Printable View
It's been a while I have been working on other projects. So I found out that the puddle of gas in my intake is due to the float in the carb being misadjusted. I followed instructions and made it level so I am unsure what to do to get it set so there is not overflow. Can anyone tell me which way to set it (above or below level) so that the gas doesn't overflow?
See my post response to your other thread.
Thanks That isn't my thread that;s why I asked for the answer here. :)
OK I looked and didn't find much with search. So maybe provide a link to that regulator data? I should mention that before the pop that apparently blew the balancer belt it ran great totally responsive fast etc. So I don't doubt yo Pennyman1 but I wonder what might have changed to make me need a regulator. Since the balancer belt apparently broke its been weak and it sat for a few years. Even with the new head after overheat and new Tbelt and Balancer Belt it doesn't like to jump and go, it drags like its bogging and the gas smell is real bad. So I might have bigger motor issues but I am focusing on the carb right now to stop the gas from overflowing. It needs a new cap somehow the new one that I put on when I changed the head is cracked.
the fact you ran it for a while without the regulator may have screwed up the needle and seat - it is attached to the float to shut off fuel flow when the bowl is full. Once the needle and seat don't seal, then you get more gas than it needs and it overflows into the manifold. Here is the link for the pressure regulator: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...sure+regulator
Thanks. It ran fine (still had gas smell) and hauled some heavy loads when I first got it. It only started having problems after the big pop with a load on a hill, which was apparently the Balancer belt. After that it had no umph but it still ran fine if I was gentle. I tried rebuilding the carb with no luck. Then it blew the head about 8 years later on a long highway trip in hot weather. It has never got back the umph it had when I first bought it.
I set the float level as the rebuild kit and weber site say to do. Both kits I have done had new needles. Do you know which way to set the float to make it fill the bowl less?
I will look into getting a guage to test my pressure then if its over 5psi I will make the change if not ?????.
The no luck refers to no improvement in getting the umph back.
what are you setting the timing to? and are you sure you followed the correct timing belt install on here, not the manual? That is the #1 cause of poor performance with the G63b, the belt being off 1 tooth.
I used this site, the manual, ETGC and a Dodge forum for assistance in doing the head and timing belt. I was careful since the balancer belt is so tricky. I have the timing set to whatever the standard is. I figure the dieseling (I have not mentioned) is due to whatever the carb issue is. I just happened to ask an old mechanic about the puddle of gas in my intake he said it was the float and i just got my Dakota running right so I turned to this so I can keep it going and good enough to sell if that comes up. It bothers me the 3.9 Dalkota gets better mileage than this 4 banger.
Oh yea lots of YT videos showing how to do the belts and warning of how tricky it is to get the timing and balancer belts right. It starts and runs well its only when I hit the gas hard or try to wind out the gears accelerating quickly that I get trouble.
When you get the overfuelling problem sorted you'll be able to tune it up. All the small issues combined turn a good engine into a thirsty donkey. Guys are getting 25mpg+ using a Weber and gaining HP in the process so it's worth it in the end.
Thanks Geezer101.
So I'm looking at the QFT regulators online (I searched the heading on that ebay page http://www.ebay.com/itm/190543394882...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) which I assume have the same design as the one Pennyman1 linked in that other thread. It has one IN and two OUT ports. ????? I know in but why two outs? The return to tank line is connected on the fuel pump, where would the second Out line connect?
Also what fittings do I need? It has to reduce from 3/8 NPT but I have no idea. I think I'm going to take some pics and post to let you guys see what I'm working with. It's beat up but it should run well.
Thanks Geezer101.
So I'm looking at the QFT regulators online (I searched the heading on that ebay page http://www.ebay.com/itm/190543394882...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) which I assume have the same design as the one Pennyman1 linked in that other thread. It has one IN and two OUT ports. ????? I know in but why two outs? The return to tank line is connected on the fuel pump, where would the second Out line connect?
Also what fittings do I need? It has to reduce from 3/8 NPT but I have no idea. I think I'm going to take some pics and post to let you guys see what I'm working with. It's beat up but it should run well.
