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Thread: 4.3 V6 Chevrolet Mercruiser Multi Port Fuel Injection

  1. #1


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    Arrow 4.3 V6 Chevrolet Mercruiser Multi Port Fuel Injection

    My truck is a 86 Mighty Max Spx and the only thing stock about it, is it’s looks.
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    I’m running a 97 4.3 Chevrolet with a TH-350 with a Edelbrock 500cfm carb.
    But this is coming to a end.
    I recently purchased a GM 4.3 Vortec Mercruiser intake manifold, which is not a spider (poppet style) injection system that come stock on the GM Vortec 4.3 vehicles. I picked this up off ebay for $309.00. Brand New Loaded. The included injectors are Delphi EV6 24lbs/hr. @ 43.5psi. units with USCAR connectors.
    They work out to about 27lbs/hr. at this fuel pressures of about 53psi. These connectors are used on some Ford SVT models and the LS2 and LS7 engines. They are high impedance (~14ohm) and the same physical dimensions from o-ring to o-ring as standard Bosch type injectors.

    USEABLE .....for naturally-aspirated L31's. Anything blown or having more cubic inches will want more of an upgrade in flow than the OEM Marine injectors can provide. (The whole point of this swap is that be able to put any size injectors in there you want!)
    Standard EV1 injectors will also fit the rails and a harness must be made anyway. Connectors for the "oval" USCAR connectors are available.
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    The stock 96/97 fuel injection systems were junk along with the GM black box ecu/pmc. And showing the Plenum is off the intake to show the spider injection system. The harness plugs and black box ecu.
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    Here's how Mercruiser and Chevrolet used their 1998/99 ECM 555 for "batch fire" fuel injection system.
    (Batch fire, meaning all injectors fire all at once awaiting for a intake valve to open.)

    Speed / Density Theory and Operation Speed/Density Theory.
    All MerCruiser EFI engines operate on the fuel injection strategy called ªSpeed/Densityº. This means that the ECM primarily looks at the engine's speed and the intake manifold's air density in order to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. The engine requires an air/fuel mixture of approximately 14:7 to 1 in the combustion chambers. Since the EFI system doesn't control air flow, it must determine how much air is flowing through the engine in order to calculate the correct amount of time to fire the fuel injectors. The net result is that there must be 1 part of fuel for every 14.7 parts of air going through the engine. Since the engine is basically an air pump, we know that an engine is capable of pumping a certain (maximum) amount of air at any specific rpm. The actual amount of air it pumps (at a specific rpm) depends on the density of the air in the intake manifold. The air density (in the intake manifold) will vary depending on rpm, throttle plate position and barometric pressure. If the air density in the intake manifold is known, the actual amount of air flowing through the engine (the ªAir Massº or ªMass Air Flowº) could be calculated. This calculated (and the actual) air flow is a repeatable function, meaning that at a specific rpm and a specific manifold absolute pressure reading, the air flow through the engine will always be the same. However, in the speed/density system we do not actually calculate the actual air flow. Instead, the ECM measures the rpm and the air density, then refers to a programmed ªlookup tableº in the ECM's EEPROM. This lookup table will be programmed with the correct fuel injector information for every rpm and density reading. The programming engineer has to come up with these figures, because the ECM is not actually calculating the Mass Air Flow. The speed-density system depends on the engine being unmodified (from its original production state). If we change the volumetric efficiency of the engine in any manner, the amount of air flow for a given rpm and air density will change, causing the ECM to deliver the incorrect amount of fuel. Any modification to the following components will influence the air flow through the engine, throwing the speed-density system out of calibration. 1.Pistons and combustion chambers (anything that changes the compression ratio). 2.Camshaft changes (effecting the valve timing, lift and duration). 3.Changes to intake and exhaust valve size, as well as ªporting and polishingº 4.Installing different intake and/or exhaust manifolds. 5.Installing a different size throttle body and/or flame arrestor. Mass Air Flow Systems Mass Air Flow systems actually measure the amount of air (or ªAir Massº) entering the engine, so they generally can compensate for modifications or changes to the air flow through the engine. While these systems are generally considered more accurate, they are generally not as robust (and cost effective) as the speed-density system. Mass Air Flow systems are typically used in automotive applications to meet stringent emissions and fuel economy requirements. One method of measuring the mass of the air flow into the engine is the ªHot Wireº system. A small wire is stretched across the air intake. An electrical charge is run through the wire (causing it to heat up). As air flows over the wire, it changes the temperature of the wire, which changes its resistance (and the resulting current flow). The ECM can pick up this change in current flow and calculate the amount of air entering the system. EFI SYSTEM COMPONENTS/OPERATION - 1-1 MerCruiser EFI III (1004) 2

