Facet electric fuel pump?

[BradMph]

I use that exact same setup your going to use and though I don't doubt the word of Jim Inglese, but our trucks are not Cobras. It's nice to hear you took in all the info from ideas here at this forum. That's what we are here for and will be here for. Like I said above, I use the exact setup your headed towards and have run it for a reasonable amount of time. My pump is in the cubby hole like Mopar has shown in his thread and I run my fuel pressure regulator on the left fender well in the engine bay as you will see in my repair thread.
Now, I noticed you said that your going to run your pressure at 2 psi and I have to add this will be low for the weber carb at least in my setup experience. I have opened mine to 3.5 psi and I have not done any type of rejetting at all and live at the 2000 ft. elev. By all means run your own ideas as you take in info here, I just want to add some from my experience. I have had nothing but a good running vehicle since the weber install and that is a common denominator here that we all can agree on.
Every DGV weber carb is the same, but every DGV carb is different. For example, some had to change jets and adjust their carbs. When I first got mine it was perfect right out of the box. Since then I have only made tiny adjustments and rebuilt it once.
Your setup is going in the right direction, but your going to have to do a tweak or two that will make it different from ours and that will be yours.
Returning your ideas to the forum is what makes this forum continuously growing for folks as yourself. Keep us informed, we like to hear good news and always like to help with the bad news.

Runon engines are running backwards by the way, lol.

[originalowner]

I use that exact same setup your going to use and though I don't doubt the word of Jim Inglese, but our trucks are not Cobras. It's nice to hear you took in all the info from ideas here at this forum. That's what we are here for and will be here for. Like I said above, I use the exact setup your headed towards and have run it for a reasonable amount of time. My pump is in the cubby hole like Mopar has shown in his thread and I run my fuel pressure regulator on the left fender well in the engine bay as you will see in my repair thread.
Now, I noticed you said that your going to run your pressure at 2 psi and I have to add this will be low for the weber carb at least in my setup experience. I have opened mine to 3.5 psi and I have not done any type of rejetting at all and live at the 2000 ft. elev. By all means run your own ideas as you take in info here, I just want to add some from my experience. I have had nothing but a good running vehicle since the weber install and that is a common denominator here that we all can agree on.
Every DGV weber carb is the same, but every DGV carb is different. For example, some had to change jets and adjust their carbs. When I first got mine it was perfect right out of the box. Since then I have only made tiny adjustments and rebuilt it once.
Your setup is going in the right direction, but your going to have to do a tweak or two that will make it different from ours and that will be yours.
Returning your ideas to the forum is what makes this forum continuously growing for folks as yourself. Keep us informed, we like to hear good news and always like to help with the bad news.

Runon engines are running backwards by the way, lol.

I realize Jim Inglese and his Cobra intakes are are on a different planet than the one we are on. Different planet but same galaxy so to speak-so OTOH, his experience with Webers, be them DCOEs or IDFs is hard to beat. So in my mind, what he recommends carries a bit of weight.

The Holley 12-804 regulator yields 1-4 psi of line pressure. I am assuming (in other words hope) they are adjustable within that range. But I'll find out before I order one.

I don't see a need to run a return line to be honest. Haven't run one since 2007. Why do I need to reinstall one now?

The P4070 is mounted is the stock filter area. The 12-804 is mounted on the LF underhood area. The stock pump fuel lines are just blocked off and left in place. Uncomplicated is my friend.

I look at it this way. The 2007 retrofit is just half complete. LOL.

Those trucks are very forgiving. You give them fuel, spark and compression and they will run. Maybe not the best, but they'll run. IMO, that's why you'll have so many different configurations of components that will "work".

This should work, and rid me of the nagging drivebility issues that have been present since 2007.

Half of the issues were solved with the installation of the Spanish made Weber.

The other half will be solved by getting that fuel pressure down to where the Weber likes it.