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Thread: fuel system

  1. #1

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    Hello everybody,... so I started an introductory thread over in the 1st gen section and started asking questions about bring this truck back to life...I'm think it better to be task specific and so i'm starting with fuel... I pulled the bottom drain plug on the tank to remove old gas, and in the process the gasket just disintegrated... My questions are.. what is the part connected to the drain plug that will not allow me to remove plug to replace gasket? Also should i replace this part sine i have it open. Ultimately i would like to refresh as much as possible on the fuel system so as not to have problems in the future.
    can anyone give me basic rundown on fuel system overhaul??

  2. #2

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    The drain plug should simply unscrew from the tank (it's a 17mm plug if I recall - I've done 2 recently due to old fuel in one tank and complete removal of another from a wreck) The drain plug should have a copper washer gasket on it. The fuel delivery system is pretty basic. 3 lines at the tank end to disconnect - main fuel (5/8" - you will need approx 4' to replace the hoses at the tank end and the engine bay from the main line to pump and carb), the fuel return (1'4" - another 4' length, similar deal as the main line) and the vapor return (1/4" - not 100% sure, maybe 2' of hose...). There's a fuel filter tucked under the wheel well liner panel along with a small trap cannister for the vapor return (the vapor cannister is screwed to the truck - this doesn't need to be replaced but the mounting screw needs to be taken out so you can drop the whole tank). The tank is suspended under the tray by 4 x 14mm bolts (you'll need a long extension bar on a socket - and get the truck up on axle stands on the tank side or you will struggle to slide the tank out once you've taken the bolts out and risk damaging the 2 breather exchange chambers on top of the tank). Once it's out, replace the hoses and fuel filter (don't buy a cheap ass filter that has been glued together - E10 can dissolve the glue and it will REALLY mess up the fuel lines and carb). There are transfer hoses on top of the tank but unless you want to be super thorough I wouldn't replace those or for some reason they have deteriorated. I would personally add another fuel filter at the engine bay end of the main line before the pump for added protection. Hope this is easy enough to follow.

  3. #3

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    Thanks Geezer!! heading out in the yard to get er done!!!

  4. #4

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    Hey Geezer, the drain plug is attached to something inside the tank and therefore will not allow me to remove ???

  5. #5

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    also... yes I want to be thorough and would appreciate any hot tips on quality parts and or upgrades

  6. #6

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    There's no drain plug into the tank - are you referring to the fuel sender unit bolted to the upper side of the fuel tank? It's held in by 5 philips head screws next to the filler hose. If the seal has been damaged you'll need to take out the tank to replace it anyway. Be careful with the sender unit as it is not only ancient but isn't robust. The fuel drain plug is on the bottom end of the tank facing the rear of the truck. Get a good clean oil pan tray and get as much fuel out as you can before removing the tank from your truck.

  7. #7

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    i was actually referring to the plug on the bottom. At first i didnt want to be aggressive and break something... but i was able to wiggle the plug enough to see that it was a filter (orange cylindrical screen) and i could also see that it was cracked so i pulled it out. the was in my opinion a tremendous amount of hardened goo (old gas?) on the plug and filter.... should I clean the inside of the tank?? doable?? necessary?

  8. #8

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    Also ... what is a fuel sender? i've heard the term many times and when i went to the parts store today to get my head around all the available replacement parts i even asked the guy {young} at the counter what a fuel sender was and he said "for fuel injection"...

  9. #9

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    http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Fact...UEL_SYSTEM.pdf

    I'm looking at page 5 of the PDF that camoit has provided and see no reference to a filter inside of the tank. If you go to the link it gives a more accurate run down on removing the fuel tank (I think I over simplified it).
    Last edited by SubGothius; 01-24-2023 at 02:14 PM. Reason: Fixed broken link

  10. #10


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    Fuel Sender Typically is the float unit that "sends" the fuel level info to the gauge on the dash, on a Fuel injected system the Fuel Pump is on the same mounting frame as the float in the tank. Accessed from the top.

  11. #11

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    how do i do pictures from my phone??

  12. #12

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    so I dropped the tank... there's two square units on top and one round device on side under fill pipe???????

  13. #13

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    so i want to replace the fuel pump.... is there a particular brand that stands out??? techniques??? pitfalls???

  14. #14

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    Quick question - are the details on your user profile correct? If you have a carb'd engine it will be either a 4G63 (alternatively G63B) or a G54B (4G54). Injected is a 4G64 and the model of truck is later than 1986. If your profile is accurate it will speed up the process of getting the right info

  15. #15

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    model L023g engine G54B.... i removed the bolts on the fuel pump... is there a trick to get it pass the carb??

  16. #16




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    OK - there is a fuel filter on the plug on the bottom of the tank as you have found on US trucks - the line for fuel pickup goes into the center of the filter, and the filter and plug unscrews as a unit. If the filter is that cruddy and you can find one - replace that filter. The best way to remove the fuel pump is to remove the carb, but that can create a whole new set of problems. It has been many years since I removed one with the carb in place, but if you bump the starter to change the lobe on the cam for the pump, it can come out without removing the carb. The 2 square pieces on the top of the tank are for the evap system, and the round unit on the side of the tank is the sending unit. Don't bother trying to find one at a parts store - Mike Warme on here is the only one that has the right parts - I bought one from him, and they are genuine Mitsubishi.
    Pennyman1
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  17. #17

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    Thank you Pennyman! ironically i was PM ing you as you posted in my thread

  18. #18

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    so were I stand is the fuel pump bolts are off... I removed the four bolts on top of the carb thinking i could swing a little and remove fuel pump.... no workey!!!!!!!!!!

  19. #19




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    there are 5 bolts - you have to take off the 5th one on the dogleg tab on the carb. The carb may need some gentle tapping at the base to release the carb from the manifold - no hammers!
    Pennyman1
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  20. #20

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    standing over the driver side fender ...where is this elusive dog leg you speak of???

  21. #21




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    should be right in front of you if you are at the drivers fender and look at the carb straight on.
    Pennyman1
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  22. #22

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    you mean the one that you cant get a wrench on ?????

  23. #23




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    Ya that one...
    Pennyman1
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  24. #24

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    so the tank and fuel pump are out... the new pump came with a spacer? i'm assuming for 2.0 since i did not see one when i removed mine??? also since I am not able to get my hand into the tank... any recommendations for cleaning??? spay a few cans of carb cleaner??? kerosene???

  25. #25

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    IMG_3568.JPG

    so this is the part I was referring to attached to drain plug in gas tank... what is it and is it readily available??

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