1991 monty max 4x4. V6 to 4g swap & RHD. need 4g fit aide

ok. so im new to jap vehicles and new to 4x4's, but not to autos. esp not 80's vw's
audis and bmw's. so im a recovering german car enthusiast.

so ive had this 1991 mighty max for a few years now, bout a year an a half ago i stuffed
the nose into a lift gate of a box truck (dont ask), so its needed a front end for a bit.
Ive always wanted a montero, love the noses. so im putting a monty nose on in place
of the square headlights.

And after digging into the front end w repairs and noticing how simple it would be to swap
the steering over from LHD to Right hand drive (its just a matter of replacing the steering box,
idler arm and tie-rod link rod with the RHD mirror-image units from the UK etc, the entire brake/clutch
pedal assembly moves over to the right side of the firewall. piece of cake.)

so ive got a new RHD idler arm in the post, shud be here next week. thatll tell me if they are
indeed the same bolt pattern and then ill have a steering box and tie rod link shipped over.
i havnt looked into getting a dashboard, its gonna be pricey to ship such a large part, so i might
just make a custom aluminum dash w montero gauges and center console, idk yet...

So, i want to shitcan the crappy V6, ive always preferred 4 cyls. obviously id love to swap in
a turbo 4g, but ive done the turbo thing and im just after a nice reliable modern DOHC 16v.
i was gonna swap in a toyota 2/3RZ after driving one super torquey, then i read the newer 4g64's
are about the same output and it'd be nice to keep it all mitsu. this brings me to my issue;

after reading thru the 4g RWD thread i encountered some forgotten issues.
my plan was to get a 4g outta a 01-05 eclipse and install that with an 87-89 montero
4g transaxle/clutch/starter. heres where i hit the speedbump.
i forgot about the narrow/wide block thing.
-So the big Questions;

-Will a 01-05 eclipse block bolt up to the 87-88 montero 4g bellhousing???
(i believe the montero's/max's ran the narrow block/bellhousing 4g's...)

-Im seeing 3 different FW/crank bolt patterns, 6, 7, and 8 bolt cranks.
i need to know what flywheel is gonna work on the 01-05 eclipse crank
and montero bellhousing??? (if the 4g monty bellhousing doesnt work im going to
make a new bellhousing to fit what i need. i just need a flywheel that'll bolt up to
the newer 4g64 crank and work w a 4WD/RWD setup...)
i was gonna run all 4g montero clutch stuff until i noticed the different crank bolt patts


im sorry for the long read just tryin to explain where im at.if anybody has any tips/info/recommendations
please feel free to school me.
i dont know pic posting yet, but ill tryin get on that asap, we all know w/out pics its not a build......

thanks for any help!
-J.W.

it appears that you live/like a complicated life :) .....but are up to a challenge
Let's see.... you love torque, but don't want turbo.
Well, the Mivec 3.8 V6 will leave all of your 4cyl candidates mentioned in the dust
That swap is documented on the forum, and your particular truck is the ideal recipient
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Max-4X4-Build
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSjp...ature=youtu.be

Looking forward to seeing this one come to life!

JW, here's an easy way to post photos

Click the photo icon at the top of the page:
Attachment 21924


Then this little dialog box pops up, follow these steps:

Attachment 21925
1. click on the "From Computer" tab on the top
2. click on "Choose File" button and select the photo from your computer (try to use horizontal photos, the system will turn vertical photos sideways)
3. click the "Upload File(s)" button- it will turn red, give it a few seconds, your photo will show up

Hope that makes sense

I'm trying to NOT stay 6cyl, unless it was sub-2.8 displacement, and even then I prefer 4cyls....
I'm not after a bunch of torque, the stock 2.4L 16v output is fine w me. I'd rather the better mileage.
Not dead set on no-boost, but I'm not trying to boost off the bat unless I got a bitchin deal on a 4g63t.

Rite now I'm just trying to figure out if the 2001-05 eclipse 4g64 will match an 87-89 monty/max 4x4 bellhousing?
If it will match, what flywheel am I gonna need & what crank bolt count/pattern are they???

I can fab a bell housing w/out much worry, but I'm seeing 6, 7 & 8 bolt flywheels, I are confused.

Thank you for the pic instructions. I'll try in get some posted up soon.

For this to be a successful swap, it needs to be either a 6 or 7 bolt crank (6 bolt = 1G engine/7 bolt = 2G engine) You won't even need to pull them apart to identify them as the 6 bolt engine has a flat sump profile all the way around the base of the block, while the 2G engine has a curved face under the oil pump/crank pulley end of the block. All FWD 4G6X engines are narrow block. The RWD truck 4G64 is a wide block so bear that in mind when planning a swap (using the 5 speed out of a G63B 2.0 truck makes the conversion straight forward) Look up projectzeroG to collect all the info for a RWD engine swap. This is a fantastic resource site to guide you into the dark realm of Mitsubishi power :thumbup:

it's not a given that you'll get better mileage with the 4cyl over the v6. 4 works harder, revs higher.
My very 1st swap was 4cyl to V6.
Same car had noticeably improved economy(est ~15%) with far better driveability (due to torque increase)
Broke the diff immediately & upgraded to bigger, taller ratio (2.92:1 iirc). Same tire diameter
Driveability improved again with fuel economy at least 30% over the 4cyl.... and that's not even trying to granny drive it

Also, better make sure your oem V6 gearing, suits the torque curve whatever 4cyl you choose
Add boost to a 4cyl ?? No comparison. There goes the fuel economy 'theory'. Optimum gear ratio changes once again.


I like your 'anything can fit' spirit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dash

Add boost to a 4cyl ?? No comparison. There goes the fuel economy 'theory'.

---

Not in my experience. Try keeping your foot outta the firewall and off boost ud be surprised, they still behave like a 4 cyl
economy wise. If you cant get it to then you can't restrain yourself enough to stop the spool and blow off sounds ALL the time, or your
tune is too rich off boost. I've NO experience with superchargers, or tiny stock turbos for that matter, just to clarify.

Daily drive one for a year or two, they don't hafta go WOT all day, same as a street bike. They don't mind the revs, but they don't
HAVE to scream the whole time. Unless your into that. (screamers are a good time, if they're not obnoxious screamers.... 😉)

The mill I'm aiming to swap in has the same output as the V6 that its replacing. I'm not trying to run an OEM 8v 80's slug of
a low compression turd here. I could give a toss about displacement and anything over 6 cyls ive very little interest in
unless its like a corsair 20-somthing cylinder airplane engine(which I still have no true understanding of yet, due to lack of research)

I like sub 2.8 liter 6 cyls and 4 cyls. I don't see a need for anything bigger than that in a daily driver/ recreational vehicle.
Displacement has a replacement, boost is best.

