4G63 Swap Verification

I have done extensive research on the 4g63 head swap onto the 4g64. However, there is only one thing left I still have questions on.

I have read conflicting posts about how you do or do not have to swap pistons from the 2g 4g64 to have valve reliefs for the 2g 4g63 heads.

I have to do head gaskets anyways, and I'm in no hurry to get the truck on the road besides passing inspection, so I figured I would go ahead and do it. I plan to turbo it later on, and a replacement, nice cam for a SOHC seems to be more expensive for smaller power than I want to endeavor into.

I have couple 4g64 8 valve reground cams if you interested

Interesting. Were they ground back to stock spec, or did you get a new duration?

It has a 270 duration,465 lift

What is that compared to stock? And your asking price?
For the right price, a cam with some decent overlap and/or duration over stock I wouldn't be sacred to try and push 10+psi, even if I send the rods to Valhalla.
I looked on RPW, and couldn't find any valve spring upgrades for the 8V. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough.

I haven't been able to find the information on the stock cam profile for these engines anywhere, so I'm not sure how much of a difference one would really be right off the bat.

I found one spec, and that is the valve timing off the stock cam. No duration or lift values yet. But the intake opens at 20 degrees and the exhaust closes at 20. So it appears 40 degrees of overlap from OE spec.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-...-/303150665374

these springs should work for you,i have similiar setup on cylinder head im building

a few austarion members swapped out the stock 2.0 for the 2.4. Head flow better. Use the 2.0 mechanical valvetrain
Keep it all 2.4. Compression perfect for street turbo
A few hot starion 2.6 prefer those beehive springs. Verify installed heights same as yours(most likely they are)
Street starions made 400hp on stock mech cam (from caravan, Kcar or truck). 2.0 duration should be similar
I'd just:
1.get a good running 2.4 first
2. decide what u route u gonna go for tuning and install the goodies
then 3. turbocharge. Add the cam lastly as a single mod so u could evaluate its affectiveness

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I have couple 4g64 8 valve reground cams if you interested

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It has a 270 duration,465 lift

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these springs should work for you,i have similiar setup on cylinder head im building

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Mech or hydraulic ? Any feedback on their actual performance ? What company ground em ?

The hydraulic, and haven't tried them out yet,american custom cam did the work

not one of the mainstream label cam services, but the grind quality/control is what matters.
Someone recommended American ? Seen way too many grinders get it wrong(even popular brands), resulting in poor performance

re PM
my 2.4 runs perfect as is. Bought all new timing stuff to freshen. Good time to swap mechanical valvetrain & cam
Plan is to megasquirt/injectors/pump (tune), then turbocharge.... turn it up slowly
Last mod will be cam + valve springs + seals. Most likely on a brand new 2.4 cyl head

In terms of keep everything 2.4, you are saying to keep my 8V SOHC and swap 2.0L valve train onto it? Or should the 16V flow better? I assume it would, but I dont know much on these motors yet. My experience lies more with SBC/LS, SBF, and KA's.

I plan to run a standalone, something like or equivalent to Megasquirt which is what I've always recommended for turning KA's, with bigger inectors, boost-a-pump or new unit.

My 2.4L has low miles, in my eyes, so I was surprised to see the head gasket go (maybe head cracked, tbd).

I'll take the advice though and then figure my cam/upgraded valvetrain out after fitting the turbo/system.

The 16v 2.4 will flow better. But it is still only a SOHC and there are limitations to what you can do to it as far as swapping manifolds etc. You could use a Kia/Hyundai head and do the preferred twin cam upgrade to go turbo. All of the turbo manifolds are cross compatible and I have a feeling the 2.4 Kia Optima intake faces the right way for a RWD application...

boosted SOHC can make excellent street torque, and more power than u can use (responsibly)
A handful of austarion members who have experienced various SOHC 2.0/2.4 setups with the boost cranked up..... all claim DOHC is a waste of time VS, unless chasing big power numbers or track duty(high rpm)

^^^
Always a pleasure reading Your posts dash !! :)

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Originally Posted by dash

The boosted SOHC can make excellent street torque, and more power than u can use (responsibly)

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Originally Posted by claych

with respects , & the SOHC 16 valve is an 'interference ' design

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I fell the same way about the sohc making power,
That why I had a cylinder head ported and polished with oversize stainless steel valves, springs,chromemoly retainers,and the cam Attachment 23733

Nice port work :thumbup: Taking some metal off the valve guide shrouds on the intake side definitely helps improve flow - you do the work or did you get a shop to handle it?

