Is there any need to keep the EGR valve and associated hose?Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
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Is there any need to keep the EGR valve and associated hose?Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Nope, ditch the lot. It is an inherent part of the issues with these engines - the EGR system messes with the engine tune and most of the time no longer functions due them being fouled up by carbon. You can simply disconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve as they don't on draw manifold vacuum internally (obviously cap off the vacuum barb the EGR valve hose was connected to on the manifold or you will have a vac leak as a result).
yeppers agreed that what i did when i installed mine got rid of all the mess i was amazed at how much room there was afterwards lol the only thing i have hooked up is the vacuum advance from the distributor to the carb caped everything else offQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Thanks you-all!! Going with the strip-it-all approach. What did you do with the exhaust manifold heat shield and piping (huge)?
A friend of mine recommended a simple but practical solution - remove the tube and install an o2 sensor. Plugs the hole and gives you something to monitor your engine tune. I had an EGO meter in another project and nothing gives you a more accurate indicator of how your mixtures are looking in real time. I would leave the heat shielding as the factory manifold isn't a work of art and you really need to do everything you can to keep engine bay temps down.
What about the big pipe which comes from the heat shield and wraps around the rear of the valve cover? Can it go?
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Yep, that can go too. You'll have to find a bung or cap to seal off the intake end of the pipework but it will get rid of the ridiculous amount of plumbing hanging off the engine and eliminate the risk of an exhaust/intake leak in the process. This EGR system was bad news for engine performance - you should be able to get it running really well once this junk has been deleted.
when i got my weber it came with two plugs i put one in and about a week later i was going down the road and it blew out talk about loud lol sounded like open headers . so i put the other one in this time i used red loc tight so far so good.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Hi i'm not sure if this is the best place to post this, since i am new to the forum. I am wanting to replace my Mikuni with the weber 32/36. Its an 88 2.6 4wd. Not sure the differences between the few carbs that are offered. Can someone tell me which model it is that i need? Thanks!
My kit is the KM614 I think it's for the 1980 D-50 2.6 ltr with manual tranny, no mods required. Just installs cleanly.
So with my 2.6l 4wd 88 i need the 32/36 DFEV, Is that correct?
Don't know about it for the 88 ...mine is a 80.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87RAMFIDDY
The carb configurations are all identical across the carbied trucks, so as long as you get the adapter kit and the throttle linkages are on the same side and rotation it's a straight forward enough deal. Guys with auto transmissions need a kick down adapter kit to go with it.
I must ask as i cant beleive theres nothing in here/barley any info on the entire web, about jetting these for the 4g54.
Im running:
Both idle jets:
55
Primary/secondary fuel:
145/140
Primary/secondary air jets:
170/175
This goes like stink, but it sucks gas ( not yet worked out the milage as my fuel gauge is a bit buggy)
I have extractors, 2.5 all the way thru with a hotdog, m6 head, bottom end is out of a forklift with forged crank/forklift oil pump( so no balance shafts) ported top of manifold and an italian weber with the redline adapter smoothed out.
Im running the mech fuel pump off the head, line into the weber and line out into the fuel return line on the chassis.
Blocked off fuel return on the mech pump.
Plz post what jets your running, as id love to fine tune the weber for a bit more economy
Attachment 19947
Attachment 19948
Fuel in on the right, return on the left. I'm not sure what the carb came off, its a DGAV 19A elec choke and the choke butterflies open down toward the fuelbowl.
Other photo is the dodgy looking but effective throttle body cam I modified to work as I wanted the fuelbowl forward so the jets arnt starved from inertia.
Also used a large spring off an old carter carb as a secondary throat kickdown and to make sure the throat is fully closed when off the gas. Theres a little resistance and a pop when the secondary's open
The mechanical pump over powers the weber needle and seat, forcing gas through the carb like you are dumping it in with a bucket. Change over to an electric pump at 4 psi, mounted at the tank will fix the problem. You must get the pressure right to the carb before messing with the jets.
that picture has now changed, its no longer offered
I dumped ALL EPA stuff; only kept the vaccum advance line, the idle-cut-off vacuum hose, and the crankcase breather pipe to the air cleaner. All the rest went. Runs great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerrigan
OK better get this up quick smart - see that metal cannister with the coloured tape on it? HOLD ONTO THE DAMNED THING. This is super handy for doing the Weber swap and redirecting fuel lines for fuel return systems. If you can't use it, some else doing the Weber swap definitely will. It's from the single inlet in/out mechanical fuel pump.