You can see the setup. except for adding a new head, new rad, new hoses and hammering a freeze plug into the exhaust mani port after whatever was in it popped out and a new battery last month It is as I bought it. IDK what wires to trash and I suspect the carbs choke don't work right since I sometimes have to hold the butterfly open to get it to start. It probably could use a new coil. I'd like to remove all of the excess wiring to clean up the motor compartment. Oh yea I replaced the heater with a good used one. Attachment 16631Attachment 16632Attachment 16633
Been busy. I haven't got the pressure reducing valve yet. I did replace the dist cap as I mentioned the other is cracked. I also tried to check the timing and I think I may have found bad news. The dist is rotated all the way toward the firewall hitting the stop. I could not read the actual degrees of the timing (could not find the spec in my chilton either) but the two marks I made when I replaced the belts are lining up with the timing light on.
IDK if I moved or rotated the dist shaft a bit when I replaced the head or not. I do not think I made any mistakes doing the belts. Turns out it was a fortunate moment to do this as a cap that blocks the coolant hose connection off one of the heater hose T's on the intake mani broke while it was idling and that would have lost me another head if it happened on the Hwy.
We need an edit function :)
I forgot to mention yhe motor sounds like it is idling high.
Try removing the distributor and re-engaging it one gear tooth, then attempt to set your timing. If you have to turn the distributor all the way counter clockwise/away from the firewall to get it to fire, then you have the weird timing phenomenon where it's optimal setting is in between teeth. This can be sorted out by taking the distributor out and rotating the rotor shaft 180 degrees, then swapping the distributor leads so #4 lead is now #1 and #3 is now #2. This happens from time to time and is really frustrating to rectify if you've never come across it before. Spent a couple of hours swearing at an engine trying to figure out why I couldn't get more than a cough out it even though I had good spark and fuel...
RECAP-It's running. It is my second rig I use it to haul gravel and junk. This week I had to start using it daily and it was running really well the only issue being the dieseling when I shut it off which I think is the extra gas that is sitting in the manifold due to the pump pressure. Someone in this thread asked what I had the timing set and I couldn't answer with a specific setting so when I changed out my cracked cap yesterday I decided to check the timing and see if I could lower it. That is when I realized I could not rotate toward the firewall (clockwise) any more and it still needed to go that way to lower how fast it was idling. It's rain today I'll wait for better weather at the weekend to get into removing the dist. if I pull it straight out and hold that position, which way and how much do I rotate the shaft?
Hey Pennyman Sorry I wasn't paying attention that link on ebay has a bad pic and I did not scroll down. I thought it was a different brand but its actually the same brand as the link I found and it has free shipping! The brand website wanted to charge me $12.95 just for shipping. I ordered it and I will probably get another rebuild kit just to make sure the needle valve is good.
I think you need to pull the distributor out and bump it one tooth forward (clockwise) to compensate for all the ignition advance then rotate the distributor body counter clockwise to retard the timing. If you have to retard the distributor all the way counter clockwise to get it to fire then you've got the 'half tooth out' phenomenon and will need to reset your distributor as per my previous post.
When I turn the dizzy to set timing turning it to the left or counter clockwise it gets going faster, when I turn it right or clockwise it slows down. It is right now on full stop up against the slot the hold down is in. Do you still think I need to rotate the directions you say Geezer?
It still needs to slow down not speed up. It has no problem running its just not set to optimum.
It looks like you have a combination of issues going on. Maybe idle stop set too high on the carb + advance on the distributor out. Try winding back your idle stop to drop the rpms right down, then adjust the distributor. Both of the over adjustments are trying to compensate for each other (IMO anyway). Point a timing light at it to get the actual ignition timing figured out, then reset your idle so you have a base figure to work from. Once you got it in the ball park I would then recommend dynamic tuning it which is a simple procedure (well, close to dynamic tuning as possible).
Get a friend to hold your engine rpm's @ 2000, then adjust the distributor until you hit a sweet spot where the rpm's jump by themselves and dial it back a touch. It is hard to accurately set all the timing perfectly but tuning it to run at it's near optimal rpm's for day to day driving will make a noticeable improvement.
Let us know how you go. :thumbup:
Thanks Geez. I think I must have missed a tooth on the belt or replaced the dizzy improperly.
I’m flirting with the idea of getting a new carb instead of trying to rebuild this one again. I just cannot find clear instructions to be able to do much more than change the needle valve and the other easily figured out parts. Most of the kit is tossed when I am done. Weber's page and staff are not as helpful as you might expect them to be.
I looked up the 32/36DGAV and I got this page. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32-3...22680.033b.htm That $199 is $100 less than it was the last time I looked on that site. It looks exactly like the one I have. Then I clicked the tab to conversion kits and I find this page http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Webe...ports-s/29.htm The price here for the 32/36DGAV is $269 and it seems to be the same carb but there is no picture.