    Another method of measuring the mass of the air flow into the engine is the ªvane-typeº Mass Air Flow sensor. A movable vane is mounted in (protrudes into) the air intake system. The rush of intake air through the sensor causes the vane to be deflected. The deflection is measured and a signal sent to the ECM. NOTE: The speed-density system is more than accurate enough for our marine applications. The additional reduction in emissions and the resulting increase in fuel economy (with the Mass Air Flow system) are negligible. But when automotive manufacturers must meet emissions standards, they often have to take small improvements where they can find them. Speed/Density Operation The engine's RPM is easily determined from the REF HIGH signal on systems with EST ignition, or the timing signal from the Thunderbolt Distributor's hall-effect sensor on small-block MEFI 3 models. To determine the density of the air in the intake manifold, we need to know the intake manifold vacuum, which we measure with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It is important to remember that a MAP sensor measures the manifold pressure above absolute zero (like a barometer), while a conventional vacuum gauge measures the manifold pressure below the current atmospheric pressure. The use of the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor allows us to compensate for variations in atmospheric pressure due to weather and altitude changes. A conventional vacuum gauge would not provide us with this needed information. NOTE: While the temperature of the air does affect its density, not all engines use an IAT (intake air temperature) sensor. If no IAT is present, then the ECM assumes 75 degree Fahrenheit for all density calculations. If an IAT is present, then the ECM can more accurately determine the air's density. However, the amount of correction the IAT adds is a relatively small amount (approximately 10% maximum change in fuel flow). In review, our standard, unmodified production engines flow a repeatable (and therefore ªknownº) amount of air at any specific engine rpm and manifold pressure. With this knowledge, the ECM can be programmed to deliver the correct amount of fuel from the combination of the speed sensor (distributor signal) and density information (from the MAP sensor). It is often said that the speed-density system runs ªin theory aloneº, since the ECM doesn't really know how much air is flowing through the engine, it is just assuming it knows how much (based on the repeatability of airflow theory). In reality, the system is simple, rugged and works extremely well. But, the ECM cannot compensate for changes in volumetric efficiency of the engine.

    A note on the MEFI 3 (GM 98/99 software) the PDF says,
    (13) oxygen sensor inactive, (24) Speed sensor inactive, (31) Governor not tracking, (32) EGR valve not tracking, (54) O2 sensor LEAN (55) O2 sensor RICH ….foot notes, are not used in 98/99 ECM 555.
    http://translate.googleusercontent.c...TZCjzWvaQCqP2Q <---if you click this you will download the PDF, just saying. for me it was a good read and I'll refer back to it later?.
    The newer marine ECM's to run this intake (96 to 2006 vortec) cost about $1700, they are sequencial and they do fail.
    So now you know where we are going and why. Let's go on.

    You can buy a Stand Alone engine harness for about $470 for the vortec v6, but it will come with the spider injection single plug and you can use the electronic transmission or go without like I am doing.
    http://www.hotrodharness.com/fuel-in...harnesses.html
    The spider injection ‘is sequential, meaning it injects the fuel just before spark ignites. The marine intake has 6 separate injectors so the injector harness needs to be extended which I will cover later.

