'91 Triton (MightyMax)

Hi There,
New here, but thought I'd get a start on a build thread for my ute.
Its a 1991 Triton/MightyMax 5 speed 2.6 tray top.
I am a Design and Tech High school teacher and I take the ute in to work on fridays and work on it with some of my students during our club time every friday arvo.
Started life as a government vehicle for a rural hospital so it didn't see much use and was well cared for. How many people owned it from there I don't know, but at least 2.
The previous owner who did some of the initial work to the ute was a bit sloppy and most of the work I've done so far is just redoing his wiring etc.

Work done by the previous owner:
the wheels and tires
tray top swap for towing dirtbikes
"sports" exhaust aka muffler delete and high flow rear muffler
4-2-1 headers
shaved and recon head for higher compression
LPG duel fuel set up
retrimmed bench seat in black leather
sports steering wheel (Made driving the manual steering painful)
new stereo and speakers

I have since:
rewired the stereo
actually cleaned the car (the last owner bought it as described above and couldn't drive it with the little wheel so it sat for a year before I bought it from him)
new air filter
instrument cluster swap for tacho
"modified" junkyard tray sides because it had none
power steering install
removal of the worlds most janky killswitch
3D printed gauge cluster that fits in stereo location
and likely a bunch of other small things I forget

Next on the list is fixing more things done by the previous owners, lowering, handling, dedicated LPG setup and an oversized supercharger!! yay
Maybe bigger wheels, the current ones seem like they are a bit smaller than stock (205/65r15)

So here she is, more photos to come, its been raining a heap recently so I have not been able to do much work.
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5DB5A42E
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DEED7EB
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5DA75B98
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...15&oe=5DA75C69

One of my students wanted to learn how to fit a catch can, so I bought a cheap one and he designed and made a bracket to bolt on where the power steering reservoir normally goes
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...33&oe=5DAE4CA9

Gauge cluster CAD files and prototypes
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5DB3B56F
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...97&oe=5DA1F3DA
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7f&oe=5DA101D7

I've been working on a dedicated LPG intake that can be removed and reinstalled easily (and eliminates the Mikuni piece of shit) for mocking up etc with the supercharger install. I am hoping to keep this on the road the whole time through the build as I use it often and the kids love it when I bring it to school.
I am using a throttle body off of a dedicated LPG commodore v6 which I believe for you USA folks is referred to as the buick 3800 v6. This might also give a hint to the way too big supercharger I hope to install, but more on that later
https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php..._x=_TTwUilvIQH
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DA670F6
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...86&oe=5DA8E54A
bottom half of an adapter plate to mount to the original intake manifold, made on the CNC at work
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DE13E90
Top Half modeled in CAD
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5DB082AF

Here is a sneak peek at the supercharger drive pulley test fit on the crank, poor photo as it is what I used to see the bolts with the radiator still installed
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ef&oe=5DB13CFB
https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5DE3E531

Thats it for now, more to come as I find time to get work done

Cheers
Alec.

So today I re-modeled the gauge cluster I designed to fit in the Mighty max dash. Because the wideband I ordered has a much deeper bezel than other 52mm gauges it stuck out way to far for my liking.
The new piece has a sunken area for the gauge and is 5mm thicker on the front to try and level things out a bit.
Ignore the RPM gauge, thats just a old busted gauge for test fits etc
Here is the original 3D printed cluster with the wideband sticking out too far
Attachment 22994
New cluster
Attachment 22995
Here is the new Vs old cluster
Attachment 22996
New set up all ready for some primer and paint, unless I can get some affordable black ABS filament for the 3D printer and then I'll print a new one and smooth it off with acetone
Attachment 22997

Cheers
Alec

Well this is going to be an interesting project. I have only ever seen one supercharged 2.6 and it was using a tiny supercharger from a Toyota. The guy had to cut into the bonnet for the drive pulley to clear. As for the 3D printed gauge mount - nice. Maybe instead of painting it, use a black vinyl film over it. I've wrapped a bunch of stuff in my Gen 1 cab with cheap 3D carbon fibre film and it has brought the interior up to a more modern appearance. And way to go with keeping your students interested :thumbup: At a guess you are a TAFE lecturer?