Am I missing something or are these both the same carb for different prices?
My motor is stripped its basically the carb, the fuel line, and the throttle cable and a wire from the coil to the choke which I suspect doesn’t work as it should since I sometimes have to hold it open to get started. There are pics of my motor in one of the previous posts in this thread.
Do not buy from webercarbsdirect - they are knockoff junk carbs - the black choke cover and stickers that say weber are the tipoffs. Only buy a redline weber - they are real Spanish made carbs. Your under hood picture shows a beige choke cover - that is a real weber. The float adjustment is 1/8 inch from the cover with the cover held vertically and float pivot at the top. Look up the thread for how to adjust the choke to have it work properly.
OK that makes the attitude I remember on the phone make more sense. Redlines high res pic of the expanded breakdown isn't working. I'm waiting for the pressure regulator to arrive. I will install it and see what that does before I alter anything else.
OK that makes the attitude I remember on the phone make more sense. Redlines high res pic of the expanded breakdown isn't working. I'm waiting for the pressure regulator to arrive. I will install it and see what that does before I alter anything else.
If you belt timing marks are lined up correctly then it'll all come down to the distributor (and the idle speed adjustment seeming you are having problems taming the idle rpm). The pressure regulator should help a heap with the other running issues.
I got the pressure regulator installed. Dang I am not on my game I had to try several times and lost one self tapping screw before I figured out to put the nipple on the carb in the other side. It idles a lot lower and seems to do good at low speeds. It still doesn't do well when punching it or on hills. It feels like its flooding when I do that still. When I first got it this thing had power and torque on all inclines.
I looked up redline weber http://www.redlineweber.com/ the page is sort of IDK pointless as most of the links don;t work for me. I just called to ask about setting the carb up and about rebuild kits and the guy tells me "we don't sell anything" When I asked what the point of his website was he well he spoke but since i have no answer in my mind he clearly did not answer me. He said Cars unlimited sells reline stuff and some other joint. I searched cars unlimited and a lot of people use that name. Nothing obviously a car parts or carb store.
I found this page http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm and I am going to try it and to get my timing at I think its supposed to be 5btdc. I really cannot make out the marks very well I did see that the TDC mark is to the left of where I marked the timing belt cover in silver sharpie. I am going to say that is probably the correct timing mark as that is the sort of thing I would do instead of marking TDC and then having to figure out the correct position.
I looked up setting the choke on here yesterday and when I went out there my choke won't let the butterfly close. I can close it by hand but it comes open when I let go. I took it off and the pin that sticks out will only travel half of that semi circle it pokes out of. I suspect I may have put the carb back together improperly. Let me know if this sounds right I am going to try to set that timing on that mark and do lean best idle.
Oh yea he said they dealt in technical support. ?? But he didn't have any comprehension whey I was confused by the website. It certainly doesn't explicitly say that is what it is for.
OK I have had some success. I messed with the timing and the lean best idle instructions mostly tuning by ear after I knew I was on by the timing light. It has gone much better this second test drive but its a bad time of day lots of traffic. I did get to punch it and try to wind it out in all gears as like it used to but as it topped out at the top of 1 and 2 it started making a funny noise like something was not happy. It also has a clunk in it like an old motor cept this one only has 111K on it. I think that may be due to when I overheated and blew the head.
It went up the big hill a lot better I didn't feel like it was flooding at all. I could probably have accelerated through 60 if that jerk in front of me had a life.
Humour me by trying out a dynamic ignition tune as per my earlier post. As the Weber is an all mechanical secondary carb I think if you can nail the rpm range where the second throat opens up, you should get a good improvement in midrange power upwards. Glad it's running a whole lot better now. These things try our patience...
OK I'll have to look into getting an RPM guage then. Have no idea how to hook one up. Always lernin huh?:)
If you know anyone with a dwell meter they come with a built in tach. There isn't a lot of demand for a dwell/tach meter these days but if you're working on old school they still come in handy.
Went and got this http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-aut...kit-95670.html It is pretty useless as a tach. It read 25 when I hooked it up and it was at best 900. I messed with it anyway and screwed up my gains. I will get back to it tomorrow after I get my money back on that tool.
Looks like I need to rebuild the carb as I made a mistake last time. I will have to wait until I get a real tach to do the dynamic tune Geez.