I just noticed yesterday that this thread should be in the 4x4 section.
I saw mkII Montero/ max and dove right in, my bad. If a mod wants to move it that's fine w me,
I'm sorry for the hasty posting....

You have the rare V6 4x4 with V5MT1 transmission and 4.22 gears. Anything other than a replacement 6G7* from a Mitsubishi will not work with your current setup. Honestly if you want to have a 4g6* in there then get an 89 or older. What I think you are missing though is that torque will be better with the V6 and all of your drive train components are beefier as well. You can still get great fuel economy with a V6 and have plenty of power. I’m a turbo guy myself but decided to go 3.8L with MIVEC. Best decision as it bolted right up to my existing 3.0 bellhousing. Now there is obviously more stuff to tackle but it’s all doable and reliable. Don’t be close minded. Get another V6 and enjoy.

install a turbo, only to 'drive around' it ? who does that ? Makes absolutely no sense
Boost onset with motor under load, needs a fat a/f ratio. Try to lean it out and see what happens
Motor spends a tremendous amount of time under such condition.... moderate acceleration from stop or low speed
How u gonna avoid that ?
Put on a slower spooling big turbo.... and the goal is daily driveability ? Not smart at all
Oem put small quick spooling turbos on there for one reason. Tq curve, Reckon they don't know what they're doing ?

I'm an old rear wheel drive corolla guy. Here's a classic scenario
Begin life with the free revving 1.6dohc. Amusing drive. Hi 40s mpg hwy... at a penalty of hi 16sec 1/4s
Ever popular SR20 swap take it to another performance dimension. Hi 12s stock T25/28 turbo, but mileage cut in half
Owner gets a taste of the silky smooth 4.0 litre lexus V8, then yanks out the SR20 2.0 replacing it with the 4.0.
Mileage improves to between the 2.0 and 1.6. Also no comparison in driveability whatsoever
Just a tap on the throttle, presses you in the seat, scoots away strongly. Hi 12sec 1/4 as well
Motor, loom & ecu typically cost a few hundred bucks in junkyards. Weigh same as the SR20! No more swaps

Quote:

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Displacement has a replacement, boost is best

---

Don't believe that horse5hit... we'd all be driving 1.0L if that were true

Its been 10 years since I've had a build thread, I'm beginning to recall why I stopped.
My need for social approval and positive reinforcement is far out weighed by my utter hatred of being told everything I'm doing
wrong, all the time.

Sorry i forgot this is america. Even on a jap forum I get accosted for even thinking about "downgrading" to a 4 cyl w out boost...
You cunts would be humping my leg if this was a 4g63t swap.

Thanks for the few bits of viable information regarding my questions, those of you who were helpful & interested.
Perhaps I'll still tryin post some pics for those who can bear to watch the degradation....

its your ride, put whatever you like in it. No choice will be 'wrong', and definitely don't need our approval
it's just that your reasoning is wack and all over the place. No need to get all up in your feelings
So what if common sense prevails here. Should we appologize for it ? We can't assume you know everything
Like this assuption

Quote:

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You cunts would be humping my leg if this was a 4g63t swap

---

True we're fond of the 4g63t, but you gotta pull your head out to acknowledge other/better options
Why do you think the 3.8 mivec swap happened ?
There is a link around here where a guy turbocharged a $90 dodge caravan motor.
Essentially the same 12 valve truck motor. Made over 500hp/500ft-lbs tq with that 100% bone stock pos 3.0 V6
That's right, without changing a single part on that old tired junkyard motor!
Had I known that way back, I would have never gotten deep into 4G63t gear
V6 is way smoother, no balance shaft crap, compact, better torque throughout = a better drive period, etc...
That's just two samples of folks operating outside the norm and winding up with fantastic results

as long as your one-off approach gets you to where you wanna be.... its all that matters really
whatever powerplant you decide on post it. We can appreciate it all the same

Wow, not get your way much? My 16 year old niece acts better than this.

...everybody, just chill. Like seriously. :)

Attachment 21941Attachment 21942Attachment 21943Attachment 21944

it worked. here they come look out....

these are the bolts/holes that hold the steering box & idler arm.
i ordered a RHD idler arm from the UK last week, its for the next generation mkIII L200, but the bolt pattern looks
very close to the mkII L200/max. its taking its sweet time to get here unfortunatley, soon as it does
and i can verify the pattern is the same or close enough to mod, ill order the box and get that coming.
i fear to see the shipping quote on that, the new idler arm cost $40, shipping (slow shipping was $50)
funny enuff, the corner lights i ordered are coming from Lithuania, and are already in Queens NY, i think i ordered them
the same day or the next day. regardless u'd think itd take longer to get from northern european continent than
from the British Isles, whatever IDK.
Attachment 21945Attachment 21946Attachment 21947Attachment 21948

got some progress made on the interiour. pulled the dash, a/c unit, blower motor, and heater box.
now i can start replicating brackets to move the column and pedal cluster assembly to the right side.
Attachment 21952Attachment 21953Attachment 21954Attachment 21955Attachment 21956
you can see the spots the brake master (B) and clutch masters (C) go on the firewall.
Attachment 21957
theres an entire panel spot welded onto the firewall that has the pedal cluster studs welded to it
its welded on the bay side so the studs stick thru into the cab to catch the pedals, the brake booster
studs are also on or thru this panel, its to re-inforce the firewall and make locating the pedals quick in
assembly at the plant. im sure theres a LHD & RHD panel as they are stamped w ridges & such, so i cant
quite flip it over, ill hafta cut out a mirror image from some 1/8" sheet and spot weld that to the right
firewall. you can see it in these pics, around the booster and near that diagonal groove in the firewall
Attachment 21958

i have to do all this in somewhat stealth. I live w my father here in our shop, and he thinks RHD is
"F'in stupid" and that "youve got enough trouble driving on the left hand side thats the last thing you need"
and ive gotta keep this thing drivable to move in and out of the way. this is our residential shop and not the buisness
shop, so its not busy, but its still gotta stay mobile. so ive got to get everything ready to go and swap the pedals
& steering over in one evening. shud go quicky once everything is ready to go and the brackets are all ready to bolt
everything up. if that damn idler arm would get here id order the box and get this shit done!!! dagnabbit.

oh, the grille shud be here tomarra, and once i can get this next door to the welder ill finish fixing the nose
get it straight & work out the fenders to take the monty bezels/corners. im fabbing the lower front valance thing
that crosses underneath the headlites & grille myself.
https://cs.copart.com/v1/AUTH_svc.pd...d1893430a4.JPG
the monty hoods are more pronounced forward where the grille
meets it, the max hood doesnt push forward its flatter there. ill post pics of the rad support & lower crossmember i end up
making up to replace the smashed up parts, itll have mounts for the new grille and valance.
this is kinda what its gonna look like:
https://www.rockcrawler.de/gallery/u...3-07af5dd2.jpg

jesus the size of that pic my bad...
https://www.rockcrawler.de/gallery/u...16d89-tiny.jpg

