1991 monty max 4x4. V6 to 4g swap & RHD. need 4g fit aide

ok. so im new to jap vehicles and new to 4x4's, but not to autos. esp not 80's vw's
audis and bmw's. so im a recovering german car enthusiast.

so ive had this 1991 mighty max for a few years now, bout a year an a half ago i stuffed
the nose into a lift gate of a box truck (dont ask), so its needed a front end for a bit.
Ive always wanted a montero, love the noses. so im putting a monty nose on in place
of the square headlights.

And after digging into the front end w repairs and noticing how simple it would be to swap
the steering over from LHD to Right hand drive (its just a matter of replacing the steering box,
idler arm and tie-rod link rod with the RHD mirror-image units from the UK etc, the entire brake/clutch
pedal assembly moves over to the right side of the firewall. piece of cake.)

so ive got a new RHD idler arm in the post, shud be here next week. thatll tell me if they are
indeed the same bolt pattern and then ill have a steering box and tie rod link shipped over.
i havnt looked into getting a dashboard, its gonna be pricey to ship such a large part, so i might
just make a custom aluminum dash w montero gauges and center console, idk yet...

So, i want to shitcan the crappy V6, ive always preferred 4 cyls. obviously id love to swap in
a turbo 4g, but ive done the turbo thing and im just after a nice reliable modern DOHC 16v.
i was gonna swap in a toyota 2/3RZ after driving one super torquey, then i read the newer 4g64's
are about the same output and it'd be nice to keep it all mitsu. this brings me to my issue;

after reading thru the 4g RWD thread i encountered some forgotten issues.
my plan was to get a 4g outta a 01-05 eclipse and install that with an 87-89 montero
4g transaxle/clutch/starter. heres where i hit the speedbump.
i forgot about the narrow/wide block thing.
-So the big Questions;

-Will a 01-05 eclipse block bolt up to the 87-88 montero 4g bellhousing???
(i believe the montero's/max's ran the narrow block/bellhousing 4g's...)

-Im seeing 3 different FW/crank bolt patterns, 6, 7, and 8 bolt cranks.
i need to know what flywheel is gonna work on the 01-05 eclipse crank
and montero bellhousing??? (if the 4g monty bellhousing doesnt work im going to
make a new bellhousing to fit what i need. i just need a flywheel that'll bolt up to
the newer 4g64 crank and work w a 4WD/RWD setup...)
i was gonna run all 4g montero clutch stuff until i noticed the different crank bolt patts


im sorry for the long read just tryin to explain where im at.if anybody has any tips/info/recommendations
please feel free to school me.
i dont know pic posting yet, but ill tryin get on that asap, we all know w/out pics its not a build......

thanks for any help!
-J.W.

it appears that you live/like a complicated life :) .....but are up to a challenge
Let's see.... you love torque, but don't want turbo.
Well, the Mivec 3.8 V6 will leave all of your 4cyl candidates mentioned in the dust
That swap is documented on the forum, and your particular truck is the ideal recipient
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Max-4X4-Build
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSjp...ature=youtu.be

Looking forward to seeing this one come to life!

JW, here's an easy way to post photos

Click the photo icon at the top of the page:
Attachment 21924


Then this little dialog box pops up, follow these steps:

Attachment 21925
1. click on the "From Computer" tab on the top
2. click on "Choose File" button and select the photo from your computer (try to use horizontal photos, the system will turn vertical photos sideways)
3. click the "Upload File(s)" button- it will turn red, give it a few seconds, your photo will show up

Hope that makes sense

I'm trying to NOT stay 6cyl, unless it was sub-2.8 displacement, and even then I prefer 4cyls....
I'm not after a bunch of torque, the stock 2.4L 16v output is fine w me. I'd rather the better mileage.
Not dead set on no-boost, but I'm not trying to boost off the bat unless I got a bitchin deal on a 4g63t.