    Important note here. if I can?
    I’ve done so much reading on forums for research and seen the pain in the ass of reading post after post on trying to find the answers I really needed was 3 hours of reading.
    So this thread and in this main post will I will try to contain all the questioned asked by a forum member and the answer will be here in this #1 post to stop the spread of important information being spread though out the thread.

    This is going to get very technical for some and take a while for this thread to get written. so l will add to it as my time allows.
    ================================================== ===========================================
    This is my 97 S10 engine harness and we will be changing it to fit a 2002 blazer which uses a xxxx0411 pcm, they are tunable.
    Gm uses the VAT System, the “chipped key” which can be as they say, masked or shut off. More on this later.

    So with that said, if my attempt fails I can buy a custom Vortec v6 stand alone engine harness with a 4 wire hook up and turn key.

    Starting out I still need the stock configuration of the harness so I pegged to a piece of plywood and marked each and every wire. If I checked once I've checked it three times. Accuracy here counts.
    Here's 15 GM vehicles wiring diagrams, downloadable PDF files.
    https://docs.google.com/folderview?h...hiODIzMTRhNzdh
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    So here I have all my wires identified and triple checked starting to remove parts of the harness I’m not using, such as the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) or the clutch switch . On the lower left is the wiring pulled out and no longer being used. (there's more later).
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    Next is the fuel injection harness.
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    So yes, I am completely taking each and every mini harness out of the makings of a full harness. (We have ZERO room for mistakes).
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    So now here we are at sensors, we've discussed this on here on the MSD sticky link.
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...D-Thread/page2
    Your truck and my engine run off of hall sensors, Gm uses a three (3) wire hall sensor on many ciruits such as the TPS, CKP and the CSS in the GM distributor. Some run off just the PCM.
    One "key powered hot" (GM, pink),
    One signal. (GM, in many colors)
    One 5 volt. ref (GM, in many colors) GM chose to use a 5v. ref. (makes can differ?).
    +[The 5 volt reference is used like a on a gas pedal or Throttle position sensor. 5 volt could be at idle, 1v = Wide Open Throttle (WOT)]+
    The PCM use the signal and the 5v ref to operate, this why every wire must be accurate or we'll fail at the twist of the ignition key.