This is gonna be cool

too bad the truck is red. i really dont care for red.....

i forgot the badness i found. gonna pull the bed to fix the frame, the floor shouldnt be aweful.... still what a bummer.
Attachment 21959Attachment 21960Attachment 21961Attachment 21962

What size is the workshop you are working in? I want to build one in a couple years and that looks about the right size for me.

its pretty big. its 4300 sq ft including the offices (x3) two of which are now bedrooms.
theres x2 bathrooms, a small w sink & toilette, then a bigger bath prolly 8ft x 16ft had a long 3 person sink
and 1 toilette w/ a partition & door, now it has a shower stall, deep shop sink, stack washer/dryer & the same toilette w/ a partition & door.
my father & myself each have a bedroom, but the open shop space we split with another guy who basically just stores vehicles
thats who's white dodge & older green van & that older pickup, beetle, & newer cadillac are. the line is right at the lift.
my monty max is on his side right now, behind the shooter spot is our side of the shop....
if you want some tour pics i can PM you some. LMK

i got my grille & corner lights today, imma go tape them on w/ clear packing tape to snap some
vanity pics real quick. ill post some shortly.

Wish that friggin Idler arm would hurry its stuck-up british ass on up an arrive. i wanna order the steering box asap.
i realized last nite that because 1 of my brakelines is popped, and the parking brake works, that i can pull the
brake master & booster off the firewall and move it over while im waiting for the steering bits... so when it finally
does arrive ill have evrything ready to go and shouldnt take but an hour or 2 to finish, save the P/S lines
which i mite make myself but if i have any sense ill have them sent along with the RHD box.
pics shortly, just found my packing tape. heheheh

its a rough fit, it appears the overall width of the grille & bezels is a bit wider than
the max nose, so imma hafta do some trimming, probly to the bezels as they are available
new still and the grilles are not, so ill probly leave that alone and mod the bezels instead.
Attachment 21966Attachment 21967Attachment 21968
imma tryin get the brake lines out so i can pull the booster off...

Not sure what part the bezels are, and can't really tell for sure from the pictures, but it looks like the grill is the same with as the hood, it's just the parking lights that are too wide.
Could you use MM/D-50 parking lights instead? They seem narrower. They come in orange and orange/clear configurations. The latter might work for this.
It might look a little off, but then again, doesn't this whole rig look a little off?... (in a good way)

A little buzz here and there, maybe relocate mounting holes and add a bracket or 2 - but it'll go together. This will make the casual onlooker go "what is this thing?". The chrome grille is a bold statement. Can't wait to see the end product :thumbup:

the bezels are the black plastic headlite surrounds that hold the corners.

No no no, the chrome is just the only one i could find. its gonna be all black with a white emblem and white MITSUBISHI lettering.

so the brake booster is done. i still have to make the firewall re-enforcement plate. you can see it here better, it actually
goes all the way down and surrounds the steering column port as well as the gas pedal mounting holes.
Attachment 21974
i still gotta make mounts to the raintray inside the cab, and tweak the pedal arm a bit.
but its damn close i think.
Attachment 21976Attachment 21977Attachment 21978Attachment 21979
so i been looking at the steering box and the frames mounting holes, i think that modding the right front axle
mount arm to go down, and if one cut off the front most mount and moved it down & out of the way of the steering
box pivot to the drop link (hope thats the correct name) somthing like this:
Attachment 21975
the green is the cut and notch of the lower c.arm bracket, the grey is kinda how the arm would need
to go to clear the frame enuff for the LHD box to mount inside the framerail instead of a mirrored RHD steering box
it wouldnt change the offset over the framerail but maybe an inch towards the center of the rig.
from the OEM angle the column is on from the wheel to the box right now, i dont think this would be any
more of an angle. the only thing that would be off is the distance between the pivots of the steering box
and the idler arm. i was hoping the idler arm mite take up the difference, idk my experiance w this kinda steering
is a week old.....
perhaps someone with some deeper knowledge of steering setups might help dissuade this idea????

that grille looks similar to same year dodge dakota. Nice touch
http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/upl...s-great-10.jpg
All u need now is an "I4" badge to replace the "V6" emblem in the corner :)


Truck looks tuff.... even tougher is your mindset, to tackle this venture. Interesting

Its still a 6 for now you smartass. He he.
It does look very close, its not the most attractive grille, everybody should be clear about the trucks manufacturer at least.

This truck is tough. I must say that the 4 inch body lift is very nice so far as providing more space to work on things....
I can't wait to get this thing painted NOT red. I always end up w red vehicles cause its my least favorite colour, gonna be
a bitch to cover it all up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vagrant_mugen

the bezels are the black plastic headlite surrounds that hold the corners.

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Oh, I see. But again, it looks like the bezels line up with the hood, the same way the square light bezels do. So it looks like what's too big is the parking/turn signal lights. If you trim the bezels it wont line up with the hood and might look weird.
I bet you that if you used the Ram 50 parking lights it would be the correct width.

There's a version of the lights (sold in the Australian market, I'm told by my friends here) that is two tones, amber and clear like the Montero, and fits two bulbs, one for parking light and one for the turn signal. Here is one with the silver trim, could't find a black one just now, but I know they are out there as my truck has them:
https://www.ebay.com/p/MITSUBISHI-CC...GHT/1229981465

Here's a picture of the front of my truck, you can see how the two tone corner lights look like (and also confirm that the square bezels line up with the hood, like the round one do)
Attachment 21980

Just a suggestion, might be worth considering, as the trimmed bezels could end up looking weird.

It's gonna be a fun truck no matter what :thumbup:

Yeah I'll mess around w some stuff. The front end isn't even squared back up yet, the left fender needs to get
yanked back out away from the center, and the right side still needs mending. Once I get it back over to the body
shoppe I'll finish getting the nose all buttoned up, mount the headlights, build upper & lower cross member/rad supports
Hang the grille & bezels, etc......
I'll pull the bed off so I can repair the rott in the frame behind the cab, then sandblast the whole frame/undercarriage as well
as the cabs bottom, back , rockers & engine bay. Blow off as much red paint as possible, I'm thinking about doin inside the cab
too. The entire dash is out, I'm pulling the seat, carpet and door cards so I can paint the jams & door insides, I'm gonna sandblast
every red part that isn't external body. Then I'll know that there's no more rust, rott, and most importanly no more Red.
Imma industrial pre-prime, epoxy prime & topcoat everything over again from bare white blasted steel. No foolin this trucks gonna
be brand new again. I just hope I don't destroy it again like I do to every other vehicle i be owned..... Prayin like hell.
everything

Yeah the combination parking/indicator corner lights are for the Aust/UK market. I'd recommend looking into soda blasting. Sand blasting is hell aggressive - I have a Karmann Ghia some idiot attacked with a sand blaster and a 9" flap sander and they pretty much ruined it. Red paint is a biatch to cover up so I get you don't feel up to rubbing everything back by hand. Fingers crossed you can either find someone who can do you a deal or you can source the equipment and give it a shot yourself.

