You dont need a compressor for the lowering leafs theyre just sold on a website that mostly sells air ride equipment. They are a mono leaf setup im running them on my max and they ride a little bit squishy to me but its expected being mono. No notch is needed but you will have to trim the bump stops to have rear suspension travel.
I'm not really interested in lowering the truck, at least not right now. I do appreciate bringing them up as an option though. I wasn't thinking about it.
Well burned the first tank of fuel, checked the mileage, burned 10.62 gallons in 215 miles, so 20.24mpg. Originally rated at 26mpg highway. I haven't been hausing it around or anything, hell I drive 55mph to work and back. So I agree it's in need of a smaller jet in the carb.
Also about the coolant temp. I let it keep running while I refueled this morning and noticed the coolant temp had moved a good bit closer to where I'd expect it to be and dropped as soon as I started moving again. This makes me think the thermostat is either one of those dumb low temp units, or stuck open. And since the heater gets little more than warm, I'm thinking that re-affirms the suspicion. I'll be buying a 192* unit and gaskets on the way home.
Everyone skipped over the wires on the carb. Yes, it is an electric choke. Same/similar function as the electric choke on the Weber carbs. Much simpler to adjust and more reliable than the wax pellet/water choke the stock Mikuni utilised.
I know you're in there!!
HAH! I got you you stupid out of spec garbage!
Obliciatory Made in U.S.A. picture.
This is more like it.
But I can't put it back with these dirty bolts.
Handy again, it is!
That's more like it!
When in doubt... 14 ft/lb.
That's more like it!
I think the brake cables should be here tomorrow. I also don't think the electric fan conversion works, temp needle started to move just right of center so I shut it down since the fan hadn't come on yet. I'll jump some power straight to it's leads and see if the fan even works tomorrow.
Wish this forum had an edit post option... that one huge pic wasn't... ah never mind.
Looks terrific, Ripper !
For a $10 or so donation to the forum...to keep us online (we're self-supporting )...you will get the edit function, and a few other perks. AND you get a MightyRam50 sticker for your back window
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
You will also find the truck runs better with the 195 thermostat. When Geronimo was new, he came with a 180 degree stat, I changed it out with a 192 degree "canadian" stat - been there ever since. That was 1981...
$10 Donated!
The forum thanks you. You'll really appreciate that edit function, and you have the satisfaction of knowing you've contributed to the life of the forum.Originally Posted by RipperXX
Gettin' to be about time for me to dig into my pocket, again...it's been a while.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
first i,m hearing of a sticker that would be nice to have.Looks terrific, Ripper !
For a $10 or so donation to the forum...to keep us online (we're self-supporting )...you will get the edit function, and a few other perks. AND you get a MightyRam50 sticker for your back window
You mean like this?
Anyone know of a list of vehicles that have the DOHC cylinder head? I know some Hyundai 1.6L engines did...but no clue which ones. I would like a list to see if I can find one in a junkyard for cheap.
$7 fix for the throttle return spring, previous owner had a spring going from the linkage to a hard brake line on the firewall... that was to long... so ignoring the lack of it being attached to a bracket or bolt or anything, it was just long enough that when you removed your foot from the accelerator (yeah I know, no one calls it that anymore) it wouldn't (because it couldn't) return the throttle to 0% / completely closed... explains the high idle. Soon as I removed that, spent a few dollars on a assortment pack of springs from the parts store, I grabbed one about the right length, curled the ends in just enough that it pulled on the spring a little when attached to a bracket holding the throttle cable and the linkage on the carb.... and wala.... Man the previous owner was cheap...
...or lazy, or stupid. As the saying goes "doesn't matter how much duct tape you use, you can't fix stupid..." And your cheap + right way fix solved a bunch of running problems
wheres mine? lol
well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head
IMG_20180316_133708291.jpgIMG_20180316_134945368_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_135656487_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_141616171_HDR.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Ste...53.m2749.l2649
in case you want the link to the studs
and the struts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-636...53.m2749.l2649
once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.
Is that how you're planning to permanently attach them?well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head
IMG_20180316_133708291.jpgIMG_20180316_134945368_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_135656487_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_141616171_HDR.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Ste...53.m2749.l2649
in case you want the link to the studs
and the struts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-636...53.m2749.l2649
once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.