Good idea with the vinyl, might give that a go this weekend. Nah, high school, but being the sole tech studies teacher I can basically do what ever I want

SHARP truck AlecBB :thumbup:

I think (?) engines running on LPG put out less power than gasoline powered uns... In my experience, Japan had many taxis on LPG in USA some forklifts ran on LPG... Otherwise I have no more complaints about your COOL truck...

Just noticed that you've got the same gear shift knob as the one I've used in my L200 :) Whoever did the bench retrim knew what they were doing. I'm not a fan of the bench seat though. I'd feel like I was violating the middle passenger every time I did a gear change lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xboxrox

SHARP truck AlecBB :thumbup:

I think (?) engines running on LPG put out less power than gasoline powered uns... In my experience, Japan had many taxis on LPG in USA some forklifts ran on LPG... Otherwise I have no more complaints about your COOL truck...

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Cheers man.
Nah, with a proper tune and on dedicated gas they run just as well as petrol. When on duel fuel it puts out less power because the tune has to be something between what the petrol wants and what the gas wants.
I've had a couple of gas cars before and they worked well when done right.

I agree Geezer, bench seat is nice and I'd rather have buckets but I'm reluctant to get rid of the seat as it's quite nice. I removed the middle seatbelt anyway so I cant have someone sit there.
Yeah the gear shift knob is awesome, last owner got that so I don't know anything about it, except for the fact it wasn't installed correctly and spins.....

So today I installed new spark plug leads as the last ones were cracked. The last ones were routed in front of the rocker cover and got close to the fan so I got plugs and supports for a magna and used those to tidy things up a bit and route them up over the rocker cover.

while working I also realised that it looks like my power steering box is leaking......could be something to do with why it was not self centering. So I'm waiting on a quote to see if I should get it rebuilt or replaced......wooooooo

https://scontent.fadl6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f4&oe=5DA476C6

as I look at this photo the surface rust on those headers and heat shield are really starting to bother me............

Maybe wrap the headers in a thermal bandage. It will look pretty (lol), keep the heat down in the engine bay a little and improve exhaust gas scavenging. A good mod to perform is an electric thermo fan install. It will free up engine bay room, de-govern the engine and improve throttle response, improve engine cooling (you live in Adelaide - I don't need to tell you what peak hour traffic in summer is like :shakehead:) and preserve your water pump bearings. The open air filter is awful, especially on the Mikuni carb (I can feel the love you have for it lol) as its sucking all the hot air from the engine bay which will kill torque and not do much for your fuel economy, but seeming you are planning on ditching it for dedicated LPG and a supercharger you will be able to fit something better in your build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Maybe wrap the headers in a thermal bandage. It will look pretty (lol), keep the heat down in the engine bay a little and improve exhaust gas scavenging. A good mod to perform is an electric thermo fan install. It will free up engine bay room, de-govern the engine and improve throttle response, improve engine cooling (you live in Adelaide - I don't need to tell you what peak hour traffic in summer is like :shakehead:) and preserve your water pump bearings. The open air filter is awful, especially on the Mikuni carb (I can feel the love you have for it lol) as its sucking all the hot air from the engine bay which will kill torque and not do much for your fuel economy, but seeming you are planning on ditching it for dedicated LPG and a supercharger you will be able to fit something better in your build.

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Exhaust wrap is the plan. Already have a junkyard thermo fan and a wiring harness and switch ready to go, just need to find time to install it and make a shroud for the fan.
Yeah the air cleaner was a request from one of my students, considering the original was old, dirty and taking hot air from right beside the headers this cant be too much worse. I prefer how it looks, not sure if it will fit on my new LPG throttle though so it might be gone soon

Cheers

Now that is a nice clean truck, can't wait to see the supercharger setup! I can do turbos all day long, but superchargers are uncharted territory for me and are just downright cool, keep us updated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dancinggecko

Now that is a nice clean truck, can't wait to see the supercharger setup! I can do turbos all day long, but superchargers are uncharted territory for me and are just downright cool, keep us updated!