It is a fuel separator canister - it was on the early d50s up to 1981 in the US. Geronimo still has his.
Didn't need it to put the Weber on the 1980. One fuel line in, no return. Works great with just fuel line in, one vaccum advance line, and one crankcase vent breather pipe. Did leave the idle-cutout in to avoid more pipework.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Here is what I did to replace a Weber I apparently screwed up when I rebuilt it. I put a new one in and its all good. I do have a 1/2" spacer made of some kind of heat resistant plastic which is necessary on mine as heat affects the carb without it. As for the exhaust manifold removal of the smog pipe, I used a freeze plug. The prev owner had removed all that stuff and one day driving it whatever he had plugged it with popped out. Blew my mind for a few until I figured it out. I think it was 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. Fits tight hammered it so the top is level with the top.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ine+weber+K610
Any idea what you did wrong during the rebuild of the other Weber? New Weber looks good. Make sure you set the throttle stop as it prevents the butterflies from being seated up hard against the throat walls (looks like it wasn't set in the picture)
I got all that worked out. The install as in July 2017. I have no idea what I did wrong. I learned to be a mechanic on this truck starting with that mistake. My previous experience had been rebuilding my Yamaha 750 triple (4 stroke) carbs. I didn't figure there would be any problem. I still have it stuffed in the box the new one came in. I also have some extra parts they sent along that seemed unnecessary or I did not need. :)
Edit- In fact I have noticed that it is starting to get better mileage and take off from a stop better in the last few months. I think I might finally start breaking 300 miles on a tankful.
I just ordered my k614. There is a factory kick down lever for the auto trans. Think it was $5. The redline guy discounted everything.
Does anyone know what size the coolant holes on the manifold are? I was going to plug them just want to have everything on hand. I'll post up pics of my fuel pump and stuff.
You should drain the coolant below the level of the base of the carb mount surface on the intake. The hole are not very big using a rag to keep dirt out while you work around it should do fine. I just opened the petcock on the rad and let it drain into a clean bucket. If you want to see it look at the picture in the link I posted to my thread called "everything off"Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskyNick
You don't 'need' to plug the coolant holes up. Well, the coolant barb off the manifold where the heater hooks up to needs to be deleted but you can take the whole thing off and install a straight brass barb on there - makes it neater. However there is a coolant port under the base of the carb that you can seal off just to make sure it doesn't come back to haunt you. Use a metric M6 thread tap into the port and drop a hex key grub screw with some thread sealant in there to block it off. Done deal. Did the same to my intake manifold. It seemed to be one of those things that was either overlooked or no-one had come up with an easy way to fix it.
On the subject - there is a coolant gallery that passes from the manifold base to the thermostat chamber. If the 4G54's intake is anything like the G63B's as far as coolant flow is concerned, that gallery could be badly restricted from factory. I did something that, as far as I know doesn't get any thought - I ran the biggest drill bit that would fit from the thermostat chamber through that gallery to improve coolant flow (crazy, if not suicidal - I know...) It went from barely being able to poke a HB pencil through it to at least 8mm in diameter. Haven't tested it yet but if it helps coolant pass through the head faster, it was simple to do and worth it.
I' m late to the party but I finally picked up a Weber 32/36. Somewhat installed; I only have one fuel line and no return? Wiring in an electric pump via an add-a-circuit using the horn. Did have a question about setting up the cable.https://flic.kr/p/26YnHEShttps://flic.kr/p/MAzhC7https://flic.kr/p/MAzgyd
That is correct - no return line. Cap off the existing return line. Don't use the horn as a power supply - splicing into an accessory circuit is dodgy and it will get constant power with the ignition off. Use a relay that takes power from the ignition circuit to trigger it (from the ignition side into the coil) and run power with a fuse straight off the battery through the relay so it is guaranteed a constant 12+v to run the pump. There is a throttle cable bracket that mounts to the rocker cover (most guys refer to it as a 'boomerang' - best way to describe the shape of it)
Thank you geezer101. Im having difficulty posting pictures but I seem to be missing the "boomerang".I'm trying to locate the pressure line at the rear of the tank where I can splice in the fuel pump as well.