My father is a sandblaster and painter. We know how to do it. You can warp the hell outta body panels super easy,
esp w big equipment like padres got. Fine sand and black beauty don't tear it up as bad. General rule is don't blast
exterior panels period. I'm talkin structural/floor/panel hidden areas.
Can use corn cob or walnut shells as well if non-abrasive is required. Soda blasting is a
friggin mess. Too fine any humidity screws u up. Shits nasty PITA in my opinion.

I'm trying to bribe this bloke from Newton Abbott, United Kingdom rite now to expedite a box to me, I'm up to
£240 shipped, that's my ceiling I think.....

Alright. I jumped the gun and have a mk3 L200 steering box and lines going out Monday, got the guy
to do £200 shipped, or $260~. Not terrible and its off a newer truck.
Hopefully it'll get here nice and quick. Same gen as the idler arm I ordered, the hole pattern looks really
close to my mk2, I was supposed to wait to make sure w the idler but I'm getting impatient waiting so......
padre knows now and surprisingly he's cool with it. No reason to be sneaky anymore.
I still need it to be movable, but I can get all the brackets and mounts sorted out while I'm waiting for
the box to arrive, then just hafta move the column, clutch & accel pedal over & swap in the RHD box/arm.

Gonna be so super dope JDM schweetness OMG so F'in cool.... Funny tho it'll probly double the value of the truck.
Never mind the Montero nose. This thing resto'd, blasted & painted RHD shud fetch 5 grand I'd like to hope,
Thats with the OEM v6 tidied up, no motor swap.... The rareness factor alone stateside, IDK.

Those Lil Honda douchers would be so jealous if they knew how easy this is to do on these riggs.
My friends have a shop in higganum they do alot of RHD civic swaps.
Clowns are actually drilling out every single spotweld and literally swapping out the entire firewall so its
"legit JDM spec" I understand but I think they're crazy. I think I'd rather chop the front clip off in front of
the front seats and mate the JDM front clip to the USD rear, prolly be faster then it'd be a real JDM car, kinda.
They purchase the entire front clip cut behind the front seats, maybe in front of I forget, from these
JDM Honda warehouses in jersey full of JDM engines & front clips. If only they had those for
Mitsu/Toyota trucks & suvs.

Awesome, you got a plan and thus so far it's all falling into place. Mitsubishi stuff is surprisingly cross platform adaptable and you'll find a lot of parts can be swapped and/or upgraded. I admit it's not always a nut and bolt swap but it usually doesn't take much to get to the end goal. We have (had?) a member that bought a RHD delivered truck in the states and it got tongues flapping in no time. The other rarity are actual Mitsubishi US dealership delivered pick ups and 4x4's. For it to be legit Mitsubishi JDM you'd have to find the right body badges to match it (no biggie). Mitsubishi cheaped out and made their panels "one fit to do everything" on most production runs so you'll see all of the locations to run heater hoses, A/C, brake booster etc for one market visible for another market. Plugging and welding up the holes won't be hard either especially if you have a shop like you do to work in.

my bad been slacking on picture posting:
so i made a template of the OEM firewall re-enforcement plate for whatever stupid reason
as afterward i realized that its a totally different layout on the right side of the firewall...
whatever.
Attachment 21999
and i started to lay out the steering column port, its actually kinda in a similar spot as the
LHD template, im not going to drill/cut anything until the box arrives and i can move the
steering wheel permanently on the RHD-side. then i can see where the hole needs to go.
i dont think there is ANY kind of flex or u-joint INSIDE the firewall, the 1st on the column is
just past the firewall in the engine bay, the 2nd is down at the box. so the firewall hole/port needs
to be in the correct spot, then the shafts bushing/seal unit can get bolted to the firewall round it.
Attachment 22000Attachment 22001Attachment 22002Attachment 22003Attachment 22004

But i got the clutch located, hole cut and stud holes drilled, the support plate cut out, ready to spot-weld onto the wall.
mounted the pedal unit and started fabbing the support bracket that gets welded to the firewall under the windshield:
Attachment 22005Attachment 22006Attachment 22007Attachment 22008
and got my wiper linkage pulled out to move over. what a bitch. only x2 of the x6 nuts were NOT rott-welded onto the studs
managed to get a small set of needle nose vicegrips into the raintray and grabbed onto the bases, after i ground off the tip
of the studs flush with the nuts, so as to ease removal and not have to spin the nut over crusty blown up rotted metal,
but still saving enuff of the stud to re-use the linkage assm.
the factory punched out the 1st hole pattern for the wiper-stem & studs of the RHD set, but the furthest set is not theref
or whatever reason. so i transferred the pattern over and drilled out the stud holes, ive yet to cut the big slot for the stem.
Attachment 22009Attachment 22010
you can see there is this drip shield thing to cover the inlet of the blower motors fresh air intake, ive gotta cut that out
because the wiper linkage doesnt clear it. i was going to tryin drill out the spot welds, u can see them in white paint marks
but then i thought better of possibly blasting holes thru my cowel and firewall, so i think im gonna use a cutoff wheel and
slice iit out flush under the cowel, then weld a flange back on it and transplant it to the left side for the new blower intake.

And the wiper motor has to get moved over as well, so i cut out the part of the firewall/raintray wall that the mounting
bosses/weldnuts were on (which i only did when i couldnt reach the 4th of x4 wiper linkage studs w the vicegrips, like a jerk)
so im swapping the pieces of the firewall so the Left side looks how it would OE RHD, theres a funky C-shaped indent where the
motor mounts up to the firewall, see:
Attachment 22011Attachment 22012Attachment 22013Attachment 22014
thats all for now, more soon.
i just hope this bloke i ordered the steering box from gets that expedited ASAMFP. i paid him $315 for a $100 steering box, a
set of p/s lines, and a RHD accell pedal. he only wanted like $260 shipped i sent him the extra $40 to get him moving...
paid him sunday nite (early monday mornin in UK) but i dont think he made it to the post. i just hope expidition gets it here
by the weekend. im not gonna hold my breath, the idler arm still aint here....
ill keep yall posted tho fo shur.
nite nite

This project sukz ---no Isuzu engine:lmao::lmao::lmao:
JUST KIDDING !!!

Thank You for the pics/updates--- Just Superlative !!!

Completely forgot about having to swap the wiper arm assembly. It would be nice if you could get parts to do the factory RHD swap. Wonder if you'd get anything out of Canada... :think:

Plenty of parts down here

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by geezer101

Completely forgot about having to swap the wiper arm assembly. It would be nice if you could get parts to do the factory RHD swap. Wonder if you'd get anything out of Canada... :think:

---

Canadia got all LHD as well as US, sucks cause thatd be great if they did get RHD's up there. there'd be a shit-ton more
RHD vehicles in the states thats for sure.