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Thanks mate. It's all new for me too, half the reason I'm doing it is for the learning and to have something different

So I've finally found time to get more work done on the ute. For the last 6 months life has gotten in the way a bit.
The biggest change will be the new fuel system. I installed a Gas Research Australia throttle body and converter. The adaptor didn't quite fit as it had the throttle body pointing straight forward into the thermostat housing. I cut a pie shape out and welded it back together at work, although it was still close to the radiator hose. To fix this I got a thermostat housing off of a magna which points the hose a little higher up and straighter towards the radiator.
Attachment 24579Attachment 24580
Speaking of the radiator, that's new too, well new to me. It's an Australian made alloy for a V6 4x4 triton (mighty Max). I got it from a wrecked ute, but because it's for the 4x4 it is taller and I had to space it back towards the engine.
The engine now breathes so much better and pulls way harder than before with the performance LPG system (and a propper tune of course)
The engine bay is also heaps cleaner and is continuing to get cleaned up more, just check out how bad the wiring was before
Attachment 24581
I also did a test fit of the super charger pulley I am getting made up. it will be a long time before that gets made a mounted so for now I think ill get the Paris Dakar cam upgrade to get some better drivability out of the ute. Its already noticeably better than before (it actually revs past 4500 easily now) but I would like to do the swap.
Attachment 24582Attachment 24583
There is more on the way, but until I find more time away from work (which might happen with the COVID-19 stuff) that will have to wait.
Cheers,
Alec.

ignore post :wrench:

Life seems to get in the way of other plans. Nice to see you've made it back though :thumbup: Something has gone wrong with you initial post and the image links are all broken.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Life seems to get in the way of other plans. Nice to see you've made it back though :thumbup: Something has gone wrong with you initial post and the image links are all broken.

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Ah really? Are the images still not working? I can see them on my end

Pictures display perfectly for Me.
With Humble respects :) AlecBB

questions !!!!!!!questions !!!!!!!

1)picture 2 & 3 should be reversed ???
2) picture(s)of the propane tank(s) mounting & certifications.
3)Material for the crankshaft pulley.
4)Paris Dakar camshaft upgrade??? Petrol engine ????

^I'm getting an "image URL expired" error message. I'm not on FB but that shouldn't have any effect on viewing an image.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by claych

Pictures display perfectly for Me.
With Humble respects :) AlecBB

questions !!!!!!!questions !!!!!!!

1)picture 2 & 3 should be reversed ???
2) picture(s)of the propane tank(s) mounting & certifications.
3)Material for the crankshaft pulley.
4)Paris Dakar camshaft upgrade??? Petrol engine ????

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Picture 3 is there under the paragraph that mentions it (that is how the wiring used to look) pic 1 and 2 are the before and after.
I don't have pics of the tank but I can get some if you want them.
It is located under the tray just like the petrol tank but on the driver's side.
The pulley will be aluminium, that test fit was a 3d print.
The Paris Dakar cam profile is what the cam shop calls it, from what I've heard I think it is inspired by the profile used in the Pajero when it raced in the Paris Dakar..... I think? Should be fine with the lpg, I'll have an adjustable cam gear on it.
Cheers
Alec.

Thanks for the reply!!
I have the visual .

So its school holidays over hear, which means I'm off work (sorta) and car stuff can get done!
First up I finally found time to install my drop spindles that I ordered over 6 months ago. This was easier than I thought and the fit is great. I definitely need stiffer springs though, the stock ones are worn, soft and sag about 15mm lower on the drivers side. Running over manhole covers and potholes before the spindle install I would hit the bump stops way too easily. Now I get tire rub if I'm cornering and hit a bump, so I'll roll the fenders and look into springs.

Out with the old
Attachment 24876
In with the new
Attachment 24877

The toe in with the new spindles was shocking, I had to wind both my tie rod ends in all the way to get them close to straight, then tidied it up with an alignment the next day. (I was 1.5mm out just by eye, which Im happy with)
The only regret I have is not painting the spindles before hand.

While I was at it, I also dropped the rear 50mm to keep everything level. I also painted the springs and the inside of the wheels black while I had them off to save time later. Now that the springs are done I want to paint the whole rear end, but thats a job for another day.
Attachment 24878Attachment 24879

The bracket on the back is for an idea I have for mounting a Pajero(monty) front sway bar in the back. I just drilled and tapped a hole 50mm deep for a M12 grade 8 bolt and drowned the sucker in locktight, shouldn't go anywhere.
I did make some other style brackets that were going to bolt on over the axle tube but I didn't like how they were positioning the bar so I went with the simple bracket on the lowering block instead.
Here are the other ones that I didn't end up using
Attachment 24880Attachment 24881