In image #2 there's a fuel filter (the white plastic cannister) which is connected to the main fuel line. Install the electric fuel pump in that location with the fuel filter between the tank and the pump. If you want to post pictures directly, click on 'Go Advanced' at the bottom of the posting box, scroll down to 'Manage Attachments'. From here you can start up an album by either downloading from your PC or from a URL. Insert image from the album into your post and you're good to go :thumbup:
Oh wow I feel like a dufus for missing that. I ran to an issue with Carbole pump, the outlet came apart, i want to say its not supposed to be like that.
Might be able to reinstall the O ring and tap it back in with a hammer. They're only press fit (as you can see) so it should be o.k. but visually check it for any signs of leaks.
I was able to push it back without much force. Even though its relatively low pressure I'm wary of it coming apart with vibrations. Ive read some have used the AC DELCO EP42S, not sure if its a viable alternative. Plus its all metal and not much more .
Ended Installing the Weber and the electric fuel pump. Runs so so, seems to be running rich per the spark plugs. How can I lean it out?Attachment 20945Attachment 20946
It might be jetted for the 2.6. Another member was having a similar issue with their 2.0 so I managed to find a guide for rejetting the 32/36 -
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44898
Awesome much appreciated! Bear in mind I have made no adjustments to anything yet, plopped on and started the truck. Starting to feel a bit overwhelmed.So I should open up the carb and check the main and idle jets? I assume they will have numbers to be identified. From what i've read timing should be adjusted as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Yes on both counts. The Weber will generate more vacuum than the Mikuni and has a tendency to be heavy on ignition advance. Dialling it in is trial and error and will also depend on fuel (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+)
Opened it up todayQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
60 primary idle
50 sec idle
140/140 prim/sec fuel
170/160 prim/sec air correctors
Emulsion tubes F50
So going by the recommended jetting table you need to swap the primary main for a 1.35 and the secondary main for a 1.30. Both the idle jets need to be 0.50 and the air correctors are primary 1.75 and secondary 1.45. Dropping the sizes on the mains should get it running leaner. Weird the primary air corrector is smaller than recommended but the secondary is HUGE in comparison (wonder what they were jetting it to run?)
Not sure actually, no wonder its puffing black smoke. I called Pierce Manifolds and they mentioned they worked for either 2.0/2.6's. I found this site for picking up the jets https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1583Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
(it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+) ??? Ive been running 87. Although I've only ran 2 or 3 tanks since my rebuild . Should I switch to 97?? I'm also wondering if the holley FPR I have on there causes a lack of fuel to accelerator pump because I have to pump the gas like 5 or 6 times before it wants to turn over. Also lmk if the different size jets make a difference? Seeing mine is a 2.0
Yes, jetting the Weber down for the G63B is important. It'll be drowning in fuel and more than likely make it that much harder to start. What fuel pump are you using? If you use a high volume, low pressure pump you shouldn't need a FPR on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdsm
Geezer is talking RON octane numbers - US octane is different - RON 97 is roughly 89 octane US.
I really need to open mine back up and get all the sizes wrote down for mine. I'm not sure what mine was even jetted for the po didn't say where he even got it from.
So far it has improved, it doesn't smoke like a coal train anymore. Need to pickup a timing light to dial it in. How far advanced/ retard should I go?
Noted penny man. I am using the manual fuel pump and a holley FPR. It stays in between 3 and 5. But fluctuate s in between when running. I just don't understand why I have to step on the gas 5-7 times before it will turn over. I took the accelerator apart and the diaphragm is not ripped or torn. And seems to be functioning regularly.?
Well ;made changes to the idle mixture and idle screw and now it diesels. Could it be the carbon build up from before? Out of the box settings did not cause dieseling.
Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdsm
Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing.Quote:
Originally Posted by risingphx25
I took it apart and that's exactly what happen to the diaphragm . Thanks geezer. Will be ordering a new one.
#31. Maybe I shouldn't stomp the crap Out the gas peddle and that might not happen.unless I had it set up for to much fuel and that did it before I made adjustments
The mechanical fuel pump + Holley FPR will cause you grief. It's inevitable. Change to an electric pump and it will go a long way to sorting your Weber install out. Been giving this a bit of thought and was wondering if installing a one way check valve in the fuel line post pump would be beneficial? I may need this if I go ahead with my loopy twin fuel tank set up...
I had a facet electric pump that had a built in check valve on the outlet of the pump years ago. The issue is, the check valve requires pressure to open it, so it will drop the pressure slightly, depending on the pressure rating of the check. A 1/2 lb check would be the one to use, if you can find one.
