Weber install questions 2.0 G63B

Ive searched around, but am not having any luck. The weber instructions leave something to be desired.

Ive got the old carb off, I think ive read enough to understand that ALL the vacuum lines go away with the exception of the Distributor advance line.

With that being said, what about the vacuum lines that are going into the intake manifold? Pictures show what Im talking about as best as I could get them.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...pse7qhdsgh.jpg
(this is in the middle of the manifold)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psbhx36ekg.jpg
(This is below the distributor towards the front of the engine)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psazxzcn2k.jpg
(This is on the manifold towards the firewall.)

If it all needs to be plugged , how would I do that since some of the are attached in groups and not individual vacuum hoses.

Im trying to take as many pictures as I can since there seems to be a lack of them for the installation part, that is unless Ive missed them.

Let's see what you got - the vacuum barbs that you have indicated at the front and rear of the inlet manifold are thermal switches. These gadgets themselves do not have any vacuum from inside the manifold but act like thermostats. Disconnecting them will not result in any vacuum leaks. The beauty of using a Weber is the deletion of all of these pollution/emissions control mechanisms and the related vacuum lines that go with them. Does the Weber have a vacuum barb on it for distributor advance? If it does I would remove the vacuum barb Christmas tree and install a grub screw/bung in the hole to tidy it up instead of trying to block off all the individual vac ports.

+1 to Geezer but keep that thermo switch with the two green plastic prongs in the spare parts drawer -- those break all the time, are surprisingly expensive to replace and a fellow member on this board may need one.

Thanks !!! Guess I need to track down a proper plug for these and keep everything just in case

Ok I spent a couple hours at the various parts stores and home depot looking for the necessary bolts to plug above mentioned holes......without success

Im pretty sure the 2 "thermo switches" are M16 x 1.25 but I cant find anything in that thread pitch/size to test my theory.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ps3mba08o1.jpg
Yes I broke one of the barbs ...sorry Noahwins it was way too brittle to save.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...pshq1ey2oh.jpg

The middle christmas tree vacuum thing I thought was M10 x 1.0, but when I bought said bolt for a plug it wouldnt thread, so maybe its 1.25 pitch instead. Ill have to test it out later.


I did pick up some aluminum sheeting to use for the block off plates for the EGR and the Mechanical fuel pump.

With that being said is there anything I need to do to properly block off the fuel pump? Theres a rod coming out of the head, do I need to remove that or leave it in place?

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psr7nd5sir.jpg

Also theres 3 lines running into the mechanical pump...What are they? 1 line from tank to pump, 2 lines from the pump to the carb. (1 is fuel supply and the other is return) Is this correct???????

I was hoping to have most of the little stuff plugged up and ready for the weber to go on before I lost day light, but that didnt happen...such is life.

Yes remove that rod if your going to go with a electric fuel pump .you will need to make a block off plate for where the mechanical fuel pump went .Also they sell assorted v caps/plugs to cap the vaccum lines at auto zone or look on Amazon there not expensive and you will need verious sizes anyways. Also fuel lines are inlet and outlet and return as this shows ,,,,\/

I bought various plugs for the barbs, but would really like to plug them up for a cleaner, leak free install. The rubber plugs will have to do if I cant find anything with the proper thread pitch.

Man this has taken a lot longer than I anticipated, but I want to do it right and not re visit this install because I cut some corners.

You know what they say - a short cut is the longest distance between 2 points. Try using plumbers fittings for thread matching - might be gas, not sure. Be warned. When it comes to Mitsubishi and non bolt threaded holes they are cruel b*stards. They have been known to use BSPT threads which are tapered.

Did you take those parts with you to the store, most parts store will have thread count, size, pitch indexes.

^ yes I took everything with me to the stores. After geezer mentioned the BSPT thread info I noticed that one of them definitely looks tapered so more than likely the other 2 are as well.

Im going to go by a dedicated fastener/nuts/bolts store and see what I can get.

So I have given up trying to find the correct thread pitch plugs for these holes and will have to settle with rubber capped barbs.

Im sure that you could re thread the holes, but thats more than I want to attempt at this time.

So I will push forward without my plugs.

It's BSPT. Japanese cars use it for water lines. BSPT is very close to NPT but doesn't quite fit. You can order BSPT set screws and plugs off eBay or McMaster-Carr type outlets.

They should be cheep cheep. A couple of bucks worse case scenario. It's one of those little jobs you can do anytime. The manifold will look nice and clean when you get around to it. Good luck with the Weber install unc25! :)

Couldnt find the bolts needed for the plugs, so i gave in and put the original ones back in. I started looking for the fuel pump location and hose routing and got the EGR and fuel pump block off plates completed.

