Printable View
Hey all,
I'm new to the is little truck thing. I picked up an 88 Power RAM 50 2.6l 5spd manual 4x4.
Sweet little rig....a little neglected but my son an dI plan to invest some TLC
Would love info on the Weber Carb upgrade and the manual hub upgrade as well.
Hi and welcome to mightyram. Your Ram looks like it's in reasonably good shape - nothing a big clean won't fix going by your pics. We have a ton of info on the Weber install but the first thing to check out is this thread -
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lots of relevant info in this page on the site - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uning-amp-Smog
(we really need a definitive guide with step by step instructions, related images and recommended parts condensed into a single page as a sticky)
So work has been progressing and getting her road worthy and cleaned up. Looks like a rat got inside and made a home so cab clean out is underway.
On the engine bay, replaced battery clamps, cleaned up the air cleaner, got new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, cleaned the heck outta the carb. Flushed and cleaned cooling system. She fires right up and runs smooth!
Have been working on rear end, had drums turned and cleaned up, new rear brakes and hardware, and new Monroe shocks. Drained and refilled the rear diff with new gear oil.
Front end is next on the to-do list.
Questions/Needs:
Where is the fuel filter?
Radio/heater control trim/bezel any ideas where I can find one?
wheels/tires: I’m looking at some 6 lugs off a mid 2000s 4Runner...those should be direct bolt on, right?
Attachment 20769
Rear axle wheel bearings: looks like the rear axle isn’t easily removable....is it a sealed up system?
Thanks for help, my Chiltons is back ordered so the forum is my lifesaver!!!
Attachment 20766Attachment 20767Attachment 20768
Fuel filter will be in front of the rear wheel. Get under and look at the lines coming out of the tank. It should be right there. I have not done it yet but a lot of guys mount an electric fuel pump in this area to get rid of the manual one.
Is it this little bugger???Attachment 20771
sitting right up between a crossmember and frame rail??
I have the gen one and it is opaque white plastic. That could be it if that is a fuel line going to it. I know it was a pia to change out.
Edit-I just looked again and it seems yours is coated in greasy dirt but looks to be the opaque white plastic under that dirt so you are probably right on. There is a a lot of GEN 2 manuals on the manual section.
BTW Welcome. I used to stomp around Tacoma back in the 80's. Lived in a roach infested old building with Art Deco styling on 6th and Fawcett. Apparently it is gone now. They had a big greenhouse in the park up toward hillside with a lemon tree that grew lemons as big as your head.
Here is the deal on the wheels. Depending on the center spacing on the wheels. You need 108mm to clear the rear hub that is sticking out. The front will work OK but om certain you will need to grind the tabs down so they will sit flush. The rear hub will need a spacer of 10mm thick and 108mm center so the rear wheels will set flush.
I found these after digging and taking measurements.
These will work or you could use larger spacers depending on the back spacing on the wheels. You will need to figure that out.
https://www.amazon.com/Kyo-ei-Adapte.../dp/B008J76I98
https://www.amazon.com/Kyo-ei-Adapte.../dp/B008J76I98
Thanks Max!!! You're a lifesaver!!!
Just finished the drivers side front end rebuild. New shocks, rotor, caliper, bearings. On to the passenger side next!
Was able to get the fuel filter changed out. It was a lot easier to just remove the little splash guard panel at the front of the rear wheel well to access the filter.
We cut the old one open to see how she looked.....good thing I changed it!
Attachment 20852Attachment 20853Attachment 20854
That filter has been forgotten for a long time. It was a time bomb waiting to sabotage the truck...
That's some dirty dirt !!!
so I saw some of the alternator threads....
Whats the best hi amp alternator solution? Is there a direct bolt on upgrade? Any ideas on part numbers?
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...mp-alternators
Bunch of options here, would be a safe bet that older Kia/Hyundai 90 amp alternators will work as well (depends on how they're mounted up)
Front end refurb complete!
new bearings, races, rotors, calipers, pads, shocks, sway bar links and bushings!!!
We are coating the skid plates with bedliner before reinstalling them too.
before and after of the passenger side. Also my 16yo son after finishing up the sway bar.
Attachment 20876Attachment 20877Attachment 20878
Most excellent - now it'll stop and turn like new. Good to see you've got family rolling up the sleeves on the truck too :clap:
Ok, ran into my first problem....Installed a new 75 amp alternator, and immediately after reconnecting batteries I got fizzling and smoke in the wires...
I'm assuming something grounded out. Removed alternator got it tested, its good....Battery checks out. Reinstalled alternator, truck still starts, but I'm not kicking the voltage to the battery, the alternator is still putting out good juice.
My question....can I just install a cable from the alternator to the battery + terminal?Attachment 20899
Internal or external regulator?
Internal
Looks like I blew the thick wire (light blue) on my two wire fusible link coming off the positive batter cable. Any idea on the amperage rating of that link?? I’m either going to replace with a maxi fuse setup or rebuild the link myself.
