I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.
Printable View
I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.
Take a look at this kit - its an old linkage adaptor set on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-carbur...9ea959&vxp=mtr or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Webe...5d2357&vxp=mtr
I am surprised redline didn't have a better answer for this problem. Sometimes creating your own piece to fit the carb for the kick down could work or modify the old carb's piece to fit the weber if it's available. Seems frustrating when the manufacturer is sort of brushing you off. Keep us posted.
The linkage I made works perfectly. The pics are on page 4 of this thread. All you need is a bit of 12 gauge mild steel and a few tools. I made the tricky piece out of cereal box cardboard first using the Weber linkage to hold it against to figure out where to bend it.Then I used the Mikuni linkage as a reference for the throttle shaft hole and cable hole positions. This is necessary to keep the relationship between the accelerator and the shift cable the same. If the correct distance between these holes is not maintained the tranny will not shift or kick down properly. I made a few cardboard pieces before getting one that I liked. From start to finish I think it took me about 4 hours. I had to keep walking back and forth from the truck to the vise when filing out the hole for the throttle shaft.
Not everyone has your skills or the tools to do what you did, it is a fine piece of work. I understand that it is also not something you can do and make a lot of money at it. We just need someone with a 3d printer to scan it and then it could be printed out whenever one is needed. Not likely in this economy though...
I think that anyone who can do this carb swap would understand the principle. You are probably right in that not everyone would have the tools to make those two pieces. Perhaps, if one were to take a cardboard model of the pieces to a high school metalworking shop, someone there would be willing to help. I would think they are always looking for something new and challenging to do. The cost would probably be minimal as well.
Do you still have the cardboard template and indications where to bend the metal?
I believe it is in my toolbox at work. I could trace it, dimension it, scan it, and post it here if you think it will help.
that would be great if you could do that - it will help anyone doing a weber on an auto tranny truck.
Here is the tricky piece.
Attachment 13232
For the straight piece, I just measured from the cable hole to the hole in tricky piece, and added about 1/2". So long as it's not too short there is lots of adjustment in the adjuster on the manifold. There is on my '88 that is. I used a #10 machine screw with jam nuts to join the two pieces.
Nice work Andy, I may make a request for a kick down on my Tbird, lol. Glad to see it posted here, definitely should help someone. Keep it in your Gallery for quick locating.
I do like the pictures for the DIY kickdown linkage... I personally have no issues building one. I see his carb has the throttle fitting on the firewall side of the carb... Mine is on the radiator side of the carb. I think ill need to fab some sort of bell crank. Just not sure how much movement is needed as I never had the factory set up in place.
Sounds like you have the carb made for the manual tranny. Being as the cable is connected to the throttle shaft you will need to be able to pull the cable from any throttle position to cause the tranny to kick down at any speed. The tension setting at zero throttle determines when the tranny will shift under normal acceleration. Too tight and the tranny shifts gears at higher speeds and vise versa.
Here's a page from my Haynes manual.
Attachment 13254
I just got a 32/36 DFEV carb kit #K-614 used and I need to find the installation instructions for it. Also need to find a fuel pump block-off plate.
Mr. Gasket 1516 works for a fuel pump block off plate drilling out the holes slightly.
This might help you...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
As for a block off plate,if you want to make your own, you can use the plastic spacer for the fuel pump as a template, and cut a piece of metal the same shape with the same holes. I used 304 stainless steel about 1/8" thick.
I made a block-off plate for the fuel pump. It was not to hard. Used the plastic spacer as Andy 2 said and done.
Thanks for the guide. It was what I was looking for to make sure that I did not miss anything. I am going to have to make a mod to hookup the kick down cable for my automatic transmission also, wish me luck.
Ram50Man wrote..."i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?"
I found 2 Weber conversion kits that come with 32/36 carbs for our trucks. The K614 carb is a DFEV and its throttle rotates clockwise. It is most like the Mikuni when mounted with the throttle control toward the firewall. It is said to be for the auto trans trucks and the throttle cable lines up above the kickdown cable. There is, however, no linkage piece to connect the kickdown cable which seems silly. I know this kit will work on 2nd gen. trucks with manual trans as well with no linkage issues.