Thanks pennyman :thumbup: so...if I put the check valve before the pump, could it cause potential issues with fuel pick up? I want to make the twin tank delivery system as simple as possible - no solenoids, 2 separate pumps with check valves and a joiner to bridge them into a single line for the carb. Yes, there will be a manual control switch to flip between tanks (before anyone asks lol)
has to be after the pump - the pump does not have enough suction to open the check. The external electric pumps are gravity feed.
Webern are know for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
only for some of the webers they don't make one for mine 32/36 dgevQuote:
Originally Posted by yamahlr
.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.
I believe this is gonna be my next step.Quote:
Originally Posted by risingphx25
Any suggestions on where to order weber part? I've used allstate a couple time so far. I've seen LCE performance and I think carburetation.com just wondering if there are any more?
A list of genuine Weber retailers and suppliers - note the webercarbsdirect in the middle of it as being the crap copy seller to avoid.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27961
the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.
your 1000% right i found out the hard wayQuote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
This is my first post and I am having trouble. The truck just cranks but won't start after installing the weber carb.
Background:
Removed engine and trans to replace rear main seal. When I placed the motor back in I replace the alternator, water pump, radiator, spark plug wires, rotor and rotor cap.
Upgrades:
Pace setter headers
Weber carb
After hooking everything up and refilling all fluids, I turned the key and it was going to start. I waited for about 5 min and now it just cranks but wont start. Carb is getting fuel, tested the spark with a screwdriver, tested secondary for the coil. Vacuum system has been removed except the line for vac advance from the distributor. I am all out of ideas and could use some help. I attached pictures if that helps. This is my first time doing this so maybe there is something I am missing or not seeing.
Attachment 21440Attachment 21441Attachment 21442
If you didn't put a fuel pressure regulator in and you are using the OEM fuel pump it might be possible that you are flooding the motor. I think the OEM pump puts out around 8 psi and the Weber only wants 3. It may be overpowering the float and pouring fuel into the throttle body. Try holding the choke plate open with a screwdriver and depress the pedal some then try starting it again. If you have to keep your foot on the accelerator to keep it running chances are it's too rich and you will need a fuel pressure regulator.
You may have a bigger problem - is it a legit Weber carb? If it's a 'licensed copy' (read as 'bad knock-off) you will never get this thing to run right. Tips on installing a Weber carb - used a high volume, low pressure electric pump (don't try to regulate the mechanical factory pump as it will eventually kill it) and ensure it's a genuine unit. Plug the coolant port under the carb to eliminate possible coolant bypass issues as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by pacheco2189
pacheco2189,
Have you tried starting it after a shot of starting fluid down the carb throat? If it starts and runs for a moment, that reduces the chance the problem is electrical. There may be air in the fuel lines that the fuel pump can't overcome at cranking speed. A couple of starting fluid starts might be enough to get fuel flowing properly if that's the problem. I used to have a Weber and I had to use starting fluid to get the truck running if it sat for more than 3-4 days.
When I got it all together, I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and that is when and only when it wanted to start. I will try the fuel pressure idea and let you guys know the outcome. I also need to plug the coolant as well. Thank you
So I tried keeping the choke plate open and it still cranks but does not start. I know I still need to fix the psi problem but does that mean the floating is not the problem? Could it be electrical and if so.. what?
Carb cleaner is flammable but it still might be too wet. Get a starting fluid which is extremely combustible (ethyl-ether). Spray a shot of it into the carb and see if it starts and runs 2-3 seconds. If it still won’t start, remove the plugs. Note if the plugs are very wet or fouled. Dry, clean and gap each plug. Check that each plug is getting current and fires with a bright arc. If the plugs spark as expected, install the plugs and wires. Double check the plug wires at the cap to be sure the firing order is correct. If you didn’t remove or move the distributor earlier and everything checks out fine to this point, try another shot of starting fluid. Then crank it over with the throttle open slightly. It should start and run for a few seconds.
...and you may need to trial and error your distributor timing. The Weber is a vacuum beast and may be trying to over advance your timing. A DIY tip for one man ignition timing. Get a length of wire long enough to reach from your starter solenoid to your battery without risk of it getting caught up in any moving parts, crimp a female spade connector onto one end, unplug the starter wire and connect your bypass wire to the starter solenoid. There - you have a remote starter lead! With the ignition in the on position, all you need to do to start the engine is touch the other end of your wire to the positive terminal and it'll kick over. You'll be able to adjust the distributor until you get it to fire and to kill the engine, just pull the main plug lead from the coil.
