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Thread: 1990 Max 4X4 Build

  1. #1

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    1990 Max 4X4 Build

    Just chiming in. Looking to purchase this truck this weekend. Never knew Mitsu made a MM with the 6g72. I have some fun plans for this build. Being that I own a couple TT 3S's I may go TT, or just 6g74/6g75 it. Not sure yet as I don't know how strong these trans are.

    Plan on making a build thread here soon. I'm amazed at how simple these trucks are and how light they are. Might even look in to auto x if they are solid enough.

    I would like to thank you all though for a being a civil forum and having quite a wealth of information. Spent the last week scouring your site. Very nice!

    I do have one question though as i prepare to purchase this truck. What recommendations do you have for me as I go to inspect it?

    Thanks

  2. #2

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    Paxton made a centrifugal supercharger kit for these engines, specifically for this application.

    No real problem areas other than ECUs with blown capacitors on the early 90s FI trucks, but that's coming from the 2WD side, 4WD could be a different story. Look and listen for the usual stuff, leaks and squeaks. These trucks can take heaps of abuse or years of neglect if they're left to rot in a field somewhere and usually they'll bounce back to nearly as good as new with a thorough cleaning, new gaskets, fluids and a routine tune up. Pretty much anything that needs fixing can be repaired, replaced with new or scrounged up in the junkyard. The only really expensive thing I can think of is a leaking power steering gear -- that's about $250-$300 to re-manufacture.
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  3. #3

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    Good to know about the ecu. 1st gen 3S's are the same. I'll be pulling the ecu, wiring harness eventually for a montero unit. I'll keep an eye out for PS leaks too.

  4. #4



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    Here is a little info on the MM for you

    aka L200
    Production 1987-1995
    Class Compact Pickup
    Body Style 2-door, 2-seat Pickup
    Length 177.2 in
    Width 65.2 in
    Height 58.3 in
    Wheelbase 105.1 in
    Weight 2600-3000 lb
    Transmission 4-Speed Manual, RWD/4WD
    5-Speed Manual RWD/4WD
    3-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
    4-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
    Engine 2.0L (122 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
    2.4L (144 cid) I4 (1990-1995)
    2.6L (156 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
    3.0L (181 cid) V6 (1990-1993)
    Power 90 hp @ N/A rpm
    N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm

    150 hp @ N/A rpm
    N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm
    Similar Dodge Ram 50
    Dodge Dakota

    Click image for larger version. 

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    6G72

    Strange but cool looking, they look kind of like 2 4 cylinder motors mated together.

  5. #5

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    We got one generation of these trucks with the 6G72 in 2wd - MK Triton. The gearboxes in these are becoming popular for transplants but getting one cheap isn't happening - about a grand depending on who and where...

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    Here is a little info on the MM for you

    aka L200
    Production 1987-1995
    Class Compact Pickup
    Body Style 2-door, 2-seat Pickup
    Length 177.2 in
    Width 65.2 in
    Height 58.3 in
    Wheelbase 105.1 in
    Weight 2600-3000 lb
    Transmission 4-Speed Manual, RWD/4WD
    5-Speed Manual RWD/4WD
    3-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
    4-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
    Engine 2.0L (122 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
    2.4L (144 cid) I4 (1990-1995)
    2.6L (156 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
    3.0L (181 cid) V6 (1990-1993)
    Power 90 hp @ N/A rpm
    N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm

    150 hp @ N/A rpm
    N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm
    Similar Dodge Ram 50
    Dodge Dakota

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	solidtensioner[1].jpg 
Views:	760 
Size:	353.7 KB 
ID:	14891
    6G72

    Strange but cool looking, they look kind of like 2 4 cylinder motors mated together.
    Thanks for the info. Can't believe these only max out at 3,000 lbs. Tha is less than a MX8 and just a tad heavier than an s2000. Also seems a bit odd they cut off the 6g72 after 94. Would have thought it lasted through its last year.

    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    We got one generation of these trucks with the 6G72 in 2wd - MK Triton. The gearboxes in these are becoming popular for transplants but getting one cheap isn't happening - about a grand depending on who and where...
    Yea sounds like it. Nothing in the states correct? Can one use the newer montero casing but mess with the internal gears? What would be the max torque my current trans could sustain?

  7. #7

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    Hmm wrote you all back, but somehow its into admin for approval to post...

  8. #8

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    Tech questions

    1) I have the V5MT1 trans. What is the power/torque limitations of this trans?
    2) my front diff is an 8". does that mean I can swap out with 4 contracts MM rear diffs?
    3) sounds like my 9" rear gears are interchange with ford 9". Is this true? Also I know that the second gen monteros have a higher pinion and not swappable but are their limited slip diffs still interchangeable with mine?

    Thanks for for the help.

  9. #9

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    Figured I should update with pics. Bought it last week in CA along with another car on the same day another state away. Talk about a crazy day. Little frost from the cold.



    Nice little 3.0L in there.




    Interior is quite nice too with very few issues. Already want one of those sport clusters though.



    Now for the other car. Picked up a 95' Montero SR with 156k miles and a seized motor. Managed to get a breaker bar on it and it turns, but its tight. Might try to lube up the upper end and give it a whirl. For now the started cannot get it to budge.



    Here is the 6g74 in all its glory. Not sure if its common knowledge, but these SR blocks are sought after in the 3s world. That is due to the oil pump being on the passenger side just like the 72 3s and having all the lower block accessories, pan, etc match up the same. All the other US exported 74 blocks are different and have the pump on the drivers side.