The K610 carb is somewhat the reverse of the K614. It is a DGEV carb and its throttle rotates counter clockwise. If this carb was mounted with the throttle toward the firewall, the throttle cable would have to pull away from the engine, and the choke would be on the engine side of the carb. It mounts with the cable control toward the front of the truck. This kit does not come with the Mikuni style cable attachment piece (the 1/4 circle with the hole for the cable end). I got this one for the 4x4 which is a 5 speed and had to trim and weld my Mikuni cable attachment to the Webers. Both carbs are 32/36, and both have electric choke, but they are not the same carb. If you don't want to have issues with the cable attachment, I would try and get the right Weber.
For those people who were told an auto kickdown bracket doesn't exist - look above the exhaust plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Maz...item5d4d4ceba5 . The kit is from Redline to boot!
That kit comes with a carb too!Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
But the adaptor for the kickdown does exist as a weber part.
I'd like to know if anyone has gotten that kickdown linkage to work without needing extra parts.
Ok so i recently installed a weber on my truck i have two questions... i have two large bolts idk what they are for and my next question its running too rich ive adjusted the carb to run when i first turn on my truck but it makes it run rich i believe the idle should be higher while warming up but is not how do i fix this and how do i get my maintenance required light to turn off?
My kits came with two large "bolts" also. I believe they are plugs for the exhaust manifold where the reed valve pipe threads in. Those Weber kits come with parts for both 2.6L and 2.0L engines. If you take the reed valve off you will need one of them to screw back into the manifold.
If you look at the instructions that came with the kit, you will see a section called Carburetor Adjustments on page 5. If you don't have them any more look here...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
I didn't know there was a maintenance light on these carbureted trucks. lol . Its probably for the emissions system, EGR and O2 sensor service. You won't be using those now that you have installed the Weber. I would take the instrument panel out and remove the light bulb so you never have to see it again.
ok but i ended up breaking that pipe off it was very brittle but i cant unscrew the part that went into the exaust maanifold its like the basterd is welded in there idk how to get the fucker out i spent an hour and a half justtrying to get it off and it wont budge any tips???
and i cant find the fast idle skrew where is it??? ive found the idle mix and idle speed but not the fast idle
Get a 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar from HF, a socket that fits the nut, an extension for the socket, and a 3-4" pipe that slides over the breaker bar, then soak the nut with penetrating oil and work the nut back and forth until it comes loose. Or heat the manifold around the nut with a torch until it is red hot, and use the breaker bar and socket to spin it out
Fast idle screw on a weber is behind the choke pod, almost touching it. come from the back of the carb between firewall and carb and towards the top of the back of the choke.
To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.
anybody got any pics of there carb so i can see where exactly this fast idle adjustment is???
If you go to page 4 of this thread you can see pics posted of my Weber. They're about halfway down the page. If you look at the top right pic you see the Weber's white choke spring assembly. The fast idle screw is behind it. You have to get your head right down in there to see it. You also have to be careful adjusting it as it is easy to cause the choke to kick down. Tighten the screw to speed up the fast idle
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
is the screw in the center of the pic right behind the choke adjustment the fast idle adjustment?Attachment 13707
Yes it is.
alright sweet my truck is now running perfect no more deiseling not running rich startes immediatly when cold now all i have left to do is get that friggin bolt out and plug it up and my work will be done im prolly just gonna ask my neighbor to do it lol thanks for your help guys
thats what we are here for...
Awesome read. Im ordering a Weber 32/36 and a header in the next couple weks for my 80 D50 2.6. Cant wait to get this solex carb and exhaust manifold off this engine LOL.