I been thinking about ur PM about the wiper/turn signal switches roundd the steering wheel. like i said i didnt realize that
the RHD cars have the headlight/turnsignal stalk on the Right side of the wheel, rather than on the left side as the LHD
vehicles have. You said it'd be a pain to deal with them switched as of 20years of driving used to it on the left...
But after some pondering, i realized what a PITA its gonna be to keep it on the left like it is OEM stateside.
picture it, every time your coming to a stop & turn, your downshifting with your right hand and steering with ur left.
You hit the turn signal stalk with your middle or ring finger as your steering with your LEFT hand, prolly positioned on the
LEFTish side of the wheel.
Now imagine your driving a RHD rigg, doing the same stop & turn. your downshifting with your left hand, and steering
with your RIGHT. as you start slowing down you have to reach up with your LEFT hand, or move ur RIGHT hand around the
steering wheel to reach the turn signal stalk on the left side of the wheel. RHD riggs, esp manual transmissions, you steer
dominantly with your RIGHT hand. so to have the turn signal stalk as close to your dominant steering hand for smooth, quick
& fluid access only makes sense. Not an immediate issue, but definitley worth getting the proper RHD switches in the future.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tortron

Plenty of parts down here

---

well the UK is less than satifactory, i bet things would arrive quicker from the other side of the globe, rather
than 5000miles away cross the atlantic..., this is just stupid.
that sure sounded like an offer to ship things up & over to
Im not tryin to talk shite about the british, im sure theres alot of very hard workers on that island,
but the x2 guys ive dealt with in the past 2 weeks were less than ambitious. IDK, i just want this box to get
here so i can move everthing over & done. then i can get blastin & painting the frame, and all the NON-exteriour
body panels. i finshed the clutch pedal support backet, just need to weld on m8 nuts and spot-weld the whole
onto the firewall above the column:

Depends on the car as to side of indicator switch. Gets me every time in the Mrs' golf

I could get RHD column covers and switch assemblies all day cheap here. The 'good' thing is the Australian dollar is toilet paper at the moment (yay :shakehead:) so the exchange rate would be in your favour. Meh, I'd toss in a couple of Oz market body and fender badges as well... 2 plastic cases and a switch yoke would weigh stuff all (I'm not even sure if you'd need the column covers anyway...)

I was falling asleep at the keyboard, that's why there's no pics. I'll get some up today,
Sorry

Holy crap that post is terrible. I swore I loaded pictures.... Kept passing out and waking up to a page of jibberish
from my hand on the keyboard.

I'll definitely take a proper set of switch yokes if u can find em. Mite have a couple other small, lite weight RHD bits I'll
need as well, I'll let one or both of you know when I have a small list...

Wanker still giving me the runaround on the steering box. I gave him 12 more hours to send me a tracking number.
Should've just pulled outta this I'm sure I'll regret not canceling yesterday. Lazy MFers.
Your gonna sell shit on ebay, get the stuff shipped out once ur paid. Bollocks

This anglo, uber-retarded timing is messin up my tune big time. Gonna push this back another week at least.
I mite have to switch gears and clean out my carbs on my 600r ninja, its getting warmer out.
Once I run out of brackets to make & holes to cut/drill imma have some time to twiddle my thumbs waiting on parts.

I'll re post that mess from last note in a bit. I would edit it but I'm still on probation being a newbie here.

Make a donate to the site. You get perks like unlocking the edit function, the site stays up and operational - everyone wins :thumbup:

i finshed the clutch pedal support backet, just need to weld on m8 nuts and spot-weld the whole thing
onto the firewall above the column:
Attachment 22026Attachment 22027Attachment 22028Attachment 22029
IF that damnable steering box and idler arm ever show up, the next thing is going to be cutting and modifying
the steering column support bar that mounts under the column from the side of the cab to the bolt-in upright
at the center console. the long side needs to switch with the short side thusley:
Attachment 22030
then i think im going to re-use the upper column support, its just so pretty.
but in all honesty, i can actually re-use it because the firewall on the right side is the same height and
shape as the left. most of the other parts were at different distances from things in there new RHD locals...
Attachment 22031
im planning on replikating the OEM pajero dashboard out of sheet steel, its all straight bends across the span
of the wind screen so i shouldnt be too difficult to do. ill probly omit the middle vents as i never
use them:
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attac...-photo0415.jpg
i was thinking about using an oem center console, but i kind of like the fact i can cut/weld and mount anything
i want to it, not to mention repairs or further modifications. i like the look of the mkI dashboard alot,
much better than the mighty max's.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/bb/28...cdf5999a00.jpg
so nice and simple and clean and sharp looking.

jesus WTF.
heres the 1st 4 pictures:
Attachment 22032 Attachment 22033Attachment 22034 Attachment 22035
and hell yeah im gonna plasma out the mitsu emblem on that bracket.
and the 5th pic that didnt load properly
Attachment 22036
And yes im planning on donating soon as i have sommore cash, NOT ONLY because id like to edit my posts
in situations such as these....

Definitely NOT looking forward to adding 4 foot of wires individually to extend that chassis harness to get it to reach
the right hand side. I don't wanna wait or pay for the proper one so F it. Give me something to do while I wait
for these steering bits to arrive....

I've been trying to think of a place to relocate my battery to, and perhaps add if not a 2nd battery just yet, at least
a spot where it can go when I want/need it. I'd usually go to the trunk/boot with them, but I don't have a boot on this.
I don't want to take up any bed space, and behind the seats would be a major pain in the ass.
I think I'm going to cut a trap door in the new passenger (old drivers) side floor in front of the seat, and weld in a nice
double size battery box that will protrude down next to the framerail. With the 4inch body lift there is more than enuff
space, and its bottom wouldnt be lower than the frames. Anybody have any possible con's regarding such placement???
It'll prolly be made outta 1/8 inch sheet steel so It won't crush easily from below....

Some of the 4wd trucks have the battery under the tray. Right hand side near the bed mounts. The lower panel of the wellside tray is made to be removable.

Would you not just move the loom over to the other side of the truck? All the mounts and holes are there already

I'll hafta look a Lil closer at what it goes to exactly, but I'd hafta swap the chassis harness with the engine injection
harness, the ecu is mounted in front of the door jam just inside the cab on the right hand side.
So I'd need to re-route the injection loom to the other side and the chassis loom visa-versa haye???
I believe your versions just have either an extension loom to bring the dash & controls plug ends to the right side.

"The lower panel of the well side tray...." Ur going to need to re phrase that or direct me to the area ur speaking of by
describing other surrounding objects, cause I've no clue what a well-side tray is, forgive my ignorance.