    May just decide to swap it straight over if i can get it to run, or might get another 74 motor and transplant. I don't think there will be an issue with the drivers side oil pump. May have to double check pan clearance though. Thoughts?

  10. #10

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    I don't know if the RWD V6 transmissions were available to you guys in the states but I'd take an educated guess and say no. It would've been considered pretty low spec for a light commercial vehicle and consequently overlooked as an option. Your Montero was sold here in Oz under the model name 'Pajero' (if you wanna laugh look up why they weren't given this name when they were sold in Spain ) The V6 engine screams 'sleeper' and I'd bet it would only take some adjustment on the exhaust cams to turn it into a rpm happy brute.

  11. #11

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    There was exactly one RWD 5 speed out of a Hyundai/Kia SUV produced for a few years that would hook up to a 6G7x. I think OldColt discovered the compatibility on http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com/index.php

    Another affordable sleeper is the Hyundai V8 out of their top of the line sedan and sports coupe. It's their state of the art Tau engine. Lightweight, all aluminum, fuel efficient and powerful. The specs on this thing are crazy. And cheap used! No one knows about these things yet. OriginalOwner on this board suggested it as a swap candidate.
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  12. #12

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    Would that V8 bolt up to our V6 trans?

  13. #13

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    I don't know. There's a lot of weird compatibility between Hyundai and Mitsubishi and you can always ask Bill Hichner to made an adapter to fit virtually any engine to any transmission. https://www.facebook.com/bill.hincher
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  14. #14

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    That would be great. Hows his pricing?

  15. #15

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    This is probably the worse year of EFI Mighty Max to own, The distributor is particular to this year alone. and the ECU (MD162826) is also only compatible with this year truck and not transferable to any other year Max. I would send the ECU out for maintenance immediately (caps replacement) before risk frying from a bad IAC motor. Also replace this part AIC with a new one: http://www.ninjaperformance.com/mits...c-p-21601.html

    http://www.avproecm.com/

    I cant stress how important it is for you to do these two things to keep this EFI truck healthy.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodApollo View Post
    This is probably the worse year of EFI Mighty Max to own, The distributor is particular to this year alone. and the ECU (MD162826) is also only compatible with this year truck and not transferable to any other year Max. I would send the ECU out for maintenance immediately (caps replacement) before risk frying from a bad IAC motor. Also replace this part AIC with a new one: http://www.ninjaperformance.com/mits...c-p-21601.html

    http://www.avproecm.com/

    I cant stress how important it is for you to do these two things to keep this EFI truck healthy.
    Appreciate the response. I agree that the IAC will eventually blow the ECU. Ive done the swap on my 3S's as well. Had one Cap blow on my 92 TT and created all sorts of hell. I have a couple of the updated (black) ones lying around, so Ill be sure to swap it. Also I must note that there were a couple variations of the newer IAC's installing the wrong one can fry your ECU.

    Ultimately I will be pulling the ECU as well as the wiring harness and updating it with either a TT harness, or a 98 Montero one. This will allow for me to upgrade the marginal performance of the early 90's electronics to that of the later era. Will also allow for me to tune my truck.

  17. #17

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    Went to the local premium yard and managed to find some goodies out of an 88 MM.

    Sport Cluster. Top plastic is smashed as the owner went into it when he crashed. Anyone know where i can find a new plastic face?




    I also got my hands on a receiver. Tried to find them online, but nothing ever came up. Not sure if Class I or II as there is no writing on it. Any ideas?


  18. #18

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    You can disassemble the plastic instrument cover from the bezel and then swap it onto your sport cluster but you have to be careful. Take out the small anchor screws, remove it from the cluster and immerse the assembly in hot water. Then gently pry the clear cover from the bezel using a wide thin blade (the 2 different types of plastic expand at different rates and the hot water helps make the adhesive brittle). If you choose to glue it back down don't use superglue/crazy glue as it'll attack the clear plastic and leave vapour trails all over it. I know you're going to have an issue with the odometer reset being in a different location but you can drill a new hole and plug the old one. Otherwise you're chasing another sport cluster...

  19. #19

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    Yea, im hoping I can find another cluster that is in good shape, so I dont have to make a mess of mine. As you stated the only difference is in the location of the reset button.

    BTW what is the switch that is located on the bottom of the cluster? Both of mine have them.

  20. #20

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    Is that the mysterious service reset switch I hear about? I did a McGoogle for info but got zippo. This is where you get a flood of responses on the aforementioned switch and it's apparent function/purpose lol

  21. #21

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    Lol, I hope it has a purpose.

  22. #22



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    that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1
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  23. #23



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    None of that is necessary to remove the gauge cluster clear cover on a 2nd gen. You just remove the 4 screws and it pops right off.
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  24. #24

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    Oh, so CEL reset? Nice but weird.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1
    Good for a headlight (?) not for an instrument bezel. The glue used on headlights are a urethane based adhesive. Heating the instrument bezel in an oven will cause the plastic to shrink - then game over. Taking a look at this instrument panel I can see why water immersion isn't a good idea as the main instruments have their dial needles forward of the bezel (I didn't really look at it before) I've stripped plenty of instrument panels and restored them. Depending on how mental the guy on the assembly line went with the glue it can be anywhere between 'pop, off it comes' to 'craaaaack - you sunuvabiatch...' Admittedly I haven't pulled down a 2nd gen instrument cluster and you may very well be lucky they haven't glued them together.

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