Just finished my install yesterday, and the difference is amazing! That big bolt from the egr tube was the hardest part of the process. I soaked it with kroil penetrating oil for about 2 hours while I was doing other work, heated it with a welding torch, oiled it again, then used a 30mm axle socket with a 24"breaker bar and a 3' cheater bar! Also sprayed the kroil inside the tube to get some on the inside as well. When it finally broke free I was so happy!
The truck was running so crappy for so long it belched out a ton of carbon and soot, and settled into a nice idle! New life in this truck, so now it's time to detail it out, and probably going to sell it. It's been a good little truck, but no room for it.
I've enjoyed this thread, it helped a lot, and I appreciate the help!
Oldsarge
It's really amazing how much the engine was held back by the OEM carb, huh? Like it was breathing through a straw. The Weber is jetted pretty well out the box but you can fine tune it and get it running even better with a Redline Weber 32/36 jet kit. There's an outfit in Washington that sells them on eBay.
Found it! The kickdown bracket I swore I had seen before. Scroll down part #45136.029 Throttle valve control lever (CU) 32/36 DGV DGEV DGAV
Pair that with one of the cable brackets. Would that work or is this a dead end?
http://www.carburetion.com/sitesearc...%20Carburetors
so that is what that is for - I think I have 1 or 2 of those laying around somewhere...
I think my conversion kit came with one as well. I can't wrap my head around how it would work though. When someone figures it out I'd like to see a pic.
I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not, but I believe my questions seem to fit best within this thread. I've only posted a few times on this forum, so if this assumption is false someone point it out.
Some background: I have a '85 Dodge Ram 50 4wd pickup, manual tran with the 2.6l engine. Some, but not all, of the emissions equipment had been ripped out or disconnected when I bought it. It gave terrible gas mileage, ran so rich the cab reeked of gas when it was started and it idled very poorly both cold and hot. After reading up on this and other forums, I decided to get a progressive Weber 32/36 (not a knockoff). After speaking with the order guy on the phone he confirmed that a K610 was the correct kit to order.
Since the throttle plate opens counterclockwise, instead of clockwise (the mikuni) and is on the right side of the carb instead of the left (the mikuni) with the gas port on the front also on the right side of the carb instead of the left, I am thinking this is NOT the right kit for this pickup.
Is there a Weber kit that would install easier onto my truck than the K610? The features I am most interested in is a throttle plate which opens the throttle in a CLOCKWISE direction instead of counterclockwise and gas inlet tube on the left instead of the right.
NOTE: I am assuming there actually IS a 32/35 Weber carb kit which has these features. However if this kit is the closest match for my truck I will stop whining and get to the necessary mods. :-)
I have already dry fitted (no loctite or grease) this kit to my manifold and it fits fine except for the things I have mentioned.
Thanks
Matthew
If your throttle cable has the cylindrical end you might want to look at the k614.
I think that k610 carb is supposed to mount with the linkage at the front. That will make the throttle cable pull from the right side. Here are the reassembly instructions for the k610. Note line #17.
Universal Reassembly W/ REDLINE WEBER CARBURETOR
15. Remove rag from manifold opening. Install the carburetor adaptor as follows; (Use Loctite on all bolts and
studs during installation of adaptor.)
a. Select the gasket that matches the intake manifold carburetor-mounting surface and coat it with
grease or a suitable gasket sealer (Silicone or RTV is NOT suitable). Install the universal adaptor
noting the position of the carburetor for the cable operation. Torque nuts to 12 ft. lbs.
b. Install the 8mm studs with the kit into the top adaptor half. Hand tighten these studs.
c. Set the carburetor base gasket over the studs on the adaptor. Install the Weber carburetor onto the
adaptor and gasket. Install the throttle cable bracket on the two mounting studs opposite the choke
housing. Install washers and nuts supplied. Torque the carburetor nuts to 12 ft. lbs.
d. Cycle the linkage by hand to check for sticking or binding. Remember over tightening causes
binding. Correct any linkage problems now before proceeding. NOTE: the automatic choke will
be set in the cold start position and unless the choke plate is held open the throttle will not return to
the fully closed position.