    I'll explain a bit on the GM 0411. From 98 to 2002 in the processor alone they list here is a 512K and a 1MB, means twice as fast.
    I'm Considering, OmniTuner DUAL-FLASH is a device allows you to install two separate flash chips in one Powertrain Control Module. Most GM Generation III applications are supported but when ordering specify which PCM you have so that the DUAL-FLASH has the proper flash chips installed. GM used both 512K and 1MB flash chips in the GEN III PCMs. The DUAL-FLASH replaces the flash chip that was installed by the factory with two separate OEM flash chips that individually appear to the PCM as a single flash chip when selected. Through the use of a switch of your choice you have the ability to select which one of these flash chips is used by the PCM. You have the ability to switch between flash chips only when the ignition is in the “off” position to prevent accidently switching between flash chips when the car is running. Possible applications for the DUAL-FLASH include tuning a vehicle for multiple fuels, assuming this tuning is compliant with emission regulations. You can use ethanol based fuels when available and switch back to conventional fuels when desired. Additionally you might choose to tune one flash chip for fuel economy but leave the other flash chip stock. Any tune that you can flash to a stock PCM can be flashed to either one of the flash chips of a DUAL-FLASH enabled PCM. Cost $475.00
    http://mrk-motorsports.com/pages/store.html
    This is my core 0411 pcm and plugs with coil and ICModule I will use.
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    And Yes, even though they can turn off the VATs and flash a baseload for engines, some tuner programs you need a VIN#.
    (Any VIN# including a junkYard VIN#, mine engine is a "W") see the W?
    It has noting to do with being a legal document, it has to do with tuning and configuration to tune the specific engine.
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    Now that I've triple checked each wire and clearly know the C1 and C2 connectors of the pcm. I've wrapped them up for the (later) removal. There are as of now 11 on blue C2 and 18 wires being removed leaving 23 on red C1 and 32 on blue C2.
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    The other day I went back and got the O2 harnesses off the 02, well, as much as I could get. I've found that this PCM talks much more on personal level
    to the engine parts way different. it is said that the 97 O2 system will work ok, but why would one not up grade and let it communicate and drop some more wires.
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    It appears I cut just a tad too close. If I recall correctly this is called SP-100, which is just a splice for the 5 volt ref on the HO2sensors. These 3 wires are from the three sensors, Bank 1, Bank 2 and bank 1 sensor 2 into the pcm. Note here, Bank 1 sensor 2 is behind the catalyst and not needed in my application.
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    I ordered some more parts. 2001-2004 Chevrolet S10 Knock Sensor Connector,2002-2005 Chevrolet Blazer Oxygen Sensor - Delphi ES20319,
    1985-2004 Chevrolet S10 Water Temperature Sensor - Delphi TS10075, 2001-2005 Chevrolet Blazer Knock Sensor - Standard Motor Products KS115
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    This is the 97 one wire knock sensor hanging with the oil pressure sender.
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    This is exactly why you check once, check it twice and check it thrice times.
    The Air Idle Control is the same but different configuration and color of wires. GM engineers are sneaky SOB's.
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    Here's are some facts on PCM/ECUs most do not know.
    Engine Wiring Harness Rework Service and PCM Programming
    http://www.my-efi.com/my-efi-pricing-list.html
    For All LT1 LT4 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 7.0 7.4 8.1
    LM7 L59 LY6 L76 LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 L99 LS9 LS7 LQ4 LQ9
    LS4 4.8L 5.3L 6.0L 6.2L 7.0L 7.4L 8.1L Engines and More.
    We can also rewire Jeep and Ford Engine Wiring Harnesses.
    ECM PCM ECU TCM Tuning Programming Parameters
    VATS or Vehicle Anti Theft Delete. Engine Will Not Run Unless Deleted From ECM PCM
    Reduced Spark Knock
    Advance Timing
    Abuse Mode and Torque Management Delete
    87-93 or 91-93 Octane
    Axle Ratio And Tire Size. This Is How Shift Points Are Determined And Exact Numbers Should be Given
    EGR Delete
    Air Pump Delete
    Air Conditioning
    Fan On Off Temperatures
    MPH Limit Deletion
    RPM Limit
    Shift Points
    Shift Time Reduction
    MAF Larger
    Injectors Larger
    Camshaft
    Intake
    Map Sensor
    Throttle Body
    Foot Pedal
    Codes Any And All
    4L60E 4L65E 4L70E
    4L80E 4L85E
    6L80E
    6L90E
    T-56
    700R4
    TH400
    TH350
    NV3500 NV4500
    Any Transmission
    Shift Firmness
    And More
    From all the web sites I've checked out, this man has been the most helpful. Here's a email from Jeff.

    Hi Rick,

    The 2002 pcm should be a 12200411 service number. As long as it came out of a 4.3 v6 vehicle, the pcm you have will work. If it came out of a v8 it will need a crank relearn from the dealer which can cost 75.00 or more. I do have a 12200411 v6 pcm here. They are 175.00 plus 19.00 shipping.

    Typical things to delete would be vehicle anti theft so it starts and runs. The rear oxygen sensors and emissions can be deleted. The oxygen sensors from any 96-02 v6 4.3 all work the same but have different plus. Ones a flat 4 (prong connector) on older years and the other is a square 4 (prong connector) on newer ones sometimes. If you run oxygen sensors you need the driver side and passenger side. They are bank one sensor one and bank two sensor two. You can delete the third oxygen sensor for the catalytic converter. You want to keep the mass air flow sensor and intake air temperature sensor. You can have all functions and codes deleted for the transmission too. There are many codes and functions you wont need and things that can be changed.
    I dont normally see people add a newer pcm to an older harness. As long as you have the proper grounds and wires in tue right locations you should be okay. I do have a 01-02 4.3 v6 harness here. I dont know what the mercruiser intake looks like.
    If there's anything else let me know.

