Weber install questions 2.0 G63B

Ive searched around, but am not having any luck. The weber instructions leave something to be desired.

Ive got the old carb off, I think ive read enough to understand that ALL the vacuum lines go away with the exception of the Distributor advance line.

With that being said, what about the vacuum lines that are going into the intake manifold? Pictures show what Im talking about as best as I could get them.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...pse7qhdsgh.jpg
(this is in the middle of the manifold)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psbhx36ekg.jpg
(This is below the distributor towards the front of the engine)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psazxzcn2k.jpg
(This is on the manifold towards the firewall.)

If it all needs to be plugged , how would I do that since some of the are attached in groups and not individual vacuum hoses.

Im trying to take as many pictures as I can since there seems to be a lack of them for the installation part, that is unless Ive missed them.

Let's see what you got - the vacuum barbs that you have indicated at the front and rear of the inlet manifold are thermal switches. These gadgets themselves do not have any vacuum from inside the manifold but act like thermostats. Disconnecting them will not result in any vacuum leaks. The beauty of using a Weber is the deletion of all of these pollution/emissions control mechanisms and the related vacuum lines that go with them. Does the Weber have a vacuum barb on it for distributor advance? If it does I would remove the vacuum barb Christmas tree and install a grub screw/bung in the hole to tidy it up instead of trying to block off all the individual vac ports.

+1 to Geezer but keep that thermo switch with the two green plastic prongs in the spare parts drawer -- those break all the time, are surprisingly expensive to replace and a fellow member on this board may need one.

Thanks !!! Guess I need to track down a proper plug for these and keep everything just in case

Ok I spent a couple hours at the various parts stores and home depot looking for the necessary bolts to plug above mentioned holes......without success

Im pretty sure the 2 "thermo switches" are M16 x 1.25 but I cant find anything in that thread pitch/size to test my theory.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ps3mba08o1.jpg
Yes I broke one of the barbs ...sorry Noahwins it was way too brittle to save.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...pshq1ey2oh.jpg

The middle christmas tree vacuum thing I thought was M10 x 1.0, but when I bought said bolt for a plug it wouldnt thread, so maybe its 1.25 pitch instead. Ill have to test it out later.


I did pick up some aluminum sheeting to use for the block off plates for the EGR and the Mechanical fuel pump.

With that being said is there anything I need to do to properly block off the fuel pump? Theres a rod coming out of the head, do I need to remove that or leave it in place?

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psr7nd5sir.jpg

Also theres 3 lines running into the mechanical pump...What are they? 1 line from tank to pump, 2 lines from the pump to the carb. (1 is fuel supply and the other is return) Is this correct???????

I was hoping to have most of the little stuff plugged up and ready for the weber to go on before I lost day light, but that didnt happen...such is life.

Yes remove that rod if your going to go with a electric fuel pump .you will need to make a block off plate for where the mechanical fuel pump went .Also they sell assorted v caps/plugs to cap the vaccum lines at auto zone or look on Amazon there not expensive and you will need verious sizes anyways. Also fuel lines are inlet and outlet and return as this shows ,,,,\/

I bought various plugs for the barbs, but would really like to plug them up for a cleaner, leak free install. The rubber plugs will have to do if I cant find anything with the proper thread pitch.

Man this has taken a lot longer than I anticipated, but I want to do it right and not re visit this install because I cut some corners.

You know what they say - a short cut is the longest distance between 2 points. Try using plumbers fittings for thread matching - might be gas, not sure. Be warned. When it comes to Mitsubishi and non bolt threaded holes they are cruel b*stards. They have been known to use BSPT threads which are tapered.

Did you take those parts with you to the store, most parts store will have thread count, size, pitch indexes.

^ yes I took everything with me to the stores. After geezer mentioned the BSPT thread info I noticed that one of them definitely looks tapered so more than likely the other 2 are as well.

Im going to go by a dedicated fastener/nuts/bolts store and see what I can get.

So I have given up trying to find the correct thread pitch plugs for these holes and will have to settle with rubber capped barbs.

Im sure that you could re thread the holes, but thats more than I want to attempt at this time.

So I will push forward without my plugs.

It's BSPT. Japanese cars use it for water lines. BSPT is very close to NPT but doesn't quite fit. You can order BSPT set screws and plugs off eBay or McMaster-Carr type outlets.