16. Install the three position throttle lever with the holes towards the top of the carburetor following the directions
in the bench assembly instructions.
17. Install the carburetor to the adaptor with the linkage toward the front of the vehicle and tighten to 12 ft lbs.
18. Use a "keyed" 12 volt source to connect to the choke and the idle cutoff valve.
19. Connect the throttle cable bracket to the valve cover and connect the throttle cable to the linkage. Check for
full throttle position and free throttle movement. If there is any throttle bind correct the problem before
proceeding.
20. Connect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor with the supplied hose.
21. Connect the vacuum advance port to the distributor with the supplied hose.
sounds like you got the dgev carb - if you want it to work like the original, then you want a dfev carb k614. I have been running a dgev carb on Geronimo for over 30 years with the linkage in the front of the carb - the boomerang bracket is what relocates the cable to work with the carb.
ok, I did not know what that flat L shaped bracket was for--I will do some more research. thanks.
Matthew
Go to my gallery pics - #16 shows the carb installed with boomerang
Ok, Looking at #16--I don't see the boomerang plate--the throttle cable seems to be sitting on top of the valve cover before it attaches to the throttle assembly on the carb.
Btw, I noticed that last february, you and some other users were answering the questions posed by another user who was asking just about exactly the same questions I am asking now in this thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uestions/page2.
It seems he ended up ordering the 90 degree bracket which is displayed in the instructions but does not come in kit. I may do the same unless I can figure out how to make the boomerang bracket work--doesn't it require another part which he also didn't receive in the kit? I don't seem to have that part either, just the boomerang.
I believe I found a picture that illustrates what you are saying Pennyman1--I think it is from the old mightyram50 site:
Attachment 15082
Yep that's what I was talking about - the angle of the pic doesn't show it as well as this one does.
I got the carb installed with the throttle and choke working well. The Boomerang plate works just fine although it does stretch the throttle cable casing a bit.
I believe I just need to find the right hoses to hook up to the one fuel inlet on the back of the carb nearest the firewall to a inlet on the fuel pump.
There are two other connections on the fuel pump and I assume one must go back to the fuel tank, I don't know what the 3rd connection would be to.
There are plenty of pics of that model fuel pump on the web but none which show the hose connections!
If anyone has a link to such a pic, I would love to see it. Once I get everything up and running properly I will post pics of the connections.
If you check the Wiki tab at the top of this page then click on fuel management there is a diagram of a fuel pump with the connections labelled.
Thanks Andy--I got it running last night. MUCH smoother idle, even when cold! Very happy with results. I will take more pics and post them.
Finished installing my weber 32/36 last night. Set all Idle screws to baseline settings per Redline paperwork and fired it up. It started immediately but started ramping up the RPMs until it was almost max and I killed it. Checked throttle linkage, reset baseline screws, and fired up again and same thing shot straight up to max RPM. Any Ideas?
I would back the idle speed screw right off and then check the throttle cable to be sure it is allowing the throttle to close all the way. If the idle speed screw is set up without the throttle plates being completely closed to start with, the motor will rev too high as the choke opens. I would also check the fast idle screw adjustment.
Thanks Andy 2, I will adjust it out and update later
does your have the elec choke?
is it stuck?
if you have the elec choke try unhooking the wire and see if that makes a difference.
if you can take a few pics of your install maybe someone will see whats (if any thing) is out of place.
Thanks for the input jamesw. I removed the throttle linkage completely and brought the fast idle screw out a bit. Started it back up and it seemed to be idling a smidge lower but it wasn't until I hit the throttle bracket that it settled down to a low/soft idle. Sounded smooth as butter and everything seems to be running fine, no leaks, etc. I let it run at idle for about 20min and everything stayed steady. Been reading up on this Fast Idle setting that happens when you hit the gas prior to cranking and it opens the flow so I can warm up faster. I think that's what happen the first time or two because I was used to giving it gas to start with the mikuni. Without pushing the gas it starts and idles fine. The throttle cable may have also been pulling on it to much so I need to adjust that out as well.