    That's a good response from Jeff, I will be using him. Others sites just have you fill out a form and if you chose wrong, it's on you for what you do not know.

    So I have some wire splicing to do and I'm going with these. Solder Heat Shrink Terminal Installation:
    You can get them here, http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/cr...rink-terminals


    Dang it, I some how ordered the wrong connectors. oh well?


    YES please do say if you see something that doesn't make any sense.
    I am illiterate and human, I once was a dumb kid.
    These are going on my doors in most forward and lower position. I think it works very well with my truck.
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    Last edited by Rickdees; 01-18-2015 at 11:27 PM. Reason: building a thread

  2. #2



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    Excellent write up Rick, you always go that extra mile on showing the details and that harness layout your creating is intense. I'm also glad to see how you went off the grid and used a boat motor intake system for your upgrade.
    I hope this doesn't require a set of wet headers because the extra weight for the water tank would be terrible, lol JK!

  3. #3


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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    I hope this doesn't require a set of wet headers because the extra weight for the water tank would be terrible, lol JK!
    Do you know what that would do for a twin turbo set up running water wetter?
    Don't laugh, I think way outside the box. They make a dry set up now and it could be done.

  4. #4

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    Man your truck is sweet! Hard to improve on an already great truck.

  5. #5



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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickdees View Post
    Do you know what that would do for a twin turbo set up running water wetter?
    Don't laugh, I think way outside the box. They make a dry set up now and it could be done.
    Still have to be concerned with that weight at 8 pounds per gallon of H2O, but I hear ya on that. Perhaps a Freon or similar fridgerant fluid would be more practical and really lower temps on the turbos.



    Check this guy out on wire harness, his prices aren't too crazy either.
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    http://www.ronfrancis.com/

  6. #6


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    Baby steps

    I do believe pegging the harness to plywood helped me out a lot and I can see this wiring could make one feel overwhelmed.
    I didn't have to extend any the fuel injection wires. Going in a different direction with the Cam and MAF sensor harness had about a foot of extra wire, they share a keyed 12v source that I cut (behind the distributor) then I'll extend it. The coil and ignition control module wires where long also.
    Seeing a bunch of wires and knowing each is circuit puts that overwhelmed feeling at at ease.
    The pink wires are the keyed hot 12 volt, the pinks will end up on 4 circuits, each on a fuse. I still need to make the two hO2 sensors harness.
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  7. #7



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    Boy that dizzy sure looks like it drops deep. The wiring don't look so bad now too, your right. If I had that setup in my house, our cats would make that the new play thing and probably be dragging that intake all around the house.
    Are you going to have to install anything new by way of dash warning lights or gauges with this new setup. Or are you USB terminal friendly on this stuff?

  8. #8


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    I dread the thought of wiring gauges, again. The pmc won't even tell the alternator to turn on. It will only manage the ignition/timing and fuel injection system.
    Yes, it will have the hook up for getting trouble codes and USB for tunning.
    God willing, I do intend on running a turbo at about 3 to 6 psi.
    Not anything to blow it up, just some help to breathe.
    Your cats wont drag this intake around, only the plenum is aluminum.