They should be cheep cheep. A couple of bucks worse case scenario. It's one of those little jobs you can do anytime. The manifold will look nice and clean when you get around to it. Good luck with the Weber install unc25! :)

Couldnt find the bolts needed for the plugs, so i gave in and put the original ones back in. I started looking for the fuel pump location and hose routing and got the EGR and fuel pump block off plates completed.

One last question....theres a coolant line thats supposed to have a plug put into it from the Weber kit.....Im assuming its the line at the back of the manifold off a T that went into old carb. Ive marked the hose with the Blue dot and circled the general area of the hose in Red.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psr7byacdo.jpg

Yes you need to plug that line - did you plug the port in the manifold that went to the carb? It is under the carb and you tap the hole and screw in an Allen set screw with pipe dope to prevent coolant leaks under the carb adaptor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Yes you need to plug that line - did you plug the port in the manifold that went to the carb? It is under the carb and you tap the hole and screw in an Allen set screw with pipe dope to prevent coolant leaks under the carb adaptor.

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You can do this no problemo. Buy a cheap ass metric tap set with an M8 tap in the kit and find some small files. The cheap thread taps have metal burrs all the way down the cutting threads - run a small file through every cutting thread and it will make into a decent enough thread tapping tool (if you don't file the burrs off it will shred anything you try to tap a thread into and the bolts going into your newly tapped holes will feel sloppy - if you can even get the bolts to bite...) Then use the M8 tap on the coolant gallery you want to block off as it is exactly the same diameter as the carb mounting stud holes. Buy a bottle of thread locker and a pack of assorted metric grub screws and seal the deal!

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psh9zn1qms.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psdowqkmja.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psiu2qoqmi.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...pslye1zwy4.jpg

following this one

Penny and Geezer, thanks for this info. I re-read through install instructions last night and saw no mention of this, but I think its a great idea.

Im still struggling with fuel pump mounting location and will need to add this to the To-Do list.

Ive got pictures and hopefully will be able to scan and link pics with some of the Weber instructions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maxdsm

Yes remove that rod if your going to go with a electric fuel pump .you will need to make a block off plate for where the mechanical fuel pump went .Also they sell assorted v caps/plugs to cap the vaccum lines at auto zone or look on Amazon there not expensive and you will need verious sizes anyways. Also fuel lines are inlet and outlet and return as this shows ,,,,\/

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http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...1&d=1447632024

Only just noticed this and this is important. In the image where it shows "fuel return to tank" is incorrect. That fuel outlet should go to the accelerator enrichment pump assembly on the side of the Mikuni carb (top fuel inlet barb on the pump housing - the square gadget with 2 parallel fuel barbs on it). The fuel return line then connects to the bottom outlet on the enrichment pump assembly. If anyone was to attempt to connect up a stock carb from that diagram it would cause them no end of grief. :thumbup:

Geezer..So that is incorrect for installing a Weber as op is ???? That is what I have followed that I believe brad posted when installing his Weber at least this is what I followed. Could you possibly draw a corrected fuel pump diagram to Weber for us much appreciated.

Take note that my post was in regards to a stock Mikuni install. That image configuration for a Weber is 'correct' (bearing in mind the fuel pressure issue that goes with using a Weber) I'm having some issues of my own with the Weber carb I pulled from a wrecked Lancia Beta. I've solved the fuel bowl vent connection but there's some sort of accelerator/vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the throttle linkage. Got me stumped how to rig it up (or even how it works) but I've got a feeling I'll need it when the A/C is operational...

So with all this talk of fuel lines , etc.......since I'm doing an electric pump and the carb has a block off for the return, should I just leave it go returnless?

What's the benefit of returning the fuel to tank, similar to oem setup?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unc25

So with all this talk of fuel lines , etc.......since I'm doing an electric pump and the carb has a block off for the return, should I just leave it go returnless?

What's the benefit of returning the fuel to tank, similar to oem setup?

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On my truck i do not run a fuel return i capped it off and also running electric pump no fuel reg. either. Now the problem if you hooked it up with no way to restrict it you would not have enough fuel for the carb bowl it would run in then out. Now i thought about this but have not yet done it, But if you did want to hook up a return off the weber i would install a check valve say like a 4.5 psi or even a 5 psi this would ensure enough fuel for carb and any excess would be returned to the tank. Supposedly the benefit is saving fuel by only giving the carb what it needs to operate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Take note that my post was in regards to a stock Mikuni install. That image configuration for a Weber is 'correct' (bearing in mind the fuel pressure issue that goes with using a Weber) I'm having some issues of my own with the Weber carb I pulled from a wrecked Lancia Beta. I've solved the fuel bowl vent connection but there's some sort of accelerator/vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the throttle linkage. Got me stumped how to rig it up (or even how it works) but I've got a feeling I'll need it when the A/C is operational...