Edit: Pics of the whole install in my galleries if anyone gets curious.
glad to hear you got it figured out :thumbup: i went out this morning fired mine up and suddenly i was hearing a high pitch whistle i,m like what the heck?
so i started doing the listen close thing pressing here pressing there and all of a sudden i found it grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr my carb was lose as a goose the set screws that hold the plate to the intake and backed off some how so after taking everything off and finding the screws lose i may have made a big boo boo hope not but i put some lock tight on the set screws and torched them down as for the second adapter plate i left them alone just tighten them down good and snug .
got the carb back on adjust the idle and the little ole girl is back up and going good again.
i was starting to think that after reading your post with your problems that maybe it migrated over to mine lmao
another thing while i was putting the carb back on was something i noticed the little rod that comes from the choke to the throttle was real close and hanging when ever you really got on the gas .
i took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent it over so that it has some clearance.
also notice mt fancy kick down link cable lol
hay it works great
Attachment 16403
Did you use the existing mechanical pump off the head?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79D50fan
What is the difference between the REDLINE and the Weber Direct carbs? I have one of the older ones, a Weber ... any problems with these on a 1980 2.6ltr?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acuta73
If the little rubber bumper is missing replace it otherwise the plunger will slip into the hole and the brake light then stays on all the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
I'm still going through all the posts but just pulled my intake/carb off (87 2.0 auto)... dear lord that's a mess!!! researching all the info for the swap lol
The Redline is a genuine Spanish made Weber carb - Weber Carbs Direct sells a chinese version that has an internal fuel metering system that can't be altered due to poor design and quality castings/machining. They are impossible to tune and cause the rich/lean fuel problems that can be tuned out of a genuine Weber. This has been extensively covered here on MightyRam due to the large number of people who have been burned by the copycat carbs sold by WCD - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerrigan
Would a Weber made 10 years ago be the "good one" or the junk?
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
If the body and diaphragm covers etc have the 'Weber' logo and name cast into the metal then you can be assured it'll be the genuine deal. The copies have stickers and dye printing on them.
Has the white choke housing instead of the black, the white is supposed to only be on the good ones.
I'll look for stickers and dye-printing to be sure.
Just need block off plates now ... and it looks like those are not common.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I am not starting a new thread because I feel like the answers to this are relevant to the topic. I did not find my answer in the thread however(hope I didnt miss it)
So i installed the 32/36. I used the fender mounted original fuel filter with the 3 ports. I ran one to return and one to the carb. Started it up and it ran fine then i noticed a few drops of fuel coming from the stock pump but I had to pick up a dresser so i went anyways.
I had read prior to getting the weber (after i sent the fake back to webercarbsdirect) that you have to install an electric pump and regulator.
My questions are,
1. what is the stock fuel pump pressure supposed to be?
2. Do you have to install electric + regulator?
3. If i replace with manual pump will it mess up the carb over time?
I drove the truck with the slow drip about 20 miles round trip without issue. I realize I need to replace the leaking pump, but as I asked above, is it necessary to run an electric and regulator?
Thanks for your time.
The Weber requires a lower fuel pressure than the Mikuni to operate. High fuel pressure will cause flooding and affect how the truck runs. If I recall correctly the mechanical pump runs 6-9 psi of fuel pressure and the max needed for the Weber is 3-5 psi. The fender mounted "fuel filter" is a recirculation cannister - you should notice an inline fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump. Now the recirculation cannister may very well be enough to drop fuel supply to the carb to overcome the potential high pressure issue. If it's running right and the only problem you have is a leaking mechanical pump (which is a bad problem to start off with) I'd have a tendency to think you may not need to go electric with a regulator.
*side note - if your recirculation cannister is a metal one, be warned. They have the potential to rust out. There are plastic cased units but I think it's going to be a scrounge through a JY to find one...