Anyway, more on the sway bar idea when I get to it.
Here she is all washed up and sitting a little lower.
Attachment 24882Attachment 24883Attachment 24884
While I was at it, I detailed both my cars
Attachment 24885

I also went to U-Pull-It and got myself some twin piston calipers from a pajero which I will fit up soon. As well as a Pajero 85Amp alternator which I am going to see if I can make fit on my 4g54. The plugs are the same and I have an idea for how to do the bracket. I chose this one to mess with as I could get the second hand one for dirt cheap and if it works I can order the 100Amp version new for only $97 and it will drop in.
I am going the the effort with the alternator because of the electric pump and radiator fan I will be installing will draw a bit of power. Not to mention the electric assist steering from a toyota prius I hope to mess with.
As you might have noticed in the first pic I also installed Nolathane sway bar end link bushings, I also did the sway bar bushings and the strut rod(caster rod) bushings, boy what a difference a couple bushings made, I cant wait to do the rest of the suspension.
That's all for now,
More to come soon I hope!!!

Cheers
Alec.

How come the toe in went crazy? In theory it shouldn't have made a difference so is the geometry on the drop spindles out? And where will the 'D' bushes be located with the rear bar upgrade?

You're right, in theory the toe in shouldn't have changed but it was way out on the new spindles, so yeah, they must have been made a little off.
The bushes will be on supports coming off the frame, I'll post about it as soon as I get it mocked up

...and now I can see all of the images :shrug: Yeah nice ghetto wiring you were left to deal with. The clutch fan is scary close to the radiator! Pajero calipers are a definite win - you thought about an LSD rear swap?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

...and now I can see all of the images :shrug: Yeah nice ghetto wiring you were left to deal with. The clutch fan is scary close to the radiator! Pajero calipers are a definite win - you thought about an LSD rear swap?

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Yeah I'm not a 'fan' of the radiator fan either :lmao: hence it will be replaced soon with an electric fan and shroud.

I would love an LSD swap! just need to get a few more other mods done first

Howdy all,
Recently I got around to fitting some more front suspension components.
With much swearing and carrying on some new Pedders Sports Rider springs were installed along with some Pedders Gas Sports Rider shocks with urethane bushes and new urethane lower control arm bushes because the old ones were toast and the new set was only $30.
Here is the stock spring compared to the new sports coil
Attachment 24979
Unsprung, the two are not too different in height, maybe 20mm differnece. Turns out this shows in the final ride height, which sucks because I just installed 50mm (2 inch) drop spindles and now I've jumped up 20mm (almost 1 inch). And I really liked the ride height I was at before.
I'll give them a couple of months to settle, see if they drop at all, but I've done 60km in the ute today and see no difference.
If I have time later in the year and it still bugs me I'll take them out again and cut a coil out. Just not looking forward to it as they were a pain to get in, hopefully because they'll be shorter they will be easier.
Attachment 24980
Here is all the goodies put together and off to get a wheel alignment. Will have to clean these up and give them a coat of paint to make that red pop! Again, regretting I didn't take the time to paint parts before installing them, and not taking more photos!
On the upside the old girl drives so much better now, not harsh, but firm and no longer hitting the bumpstops on any small pothole in the road. Stays much flatter around corners too, but I still want more sway bar action. My last car was a 2010 mini cooper and that thing handled like it was on rails, and then I swapped out the sway bars in that too. So now I am (foolishly) trying to get this long heavy thing to feel the same :lmao:

That's it for now, hopefully I can get the alternator bracket sorted in the next week or so and I should also have my new Ice ignition leads and coil come Monday, woo!

Cheers
Alec

Nice. I was given a new pair of lowered King springs with the donor wreck I bought to cannibalise for my L200 and got some dubious Commando foam filled heavy duty shocks to pair them up with. I'm considering pulling them apart and sending the control arms off to get powder coated along with the radius rods and stabiliser bar. I imagine to old front end parts would've made it feel like a meatball on the road lol. The rear bar you're messing with will improve handling a lot. If you're successful, I'm going to give it a shot when I do the read end swap for LSD...

Oh nice, I was looking for king springs first but they said they didn't make them anymore. Would have been keen on lowering the ute with springs, the drop spindles required alot of work to get it all to fit because I wanted to keep my 15's

The white steelies suit your truck. I have 14" steelies off the donor but I'd really want to go up to 17" with low profiles. The Gen 2+ rear axle swap would really alter my rear track width so IDT if I'd be able to pull it off, but with your tray it looks like you'd be able to get it under there. OOC did you finish your gauge cluster mount?