  9. #9


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    I haven't stopped, just gathering parts that I will need. I do not want my truck down for more then just hours, period.
    I looked at the walbro fuel pumps, read the reviews and ended up buying a Airtex. These pumps run at about 110 to 120 psi for multi port fuel injection which most common 'good' fuel filters only hold 60 psi. I'm currently running a Napa/Carter low pressure fuel pump at the fuel tank that I will be running to push the to fuel to the Airtex pump. Both fuel pumps run the same amount of fuel per hour, the carter has a built in regulator.
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    The fuel filters, one is a pre filter (@ fuel tank) 100 micron, the other is a 10 micron after the Airtex f.p. to the injectors.
    I still have that regret of needing to cut a hole in my hood and I still need to order PCM.

  10. #10



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    Keep your hood, but buy a second hood like I did. I didn't want to molest my stock hood and found one at the wrecking yard for a great price.
    Great choice on the Airtex, you should be happy with it.

  11. #11


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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    Keep your hood, but buy a second hood like I did. I didn't want to molest my stock hood and found one at the wrecking yard for a great price.
    Great choice on the Airtex, you should be happy with it.
    I'm with you on the hood 100%. I read the pro and cons about parts before I purchase anything and then I shop for weeks to find that deal.
    Me building a little truck and doing it this way set me back at least 7 years. Makes me think I'm a wise shopper.

  12. #12

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    Howdy Rickdees, You have done a lot with this little 4.3. I am not sure I should be a member I don't own an Arrow Just a Chevrolet S10. I was looking in to the Marine 4.3. I have seen lots of different things, but you have done and listed a lot more. I have been looking into a guy that is running an Aluminium block 4.3 in a Syclone, Doing 7.56, 165 mph. All Wheel Drive Turbo with a CO2 cooled intercooler. I think his name is Jeremy. Anyway I used to build engines a long time ago, simple cheats was to use marine parts to build an engine. I was looking into Long block 4.3 engines for a replacement for mine, They seem affordable. I found a long block for Industrial use for Natural Gas. I believe there is a lot of difference between these and the same Marine long block. Cam, heads, intake and Horse Power. One thing besides all the details you have out lined on this page is the Oil Pan. I am just asking if you are using the cast aluminium oil pan? I know I am in deep on my project, I haven't been machining engines for 30 years. I am thinking of a marine engine because they produce about 100 more horse power than the stock automotive application, 162 hp. I am also wondering where you got that Intake? I guess the only other thing is why is there not Coil Packs and a computer to manage the firing order? Seem a miss to see a distributor. Mean while I hope you are having a lot of fun with it. You seem to have taken suspension and other speed details quite seriously. It would be nice to see it run an AutoCross! For Now I am just a big dreamer, Thanks again!

  13. #13


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    I'm still alive, I ordered the PCM this morning, after this I believe it's game on.
    The reason the marine engine has more H.P. are the injector size. Stock S10 spider injection (poppet style) are a 19 lbs. injector.
    The marine injectors are 26lbs @ 58# of fuel pressure and they'll get you 290 H.P. with a turbo set @ about 5.5 psi
    This same fuel pressure on the stock poppet style will be about 23 lbs.

    To be continued!!!
    Last edited by Rickdees; 05-28-2016 at 10:05 PM. Reason: wording

  14. #14


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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrysdman View Post
    I am just asking if you are using the cast aluminium oil pan?
    I know I am in deep on my project.

    I am thinking of a marine engine because they produce about 100 more horse power than the stock automotive application, 162 hp. I am also wondering where you got that Intake?
    I guess the only other thing is why is there not Coil Packs and a computer to manage the firing order?
    Seem a miss to see a distributor. For Now I am just a big dreamer, Thanks again!
    As far as I know the 4.3 with the balance shaft only comes with a cast pan.
    Deep, that depends on how you look at it? I'd imagine I've spent $800 a year but this a 13 year old doodle project. That's a cheap hobby.
    I answered the more Marine HP question.
    I believe the 4.8 has coil on each cylinder and they're drive by wire.
    I do have a brand new stock distributor, I'm all now all stock GM with the exception of the marine intake (which are sold on E-Bay) and a larger cam but not large enough to hamper the PCM. I still have to use a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) even though the TH350 is non electronic, Dakota digital makes a 8k pulse per mile VSS (they can alter the pulse in the PCM). The PCM needs to know the vehicle is moving.
    Yeah I have had a lot of fun doing this and a lot of learning. Sharing what can be done is all what it's about and why I give A LOT of details.