You know what's causing it to run poorly now - it won't take much to get it to a point where you'll be real happy with it. :thumbup:
I searched on YT “rebuild WEBER carb 32/36 dg” and it brought up a lot of stuff. I found this guy who has 4 vids and I think I know what is wrong with the Carb aside from me probably putting the choke together wrong. I had no idea the jets and emulsion tubes and the jets that hold them in were sized. I think that goes for the two items he screws into the sides as well apparently his carb was rebuilt by someone like me who had no idea these parts were not the same, as all his jets and stuff were in the wrong place too. I’ve ordered the kit Pennyman gave me the link to and I hope by the time it arrives I find enough info on doing this to get it right. I may need a magnifying glass to read the jets.
This guy is very informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v-Dn_G3YxA
Geez the light was perfect this morning and I got the timing dead on the mark. I was right I did mark the setting not TDC. I see no point in messing with the carb adjustments any longer until I rebuild it properly.
I took the carb out and I have taken it apart. It is as I suspected. The jets were off. The primary is 155 and it was in the secondary slot the secondary is 140. The two jets that hold the emulsion tubes in were also in the wrong slots. The correct slots 170 Primary and 160 secondary. The emulsion tubes have thrown me since they are both F50!? IDK what to make of that as the primary is supposed to be larger by quite a bit according to that video. There are two jets on opposite sides that the guy called "idler jets" anyway only one had a o ring and they were oddly shaped so they only went into the correct hole. I've added a pic. The fatter one was is on the primary side. Attachment 17187
I've cleaned it up and just waiting for the new rebuild kit as the diaphragm for the pump broke had to sand off the gasket materiel its made of.
So is the Emulsion tubes being the same right? Should I get a different one for the primary?
O.k. I posted up jetting sizes in relation to a 2 litre engine as taken from a Weber tuning hand book by Pat Braden- check out the link
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44111
...elsupremo used these jetting specs and they were on the money. :thumbup:
I looked at the picture above the specs and the two in the pics would be the idle jets according to that picture. They have no size numbers on them. As for the rest of the sizes the ones I list are what it had when I bought it and until I rebuilt it it worked fine. As I mentioned I had no idea the parts that were so similar had differences.
So the main jets must be at the bottom of the bowl, the air correction jets must be the ones on top of the emulsion tubes.
I just noticed the 50 on the secondary idle jet on the right in the pic. I'll look closer at the primary idle jet for a mark. Let me know if I worked out the part names correctly.
I'l paste a copy of that pst here for anyone who comes here in future
Here are the the jetting sizes for a 32/36 DGAV relating to a 2000cc engine-
Main jet - (primary throat) 1.35
(secondary throat) 1.30
Air Correction - (primary throat) 1.75
(secondary throat) 1.45
Emulsion tube - (primary throat) F50
(secondary throat) F66
Idle jet (primary throat) 0.50
(secondary throat) 0.50
Idle air (primary throat) 1.50
(secondary throat) 0.70
*bearing in mind that the venturis are the right diameter for your engine, this is only a base line guide.
I've used 'primary' instead of the term 'progressive' - I think it's easier to understand. And the jetting seems to be too big for your engine, especially the main jets (the above chart shows the primary main being the bigger jet)
This morning I went out and looked at the primary Idle jet again with the magnifyer and it has a 60 on it. I think this carb might be something a little different. I'm not sure if it matters so I took so pics of the body It was made in Spain stamped on the bottom half and I've taken a pic of the stamped numbers. DGAV 33B and either a partial 7 or 1Attachment 17188 the other spot next to it is stamped 157 01 Attachment 17189
I noticed a piece of plastic on the cloth under the bottom half of the carb when I set on its bottom after taking the pic. It is longish and L shaped along most of its length. IDK where it goes. I picked up the top to look at its stamp and when I turned it float down the rectangular piece with a slot in it fell out. It is made of the same plastic but stained darker.
Any help on where they go? The Redline Weber site high res diagram link does not open and they have not returned my call about it since yesterday afternoon. Attachment 17190
Thanks guys you are priceless.
I've found the expanded parts diagram on this site. I'm printing it. The two parts are the dust plate and dust plate plug. Still no idea where they go. Also I mentioned previously that the choke did not move along its full range I found out that the adjustment screw was blocking it. ???? I guess I'll figure out how to set it properly once I reinstall.
I have the kit and am installing it slowly. I need to know where the dust plate and dust plate plug go. Can anyone assist?
