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Thread: Weber carb help

  1. #1

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    Weber carb help

    It's been a while I have been working on other projects. So I found out that the puddle of gas in my intake is due to the float in the carb being misadjusted. I followed instructions and made it level so I am unsure what to do to get it set so there is not overflow. Can anyone tell me which way to set it (above or below level) so that the gas doesn't overflow?

  2. #2



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    See my post response to your other thread.
    Pennyman1
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    Thanks That isn't my thread that;s why I asked for the answer here.

  4. #4

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    OK I looked and didn't find much with search. So maybe provide a link to that regulator data? I should mention that before the pop that apparently blew the balancer belt it ran great totally responsive fast etc. So I don't doubt yo Pennyman1 but I wonder what might have changed to make me need a regulator. Since the balancer belt apparently broke its been weak and it sat for a few years. Even with the new head after overheat and new Tbelt and Balancer Belt it doesn't like to jump and go, it drags like its bogging and the gas smell is real bad. So I might have bigger motor issues but I am focusing on the carb right now to stop the gas from overflowing. It needs a new cap somehow the new one that I put on when I changed the head is cracked.

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    the fact you ran it for a while without the regulator may have screwed up the needle and seat - it is attached to the float to shut off fuel flow when the bowl is full. Once the needle and seat don't seal, then you get more gas than it needs and it overflows into the manifold. Here is the link for the pressure regulator: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...sure+regulator
    Pennyman1
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  6. #6

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    Thanks. It ran fine (still had gas smell) and hauled some heavy loads when I first got it. It only started having problems after the big pop with a load on a hill, which was apparently the Balancer belt. After that it had no umph but it still ran fine if I was gentle. I tried rebuilding the carb with no luck. Then it blew the head about 8 years later on a long highway trip in hot weather. It has never got back the umph it had when I first bought it.

    I set the float level as the rebuild kit and weber site say to do. Both kits I have done had new needles. Do you know which way to set the float to make it fill the bowl less?
    I will look into getting a guage to test my pressure then if its over 5psi I will make the change if not ?????.

  7. #7

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    The no luck refers to no improvement in getting the umph back.

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    what are you setting the timing to? and are you sure you followed the correct timing belt install on here, not the manual? That is the #1 cause of poor performance with the G63b, the belt being off 1 tooth.
    Pennyman1
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    I used this site, the manual, ETGC and a Dodge forum for assistance in doing the head and timing belt. I was careful since the balancer belt is so tricky. I have the timing set to whatever the standard is. I figure the dieseling (I have not mentioned) is due to whatever the carb issue is. I just happened to ask an old mechanic about the puddle of gas in my intake he said it was the float and i just got my Dakota running right so I turned to this so I can keep it going and good enough to sell if that comes up. It bothers me the 3.9 Dalkota gets better mileage than this 4 banger.

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    Oh yea lots of YT videos showing how to do the belts and warning of how tricky it is to get the timing and balancer belts right. It starts and runs well its only when I hit the gas hard or try to wind out the gears accelerating quickly that I get trouble.

  11. #11

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    When you get the overfuelling problem sorted you'll be able to tune it up. All the small issues combined turn a good engine into a thirsty donkey. Guys are getting 25mpg+ using a Weber and gaining HP in the process so it's worth it in the end.

  12. #12

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    Thanks Geezer101.
    So I'm looking at the QFT regulators online (I searched the heading on that ebay page http://www.ebay.com/itm/190543394882...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) which I assume have the same design as the one Pennyman1 linked in that other thread. It has one IN and two OUT ports. ????? I know in but why two outs? The return to tank line is connected on the fuel pump, where would the second Out line connect?
    Also what fittings do I need? It has to reduce from 3/8 NPT but I have no idea. I think I'm going to take some pics and post to let you guys see what I'm working with. It's beat up but it should run well.

  13. #13

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    Thanks Geezer101.
    So I'm looking at the QFT regulators online (I searched the heading on that ebay page http://www.ebay.com/itm/190543394882...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) which I assume have the same design as the one Pennyman1 linked in that other thread. It has one IN and two OUT ports. ????? I know in but why two outs? The return to tank line is connected on the fuel pump, where would the second Out line connect?
    Also what fittings do I need? It has to reduce from 3/8 NPT but I have no idea. I think I'm going to take some pics and post to let you guys see what I'm working with. It's beat up but it should run well.

  14. #14

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    You can see the setup. except for adding a new head, new rad, new hoses and hammering a freeze plug into the exhaust mani port after whatever was in it popped out and a new battery last month It is as I bought it. IDK what wires to trash and I suspect the carbs choke don't work right since I sometimes have to hold the butterfly open to get it to start. It probably could use a new coil. I'd like to remove all of the excess wiring to clean up the motor compartment. Oh yea I replaced the heater with a good used one. Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15

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    Been busy. I haven't got the pressure reducing valve yet. I did replace the dist cap as I mentioned the other is cracked. I also tried to check the timing and I think I may have found bad news. The dist is rotated all the way toward the firewall hitting the stop. I could not read the actual degrees of the timing (could not find the spec in my chilton either) but the two marks I made when I replaced the belts are lining up with the timing light on.
    IDK if I moved or rotated the dist shaft a bit when I replaced the head or not. I do not think I made any mistakes doing the belts. Turns out it was a fortunate moment to do this as a cap that blocks the coolant hose connection off one of the heater hose T's on the intake mani broke while it was idling and that would have lost me another head if it happened on the Hwy.