  15. #15



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    Only the early 4.3 even fire engine had no balance shaft. I want to say 1993 and up had them. But you can use the vortech head on the early block and they flow so much better.
    The we have the odd fire. That has 4 bolt mains and way more cam. They were nascar engines for the Bush series. Once that went away so did a lot of parts.
    See my build thread for parts and changes. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...Chevy.-4.3L-V6
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  16. #16


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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickdees View Post
    I ordered the PCM this morning, after this I believe it's game on.
    To be continued!!!
    Not so quick, a day later I get a refund they don't support the V6
    Jeff mentioned at the bottom of post 1 backed out of flashing and removing VATS on my PCM.
    So, I find another programmer and send an e-mail to Frost tuning who has the reconditioned pcm's and cc it to Brendan from LT1 which does the V6 engine. He needs an 8 digit number off the injectors which the Merc injectors #s are 0280 150 165 Bosch also used in Jaguar he can't tune without the data.
    Some guys who can data log and tune with HP tuners do find way to use them but that guy is not me.
    Here is an example on amount of data points needed to properly setup a pcm for an injector.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's his list of injectors he can tune with data he currently has.
    The LS1 only had 3 part#’s. They were all EV1 connector. And used numbers 12554271, 12555894, 12561462 The middle on is 24lb (1999 and 2000), the first (1997-98) and 3rd (01-04) are 28lb. These are standard height as I’ll call it, fit the first LS1’s, fits LT1, Tune Port injection, ford 5.0 from the late 80s early 90s.
    If you need an EV6 injector, they are usually shorter. The 07-2012 truck flex fuel injector is easy to find on ebay, sets of 8 less then $100.00 These use part number 12613411 for a 36lb, and part# 12613412 for a 50lb. I have a set of the 50lb in my completely stock 6.0L and they run great, idle great, again, it’s a GM factory injector. These two injectors are the same height as the 99-07 standard fuel injector.
    There is a slightly shorter injector than the LS1, taller than the standard fuel truck, it’s the flex fuel injector used in the 02-07 trucks. These are EV6 connector and flow around 36lb as well. Part number 12580426
    Here is the EV1 and EV6 injectors, off course different type of plug.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I went with #12561462 a 28lb injector @ 43.5lb fuel pressure for Corvette/Camaro 5.7l.
    I still need a 97/98 Corvette adjustable fuel pressure regulator, these intakes run @ 58 t0 60 lbs. I will have over 100 lb. as noted in post #1.
    Even with the Weber carburetor in trucks such as ours fuel pressure is important. Watch injectors shut down.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgepPxF0Af0
    I re ordered a refurbished bead blasted and powder coated 01220411 pcm $145.00 from the same guy.
    http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/products_pcm01.htm
    and sent it directly to Brendan he'll do the programing and base tune for $75.00
    http://www.lt1swap.com/

    To be continued!
    Last edited by Rickdees; 06-18-2016 at 01:00 PM. Reason: adding info, keeping thread short

  17. #17


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    Head to intake

    Head to intake miss match. Some good some bad. I am going match the ports. I circled the H for head or I for the intake where the shaving work that need done. This wasn't in my plan at all.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickdees View Post
    Head to intake miss match. Some good some bad. I am going match the ports. I circled the H for head or I for the intake where the shaving work that need done. This wasn't in my plan at all.
    Might not have been in your plan but it still would've been a good idea from the get go. It will help flow and that has to be a good thing.