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Got it . Thought you were talking about fuel pump install on the Weber. I stand corrected.thanks for the reply.

Got the fuel pump mounted up but still not Weber mounted. See my "build" post.

Maybe next weekend.... I need to get the M8 tap and grub screw though before I do it. If I dont I know Ill regret not taking this extra step.

Tapped and installed set/grub screw in coolant port!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psc1ybyfsm.jpg

I have another issue though...I think Im missing something(s) for the throttle cable to mount properly assuming I have mounted everything correctly. Take a look at the pics.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psigbgkdw9.jpg


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psqkztzmqs.jpg

"Boomerang" mounted on valve cover....I used the two bolts in the very center of the valve cover....dont know if this is correct, but it looked like the only logical place for it to go.


The Weber instructions say to recover the original throttle cable hold down from the original carburetor and mount it to the boomerang. I grabbed what I thought was the right bracket but now im starting to question myself. I had to break the original carb to get this thing off and it doesnt look like its the right thing at all.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psbrdy7mej.jpg

I found the "keyed" 12 volt source for the choke so im only a couple steps away from seeing if its gonna run.

flip the boomerang over - it will line the cable up properly. There should also be a piece that goes into the throttle bracket to attach the cable to - it looks like a nut with a post on it that goes into holes on the bracket.

I just installed a 32/36 last night on my 89 2.6 ram 50. i had to do some minor fabrication work to the cable hold down. i had to bend it for correct WOT position. and i had to redrill the dog leg to relocated the cable hold down ( closer to the carb) and i also had to renotch the throttle cable holder at the base of it. i got it to work properly and have the correct angle. but there is a little bit of flex in the "dogleg" at 7/8+ throttle. I'm going to re machine a new sold unit just to correct that flex.

Or get this linkage kit. Only need the bracket though .I called pierce manifolds and he sent me one for free.

Nice job with the coolant gallery block off :thumbup: Now I'll try to be diplomatic with this post - please clean your engine. I can barely make anything out in there. A paint brush and a can of non caustic oven cleaner will make short work of that mess (it's way less work than 5 cans of degreaser and creates less mess to clean up afterwards) You got a spanking new carb and it deserves to be the jewel on a shiny crown.

Geezer, don't worry..I plan on cleaning up a lot on this engine. It had a minimal maintenance and care life before I got her.

I need to get the throttle cable sorted and get her running. I can't believe it's taken this long to finish this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unc25

Geezer, don't worry..I plan on cleaning up a lot on this engine. It had a minimal maintenance and care life before I got her.

I need to get the throttle cable sorted and get her running. I can't believe it's taken this long to finish this.

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lol, I feel your pain. My L200 feels like the Sistine Chapel - just keep pluggin' away at it til it's done...and then you'll find all these 'little' things you need to do or want to add to it (insert much butt-hurt here with added wallet pains :rolleyes:)

Not sure if this can help you, You might be able to get a reference from it, or create something better.
Attachment 15087Attachment 15090

Shows carb cabling when I did my G63B. Ignore the red rectangles, those are cover plates that were made for hole blocks.

Thanks brad...I've been looking at a ton of pictures trying to figure this out. I emailed pierce manifolds (who I bought carb from) and they asked me to call them. Due to time differences I had to wait so I'll be calling them in a bit.

I spoke with the rep at Pierce manifolds and it didnt really go as I planned. Its difficult for me to explain over the phone and its equally as difficult for him to understand what Im talking about, so its wasnt really productive. The tech offered to reach out to Redline on my behalf and provided me with his email. I told him I would send him some pictures of my predicament and explain my confusions.

I took Pennyman's advice and flipped the boomerang over. I then mounted the original throttle cable holder on the boomerang and loosely draped the cable towards the carb.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psg2zfkq1d.jpg

I think I can rig the original throttle cable holder from the mikuni carb to work with the new position/setup.

I looked at another thread by Ramshorn and he linked a picture of the weber instaled on a 2.0....... (see link) http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...4&d=1349829286

It looks like this person modified the original cable hold down just as I was planning on doing.

I find it odd that you purchase a carb kit that is supposed to fit and work with the 2.6 and the 2.0 yet it doesnt seem to work for both motors as easily as one would think.