Rite now I'm just trying to figure out if the 2001-05 eclipse 4g64 will match an 87-89 monty/max 4x4 bellhousing?
If it will match, what flywheel am I gonna need & what crank bolt count/pattern are they???

I can fab a bell housing w/out much worry, but I'm seeing 6, 7 & 8 bolt flywheels, I are confused.

Thank you for the pic instructions. I'll try in get some posted up soon.

For this to be a successful swap, it needs to be either a 6 or 7 bolt crank (6 bolt = 1G engine/7 bolt = 2G engine) You won't even need to pull them apart to identify them as the 6 bolt engine has a flat sump profile all the way around the base of the block, while the 2G engine has a curved face under the oil pump/crank pulley end of the block. All FWD 4G6X engines are narrow block. The RWD truck 4G64 is a wide block so bear that in mind when planning a swap (using the 5 speed out of a G63B 2.0 truck makes the conversion straight forward) Look up projectzeroG to collect all the info for a RWD engine swap. This is a fantastic resource site to guide you into the dark realm of Mitsubishi power :thumbup:

it's not a given that you'll get better mileage with the 4cyl over the v6. 4 works harder, revs higher.
My very 1st swap was 4cyl to V6.
Same car had noticeably improved economy(est ~15%) with far better driveability (due to torque increase)
Broke the diff immediately & upgraded to bigger, taller ratio (2.92:1 iirc). Same tire diameter
Driveability improved again with fuel economy at least 30% over the 4cyl.... and that's not even trying to granny drive it

Also, better make sure your oem V6 gearing, suits the torque curve whatever 4cyl you choose
Add boost to a 4cyl ?? No comparison. There goes the fuel economy 'theory'. Optimum gear ratio changes once again.


I like your 'anything can fit' spirit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dash

Add boost to a 4cyl ?? No comparison. There goes the fuel economy 'theory'.

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Not in my experience. Try keeping your foot outta the firewall and off boost ud be surprised, they still behave like a 4 cyl
economy wise. If you cant get it to then you can't restrain yourself enough to stop the spool and blow off sounds ALL the time, or your
tune is too rich off boost. I've NO experience with superchargers, or tiny stock turbos for that matter, just to clarify.

Daily drive one for a year or two, they don't hafta go WOT all day, same as a street bike. They don't mind the revs, but they don't
HAVE to scream the whole time. Unless your into that. (screamers are a good time, if they're not obnoxious screamers.... 😉)

The mill I'm aiming to swap in has the same output as the V6 that its replacing. I'm not trying to run an OEM 8v 80's slug of
a low compression turd here. I could give a toss about displacement and anything over 6 cyls ive very little interest in
unless its like a corsair 20-somthing cylinder airplane engine(which I still have no true understanding of yet, due to lack of research)

I like sub 2.8 liter 6 cyls and 4 cyls. I don't see a need for anything bigger than that in a daily driver/ recreational vehicle.
Displacement has a replacement, boost is best.

I just noticed yesterday that this thread should be in the 4x4 section.
I saw mkII Montero/ max and dove right in, my bad. If a mod wants to move it that's fine w me,
I'm sorry for the hasty posting....

You have the rare V6 4x4 with V5MT1 transmission and 4.22 gears. Anything other than a replacement 6G7* from a Mitsubishi will not work with your current setup. Honestly if you want to have a 4g6* in there then get an 89 or older. What I think you are missing though is that torque will be better with the V6 and all of your drive train components are beefier as well. You can still get great fuel economy with a V6 and have plenty of power. I’m a turbo guy myself but decided to go 3.8L with MIVEC. Best decision as it bolted right up to my existing 3.0 bellhousing. Now there is obviously more stuff to tackle but it’s all doable and reliable. Don’t be close minded. Get another V6 and enjoy.

install a turbo, only to 'drive around' it ? who does that ? Makes absolutely no sense
Boost onset with motor under load, needs a fat a/f ratio. Try to lean it out and see what happens
Motor spends a tremendous amount of time under such condition.... moderate acceleration from stop or low speed
How u gonna avoid that ?
Put on a slower spooling big turbo.... and the goal is daily driveability ? Not smart at all
Oem put small quick spooling turbos on there for one reason. Tq curve, Reckon they don't know what they're doing ?

