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Thread: 1987 D-50 Simplification

  1. #1

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    1987 D-50 Simplification

    I just did my intro thread... http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...=9644#post9644

    And I'm wanting to strip/simplify the engine bay of my truck down as much as possible. The truck has literally no optional equipment, and I'd like to carry that over to under the hood too. So my question is, what can I eliminate/block off? I'm not worried about emissions requirements or anything like that. I just want to get rid of as much stuff as possible while maintaining reliability. Seeing as this is a carbureted engine with a distributor, I'd imagine I can get rid of quite a bit. What do you have for me?

  2. #2



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    Go get a weber first. This will help. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...10-Weber-32-36
    More guys will chime in on what to do, and not to.
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  3. #3

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    So nobody knows anything beyond the Weber?

  4. #4



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    Too much to describe without confusing you. The easiest way to look at this is that the vacuum line from the distrib to the port above the throttle plate stays, the big vac line from the intake to the booster stays, and the rest can go. How you want to deal with the evap can and the egr is up to you.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    Too much to describe without confusing you. The easiest way to look at this is that the vacuum line from the distrib to the port above the throttle plate stays, the big vac line from the intake to the booster stays, and the rest can go. How you want to deal with the evap can and the egr is up to you.
    I got 9.5 mpg on my last tank of gas, so I took that as my cue to upgrade to the Weber 32/36. Now I know that the conversion kit comes with an EGR blockoff, but what do you mean about dealing with the evap can?

  6. #6


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    EVAP canister is up behind the pass headlight. BLACK plastic 'can' that has 3-4 lines going to/from it.
    I did a 'clean up' to my 88 max by moving the washer fluid tank to the firewall and got a self contained power steering pump/res. from a Montero.

    Here's some other info from my thread from the archives..
    http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/vi...php?f=36&t=846

    Then I got a spot weld cutter and took off all the bracketry that was left.
    I'm doing pretty much the same thing on this 86 but it's a little more challenging.

    Hope that helps..
    E

  7. #7

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    I knew what it was. What I'm asking is if it's ok to just take it out. I don't have power steering so that's not a problem. I don't suppose you have any pictures of your engine bay currently?

  8. #8

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    I did the same thing, it is very easy, it just takes time. I went as far as taking all the emissions wiring out of the harness. is it a 2.0 or 2.6, mine was a 2.0. It is pretty easy, when you get the weber pull your old carb off, every single vaccum line (Exept the brake booster and distributor) can be taken off. With the carb off you should be able to see where every line went to, remove everything a vaccum line went to (Exept the brake booster and the distributor), then remove all of the emissions wiring by taking the tape off the wiring harness, and looking under the kick panel on the passenger side to see what wires need to be removed, there are alternator and windsheild washer wires that run through the same harness, dont remove them, tape it back up, then put your weber carb on, connect the weber power valve to one of the open vaccum ports and then connect the distributor vaccum lines to the port, block off the mechanical pump and install an electronic pump near the fuel tank.

    That is exactly what I did, is i just went on a rampage taking every single little vaccum controlled mechanisims out (Have done it on a 2.0 G63B engine and a 1984 2.4l 22R), put the weber on and hooked up the total of 4 vaccum lines (oh the PCV has a vaccum line also, leave that, I didnt do it in my toyota and I damaged some seals and it now leaks oil)

    I have done it, it is easy, it just takes time and common knowledge on how the emissions system works

    Not my pic but hopefully this is what it will look like when you are done

  9. #9

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    Awesome. That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. Thanks man.

  10. #10


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    I'll try and get some pics up now that the engine is out, and might give a better perspective.

    E

  11. #11

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    What kind of mileage do you get with all the vac lines/switches, etc removed?

  12. #12

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    I got in the range of 20-23mpg, but then again my carb did not have the proper jets for my 2.0, it was for a 2.6, In my 4x4 Toyota I get 15-17mpg

  13. #13

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    I just finished my Weber 32/36 and Carter fuel pump install tonight. Runs so much better already and I haven't even dialed in the idle mix yet. Definitely recommend doing this to your D50/MM.

  14. #14



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    Just keep in ming the fuel pump should be no more then 12 inches away from the tank, or you will burn it up. They push better then pull.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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  15. #15


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    got some for ya..








    Just think and keep up with the ideas..
    E

  16. #16


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    OH, and the last one is with the Montero power steering pump with the self contained res.

    E

  17. #17



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    I also see the oil cooler setup froma straquest on that motor - good job!
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

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