Figured it out. Pics The first one shows the plate plug partially in its spot and the plate cover on the bottom of the slot it goes in. The second one shows the plate cover in place inside the choke linkage slot to the top butterfly's. You have to look close up. It is a pressure fit.
Attachment 17191Attachment 17192
Attachment 17193Funny it's an Italian kit with this in it. I assume the narrow section goes on the secondary side but am unsure. The carb is back together. The float is set at 35mm or 1&12/32" with gasket per the instructions. More research I'll be back to report. :)
I started it and it ran awful. I had set the choke to fully closed (its in the 60'sF here) then I adjusted it to be open about 1/8th inch. This got me started it stayed at idle so I drove it around the block to warm it up. I had to over gas it many times to keep it going. It died once I stopped and I couldn't keep it going. I had the mixture screw at two turns out and the idle speed screw at 1/2 turn after touching. It finally started running better as I screwed the mixture screw in. It did best all the way in !!?? I drove it and it had great throttle response almost as good as I remember it was when I bought it. When I stopped it dieseled. So of course I tried adjusting it and it started loping and not wanting to run. I have it at the mixture screw 1/2 turn out and the idle speed screw is probably two turns after touching. Any advice?
I'm burned out. I will start again tomorrow as the rain has begun.
Oh yea that oddly narrowed end of the made in England spacer was self determining as the Weber spacer has the same oval hole smaller at one end. It did go to the secondary side.
I think I need to do this http://www.carburetion.com/mixtureadj.htm I had no idea those jets were adjustable!
Forgot to mention the dust plate did not go in that slot. It was jamming up the coke so I took it out. That pretty much destroyed it even though I removed the C clip. I would guess it is supposed to be slipped over that arm before the top is put on and ride loosely.
actually the secondary is the larger side of the gasket - 32 is the primary side, 36 is the secondary. One book I have for webers states that the primary barrel should be closest to the head for best performance - I have mounted these carbs both ways and have noticed no difference in performance.
OK Then I reversed a lot of things yet its improved how it runs?? I wonder what I fixed? Today I got it to idle by using the lean best idle method. It was warm enough out the choke was fully open when I started. It loped badly with the mixture screw out 2 turns. I ended up with it in to about 3/4 turn. I test drove it and it was great on the flat under 40. Accelerating to Hwy speed on a hill it backfired as second gear wound up near 35ish (it used to go to 50 and not even complain) and it backfired in the carb. It did it again in 3rd gear near the top of winding out also well below where it used to go. It was doing this before I rebuilt it apparently switching the primary/secondary jets.) I got home and changed the timing to be faster as it was loping a bit. This left me with the mixture screw at 1/4 turn or less and the timing advanced past the mark I think I remember reading before. 5BTDC. I washed it and cleaned it up then did the same trip over the hill and it still backfired (smaller) yet it had more power in 4th as it kept accelerating as it climbed in 4th. This thing used to have tons of torque to pull up hills. Any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm disturbed by your information Pennyman1. I wonder if I shouldn't just order these jets as Geez linked to and install them????? Here are the the jetting sizes for a 32/36 DGAV relating to a 2000cc engine- Main jet - (primary throat) 1.35 (secondary throat) 1.30 Air Correction - (primary throat) 1.75 (secondary throat) 1.45 Emulsion tube - (primary throat) F50 (secondary throat) F66 Idle jet (primary throat) 0.50 (secondary throat) 0.50 Idle air (primary throat) 1.50 (secondary throat) 0.70 I wonder what changed since it ran so well before I broke the balancer belt and kept driving it not knowing that is what happened. I only discovered that after I blew the head gasket in an overheat. I've posted for a radiator fan shroud in Wanted.
I have a suspicion that it's all coming down to tuning. If it was running great before you took the head off, and the carb was set up correctly then it's the only factor that has changed. Seeming you don't have a tach fitted then the nearest reference you will have is watching for the point where the secondary opens with the engine running and adjusting the distributor as per my previous post.
No it was running well until there was a big bang while hauling a heavy load on a hill many many years ago. The head blew about 2 summers back. I expect that bang was when the balancer belt blew. I figured the noise wasn't important as the motor did not stall, I had no idea there was a balancer belt. It had noticeably less power since then. It is better now but nothing like what it was. I expect it will be down to tuning. I don't think I can float over it and see into the carb while turning the dist :) I'll keep playing at it. At least it didn't diesel when I shut it off this last time.
You should be able to see the linkages moving on the side of the carb so you won't have to put your face over the throats and scorch your eyebrows :lmao:I think you were lucky the engine didn't experience catastrophic damage but it's unusual that it is still down on power after repairs.