Its like the bonnet=hood, boot=trunk, loom=harness, etc.... I'm just not familiar with the rest of the body
panels, translations, if you will, into Aussie, kiwi & British English dialect, or slang. I would like to learn
tho, in no way meant to offend anyone w anything I wrote. I like hearing/learning new "strains" of english

Well, I know that Oz and NZ don't refer to D-50's and MM's as 'trucks' but we do it to fit the the format here (we call them 'utes' - the abbreviation of light utility vehicle) South Africans call them 'bakkas' (probably something to do with throwing your payload in the back) I think the ECU's in RHD trucks are still mounted on the left side but under where the glovebox is situated :shrug:

Nice teach me some more s.African terms! An even the outback variation too wouldbe awesome.

My idler arm is supposedly here, unfortunately at present its locked in the mailbox and my 2 attempts to
coerce the lock into rotating open, failed. Being that this was at 1-1:30am I decided to abort any further
attempts at lock smithing & avoid getting arrested for tampering with a mailbox lockin the wee hours..
So I'll hafta wait til morning.

After further inspection of the chassis & injection looms, they both jump from the firewall to the engine almost
in the middle of the firewall, as well as there is a ziptied loop of extra length in the inj. loom under the bonnett,
so I shud be kosher to swap the ecu side with the fuseblock side where they go thru the firewall.
Same size holes, an then the fuses will be on the drivers side ( I was gonna leave em on the left over the battery's
new location, but it'll be more properist on the right switched w the ecu.)
Only thing that makes me nervous is the wires being so old and brittle, I hope none crack & develop
phantom shorts.

I have no tracking info on the steering box, seller & eBay states that its shipped, but there's no track package
tab and he ain't replying to my messages anymore... So well have to wait & see I suppose.

I have some rear brake line/system deletion quandaries, but I'll wait til I have some pictures to splain a bit more
pacifically to yall... ;)

Yeah if mess with DSM stuff you will soon hear about wiring harnesses developing mystery faults from broken wires. Put money on trucks suffering from similar issues when you man handle the wiring. I don't know beans about South African slang - only found out when I was looking up where the Mighty Max/Triton/L200 ended up being sold around various continents etc (it might even be 'bakkie' :shrug: - got a feeling might be the latter...) Ugh I hope you don't get played from the guy in the UK. Getting burnt like that doesn't do your faith in humanity any favours :shakehead:

So the idler arm is here. Yae. box was totally F'ed, one seam torn completely open, no
packing material to speak of. the whole arm was hangin out the side when i picked it up....
but the part wasnt damaged, the nut was threaded on enuff to not spin off somehow, if
there was a cotter pin/grease fitting they are long gone. no worrys.

My hasty purchasing has supplied me with parts off of a 2005 mkIII trition/L200, which is nice
cause they are newer parts, esp the steering box which is used. But alas, the dimentions are
NOT quite the same. Not off enough to worry me, just hafta persuade things a bit more is all.

the two forward holes are close enough to call the same:
Attachment 22048 Attachment 22049

but the 3rd is off by a good 1/8 inch off, maybe a tad more:
Attachment 22050 Attachment 22051

thats how much its off, not much:
Attachment 22047
they are just thru-bolted thru the frame rail so ovaling out a hole is not a big
deal, but there are other dimentional issues at hand here. most obtrusivley
is the idler arm itself, which is about 1/2 inch LONGER than the MKII maxes:
Attachment 22052 Attachment 22053
now things start to get tight when you look at the clearances between the
lower control arm, the tie-rod, shock, etc. in here. until i can get the LHD
idler arm & box removed and actually place things against the framerail its
hard to tell exactly how close everybodys gonna be:
Attachment 22054 Attachment 22055 Attachment 22056

hopefully the idler arms balljoint will clear the bump-out in the tie-rod, if its too close
im either going to slot the steering box holes & move the idler arm & steering box
forward on the framerails like 1/4-3/8 inch, shudnt need more than that, prolly wont
take the whole 1/2inch, looks like enuff space.

OR, i was going to rotate BOTH the arm & the box a tad to change the angle of the
idler & boxes pivots like 10 degrees or so, thusley:
Attachment 22057
thing is it'll move the balljoint down which is closer to the lower control arm, so we'll
see once the box arrives ( if you jinxed me geezer so help me...) and i can get things
mocked up on the frame.

ive been lazy this week, ive nothing else to report/post, sadly.

i forgot to snap some pics of the rear brake lines and the odd capsule/canister i found in front
of the right rear wheel, tucked up under the bed corner, has brake lines and vac lines going
into it. i was following the 2 brake lines as i want to delete the load/pressure regulator unit
that is mounted over the rear axle.... hoping i can delete all that shit and just have a brake
line ( or even if need be) to the rear brakes. ill snap some in a bit & slap em up show u wat
im talkin bout.

So ive got this thing sittin around, it wouldnt be hard to fit this guy into Montgomery.
its a vw 2.0L 16v dohc (aba/16v) w/ t3/t04 custom header & intake manifold.
just needs a megasquirt kit and it'll do 300whp....

Attachment 22068 Attachment 22069 Attachment 22070
Attachment 22071 Attachment 22072

heres the stuff i want to delete from underneath the truck, any reason why i should NOT???
Attachment 22073 Attachment 22075

I think the rear bias brake proportioning valve has to stay. IIRC at least one or 2 members have had problems with their brakes after messing with these things (one was due to it failing outright and not being able to source a replacement unit) but this may be load proportioned - more load on it via the spring = more actuation of the brakes. Someone will chime in on this...

i know what its there for, but i want all that extra shite gone...

even if i gotta install an aftermarket bias valve, im thinking about ditching the mechanical e-brake and putting in
a line lock or was even thinking about a stand-alone cylinder with its own resivor so its not reliant on the primary
brake system & can actually be an emergency brake.

Attachment 22075
I just don't know what this thing is. I'm leaning towards a vacuum tank to keep the booster & brakes harder if u stall out on a steep incline maybe, idk?????

Proportioning valve and the other looks like the rear ABS. I would at least keep the proportioning valve.

Yeah the entire e-brake/hand brake assembly isn't exactly inspiring or beautiful. I'm considering going hydraulic e-brake/drift brake with a lever locker on it just to simplify the set up, something easy to mount between the seats on the trans tunnel...

The thing is I'm not sure i wana go to buckets, i kinda like the bench. In which case I need to
utilize the OE handbrake under the dash/column.....
I can get creative with arms & levers, I'm even thinking about a clutch master cyl w its own line
going to a motorcycle caliper or some tiny rear caliper off a car, squeezing either one of the
(hopefully) 2 rear disks or I was even thinking about a tiny rotor on the driveshaft to the rear
diff. Me padre said monster trucks run one giant rotor on the driveshaft behind the tranny.
Thought that was interesting idea.