I thought about 16s but I got new tyres for the 15s easy so now I'm stuck with those for a while longer. Plus I like the fatter tyre look.
I have not finished the mount yet, but I did buy some plastic primer on the weekend so that should be cleaned up soon!

Quick update today

Was sick of hearing the massive exhaust leak coming from my headers so I took them out and painted and wrapped them.

Here is the old gasket showing a leak, it had the same leak on two ports on the other side of it
Attachment 25008

Next was the ceramic coating
Attachment 25009

Headers all wrapped nicely, I was very happy with how this went in the end. My first time doing it and I'v always wanted to do this. And thats what this truck is about, trying all the new things I want to try!
Attachment 25010
The wrap was super tight and neat in the end. very happy with it. And you can even noticeably feel the temp difference coming off the headers and I only used the basic fiberglass wrap.
Attachment 25011 Attachment 25012

That's it for now, I did get my gauge cluster mount painted today, just waiting for it to dry.
Also almost done with the alternator upgrade which i can hopefully have done in a week or so if work is quiet enough.
Have't touched the rear sway bar yet, really want to get on that too.
I also got some better spark plug leads and coil from ICE ignition which will help with getting more from my LPG set up. You may notice a custom 3D printed lead bracket that I made in prep for these new 9mm leads.

Cheers,
Alec.

Nice work! The ceramic coating and header wrap is as good as it gets. Headers aren't the easiest thing to wrap either (had 2 goes at mine before I was happy with the result) A budget upgrade - try finding a bigger volume oil filter. More oil + a bigger filtration surface is a bonus for safeguarding an engine ;) You should be able to be a little more aggressive with ignition timing now. Do you have a sports system off the back of your headers and if so, who did it? I asked a local shop for a quote and it was traumatic lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Nice work! The ceramic coating and header wrap is as good as it gets. Headers aren't the easiest thing to wrap either (had 2 goes at mine before I was happy with the result) A budget upgrade - try finding a bigger volume oil filter. More oil + a bigger filtration surface is a bonus for safeguarding an engine ;) You should be able to be a little more aggressive with ignition timing now. Do you have a sports system off the back of your headers and if so, who did it? I asked a local shop for a quote and it was traumatic lol

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I do have a 'sports system' off the back of the headers, but its a frakenstien mess of chopped up exhaust pieces from the last owner.....which I've chopped even more because it was too low/close to the rear axle and was hitting it, and then the one muffler it has was hitting the rear cross member where I want to mount my rear sway bar, so that got extended back 40mm. I also put in a new cat because that was gone too.

I've been planning to do my own system but I had such a hard time doing the mods that I did working on the ground without a hoist, I'm tempted to just pay someone. The last catback system I had made for a car (not including the cat) where I supplied the rear muffler cost me $350, but that was like 8 years ago.

Yeah I used Everlast for 2 of my full stainless steel systems and would be about just as long for me. Last one set me back about $660 from the manifold flange back (hand made glass pack double offset muffler, 2" all the way + a resonator - it was on the edge of being unbearably loud lol).
I got quoted that much just for a cat back system a few days ago from a local mob :shock:Even having off the shelf stuff sent from the US would be cheaper than what these hopefuls are charging :shakehead:

go to advance, get a glasspack or a flowmaster or some off the shelf muffler, some piping, clamps, and a V6 tailpipe if you ever find one, and use all that. thats how i did the exhaust on my 1976 F100.

as for my Power ram, im gonna go no catalytic converters, and im gonna go with a single 2 1/4 exhaust out to a modified factory power ram muffler. thats when i get the v6 swapped in. actually heading over next week hopefully. basically drop the whole front end, pick the body up and roll it back, and disassemble from there.

anyways, i really love the look of the truck. the white is spot on and the paint (looks) is immaculant. really digging that flat bed!