So I tried the starter fluid and the timing. Still the same. I was doing some other testing and noticed the spark seems weak. Could that be a problem and if so, what could cause it? Also, I know the vacuum system is obsolete but from looking at wiring diagrams the gray control box on the drivers side has like 2 ignition wires that hook into it. Do I need to have that hooked up?
Weak spark could be due to poor ground or harness connections. Check the battery-to-frame-to-block and the head-to-firewall cables for continuity and clean their contact surfaces. Then check that the coil, resistor block and distributor wiring connections are clean and secure. The coil or ignition igniter in the distributor could be failing, but if it ran fine before the Weber install, I doubt these are causing the starting problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by pacheco2189
I‘m not sure about the ignition wires to the gray device box. My schematic shows only one, a black and white wire from the resistor block to a choke relay in the box. Like the vacuum lines with the Weber, the harness connections to the box no longer have a purpose. I don’t think it needs to be connected.
What is the power source for the Weber’s choke? Maybe it’s competing with and killing power to the starting ignition? Look at this thread which describes a loss of spark after a Weber install: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...spark-to-plugs . See if yours starts after disconnecting the choke wire like rranger found. If it starts, find another power source for the choke. It needs to be energized only when the key is in the "On" position.
Still nothing, all grounds are good, all connections are clean and secure. My weber choke is connected to a wire that use to plug into the old carb. I attached pictures of the wiring. I hooked everything back up the same exact way it came of but something seems off.
Attachment 21462Attachment 21463Attachment 21464
Hmmm. I'm running out of possibilities. Nothing in the pictures looked wrong. Just to be clear, when you tested for spark, was it at the plugs?
Put a accel or msd aftermarket coil pack on it . My g63b did the same with weak spark after I rebuilt it . Starts up everytime now .
Hey guys,
So i decided to tackle the weber project yesterday. I got the genuine weber 32/36 DGEV installed and the truck is starting and running fine. I have the idle and mixture screws tuned according the installation instructions. Fast idle screw is set to 2,000 RPM, idle speed screw is 1 1/2 turns in, and mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns out. The installation of the carb was straight forward, but there are a few things that I'm unsure about though so maybe someone here can shed some light for me. Mostly what to do with all my old vacuum lines. I have 1989 G63B manual with A/C.
1. I'd like to keep the vacuum lines in the engine bay for the emissions look, does anything need to be capped off not and just tucked away?
2. #8 in the installation instructions say to "Disconnect the evaporative emissions lines from the carb and air filter at the charcoal canister". does this mean to completely remove or cap off the lines coming off the charcoal canister labeled "to carb" and "to A?C"?
3. #9 in the instructions says "disconnect EGR valve and thermal switch next to it, they will disconnected and not be used". I disconnected the large vacuum line on the bottom oft he EGR as well as the small line going into the top, but which switch needs to be unplugged? There are three all in the same area just to the left of the EGR going into the thermostat housing.
4. #11 in the instructions says "Remove the two exhaust tubes from the exhaust manifold and use 1 1/4 plugs supplied to plug the holes". There was only one hole tp be plugged coming out of the manifold. It was the one that had the large metal pipe coming out of it going to the air control valve. I did remove the metal tube coming off the manifold and the entire secondary air valve assembly and used the supplied plug to the the hole in the manifold.
5. #12 in the instructions says "plug all open vacuum lines and thermal switch fittings on the intake manifold. make ABSOLUTELY SURE there are no connections to the EGR, the only vacuum used if the the power brakes". I'm unsure of exactly what I need to plug off here. Both lines going to the EGR have been disconnected and the factory vacuum line going from the brake booster to the intake manifold was untouched and still in place.
6. How does my electric choke connection look? Acceptable? it is a keyed power source, but just want to make sure with you guys its OK and if there isnt a better place to hook it up.
7. The vacuum line going from the carb to the distributor. There are 2 vacuum lines on my distributor: one coming off the side and one coming out of the bottom, which is the correct one to use and does the other need to be plugged or left open?
8. Fuel return line. Right now I have the return line coming off the fuel pump connected via a wire barb to the line going back to the tank. Is this correct?
*I have a Carbole electric fuel pump P/N 42S that I plan on installing in the next few days that will eliminate the stock mechanical pump. Once i install this electric fuel pump what will I do with the return line?