I'm an old rear wheel drive corolla guy. Here's a classic scenario
Begin life with the free revving 1.6dohc. Amusing drive. Hi 40s mpg hwy... at a penalty of hi 16sec 1/4s
Ever popular SR20 swap take it to another performance dimension. Hi 12s stock T25/28 turbo, but mileage cut in half
Owner gets a taste of the silky smooth 4.0 litre lexus V8, then yanks out the SR20 2.0 replacing it with the 4.0.
Mileage improves to between the 2.0 and 1.6. Also no comparison in driveability whatsoever
Just a tap on the throttle, presses you in the seat, scoots away strongly. Hi 12sec 1/4 as well
Motor, loom & ecu typically cost a few hundred bucks in junkyards. Weigh same as the SR20! No more swaps

Quote:

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Displacement has a replacement, boost is best

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Don't believe that horse5hit... we'd all be driving 1.0L if that were true

Its been 10 years since I've had a build thread, I'm beginning to recall why I stopped.
My need for social approval and positive reinforcement is far out weighed by my utter hatred of being told everything I'm doing
wrong, all the time.

Sorry i forgot this is america. Even on a jap forum I get accosted for even thinking about "downgrading" to a 4 cyl w out boost...
You cunts would be humping my leg if this was a 4g63t swap.

Thanks for the few bits of viable information regarding my questions, those of you who were helpful & interested.
Perhaps I'll still tryin post some pics for those who can bear to watch the degradation....

its your ride, put whatever you like in it. No choice will be 'wrong', and definitely don't need our approval
it's just that your reasoning is wack and all over the place. No need to get all up in your feelings
So what if common sense prevails here. Should we appologize for it ? We can't assume you know everything
Like this assuption

Quote:

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You cunts would be humping my leg if this was a 4g63t swap

---

True we're fond of the 4g63t, but you gotta pull your head out to acknowledge other/better options
Why do you think the 3.8 mivec swap happened ?
There is a link around here where a guy turbocharged a $90 dodge caravan motor.
Essentially the same 12 valve truck motor. Made over 500hp/500ft-lbs tq with that 100% bone stock pos 3.0 V6
That's right, without changing a single part on that old tired junkyard motor!
Had I known that way back, I would have never gotten deep into 4G63t gear
V6 is way smoother, no balance shaft crap, compact, better torque throughout = a better drive period, etc...
That's just two samples of folks operating outside the norm and winding up with fantastic results

as long as your one-off approach gets you to where you wanna be.... its all that matters really
whatever powerplant you decide on post it. We can appreciate it all the same

Wow, not get your way much? My 16 year old niece acts better than this.

...everybody, just chill. Like seriously. :)

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it worked. here they come look out....

these are the bolts/holes that hold the steering box & idler arm.
i ordered a RHD idler arm from the UK last week, its for the next generation mkIII L200, but the bolt pattern looks
very close to the mkII L200/max. its taking its sweet time to get here unfortunatley, soon as it does
and i can verify the pattern is the same or close enough to mod, ill order the box and get that coming.
i fear to see the shipping quote on that, the new idler arm cost $40, shipping (slow shipping was $50)
funny enuff, the corner lights i ordered are coming from Lithuania, and are already in Queens NY, i think i ordered them
the same day or the next day. regardless u'd think itd take longer to get from northern european continent than
from the British Isles, whatever IDK.
Attachment 21945Attachment 21946Attachment 21947Attachment 21948