When I plugged the thermo valve holes in my manifold I used a 3/8" npt tap to open the holes up enough to get 3/8" npt brass plugs to thread in. The tap starts by hand for a few threads so the pitch is very close if not the same.

I would try to make a cable bracket that borrows 2 of the manifold mounting studs as an anchor point for the throttle cable. I'm having a similar problem with my weird 34 DATA carb - the bracket I've made holds it in the right place but flexes (and so far only has a single bolt holding it together), resulting in it being pulled out of alignment and eventually fouling the secondary linkage. It's only now I get how much easier it is to rig up a throttle cable for a Weber conversion on a RHD vehicle as the cable doesn't have to take a serpentine path over the rocker cover.

Don't know if this helps.I didn't end up using that bracket.

maxdsm, yeah that does help. Im gonna go ahead and mount the filter on there and get the cable mounted to the throttle plate and see if everything clears.

I ordered the dFev to avoid the throttle cable issue. Tons of great info of this thread.

Got it all buttoned up and it started on the first try!!!!!

Now there's this weird high pitch squelch/squeak that remains constant at idle and fluctuates by throttle. It sounds like a massive air leak....don't know if this is normal.

There's a couple things that I'll add later with pics in reference to the wiring .

I've seen a couple threads with people asking about which wires to use for the electric choke and or the fuel pump power. On the truck side plug that used to go to the mikuni carb there is a row of wires that go: Green wire then Red wire, then black with red stripe and then black with white/yellow stripe. These two are powered only when the ignition key is in the second position or "on".

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psg6xojqmn.jpg

Ignore what I said about using the fuse tap on the horn fuse. This is a "switched" power source, but it is "hot" when the key is in the first position or "ACC". This means that if you just want to listen to the radio the fuel pump is going to be on.



And here is the video of the whine...its pretty noticeable even with the hood closed.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ps5er2if81.mp4

To clarify: The two black wires are the ones that you want to use for switched power

Oh crap dude, that sounds like a Rolls Royce jet engine! You connected the crank case breather back to the manifold? I noticed that on the pic you posted of your throttle cable linkage set up (you've probably connected it by now anyway). Would be more than enough to get it whistling like that. You'll have to go through a process of elimination to find the vac leak. An open element air filter hisses like a cornered wild cat normally but that racket would put my nerves on edge.

Geezer....yeah Ive plugged and hooked everything up that I can. I am familiar with the open element air filter noise and thought this was a tad to much. Ill have to start checking hoses and bolts....its always something LOL.

But it was nice to start the truck without having to feather throttle or crank it over and over to get her running. This thing literally fired up on the first try! And that carter pump is a tad noisy...but its nice to hear it as a reminder that its on too.

Even with the noises it is worth it, especially getting it to fire first shot :thumbup: I've got a Carter that has been reincarnated twice so far and it rumbles a bit but I'm not 100% sure if I'll use it on the L200. I might try something quieter this time around. I found the 'rubber' mounts were really inadequate for dampening the noise from it (a couple of small rubber grommets? and they didn't last long either...) It needs something else to mount up to. Have an in cabin isolation switch for the pump too. If you're ever unlucky enough to have it broken into and the culprits manage to get it started, it won't run for long (I had a missile switch for the pump and a secondary kill switch for the ignition coil) plus if you ever have a fuel delivery issue you can kill it quickly.

I like it, does the whistle increase as you increase throttle. Now if you could get it to sound like this skip to 1:30 in video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9pVOLCwTLg

^ Nice....LOL

I had a carb squeal on my truck before and it happen to be a Weber knockoff that I never could get to work right, it drove me nuts. I sold it to some guy that said he was installing it on a Suzuki sidekick. I explained to him that it was not a true weber and he was fine with it. As far as I know and heard, the sound came from inside the carb as the air traveled over the internal parts and sort of created air flow like air over a coke bottle..

Mine is stamped Weber not a sticker and was purchased from Pierce manifolds so Im assuming its legit.

Ill check it out this weekend and spray some carb cleaner to see where the leak is coming from...hell it could be that I didnt tighten everything up as I shouldve, those mounting bolts can be a beast to get to

I took the electric choke off and removed the top of the carb to bolt mine on. They are not really accessible with a torque wrench.

So I would like to add a fuel pressure gauge to this setup as well and was wondering if I could simply unscrew the brass plug on the Weber and install the gauge and get a proper reading?

similar to this setup......

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...nstall/013.jpg

Or would I be better off installing a gauge in line?