Bah, felt like being lazy today, so even though I had the cables I didn't get started on it yet. What's the easiest way to attack it? Start from the front cable and work my way to the rear?
Sorry James but...that is a fail. The best way to mount them is in a location where they are completely horizontal when the hood is closed. Move the mount that is attached to the hood further forward and find an anchor point on the ledge where the fender bolts up. It is exerting too much force that far back. The mounts on those struts aren't awesome either - are these the struts from your tool box lid?
yes they are from the toolbox thats why it,s not holding. as far as being permanently nope just experimenting. as far as being in a bind or exerting to much force the hood close's with no problems @ all and opens ez just like normal. it,s just the struts are too weak to hold open the hood if all else fails i can always go back to the rod lol
FYI:
the weight of of the hood is 38.1 lbs .
Last edited by jamesw; 03-18-2018 at 06:46 AM.
Got upset with myself for being lazy and not doing anything to the truck today. So I pulled it into the shop and cleaned the contacts in the socket for the drivers side front blinker again since it stopped working again. Got that working again, cool used that Mobile one syn grease this time instead of the lithium grease which I think is hygroscopic. Then moved on to replace the stupid dry wall T bolts with the proper fastener, and checked the tire pressure. Rear's were at 20psi, brought them up to 32, one front was at 22 the other at 33, put them both to 33...then on the way back to the house from the shop thought maybe I should have set the rear at 30 and the front 35...oh well easy change. I guess tomorrow I'll start on the brake cables.
Also decided to open this thing up... interesting. That WASP WAS NOT THOUGH! Killed that evil bastard! Did not expect that when I pulled the cover off! Luckily it was cool in the shop and he wasn't to active.
So good news! I didn't need the front cable or rear brake shoes! So those can go back to the store for a refund. Was getting late by the time I started though and I had no one to help with the hydraulic brakes (pumping them) so I decided not to replace the wheel cylinders for now. And just get those parking brake cables swapped out.
Actually was going surprisingly easy considering how dirty the underside of the truck is. Until I get to the wheel back plate brake backing plate, whatever. And this little sob didn't want to cooperate so since it's no good anyway and I have a new one here. SCREW YOU BUDDY! grabbed the propane torch and heated the spring to anneal it.
Grabbed the wire cutters, snip snip snip hah! pulled the cable out so I had more room to work with that spring steel cage thing, has prongs that stick out so it can't be pulled out once installed, 3 of them, must take some special took to press all 3 in at once to remove it. Well I don't have that, but what I do have is that torch, so more fire will make it comply! Got it good and glowing hot, annealed nicely, then it was just push those prongs in and they stayed in, pulled it out and to the trash can it goes!
New one installed
Noticed this little bag of fun while working on the drivers side..
figured I never find them with eggs actually still in them, poked at it. Noticed a very unhappy looking mommy running around! I do NOT like spiders! I wanted to grab the torch for this too, but.. the gas tank was less than a foot away and the filler neck a few inches away... fire didn't seem like a prudent choice here... reminded me of the guy that burnt his house down because of a big ass spider (orb weaver I think)...Okay...well lets see how much they like kerosene in a can... i mean wasp & hornet spray. (stuff sure smells like kerosene...) Didn't seem to like it, good.. I'll remove that egg sack later.
Interestingly this side (drivers) used a C-clip instead of that cage thing.
Bye bye garbage.
So now I have parking brakes again! Plenty of adjustment for the rear cables still as well. I think I will try to adjust them just a tad more. I put it in reverse to try the parking brakes, I can slip the clutch and move, if I let it out quickly though with the brakes set it will stall. So then I moved to my driveway which is fairly steep, set it wont budge, released, let it start to roll, set and it stops. it's like 8/10 of where i'd like it to be but perfectly fine. I'll just get under it and draw in the rear cables a bit and see if that gets me what I'd like from them.
Last edited by RipperXX; 03-17-2018 at 10:32 PM.
Fuggin hell! I don't get it, I resized those pictures! *kicks can*
ETA: Fixed.
Last edited by RipperXX; 03-17-2018 at 10:32 PM.
you can refit the cables. i have used a bit of pipe slipped over the end to compress the cage, then pull out
* obviously only a trick for if they are still good
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