I thought it was an odd filter and it is in fact metal. I think the pump was leaking when I bought it since the area under it is free of oil =). It may just be leaking more now due to more back pressure with the weber.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I will probably go ahead and just get the electric pump and regulator. The truck will be used infrequently so I wanted to do as little as possible to make it run. paid 500 for it and the weber/tabs has already doubled that.
Thanks for the info.
I've been running a Weber with the mechanical pump for 2 years without issue. I made sure to run the third port on the pump to the to the fuel return line and I use a Mr. Gasket pressure regulator set at 2 1/2 lbs.
I'm going to install a 2-3 psi electric pump by the tank and remove the mechanical one.
I have run Geronimo with an electric pump back by the tank for 32 years. I am running a holley 5 PSI pump with no reg, with 1 filter before the pump and one before the carb and have no issues. He is also an 1980 D-50 sport with 2.6 and a 5 spd manual. When getting a pump the higher the flow rate the better - weber carbs are more flow rate than pressure sensitive to a point.
The electric one I installed gauges 6.4 psi at the carb inlet which I was told is too high for the Weber I have (Made in Spain)? Supposed to be 2-3 psi pump at the carb... no? Now I don't know ... lol!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
what pump did you use?
I have an 85 power ram with the 2.6, i went ahead and got a 32/36 weber with the electric choke. installed it all last night and purrs like a kitten but as soon as i put it in gear and go to move it wants to stall and not move at all. If anyone has any idea what the problem is your help will be greatly appreciated. I better mention I installed an electric fuel pump also. Airtex e8004. I'm not using a regulator because the pump itself is only rated for 6 psi max pressure and I've heard the webers only need 3.5 to 4psi to operate properly.
I read 3psi max or they flood out .. like that. Using a 3 psi electric pump on my install back by the pump.
If your fuel pressure is too high you'll over power the float and flood the motor. When you give it gas to drive, the accelerator pump fires a shot of gas into the throttle body to compensate for the rush of air that gets drawn in when the throttle plates open. If it didn't your motor would stall from too lean a mixture. If your running rich because your fuel pressure is too high, the shot of gas from the accelerator pump may be enough to flood it.
You could try putting a tee in the fuel line and connecting the fuel return to it. That will take some of the fuel and return it to tank and lower the pressure at the carb.
Thanks Andy 2. It was putting 6psi to the carb so I put a regulator between and dialled it down to 4 psi. Going to try 3psi tomorrow Kerrigan because it's still rich. Thanks again for the help and input
Sorry but it looks like the Airtex E8004 isn't suitable for the Weber. You need a fuel pump that can handle more than 35 gph but only 3.5 PSI max pressure (the Airtex E8004 specs state 6PSI and 35 gph). Keep in mind that the Weber needs a bit more of an aggressive ignition tune to make the most of it - a good high output ignition coil and adjusting the timing to not only ensure you get a good, clean burn but to also get the engine to punch more from mid range rpm upwards. Something like this should be more suitable http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-42S-Univ...JY2VFc&vxp=mtr
Some sites recommend a pump like a Carter rotary pump with an output of 60-70 gph but I think that would be more for competition/racing as the carb would be always drawing a high CFM rate.
I use a Carter 4070 with a pressure regulator and have no issues other than the pump is a bit loud.
I have the fuel regulated to 3.5psi and a stock ignition and it's running okay.. just a little rich. What kind of ignition parts is everyone going with? I'll up grade the pump when I have a little extra cash and probably do ignition the same time.
1988 dodge ram sport 2.6l with manual pump thinking about putting in a elec pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Low-...pYcE-F&vxp=mtr
just to see what difference it might make.
does it have to be mounted back by the tank on the frame or could i just block off the manual fuel pump lines and mount the elec fuel pump somewhere under the hood.
what difference will it make?
and what do i do with the return line coming off the manual pump?
do i just cap it off?