Rahtid
Could I impose for pics of the exhaust port work ?
Thank You.
Further, there is a huge amount of info in those pics :).
With permission__
The surface pattern on the head was created by an rotary broach ?

So from this information I beleive I have made a decision.

I plan to drive the truck on the street. My goal HP, eventually, would be around 300-350whp.

I'm going to keep the 8V SOHC and mate it with the 2.0L valvetrain as suggested. I will be purchasing a T3/T4, and making my own turbo manifold/charge piping. I will be using Megasquirt for my ECU. I just haven't decided to run fuel only or just bite the bullet for a nicer dist, or ign. coil swap it.

I will get with my local machine shop with my 8V head to look into a port and polish. Any recommendations on what works well with this combo?

Also, as far as the MAF, I'm not quite sure what the stock ones will be able to handle once the "choo-choo-choo-choo-choo!" maker starts pumping some psi.

After all is setup, I'm not rich, so tax time is my go to for the ecu and misc., then I will start looking into where I am, how I like the numbers, and what to do from there as far as cam, upgraded springs, and head.

That head looks line prestine work by the way!

Image #7 is exhaust ports. Looks like the port walls have been smoothed out and the guide shroud has been ground back but the overall port size hasn't been tampered with. You didn't opt to seal up the EGR gallery through the head from #4 exhaust port?

I'd only diy mild cleanup if u port. Really no need if boosting. Starion 2.6 sohc does low 9s with untouched head
I plan on custom manifold with t3/t4 60-1... a proven low boost SOHC killer performer on 2.3 ford and starion 2.6

Stock 2.4 distributor same as a DSM cam angle sensor. Can configure ecu to run coil pack if u like. No more MAF


Shortly after I'd mod the stock intake plenum to bigger/front facing. Swiped a few pix of austarion over the years on my pc


I mentioned a time or two, I'm going with our starion clubmember megasquirt. Reasonable cost. Knows/owns/tunes the turbo sohc
Many TBI & MPI starquests successfully launched off his platform. What could be better ?


Add a (good)cam/springs later, then a custom shorter runner, bigger plenum custom intake if impressed
On a good tune, I'm sure it'll fry the tires 1st three gears


here is a beast of a sample. 300hp atw @11psi only!!! Over the top build tho. No need to get that seriou$$$
http://www.sigma-galant.com/forum/vi...t=anchor+sigma

He killed it with the adjustable cam gear and not running pistons with fly cut reliefs machined into them. One night of running it at 340rwhp - boom, no more valve train. To be honest the turbo manifold was nasty too. Those Sigmas never came with injected turbo engines from factory and I'd almost be wondering if it actually was a G63B 2.0 as a lot of 1.8 Cordia turbo engines were used for transplants. One model of Sigma did come with a unique 4G52 draw through turbo that really hauled ass from factory.