One last question....theres a coolant line thats supposed to have a plug put into it from the Weber kit.....Im assuming its the line at the back of the manifold off a T that went into old carb. Ive marked the hose with the Blue dot and circled the general area of the hose in Red.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psr7byacdo.jpg

Yes you need to plug that line - did you plug the port in the manifold that went to the carb? It is under the carb and you tap the hole and screw in an Allen set screw with pipe dope to prevent coolant leaks under the carb adaptor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Yes you need to plug that line - did you plug the port in the manifold that went to the carb? It is under the carb and you tap the hole and screw in an Allen set screw with pipe dope to prevent coolant leaks under the carb adaptor.

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You can do this no problemo. Buy a cheap ass metric tap set with an M8 tap in the kit and find some small files. The cheap thread taps have metal burrs all the way down the cutting threads - run a small file through every cutting thread and it will make into a decent enough thread tapping tool (if you don't file the burrs off it will shred anything you try to tap a thread into and the bolts going into your newly tapped holes will feel sloppy - if you can even get the bolts to bite...) Then use the M8 tap on the coolant gallery you want to block off as it is exactly the same diameter as the carb mounting stud holes. Buy a bottle of thread locker and a pack of assorted metric grub screws and seal the deal!

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psh9zn1qms.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psdowqkmja.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psiu2qoqmi.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...pslye1zwy4.jpg

following this one

Penny and Geezer, thanks for this info. I re-read through install instructions last night and saw no mention of this, but I think its a great idea.

Im still struggling with fuel pump mounting location and will need to add this to the To-Do list.

Ive got pictures and hopefully will be able to scan and link pics with some of the Weber instructions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maxdsm

Yes remove that rod if your going to go with a electric fuel pump .you will need to make a block off plate for where the mechanical fuel pump went .Also they sell assorted v caps/plugs to cap the vaccum lines at auto zone or look on Amazon there not expensive and you will need verious sizes anyways. Also fuel lines are inlet and outlet and return as this shows ,,,,\/

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http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...1&d=1447632024

Only just noticed this and this is important. In the image where it shows "fuel return to tank" is incorrect. That fuel outlet should go to the accelerator enrichment pump assembly on the side of the Mikuni carb (top fuel inlet barb on the pump housing - the square gadget with 2 parallel fuel barbs on it). The fuel return line then connects to the bottom outlet on the enrichment pump assembly. If anyone was to attempt to connect up a stock carb from that diagram it would cause them no end of grief. :thumbup:

Geezer..So that is incorrect for installing a Weber as op is ???? That is what I have followed that I believe brad posted when installing his Weber at least this is what I followed. Could you possibly draw a corrected fuel pump diagram to Weber for us much appreciated.

Take note that my post was in regards to a stock Mikuni install. That image configuration for a Weber is 'correct' (bearing in mind the fuel pressure issue that goes with using a Weber) I'm having some issues of my own with the Weber carb I pulled from a wrecked Lancia Beta. I've solved the fuel bowl vent connection but there's some sort of accelerator/vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the throttle linkage. Got me stumped how to rig it up (or even how it works) but I've got a feeling I'll need it when the A/C is operational...

So with all this talk of fuel lines , etc.......since I'm doing an electric pump and the carb has a block off for the return, should I just leave it go returnless?

What's the benefit of returning the fuel to tank, similar to oem setup?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unc25

So with all this talk of fuel lines , etc.......since I'm doing an electric pump and the carb has a block off for the return, should I just leave it go returnless?

What's the benefit of returning the fuel to tank, similar to oem setup?

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On my truck i do not run a fuel return i capped it off and also running electric pump no fuel reg. either. Now the problem if you hooked it up with no way to restrict it you would not have enough fuel for the carb bowl it would run in then out. Now i thought about this but have not yet done it, But if you did want to hook up a return off the weber i would install a check valve say like a 4.5 psi or even a 5 psi this would ensure enough fuel for carb and any excess would be returned to the tank. Supposedly the benefit is saving fuel by only giving the carb what it needs to operate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Take note that my post was in regards to a stock Mikuni install. That image configuration for a Weber is 'correct' (bearing in mind the fuel pressure issue that goes with using a Weber) I'm having some issues of my own with the Weber carb I pulled from a wrecked Lancia Beta. I've solved the fuel bowl vent connection but there's some sort of accelerator/vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the throttle linkage. Got me stumped how to rig it up (or even how it works) but I've got a feeling I'll need it when the A/C is operational...

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Got it . Thought you were talking about fuel pump install on the Weber. I stand corrected.thanks for the reply.

Got the fuel pump mounted up but still not Weber mounted. See my "build" post.

Maybe next weekend.... I need to get the M8 tap and grub screw though before I do it. If I dont I know Ill regret not taking this extra step.