I got tired of the bench. Long rides and that saggy thing kills your back.

More pics from different angles ???
What are these (marked in red)
Attachment 22082

those are the bed mount towers coming up off the framerails, the black cylenders atop them
are the 4inch lifts. that shot is from above the driveshaft looking to the right over the right-side
framerail. ill take more pics soon.
Attachment 22083
heres some labels to kinda get oriented......

Charcoal canister?

nope its not the charcoal can. thats up underneath the hood.
heres sommore pictures of the mystery can and where it is:
Attachment 22085 Attachment 22086 Attachment 22087
Attachment 22084 Attachment 22088 Attachment 22089

heres where im at with the wipers. the linkage is mounted, but theres a tiny difference between
the RHD & LHD linkage, i have to clock the end of the arm which bolts to the motor, see:
Attachment 22090
need to get clocked 90 deg from 12 to like 3 or so.

the wiper blade arms are also R/LHD specific, theres a wee little tweak that needs to go
the other direction:
Attachment 22092
Attachment 22093 Attachment 22094 Attachment 22091
and heres what they look like now:
Attachment 22095
still need a little tweaking but theyre close. ive got it nextdoor tonight in the
welding/body shoppe. gonna tryin get some firewall stuff welded in. hopefully
weld in the wiper motor mount & fix the linkage. ill post up whatever i get done.

gonna have a cup of tea and a schmoke & get to it. more pics in the wee hours

IDK wat happened to the 1st mystery can post. mysterious.....
try again
Attachment 22097 Attachment 22098 Attachment 22099
Attachment 22096 Attachment 22100
realized theres a vacuum line that comes out of the top of this thing and into the rear right
corner of the cab. im puzzled by this.:
Attachment 22101

I had an idea to make my own wiper linkages using heim joints and threaded rods - however I have no idea if it would work... These linkages are getting old like the rest of the truck and IDT anyone will do through the effort to either reman these or find an off the shelf /newer assembly that is compatible.

they sell new mk1 pajero wiper linkage its on ebay uk, but its from malaysia:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Mitsu...QAAOSwbtNaRedK

i was going to order new linkage for this truck, but im outta cash after shelling out for that steering box.
perhaps itll get a new set somtime, but these will suffice for the time being.

i got the clutch & brake re-enforcement plates done and welded on the firewall. and pulled off the horrid clearance
lights atop the cab, bunch of screw & wire holes to fill. PITA. have pics in few more hours.
now onto the clutch support, wiper motor & linkage.

so i pulled the BS clearance lights that some dumb shite drilled 3 holes x5 lights so x15
holes in the paper thin roofskin. lots of body work up here:
Attachment 22108 Attachment 22109 Attachment 22107
looks much much betterer.

Got the brake booster plate cut out and the mitsu logo too:
Attachment 22110 Attachment 22111
Attachment 22113 Attachment 22114 Attachment 22112

And the plate re-enforcements and clutch support all welded in place, then a quick grind
and some primer until i can prep the whole cab and paint the floors, firewall, and jams.
Attachment 22116 Attachment 22117 Attachment 22120
Attachment 22119 Attachment 22118 Attachment 22121

i still need to make two bosses to bolt the tabs on top of the brake pedal assembly to, but i haft to wait
until I patch the old blower motor intake hole, because one of the tabs is under that hole at present...

i gotta go to an appointment at 9am, so im done for the night/morning. ill be back at it later on.
hopefully that steering box shows up in the next few days. im ready for it. :)

Grrr of all the places to blow holes in a panel, the roof turret is the worst place to do it. You are really getting into this truck and making lots of progress. It's a PITA setting up the pedals but at the same time you'll bee able to tweak them so they suit you perfectly. It's coming along nicely :thumbup:

That canister is for your rear ABS.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by geezer101

Grrr of all the places to blow holes in a panel, the roof turret is the worst place to do it.

---

i know right? idk if im gonna tryin weld them up, or just dimple eash hole in a little bit, & use this underwater
fairing filler for sailboats that my dad uses, stuffs even petroleum resistant. ive used it to replace shifter bushings
on my e30 and covered in grease theyre still tight 5 years later... not big on filling holes but i dont know if heat
is gonna be a good idea on that paper thin roofskin. i dont want to warp it any worse than it is already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chargerx3

That canister is for your rear ABS.

---

ABS? then its outta there! what does that line going inside the cabin go to??? i havent and am not sure if i want to
pull that rear interiour panel off...

if i am indeed going to remove that rear load-sensing proportioning valve contraption, as i believe i am, then
i was curious if i should keep the x2 lines that go back to the rear axle, or just run a single back and tee it
to either side???

Trace them, but you might need to find a way to tie them into each other

ill take some pics later and see what things look like. tanks bru

heres a lil more on the wipers....
i still hafta flange the two panels and spot weld them back in, think i got the linkage correct as well.
Attachment 22133 Attachment 22135
you can see the harness in this shot, the two leads that go to the engine are almost centered on
the firewall, so it should flip over and swap sides pretty easy.
Attachment 22134

Attachment 22136 Attachment 22137 Attachment 22138
idk wats up w these pics

been lookin at the rear brake lines a lil more, i appears that one line gets T-ed from the front caliper lines
and a 2nd line comes out of the rear (closest to booster) master cyl port, drops down next to the line
coming from the front brake line and both go back into the rear load prop valve.
makes me think that the valve might sned more pressure from the front circuit when there is a heavy enough
load in the bed. the ABS canister thing must be there to keep them from getting enough pressure to lock the
rear wheels im guessing... ill have pics in the early hours or tomarra some time.

still waiting for the steering box.........................................

wiper linkage done:
Attachment 22176 Attachment 22175
flanged the motor mount & blank:
Attachment 22178 Attachment 22177 Attachment 22179
and spot-welded them on the panels:
Attachment 22180 Attachment 22181
drilled out the surrounding firewall:
Attachment 22182 Attachment 22183
i didnt get a shot of them in place and i havent welded them in place because
i have yet to cut the new blower intake, but i did remove the intake lip thing
you can see it in the last pic where its getting moved to. im just going to use
adheasive seam sealer and just glue it in place rather than of spot welding it,
the lip and the new rain gaurd that goes above it to keep the water from going
into the blower. once i get those installed ill weld in the panels & blend it all
in with filler then fair it in so it looks like nothin happend....

ah yes and the brake lines. heres the lines as they are minus the master & booster
i still havent gotten shots of them down the frame & to the rear end tho...

this is the cluster of splitters after splitters:
Attachment 22185 Attachment 22186 Attachment 22184

im sure that because of the lack of updates your expecting a shit-ton of pics
and progress to have been made... unfortunately thats not the case.

so as far as the steering box i ordered 3 weeks ago, heres the message i got from the
doucher wet-hand i purchased from:
"I just received back and a fine of £200 because cwas leaking oil...I wrap again cand send it tomorrow better drain"

in short i said that this is crazy, i want pictures of a shipping receipt, tracking number, and proof of expidited
shipping. otherwise im turning this over to ebay for refund. totally amateur far as im concerned. i hope he did get fined
if he cant drain a steering box and put it in a couple plastic bags and newspaper before boxing it up. what the hell.
im kinda pissed about this.