got some progress made on the interiour. pulled the dash, a/c unit, blower motor, and heater box.
now i can start replicating brackets to move the column and pedal cluster assembly to the right side.
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you can see the spots the brake master (B) and clutch masters (C) go on the firewall.
Attachment 21957
theres an entire panel spot welded onto the firewall that has the pedal cluster studs welded to it
its welded on the bay side so the studs stick thru into the cab to catch the pedals, the brake booster
studs are also on or thru this panel, its to re-inforce the firewall and make locating the pedals quick in
assembly at the plant. im sure theres a LHD & RHD panel as they are stamped w ridges & such, so i cant
quite flip it over, ill hafta cut out a mirror image from some 1/8" sheet and spot weld that to the right
firewall. you can see it in these pics, around the booster and near that diagonal groove in the firewall
Attachment 21958

i have to do all this in somewhat stealth. I live w my father here in our shop, and he thinks RHD is
"F'in stupid" and that "youve got enough trouble driving on the left hand side thats the last thing you need"
and ive gotta keep this thing drivable to move in and out of the way. this is our residential shop and not the buisness
shop, so its not busy, but its still gotta stay mobile. so ive got to get everything ready to go and swap the pedals
& steering over in one evening. shud go quicky once everything is ready to go and the brackets are all ready to bolt
everything up. if that damn idler arm would get here id order the box and get this shit done!!! dagnabbit.

oh, the grille shud be here tomarra, and once i can get this next door to the welder ill finish fixing the nose
get it straight & work out the fenders to take the monty bezels/corners. im fabbing the lower front valance thing
that crosses underneath the headlites & grille myself.
https://cs.copart.com/v1/AUTH_svc.pd...d1893430a4.JPG
the monty hoods are more pronounced forward where the grille
meets it, the max hood doesnt push forward its flatter there. ill post pics of the rad support & lower crossmember i end up
making up to replace the smashed up parts, itll have mounts for the new grille and valance.
this is kinda what its gonna look like:
https://www.rockcrawler.de/gallery/u...3-07af5dd2.jpg

jesus the size of that pic my bad...
https://www.rockcrawler.de/gallery/u...16d89-tiny.jpg

This is gonna be cool

too bad the truck is red. i really dont care for red.....

i forgot the badness i found. gonna pull the bed to fix the frame, the floor shouldnt be aweful.... still what a bummer.
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What size is the workshop you are working in? I want to build one in a couple years and that looks about the right size for me.

its pretty big. its 4300 sq ft including the offices (x3) two of which are now bedrooms.
theres x2 bathrooms, a small w sink & toilette, then a bigger bath prolly 8ft x 16ft had a long 3 person sink
and 1 toilette w/ a partition & door, now it has a shower stall, deep shop sink, stack washer/dryer & the same toilette w/ a partition & door.
my father & myself each have a bedroom, but the open shop space we split with another guy who basically just stores vehicles
thats who's white dodge & older green van & that older pickup, beetle, & newer cadillac are. the line is right at the lift.
my monty max is on his side right now, behind the shooter spot is our side of the shop....
if you want some tour pics i can PM you some. LMK

i got my grille & corner lights today, imma go tape them on w/ clear packing tape to snap some
vanity pics real quick. ill post some shortly.

Wish that friggin Idler arm would hurry its stuck-up british ass on up an arrive. i wanna order the steering box asap.
i realized last nite that because 1 of my brakelines is popped, and the parking brake works, that i can pull the
brake master & booster off the firewall and move it over while im waiting for the steering bits... so when it finally
does arrive ill have evrything ready to go and shouldnt take but an hour or 2 to finish, save the P/S lines
which i mite make myself but if i have any sense ill have them sent along with the RHD box.
pics shortly, just found my packing tape. heheheh

its a rough fit, it appears the overall width of the grille & bezels is a bit wider than
the max nose, so imma hafta do some trimming, probly to the bezels as they are available
new still and the grilles are not, so ill probly leave that alone and mod the bezels instead.
Attachment 21966Attachment 21967Attachment 21968
imma tryin get the brake lines out so i can pull the booster off...