OK I think I get it.
Good morning. Another report with ambiguous results. :shrug:
Good news first, after all your help has helped :))
It started first try. That hasn't happened since I first "rebuilt" it about 7 or 8 years ago.
Dynamic timing; I held the linkage open, I didn't get close to the secondary kicking in but it had to be doing a lot more than 2k rpms. I fiddled with the dist and it didn't quite suddenly gain rpms but it did hit a spot where it would start to make the motor jump. I found the cross point as best I could and tested it. It ran up over the hill and did really well. Still not living up to my memory which I am starting to suspect is rose colored. So to justify all this work and money I went to get a load of gravel and it carried it home without any hesitation in the motor.
Now some things I did and noticed. The temp gauge has quit on me. The sensor is new when I did the head, and I was saving this for later the dash electrics tend to work intermittently this is mainly a problem with making turns. I never noticed the temp sensor quit before.
Since finding out I had the carb reversed, on a whim I stuck the screw driver in the Primary Idle jet and it was loose !!? I am sure I tightened it. I had added a O ring as it had none. Anyway when I turned it in the idle picked up! It is fully in now. So it does affect how the carb runs and now I think I would have to floor it to get the secondary to kick in to have turning that side adjust at all. Don't want to do that it sounded wound out just holding it to dynamic time it.
Another thing is you might notice in the pics I posted there is a spring I added for return on the linkage. It seems more responsive and starts out from a stop better with it off which made me wonder why I was using it. Then on my way home from the gravel pickup it started idling very high at stops. When I got home prepared to mess with it more I noticed the linkage had not fully returned.??? I'm sure that is another can of worms Yippee. :grin:
When I said first rebuilt "it" I meant the carb.
Try a squirt of WD40 on the linkages and throttle - see if that helps. Might be binding just a tiny bit. The spring was there to get it to return off throttle so maybe try a lighter spring (it 'shouldn't' really make a difference but we've heard that before). You don't want to get bitten by a stuck throttle :shakehead:
OK I came to me as I lay in bed last night that the primary would be the side that the gas squirted into first. So I looked this morning and the side away from the head is the side that gets the gas first. So that should be primary no? If so the changes I made were correct.
I am going to start another thread to ask about the dash electrics and the Temp gauge. It's also developed a leak from the grill between the hood and the windshield. IDK what the correct name for it is. Maybe I'll just make one thread with a list of all the issues that don't stop it but make it less nice to use that I can think of.
Thank you Geez and Pennyman. I'll post back here to update in a while. I'm gonna work out the gauges and turn signals in another thread.
Pennyman, I've been searching and I can't locate this resource. I feel like I have the dumb, can you link me?Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
I think this might be the pageQuote:
Originally Posted by Wote
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2258-G63B-2-0L-Cam-Timing-Mark
To answer you Pennyman1 I am pretty sure I got the timing marks and idler pulley correct. I watched many many videos, I think you gave me advice here and I had my Haynes. I used it today and it ran pretty good, not as good as my memory of it when I first got it. Anyway when I get back to working on it I might recheck that I have the timing belt and distributor installed correctly. As I remember now there was a mark on both the cam gear and the block on the left. Camoits pic doesn't show any marking on the block to line the cam mark up with.
Hey 85ram50, kind of unrelated but what's that throttle cable attachment (to the carb) in your first set of pictures? I haven't seen one like that and it looks 100% better than the shit-bolt that I've got.
I got it at an independent auto store. Told the guy what I had and that's what he gave me. The end piece pops off the linkage so you can move it out of the way with no wrench. It's actually really cheap and took me a while to get it set where it would work and not pop off. It is very similar to this though it was a lot cheaper. Now that I think about it I probably modified it so it would suit me. I think I drilled something out and used a larger screw. On mine the body is alum and that clip at the end is stainless or possibly chrome plated. It may have come in a kit with other parts. If you can't find one I'll go down there and find out what I bought so you can have it ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wote
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-S-1034-Carburetor-End-Adapter-Linkage-for-Lokar-Throttle-Cable-/400805193036?hash=item5d51d9e54c:g:eAgAAOSwQPlV-G3m&vxp=mtr
I just found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-We...-/201426105250 The piece in the upper right corner is what I have on the end of my throttle cable and the piece it connects to on my carb looks a lot like the piece in the lower right corner. I do not recall spending that much money on it.