Attachment 20906
look in the manual section - the amperage is by color.
We got it, rebuilt the link with a 2mm fusible link wire.
Works like a charm and we are getting the right voltage and everything is happy!!
Attachment 20907
Most excellent :beavisbutthead:
Took her out for the first trip out of the stable, ran great! Just need to adjust the rear brakes a little!
5 Miles, parts store, car wash, and gas station made for a good road test!
Need to get my seat back from the upholstery shop still to complete my refurb!
Attachment 20947Attachment 20948
I've heard of "bucket seats", but "crate seats" is a new one on me.
Looks terrific!
After that you will really appreciate the stock seats. Your ass would've looked like a checker board! :lmao:(and it's not the first time I've seen it either, it's somewhere between desperation and madness)
Well, finally wrapped up the back to serviceable condition project:
The reupholstered bench seat came in today and she's officially race ready!
Overall I've done a lot:
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat, tstat housing, battery clamps, coil, belts, 95 amp alternator, wipers, rear brakes, front brakes (all new), front wheel bearings, shocks all around, sway bar links/bushings, tires. Also coated the skid plates and wheels with bedliner. Changed every fluid and filter on the truck (yes even the blinker fluid). Lastly, upgraded the headlights to Rampage H4 headlights.
On the interior we dynamatted the floor, roof, and back wall. Added some spray window/door foam in the holes to help minimize noise. Made a new back wall panel, installed Infinity Reference speakers and a Sony single DIN media receiver paired with a 8" powered sub. New cab carpet and a heck of a lot of cleaning.
Still on the to do list: Bedliner, ashtray, LED fog lights, back up lights, Class III hitch, window tint, and under rail bed lights. Also looking at a new exhaust and muffler with a Cat delete.
She's a beast!
Attachment 21019 Attachment 21020
Most excellent - geezer approves :thumbup: All you have to do now is post your fastest ET's from police cruisers and we'll be set!
Just broke 1500 miles on the hooptie. A mix of highway and city driving and she's holding an average of 22.77 mpg.
Running smooth, but thinking I might have to do tie rod ends as I have a little bit of play in the steering. Just ordered a new muffler and tail pipe as it sounds like she busted a baffle loose.
Any guidance on manual locking hubs? I have had the wheel lock light come on as I hit 70ish on the interstate and figured I might as well plan ahead to replace the auto locking hubs with manuals. I see some Aisin hubs on Amazon but figured I'd ask for some input.
Cured my rattle and noisy exhaust issue today...
bolt on walker muffler and tail pipe!!! All in with an hour of work and just under $90
She may not make a fast get away, but she can make a stealthy escape!!!!
Attachment 21150Attachment 21151Attachment 21152
Just finished 7,500 miles since getting her back on the road.
Used the weekend to rotate tires, check differential, transfer, and transmission fluids. Transfer leaks and front diff looks to have a little dribble, otherwise shes rocking and rolling.
Also working with my FCA Fleet rep to see if I can get new seat belt buckles based on the recall.
I will keep you posted.
Hello DirtyDirt n' welcome to Rammyville :)
You guys do impressive work (mind sharing the seat cover source...)
So, will Santa be giving your son the truck for Christmas..?
Seat was reupholstered by Richard's Upholstery in Olympia, WA.
As for my boy getting the truck, nah, not yet.....he's gotta do a little more to earn a sweet ride like this!
Thanks Dirty for that info; FYI, before relocating to Hawaii, Everett, WA was my home for 25 years... I wish I had a neighbor like you; I can't seem to fix anything right... I do have a local Hawaiian fellow that is like you, an impressive wrench turner but it's hard to get him...
DirtyDirt, do you have any opinion about removing engine carbon by running steam or water mist through the intake..? Maybe your truck runs like new (?) my stop & go traffic seems to be making my truck more sluggish; maybe time for carbon cleaning..?
Excited here to see your posts; thanks for posting...
What type of material did they do the seat cover in? I would like to have one done in maybe a duck canvas or something. Mind if I ask what they charged? I'm up in Kitsap County, not too far.
Awesome work man!
Congrats!!!
So, a year in, 15k miles, and she runs like a dream!
Seat was recovered by Richard's Upholstery in Olympia, WA. Its soft thick vinyl. Ran me about $400 with the headrests done too.
As for cleaning out carbon and funk, SeaFoam has been a life saver. I wouldnt do steam or water....water in an engine is not a good thing.
SeaFoam -- ok got it...
DirtyDirt, how about the PCV valve..?
My truck ran a little smoother once I replaced the PCV valve...
It took me two hours to verify it's location & 5 minutes to replace it..! :shrug:
Class III hitch ? Do you think your truck can pull that nice trailer parked on your property..?
Love your posts & your superior workmanship, thanks-A-Lot