*I just logged back on to S-G.com for the first time in years. Apparently the original site is so broken that most of the archives and posts are missing. I still have admin privileges :rolleyes:

i think he got that 2.4 from 'oldie' on austarion. The 2.4 Staz ripped. Tuning mishap wiped it out
Several fast sohc 2.4 stazs. '4g64b' was also ~340hp, gt30(/40 hybrid) @15psi only
Stock pistons! and a much simpler build. Sorta what I'm chasing

A few fast mpi 2.0 sohc staz @20-30psi also
http://www.beyondthelimit.com.au/sca/members/index.htm
used to featue some excellent specimens/articles. Can't find the info now. Coltspeed had some as well
one ran 10sec 1/4s, and was a circuit car not even set up for drag. SOHC can perform

All this machine work was done by a machine shop in the orlando area called C.W. Pence, Here are better pictures of the exhaust port, I blocked the egr in the intake manifold, since I was trying different plenum ideas, ATTACH=CONFIG]23745[/ATTACH]

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...3&d=1575645075

'Flat Crankshaft' Mitsubishi firing order -1-3-4-2,
#1 intake runner, short, more for High Rpm torque.
#3 intake runner, long , more for Low speed Rpm torque.
#4 intake runner ,long, more for Low speed Rpm torque.
#2 runner, short, more for High Rpm torque.

Humble Respects Sir,

Thanks I will working on the block next,I have a parts truck get the spare engine,if you need any parts let me know

Plenum + intake is from a Galant?

The plenum is from the galant,the lower is from the truck

I may be getting a 2.0L valvetrain sooner than I thought. Looks like the rocker arm pedestal is cracked right at the cam gear. Going to upload a picture. I'm going to put it all back together, and just send it until I find one. Head gasket was blown at a coolant port, so atleast the head looks good.

I like that intake setup. I'm definitely going to have to run that myself. While I was splitting mine apart I couldn't help but think, "This wont be factory long."
I dont see how they breathe.

Low9
LOL they dont breathe , that is what makes this hybrid setup so cool !
The t/body inside diameter on My '94 is (drum roll) aprox 54mm :lmao::lmao:

Rahtid,
Speaking of t/bodys is that one from a Galant ??
Thx!

Attachment 23761

Should I be really concerned about this? Never seen one crack here before.

I don't think they're cracks, more likely expansion lines from when it was cast. These are only cosmetic and you'll see them on the thinner cast alloy parts.

Good to know! I did find a small knick about a 1/4" long and a little deep in cylinder 3 between half way to 3/4s the way up the cylinder wall. It isnt enough to say it is a chip. Quite unusual. I'm not worried too much about it, as the engine was running well even with a head gasket issue aside from cold starting.

The question is how well it will hold up to boost. Either way I'll have a spare complete engine on standby before I hit it with a razzle dazzle engine tassle.

Motor turns very easily though. No scoring of other cylinders. And aside from a lot of carbon build up, it was surprisingly clean.

Ordering a timing kit, as the belt looked factory, then putting it back together.

Any idea what all parts interchange from other year 2.4L SOHC? It is hard to get anything to pull up for just a 95 mighty max. I may start a new thread to discuss any and all interchangeable parts for both SOHC and DOHC versions of this engine for someone else who may need the information.

By all parts, I'm currently referring to the timing kit for now. As it isn't very easy for me to find a complete kit by my year model 4G64.

The throttlebody is a 70mm for
Mitsubishi evo 1-2-3https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F202712220135

Let me know what parts you looking for
A lot of parts interchange from over models and makes
Here is a timing belt that includes cam crank sealhttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F392397662765

This will work on the 4G64 - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post29172

I would go through and read a few of the posts on that thread just for the info. It has helpful insight from members that have done the delete and cuts through all of the mumbo jumbo.

Attachment 23763 Attachment 23764
What about this kit here? Amazon says it will not fit, but I'm not aware of any differences, and the pump looks exactly the same.

Difference I see is 16V vs 8V. Still being SOHC though, is the game gear just not the same?

*cam gear

That's the wrong kit

I figured. Just wasn't 100% if they are interchangeable. I'm trying to find one with a water pump included, as it is usually cheaper, but may just have to order the kit and pump separately. Getting more and more eager to toss some boost at it the more I browse through parts, but I'm trying to replace everything that is a basic normal wear part while I reassemble.

Been a while since I've had a street truck. I pretty much melted the 383 years ago bouncing off the limiter for 30 solid minutes, as the younger version of me was far less wiser.