But regardless of the bullshit, i ordered a Tundra front brake rotor for fittiment on monty here.
my findings were fruitful-ish:
So my first issue was that the toyota rotors bolt on in-between the hub and the wheel, where the mitsu rotor bolts to
the back side of the hub.
Now, 1st i wanted to see the offset of the toyota rotor hat as well as the rotor hub diameter to make sure itll
clear the mitsu hub and sit at roughly the same spot as the stock rotor.
Attachment 22276 Attachment 22277
and the tundra rotor sits at the same spot as the mitsu rotor, the tundra going on as it does on toyotas,
in between the hub and the wheel.
the only thing thats going to need modification is the mitsu hub itself, which is quite a bit bigger diameter
than the inside of the tundra rotor:
Attachment 22278 Attachment 22279
but there is more than enough meat on the hub to machine it off and still have plenty around the studs,
which might need to get swapped out for longer ones...
Attachment 22280

i havnt gotten a caliper to play with yet, but im hoping that the rotor being close to the stock position,
and the fact that the 4-piston tundra calipers dont need slider pins, hopefully itll be straightforward to make
some adapter brackets to mount them up. ill post up more when i get a caliper.

great.
idk what happened to the text color.
hope you like squinting

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by vagrant_mugen

great.
idk what happened to the text color.
hope you like squinting

---

I think that if you copy and paste from somewhere else, like an email, it keeps the black ink like the original. and then everything else you write after that stays black.
If you want, you can fix. Click the edit button on your post, highlight the black text and then click the button on the toolbar with the big letter A above, then choose white.

I'm not a donator yet I don't have the edit function available at my disposal...
Soon tho I'll be flush & plan on sending some funds in, I'd rather NOT have the little donator badge honestly

So I got another box en route from Britannia, from a proper breaker. Expedited DHL shipping supp to be 3-4 days
But I'm not holdin my breath after last 2 items from the Anglo isle. I'd be super amped if it got here by next weekend tho

Very little progress, I got a few things done but not much. I'll tryin take some pics that arnt too lame in a while.

Fingers crossed you finally get what you've been chasing :pray:

F'in A.
I didn't purchase it til Thurs afternoon, and Friday is a holiday obv, but the UK has Monday off as well....
No worries tho long as its here by next week I'll be satisfied.

Pickin away on things every evening as much as I can b4 I pass out sitting down staring at the truck in the early morning hours.
I'll post those pics from the other note shortly, padres blowing primer next door where the computer is next to.
(Not that they are really worth the time to post/view but, my ambition is not at a high rpm at present.

so like i said, very little got done, but i glued in the block off's for the left-most wiper hole,
as well as the brake booster:
Attachment 22379 Attachment 22380
i plasma'd out the blower motor port, but theres a bracket spot-welded up under the
dash holding it i place, i have to drill them out and itll all pop out.
next i have to glue the rain gaurd/lip thing down around the blower inlet.
Attachment 22378 Attachment 22377
this is the adheasive that im using on these things. marine grade should keep the water out.
Attachment 22383
heres the steering box mount points, minus the front upper bolt
you can see the bosses are actually each a piece of pipe that goes all the way through
the framerail and is welded on both sides. so i hafta cut out the rear-most boss and move it back
about 1/8 inch, which is a small amount for all this work i will admit. but being that they are welded
in lengths of pipe, i cant oval them out, and i dont want to use a smaller diameter bolt.
with the plasma cutter and the MIG it wont be but like a 45min job.
Attachment 22381
The only foreseeable hang-up will be the longer arms on the idler & steering box.
if i cant make them clear things as-is, im going to see if the arms off my OE max idler & box
can be swapped onto the newer mkIII L200 idler & box. if THAT fails, ill hafta move BOTH the
frontmost 2 box mount bosses instead of the 1 rear boss, or possibly even all 3 of them forward
to clear the longer arms (i have a sneaking suspicion that between the box and the arms that the
steering ratio mite, hopefully, be smaller lock to lock....) but i could also see mitsubishi just re-using
the same ratio box and just changing the arm lengths of the box & idler to decrease turns.

im pondering what to do about my radiator support now. im going to have to seriously modify
the existing headlight surround to go from the square headlites to the round ones.
the yellow marks are where the adjuster holes need to be, and im gonna hafta cut out the parts
in white outline to fit the montero bezels & corners.
Attachment 22382
so im leaning heavily towards scrapping the entire OEM radiator support & making everything
custom from new steel stock. i think itll save alot of time & look good too.
more to follow, somtime

well DHL sent me a txt message w my tracking info,
it got picked up in the UK yesterday, and they're stating a delivery date of TODAY by end of day....
unless they put it in an F22 raptor or somthin & hauled it over specially for me i dont see that happening.
Although id be thrilled if it were so.

...somehow I think they are being optimistic of their freight abilities

it says it was in East Hartford at 2pm, so it mite actually be here today.....
im very very surprised. i dont know how they skirted customs but for having left
Rotherham UK yesterday. im quite astounded.

its 730, i dont know when DHL ends its day, but im thinkin its gonna be more like tomarra....
regardless when it gets here, im probly gonna pull an all-nighter and at least get the idler arm & box
installed, and get the steering column & wheel swapped over. i think thats do-able for a 10hr evening.

then ill still have to flip the engine harness over so the fuseblock, column & gauge/dash plugs are on the right hand side,
and i shud prolly tryin move the clutch pedal, master and line over b4 or at the same time as the steering wheel, along
with the throttle pedal, but it mite be humorous NEEDING someone in the old drivers seat to work the clutch & throttle
while i steer and stop to move it out of the way for work in the morning....

soon as its here ill take a cpl pics and probly tryin get it on asap.

finally.
Attachment 22396

It looks pretty crusty, nothing a date with a wire wheel and maybe some new hardware won't rectify.

130AM update
taking a brake for dinner.
good news thus far, the box fits the 2 farthest holes front to back,
Attachment 22398 Attachment 22397
so i can get the box and idler arm bolted in with 2 bolts each for now, and focus on moving the
column over as well as the clutch and throttle pedals.
hes some crappy shots of the right and left sides:
Attachment 22399 Attachment 22400
so ive got like 6 hours to do the column, clutch & throttle.
and itd be nice to flip the harness over as well but im not gonna get overly-ambitious.
gotta go times a burnin

Attachment 22407 Attachment 22408 Attachment 22409

Way more complex to set up compared to converting a RWD truck. Looking good though - nice work :thumbup: