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Thread: Weber 32/36

  1. #1

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    Weber 32/36

    Hey I was looking at the Weber 32/36's.... which one would I need for my truck? there is a few listed.... 32/36 DGEV, DGV, DGAV?? I do not know what the DGV or any of that means. I currently have a 2.0L SOHC, 5spd Man Trans, I think i have the electronic choke.... not sure.

  2. #2



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    They are all similar but not identical - dgv is the standard manual choke with the throttle attachment under the bowl, E stands for electric choke. dfav has an automatic choke and has the throttle linkage opposite the bowl and is more like the mikuni carb in operation. I have run both dgev and dfav on my 1980, neither is better than the other; it comes down to where you want the cable to be, front or rear of the carb.
    Pennyman1
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  3. #3

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    So the DFAV, has the throttle cable, closest to the firewall like the mikuni?

  4. #4



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    yes it does and rotates in the same direction - most like the mikuni
    Pennyman1
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  5. #5

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    Ok, got it. Do you need any kind of adapter to re-run the cable to the front, if all I can get my hands on is the DGEV? (it seems to be the most common to buy online)

  6. #6

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    I swear Weber had a 36/36 progressive that would fit on our trucks..now I can't find it. If you can, and want a bit more "oomph' without the gas-sucking of the 38/38 Synchro...buy one.

    I know with both Redline and Weber Carbs Direct, if you specify your make/model, you will usually get the appropriate adapters as well as mounting plates (conversion kit).

  7. #7

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    i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?

  8. #8

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    what kind of electric fuel pump or fuel regulator would you need to run a weber?? been lookin up regulators and found some 1-6 psi ones how much psi do i need to run?

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    I believe its 3-4 psi if I'm not mistaken
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  10. #10



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    I run a holley that puts out 5-7 psi without a regulator - since its back by the tank, it doesn't overpressure the needle and seat like the mechanical pump off the head does. An oil pressure safety switch should also be used to prevent the pump from running when the motor loses oil pressure.
    Pennyman1
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  11. #11

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    is it possible to just run a regulator?

  12. #12



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    If you run a regulator between the pump and carb, the back pressure will blow the pump in short order; I know this from experience. Use an electric pump mounted back by the tank after the fuel filter
    Pennyman1
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  13. #13

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    Just did a DGEV on my 2.6 5-speed... cant believe i waited so long... Its 99% better now than the "rebuilt" OEM pile... Now if i can just fix my "stuck" brakelights !

  14. #14



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    Its the brakelight switch at the top of the pedal - just unscrews and unplugs. About $20 - its used on many different cars and trucks of the era. Don't bother getting a used one; it is just as old and ready to fail.
    Pennyman1
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  15. #15

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    interesting that you mentioned that about the fuel pump PennyMan. I installed a new mech. pump with holly regulator in february a few weeks ago the truck felt sluggish i checked the pressure and was only making 1 psi couldnt imagine a new fuel pump failing in a few months I guess now I know why! where did you mount your electric pump?

  16. #16



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    at the tank after the filter - I made a plate that spanned the bed mounts and mounted the pump and filter to it. Run 12 ga wire to the pump to prevent voltage drop due to the long run.
    Pennyman1
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  17. #17

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    what brand/model of pump are you using? i have the Weber (solex) pos now i was looking and apparently Weber Carbs Direct isnt even selling the solex carbs now. What actually fails in the mech. fuel pump due to the regulator? what kind hp numbers are possible with the 2.0 with minor mods ...carb..header..exhaust...etc

  18. #18



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    Its a Holley - 70gph I think. Solex is out of the carb business, thats why they don't sell them any more. The diaphram collaspes in the pump and won't move gas. The 2.0 is limited by a lack of parts - headers currently are non- existant until blindeyed gets the one I sold him and has it reproduced; carb with a 32/36 will improve power and economy and can be adjusted and rejetted for future mods. A custom bent 2" exhaust will also help with the flow but not be too big to hurt low end torque. I can't give you numbers yet as my 86 project truck is still stock; it won't be once I have time to work on it.
    Pennyman1
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  19. #19

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    got my "GENUINE" Weber (not pos solex) in the mail today cant wait to install it!

  20. #20



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    take some pictures of the install so others can see how easy it is to do.
    Pennyman1
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  21. #21

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    I called up Weber, and in talking to the rep, and they looked up my truck and told me there were 2 carbs for it. 1 is the 32-36, and the other is the K610-38. Now the rep said that the K610-38 is a better carb. What are people's thoughts on it? I need to order a carb asap.

  22. #22



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    Did you tell them the engine was stock, or did you pump it up by adding a cam or pistons? Don't get to big of a carb. Altitude comes into play also.
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  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by OCD Boss View Post
    I called up Weber, and in talking to the rep, and they looked up my truck and told me there were 2 carbs for it. 1 is the 32-36, and the other is the K610-38. Now the rep said that the K610-38 is a better carb. What are people's thoughts on it? I need to order a carb asap.
    I just installed a Weber 32/36 on my 80 d50 and i love it!

  24. #24



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    The k610-38 is the 38 dgas 2 bbl synchronous carb - its only for the 2.6 with a cam, header and a larger exhaust. The carb will put too much fuel into a stock motor no matter how lean you jet it, and cause flat spots and other issues. The 32/36 is more than enouugh for all but the highly modded motors.
    Pennyman1
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  25. #25



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    Please let us know what you put on. Take some pictures of the install, along with a description of the problems and how they were solved. Thanks.
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