than enough - it won't burn up from switching a 10 amp load. BTW - if it is saying to use a 10 amp fuse, it is probably only drawing 3-5 amps running and 6-8 at startup - there is always a safety factor when picking a fuse.
    Pennyman1
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  11. #11

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    Where do you get a metric to 1/8 npt conversion for the oil pressure switch, having a hard time finding, everyone keeps telling me to tap the block, not thrilled with this option

  12. #12

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    And what size is the metric thread in the block

  13. #13



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    Napa sells a kit with a variety of adaptor fittings - I can't remember what the thread is, but I will check it on a spare block I have and post it on here. You are right in saying that is not a good option.
    Pennyman1
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  14. #14

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    thanks for the info. I don't have the relay yet but I will go for the 30 amp. Can I get a normal relay or should I get one of these kits?

    Also here is how I have the electric fuel pump set up. No wires hooked up yet but this is the best I could stuff it in the small space.
    Let me know what you all think.

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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    Napa sells a kit with a variety of adaptor fittings - I can't remember what the thread is, but I will check it on a spare block I have and post it on here. You are right in saying that is not a good option.
    Strange as this sounds, 1/8 in. x 27 NPT, is what they list as the block thread, but I cant get a 1/8 fitting in it

  16. #16

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    Maybe this will help you out. http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm Determine the thread of the fitting that you took out.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy 2 View Post
    Maybe this will help you out. http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm Determine the thread of the fitting that you took out.
    I'm not convinced its a metric thread, first it's tapered, second it will thread into a 1/8 npt fitting, just not viseversa

  18. #18

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    I'm very interested in this upgrade ( ie weber carb, fuel pump, ditching smog.....) is there a preferred fuel pump, I noticed you bought an ac deco pump, I have been referred to a Carter 40/70 electric fuel pump in the past, and I'm glad you've brought up the question about a relay, wouldn't have seen it comin till I was knee deep. I'm not interestered in hijacking this thread for this oil pressure thread issue, but I'm going to run both a gauge and the switch for that relay wich means I have too tee off an 1/8 fitting

  19. #19

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    Compare the threads of your trucks oil pressure switch with those of the new part by holding them beside each other and meshing the threads. If they don't mesh they're not the same and you will need an adapter. An industrial hydraulic supplier should be able to help you. Just take both parts with you and see if they can find you an adapter.

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tasman View Post
    I'm very interested in this upgrade ( ie weber carb, fuel pump, ditching smog.....) is there a preferred fuel pump, I noticed you bought an ac deco pump, I have been referred to a Carter 40/70 electric fuel pump in the past, and I'm glad you've brought up the question about a relay, wouldn't have seen it comin till I was knee deep. I'm not interestered in hijacking this thread for this oil pressure thread issue, but I'm going to run both a gauge and the switch for that relay wich means I have too tee off an 1/8 fitting
    Hijack away... I would be asking the same questions you've brought up about the oil pressure switch and threads sooner or later, I just haven't gotten to the switch yet. It seems like there should be a pressure switch that also has the gauge incorporated into as well. Just my thought, I don't know if that's just my own crazy idea or if there is actually something like that out there.

  21. #21

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    When I remove the oil pressure gauge is oil going to pour out? Do I need to drain the oil? I ask just because I just changed the oil in the truck before ripping things apart.

  22. #22

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    As long as the engine is turned off you shouldn't get too much oil dripping out. As far as the pressure switch goes, I would think what you need is a tee fitting that will let you use both your trucks oil pressure switch for the oil light or gauge in your instrument cluster, and the low pressure shut off for your fuel pump. You may be able to find a fuel pump safety switch that shuts the pump off when the oil light comes on but I have no idea where to suggest looking for something like that.

  23. #23

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    Try taking both of the pressure switches to a hardware store and see if they will screw into a 1/8" NPT pipe fitting. If they do, all you will need is a few dollars worth of fittings to get both units hooked up.

  24. #24

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    I am still gathering parts for the fuel pump install, I'm picking up the oil pressure switch today. I have a question about what kind of wire to use. The wires coming out of the fuel pump (one for ground one for power) are both a small gauge wire. I can't tell exactly but I would guess no thicker than 14g. You all have suggested that you need to run 10g to the fuel pump. How should I deal with this thinner wire? The pump is one of those can types that seems to be sealed on both ends, so I don't think I can take it apart to switch in a 10g wire.

  25. #25



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    I put my relay back by the pump - that way the + lead comes off the relay and in your case solves the difference in gauge of wire issue.
    Pennyman1
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