Thanks Salteen, I'm pretty happy with it too at the moment. However you are not too far off with comment about how the paint "looks" good. It's definitely a 10 foot truck, presents really well but it has a whole lot of little blemishes I've worked hard to hide. Next up is to fix the rust on the tray and coat it in either colour matched raptor liner or maybe black. I haven't decided yet.
One day I'd love to repaint it, in its stock colour of course, love the white too.
Wheels will be black soon though ��

you could also do like what i did with my wheels. i painted my dish black and my spokes red on my 15" wagon wheels.

however i will be upgrading to some 20x12 motiv offroad wheels and lifting the truck to accomodate 32" tires. yours is obviously lowered.

these are my wheels. they are spray painted gloss black with a cherry red inside (rustoleum spray can) and they are primered. my wheels are 15x8 or 15x9 and have a LT 235/75/15 M/T Forceum T08 tire on them

they were on my 1982 PR50 long bed i bought for 500 bucks. thats my donor truck i had purchased and pulled the motor out of just to get it on the road, until i found the V6 in the minivan. when i start the swap ill tell the story of that engine and how i came across it.

Attachment 25017

my truck does have a bed i just took it off to remove the fuel tank and modify the exhaust system. it actually has a camper shell too!

Attachment 25025Attachment 25026

Are those headers for a 4g54 2.6l? Where did you get them?

^ebay has headers for them. And that pic of the red Gen 1 4x4 makes me feel depressed :(

i just bought the truck for the motor. i honestly didnt care if it was a 2.0 or a 2.6, but looking back im glad it was a 2.6. imagine a 4x4 with the weak power of the 2.0... yeesh

my header: https://www.jegs.com/i/Pace+Setter/7...MaAvVbEALw_wcB

38 DGES electric choke carbuerator conversion kit: https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/k610-38.htm (what i went with cause i need MO POWAH!!!)

what the 2.0 guys use (32/36 DGEV manual choke): https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/k612.htm

my gasket set: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...oaAlehEALw_wcB

i hope it fits as it doesnt list the 1982 model, and thats what engine i got. 1982 2.6 in a 1987 4x4.

here is a website i was refered to that has pistons, rods, heads, cams, and weber and FI stuff: https://www.racetep.com/automaker/st...omponents.html

Hi Folks,
I have finally got around to painting the gauge cluster I designed and 3D printed to fit in the standard gen 2 Mighty Max DIN stereo position.
Here it is all painted up, the Wideband is the only gauge I have hooked up yet. the other is a dummy for the test fit.
Attachment 25050

This is the gauge cluster before paint
Attachment 25051Attachment 25052

This particular design has a recessed pocket for the AEM wide band gauge as it protrudes further forward than regular gauges.

Here are the 3D models of the two different designs
Wideband....
Attachment 25053Attachment 25054
Vs
Regular
Attachment 25055Attachment 25056

I designed mine to fit into my gen 2 as a friction fit, I will glue/screw it in one day (probably) but it hasn't moved yet and I like being able to have access behind it.

If there is interest in these I will happily print and sell them. I hope to print them in a black ABS, but the white is good because it can be painted any colour you want as long as you use appropriate primer. Don't like seeing the printer lines? easy, either sand it smooth/fill with high build/filler primer, or put into a container with acetone, the fumes will melt the surface smooth. Then paint.

Let me know what you think.

Cheers
Alec

Howdy Folks,

So I got around to fitting and starting to test my idea for a rear sway bar install.

I have used a Pajero front bar and links from a Gen 1 I think. I then Made some brackets that bolted to the rear cross member that holds the spare wheel, using some integrated studs so its easier to install on my own. Made these with some spare material and odds and ends I had lying around. The idea being it uses un modified parts so they can be easily replaced or upgraded with off the shelf parts.
The end links are secured to a bracket I have mounted on my lowering blocks. Just some 50x50 thick wall angle iron.

Here is the mock-up
Attachment 25087

Here are all the parts ready to test
Attachment 25088

This is the first fitment of the set-up
Attachment 25089 Attachment 25090
There are a few things I would like to change, I think I'll move the chassis mount back a tiny bit to straighten the end links and then I'd like to get the spacing right on those with some steel spacers and some new bushes.
I was only able to give it a short test drive around the block a couple of times so Ill have to wait until I go for a bigger drive up in the hills to really see the difference and start tuning it in.

Next I will be trying to do a double sway bar up front, if I can make my ideas work

Cheers

You probably won't need to double up the front bar once the rear bar is set up properly. It should improve turn in response. Maybe the only other thing you could add is heavier duty rear leaf springs. I'm not 100% sure if 4x4 springs would work from a Pajero :shrug:

measure, measure, measure!