You can just disconnect the lines and leave it where it is. Only time a mechanical pump can cause you grief is when the diaphragm in it splits and dumps fuel or it leaks oil (or it is tired and isn't supplying a constant/adequate amount of fuel). You will need a fuel recirculation cannister if you use an electric pump on the Mikuni carb as it has an external accelerator enrichment pump (the cannister has a main fuel in, one out and another line for the accelerator pump). The other connection on the accel pump housing connects to the tank return line. As for the coil replace it with a new coil (either a direct OEM or a transformer type coil with the same OHM rating) and as long as the rest of your ignition components are good all you'll need to do is retune the engine. I would install the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it won't struggle to prime from empty and will be quieter (add a filter before the pump as well to protect it from junk going through it and wearing it out)
*looked at the ebay listing above, my opinion is you can buy better quality and quieter pumps for a few bucks more (a hint - look at the Mr Gasket pumps and then compare them to the Carbole brand. Notice anything?)
ok thanks geezer i forgot to mention that i,m running a weber carb as for the cheap pump i was just eye balling the cheapest ones i will go with a better brand now that i have a direction to go thanks againQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291917097087...MakeTrack=true
When I finally get around to rekitting my 34DATA Weber and swapping the head + modded manifold I'll be using one of those Carbole 42S pumps. I have a Carter 4070 pump in my stockpile but it was noisy as all get out and the 42S pump is nice and compact (plus it's the same as a Mr Gasket pump without the price tag).
If your running rich on your weber, I'm sure you know to re-jet them to lean/richen then out to your specs or elevation. The pump shouldn't really matter if it is regulated properly to the carb which looks like you have. FYI
Not sure if that was mentioned. I thought I would bring it up just in case. :)
That's the one I got for Mitzi ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I was told the cleanest installation on the stock motor is to remove ALL the pollution control crap, leaving just the valve cover breather (unless you want a free-breathing external filter on it), hook up the fuel pump (3 psi type) without fuel tank return or vapor canister crap, and the vacuum advance line. Everything else can be scrapped, so the expert said.
And you're going to want to grab one of these ... few remaining. Fuel pump block off plate.
Delphi Fuel Pump Block-Off Plate FA0007
That will depend on what Weber carb you're using. If it has a return line and a fuel bowl breather you should retain the connections into the fuel tank. I have actually cut the EGR gallery completely off the manifold I have modified for the 34DATA I will be installing and had the EGR port through the head sealed off. The 4G63 has a differently designed fuel pump to the 4G54 so I am probably going to make my own block off plate to delete it. The anti pollution stuff on these engines makes them dirtier to run than what they are capable of without it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerrigan
Geronimo ran clean without any of the pollution crap and with no cat. But when I had the exhaust done the last time, I had to put one on or my exhaust guy wouldn't do it. He actually runs better with a little back pressure - the exhaust without it was too good and killed off low end torque.
Installing the Weber made in Spain for the manual tranny with throttle linkage on the correct side, with electric choke. On a 1980 D-50. So ... the issue now is install it stripping out ALL DEQ crap, .... or having to leave some of it ... like vapor cannister, etc.
The instruction manual appears to say "dump it all" and just hook up vacuum line, valve cover breather hose, and fuel in line from a 3.0psi pump.
So which is the correct way??
If the carb you have installed doesn't have a fuel bowl vent outlet/connection to the vapour cannister or a fuel return line, remove the cannister and cap the lines off (all deleted vacuum lines included). There isn't a 'correct' way to do the install, just the way that best suits your end goal.
Pics for Weber thread. : these are to help anyone with there install.
Will be adding more .
That setup looks different from what I'll end up with ... my throttle cable hooks right up like stock.
There are a number of throttle configurations with Weber carbs. They have clockwise, counter clockwise, opposing side and opposing end throttle linkages. We have a write up on model identification codes and what they mean.
Couldn't find the link to the list ... is it on this site?
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...fication+codesQuote:
Originally Posted by Kerrigan
I'm getting ready to do the same on my 1980 2.6 ltr D-50. Have a 3psi electric pump by the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by roro13
Any helpful hints about the install, especially what you did with all the pollution control stuff - vapor tank, ERG valve, etc.
Thanks!