9. The trhottle return spring. is there a right and wrong way to install this is or is it just a make it work as best as possible kind of thing?
Thank you for any and all input!
So far everything looks fine.
If you've got a box on the driver's side inner fender with a bunch of vac lines running to it, that's a control box for the stock Mikuni carb, so you may as well pull that along with all vac lines connected to it, which will simplify things enormously.
That should leave a "tree" of open vac hose barbs screwed into the manifold, so you just need to cap those off, or IMO better yet run a short length of vac hose between pairs of those barbs and then just cap any odd man out (as caps tend to deteriorate more readily than hose does). Some ppl even unscrew that tree and plug the hole, but it's a weird 1/8"-28 BSPT thread (not the US-typical NPT) that you'd prolly need to special-order a plug for off eBay.
You don't have to cap any barbs attached to sensors/senders, as those aren't open to manifold vacuum.
Jeez, the vac lines give me anxiety just looking at them. The concept of diagnosing a vac leak though... definitely remove the feedback system for the Mikuni carb unless to need to BS your way through emissions inspections.
Here's how I did mine:Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwavedave
Attachment 25359
^looks like a perfect set up :thumbup:
I thought I'd put up a link to a YT video of a guy doing the 32/36 swap on his 2.6. The only errors he has made is not installing an electric HVLP fuel pump and instead using a fuel pressure regulator on the factory fuel pump and simply repurposing the fuel cut power from the original carb to run the electric choke which would've saved time and effort -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JH8...2%80%99sGarage
*the important info is on blocking the coolant port
Why cant you use the original fuel pump with a regulator?Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
it’s because 90% of the regulators on the market will slowly increase pressure above the 2 psi limit. And most of the people that say it is fine have never put a gauge on the carb side and run with it. If they did they would quickly see that the only way to actually limit the pressure is to use a regulator with a return line to the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by 88dodge
so the fuel pump you would run is 2psi, so would this pump be ideal?Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-426
It will need a higher flow rate than that to supply a Weber. 3.5 psi is closer to the ideal fuel pressure as well. The Mr Gasket 42S pump meets these requirements but it's kinda pricey - the Carbole 42S pump is identical excluding the stickers on the pump body and is literally half the price. Some people recommend the Carter P4070 but my experience was less than favourable (really noisy, expensive and the pump failed causing metal chaff to be coughed up into the fuel line)
I like the Carter P90091 myself -- smaller, quieter, and a simpler gerotor design completely different from the rotary-vane P4070 and generally a bit cheaper, too. Native pressure is exactly right for a Weber with smooth flow (unlike the pulsing delivery of most cheap solenoid-driven piston-action pumps), never had one fail in the 15+ years I've been using them [knock wood].
There you go 88dodge - you have options :thumbup:
*thanks SubG. And it looks like most vendors supply a metal fuel filter as part of the packages starting @ $70ish USD
Yes, as standard eqpt. Carter includes a pre-filter attached by semi-permanent crimp-on hose clamps, so I suspect it's only there to protect the pump from coarse chunks and likely just has a fine stainless-mesh screen inside, so I'd still add a post-pump filter with conventional cellulose media, prolly underhood near the carb where it's more accessible. I'm seeing the P90091 available from Amazon at $46.60 USD shipped.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Thanks guys, I do appreciate all the help you guys give me :grin:Quote:
Originally Posted by SubGothius
A stock pump puts out 7 to 10 psi depending on how old the springs are. The flow is fine from them. They just cause the carb to over fill all the time and it will run rich
Flow is fine, but pressure is excessive for a Weber, forcing the needle valve off its seat when the float should be holding it closed, and putting a regulator on it to reduce the pressure stresses the pump mechanism/membrane, eventually killing the pump. Electric is just the better, simpler, more reliable way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
Hey everyone,
I'm trying to find posts/threads that show how to do the electrical for wiring up an electric fuel pump for a weber carb. I've tried looking in this thread, but I didn't find much. Is there a good reference for how to do that?
RamRock
Look in the wiki. I tried to find my own posts and pics of what I did, but they seem to be gone. I barely remember what it looks like. :)
Check my posts in this thread for relay wiring, where/how to mount the pump, etc:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-carb-install
My father and I wired it up to the wires for the emission box that we took out, it works great, we also used another wire that went to the emissionQuote:
Originally Posted by RamRock50
box for the electric choke as well