  19. #19


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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Might not have been in your plan but it still would've been a good idea from the get go. It will help flow and that has to be a good thing.
    Yes sir, it no doubt it has to be helpful. I never did checked the edelbrock I took off, but now I'm way past that. I have no regrets doing this now.
    This went down like surgery or like being at the dentist since the heads are on the engine. (Crazy)
    So I caught myself with some readings but that's why I check it twice then check it again. I stuffed rags in the ports pack it tape it mulitlpe layers then sealed the tape edge with some vasoline. I missed one cut so this picture I had to cover up again.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I laid out and plotted off the bolt pattern on the head and intake working off of center. I still have small cuts to do on the intake.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Two days to do this but doing it correct. I am beat.
    Here are my old and new injectors, the ones in the fuel rail are the new ones and they came with the smaller black o-ring at the base of the injector, the older ones (but still new) had the red o-ring at the base which both are to be seated deep into the intake. The new ones didn't fit and were lose so I switched the red o-ring on the upper o-ring grove on the new injector which made them seat on top of the intake nice and tight, which is also machined at a taper.
    These both have bump stops on the injector, the old ones the stop is at the base hitting the intake and the new are at the top hitting and stopping on the fuel rail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Rickdees; 07-29-2016 at 11:07 PM.

  20. #20

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    It's when you roll up the sleeves and do your own port work you begin to understand why a shop charges extortionist prices to do it. Your work looks excellent though - easily on par with any decent machine shop

  21. #21



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    Should run a vacuum at the same time when shavings start to fly also. Catch them so they don't end up in your clothes or anywhere else. IMO

  22. #22



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    There was a build thread on here that shows the 4.3 with a marine intake injection set up. IDK remember who it was but it was way cool.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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    clicking HERE.

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  23. #23


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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    It's when you roll up the sleeves and do your own port work you begin to understand why a shop charges extortionist prices to do it. Your work looks excellent though - easily on par with any decent machine shop
    This coming from a guy who's wife says he's anal about everything, thank you. I don't care for die grinders but at work it's sometimes required, I've used them so much your hand and wrist hurt. I was a shop boilermaker now a shop Ironworker. Forever.
    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    Should run a vacuum at the same time when shavings start to fly also. Catch them so they don't end up in your clothes or anywhere else. IMO
    I had one near, in that picture I forgot one cut which through the grindings down. I didn't for some reason take a picture when I had it papered fender to fender and over the core support up the fire wall to the hood. I made sure I was not comfortable doing this at all so I touched every base and then some.
    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    There was a build thread on here that shows the 4.3 with a marine intake injection set up. IDK remember who it was but it was way cool.
    Blah hahahaha! There is no other Chevrolet V6 in car or truck running a Merc MPFI Intake on the internet that I have read about, as a matter of fact this thread pops up quite often. Yeah and I have came hear to read what I said, Being a member here is like having a diary for grown up men.
    I'm sloooow and you recognize it. lol
    Quote Originally Posted by crvtec90 View Post
    Man your truck is sweet! Hard to improve on an already great truck.
    Dang it crvtec90, I've been meaning to tell you thank you for like EVER. The hard part is money to go greater, I honestly have more to do.

  24. #24



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    Well how you like that. It's this thread. But I knew it was on here. So yes there is 1 on the net. Bla hahahaha
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Check out the Fear Monger by
    clicking HERE.

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  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickdees View Post
    This coming from a guy who's wife says he's anal about everything, thank you. I don't care for die grinders but at work it's sometimes required, I've used them so much your hand and wrist hurt. I was a shop boilermaker now a shop Ironworker. Forever.
    You suffer for your art. I have said this many times and it will always be my mantra - if you have no love for what you do, pass it to someone who has. And yes, I am delusional (as in pursuing the ideal of perfection). Everything takes 5 times longer, and once in a while someone will see the end product and actually take notice. p.s. I did a stint as a steel worker for a few years and it was brutal, so I have some insight to your world.
    Looking forward to the moment you turn the key and it comes to life. This is a beautifully finished truck

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