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    We need an edit function
    I forgot to mention yhe motor sounds like it is idling high.

  17. #17

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    Try removing the distributor and re-engaging it one gear tooth, then attempt to set your timing. If you have to turn the distributor all the way counter clockwise/away from the firewall to get it to fire, then you have the weird timing phenomenon where it's optimal setting is in between teeth. This can be sorted out by taking the distributor out and rotating the rotor shaft 180 degrees, then swapping the distributor leads so #4 lead is now #1 and #3 is now #2. This happens from time to time and is really frustrating to rectify if you've never come across it before. Spent a couple of hours swearing at an engine trying to figure out why I couldn't get more than a cough out it even though I had good spark and fuel...

  18. #18

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    RECAP-It's running. It is my second rig I use it to haul gravel and junk. This week I had to start using it daily and it was running really well the only issue being the dieseling when I shut it off which I think is the extra gas that is sitting in the manifold due to the pump pressure. Someone in this thread asked what I had the timing set and I couldn't answer with a specific setting so when I changed out my cracked cap yesterday I decided to check the timing and see if I could lower it. That is when I realized I could not rotate toward the firewall (clockwise) any more and it still needed to go that way to lower how fast it was idling. It's rain today I'll wait for better weather at the weekend to get into removing the dist. if I pull it straight out and hold that position, which way and how much do I rotate the shaft?

  19. #19

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    Hey Pennyman Sorry I wasn't paying attention that link on ebay has a bad pic and I did not scroll down. I thought it was a different brand but its actually the same brand as the link I found and it has free shipping! The brand website wanted to charge me $12.95 just for shipping. I ordered it and I will probably get another rebuild kit just to make sure the needle valve is good.

  20. #20

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    I think you need to pull the distributor out and bump it one tooth forward (clockwise) to compensate for all the ignition advance then rotate the distributor body counter clockwise to retard the timing. If you have to retard the distributor all the way counter clockwise to get it to fire then you've got the 'half tooth out' phenomenon and will need to reset your distributor as per my previous post.

  21. #21

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    When I turn the dizzy to set timing turning it to the left or counter clockwise it gets going faster, when I turn it right or clockwise it slows down. It is right now on full stop up against the slot the hold down is in. Do you still think I need to rotate the directions you say Geezer?

  22. #22

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    It still needs to slow down not speed up. It has no problem running its just not set to optimum.

  23. #23

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    It looks like you have a combination of issues going on. Maybe idle stop set too high on the carb + advance on the distributor out. Try winding back your idle stop to drop the rpms right down, then adjust the distributor. Both of the over adjustments are trying to compensate for each other (IMO anyway). Point a timing light at it to get the actual ignition timing figured out, then reset your idle so you have a base figure to work from. Once you got it in the ball park I would then recommend dynamic tuning it which is a simple procedure (well, close to dynamic tuning as possible).

    Get a friend to hold your engine rpm's @ 2000, then adjust the distributor until you hit a sweet spot where the rpm's jump by themselves and dial it back a touch. It is hard to accurately set all the timing perfectly but tuning it to run at it's near optimal rpm's for day to day driving will make a noticeable improvement.
    Let us know how you go.

  24. #24

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    Thanks Geez. I think I must have missed a tooth on the belt or replaced the dizzy improperly.
    I’m flirting with the idea of getting a new carb instead of trying to rebuild this one again. I just cannot find clear instructions to be able to do much more than change the needle valve and the other easily figured out parts. Most of the kit is tossed when I am done. Weber's page and staff are not as helpful as you might expect them to be.
    I looked up the 32/36DGAV and I got this page. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32-3...22680.033b.htm That $199 is $100 less than it was the last time I looked on that site. It looks exactly like the one I have. Then I clicked the tab to conversion kits and I find this page http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Webe...ports-s/29.htm The price here for the 32/36DGAV is $269 and it seems to be the same carb but there is no picture.

    Am I missing something or are these both the same carb for different prices?

    My motor is stripped its basically the carb, the fuel line, and the throttle cable and a wire from the coil to the choke which I suspect doesn’t work as it should since I sometimes have to hold it open to get started. There are pics of my motor in one of the previous posts in this thread.

  25. #25



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    Do not buy from webercarbsdirect - they are knockoff junk carbs - the black choke cover and stickers that say weber are the tipoffs. Only buy a redline weber - they are real Spanish made carbs. Your under hood picture shows a beige choke cover - that is a real weber. The float adjustment is 1/8 inch from the cover with the cover held vertically and float pivot at the top. Look up the thread for how to adjust the choke to have it work properly.
    Pennyman1
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