The gauge on the Weber is a good idea. It's safer than an inline (no chance of a hose or clamp coming loose), it's solid mounted, it eliminates the need for all the extra hardware to set it up and is a quick install - ticks all the boxes for me! :thumbup:

I don't think there pipe fittings in the carb. If it has a gasket then it's not. Pipe can leek or crack the housing. You would need a hydrophilic fitting to make the adaption. I know Edelbrock is not pipe.

You could always take the gauge and the fitting out of the carb into an O'Reilly's and see if they have the brass elbow with the right threads. What's the range on the gauge?

If the carb doesn't have a threaded outlet then more than likely they've tapped a thread into it themselves. Easy enough to do. There aren't any flow arrows on the fuel inlet snout so I guess it was designed for a fuel inlet hose on either side.

Its my understanding that the fuel inlet can be swapped either side on the newer carbs, so Im assuming I could do the same.

The other inlet should be threaded, but Ill let you guys know when I look into it more this weekend.

Found out that I didn't have the carb bolted as tight as it should've been and got rid of the howling.

But the air filter has something to do with a very high pitch whine it seems to go away when the air filter is removed or if I put pressure on the top plate.

Maybe the air filter isn't seating properly. How tight is the top cover clamping down? If you have a bit of clearance you could try some self adhesive weather stripping on the base and top cover to make it more airtight (the urethane stuff, not the porous grey spongy foam as it will perish and get sucked into the nether regions of your engine)

Get the taller air cleaner - the shorty air cleaner makes the air try to make too many bends to get to the top of the carb. It's the 2.75" tall one you want. The lid is so close to the top of the carb it will howl like a door not fully closed in a windstorm. The taller air cleaner will also make it easier to tune.

I think I have the "tall" air cleaner, it is definitely taller than the one that is pictured a couple posts above me (with the pressure gauge)

I messed around a little more this weekend and I think its gonna me something that Ill just have to deal with.

What did your manifold spacer look like? The one I salvaged with the 34DATA from the wrecker has a bigger area than the throttle ports on the carb, and I've been wondering if this 'step' between the carb and the manifold would cause turbulence going into the inlet manifold (air passing over that recess might be enough to create drag - and noise along the way). I'm going to take a shot at fabbing my own spacer in an attempt to eliminate anything that might interfere with air velocity into the manifold plenum...

Anyway the cause of your noise issue will make itself apparent. The novelty of having a Weber screaming at you will wear off pretty quickly and it will be something simple I bet.

I'm having issues putting on my weber... Instructions said throttle linkage to the front but a lot of people have throttle linkage in the back... And the bracket it says to use from old carb does not look right no matter where i put it...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TruckRamRod

I'm having issues putting on my weber... Instructions said throttle linkage to the front but a lot of people have throttle linkage in the back... And the bracket it says to use from old carb does not look right no matter where i put it...

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Got a pic of your installation? There are so many variants on this set up that they never appear to be a straight forward deal.

Geezer and pennyman , help truck ram rod out...he's been getting mis info from a guy on the Facebook page . I've given him some info, but I'm by no means as knowledgable as you guys are. It's my understanding he has a 2.0 with a dgev 32/36 and is having trouble with the throttle cable mount like me.

Pics of what you did so far will give us what we need to get you straightened out.

I am by no means the Weber guru (hell, I'm working on my first Weber mod and install and there is literally NO INFO on the !@#$ing carb anywhere!!?! (I'm having to gamble on buying a rebuild kit as I don't know if the inlet filter or fuel needle and seat will be the right diameter etc) A pic or 2 goes a long way on gaining insight into throttle cable positions and linkage set ups. My 34DATA requires a single path between the choke arm and the original throttle stop location as any other path will cause the cable to get fouled on something, and I had to alter the throttle stop location as the original adjuster bolt hit the manifold preventing WOT from taking place. It is easy to screw up installing a carb on a non-standard configuration (like having a Weber facing the wrong way will cause the float to shut off the fuel needle and seat sporadically but it'll bolt up and the throttle linkages will work...) so it takes a little creativity, lots of observation, and checking who has done what in the past to get it right.

Something like this ???

I like the return spring bracket - never seen that one before...

The only problem is trying to fit the throttle cable through the hole in the linkage it just seems to be to big to fish through it. That return linkage above has to be fab. I've never seen that as well but looks like it would work .

it is tight - the cable has to be cut with a needle file, not cutters to get a clean cut that doesn't flatten the cable. Geronimo has that cable clamp, but I used a ring terminal, looped it around the post, then fed it back through and crimped it. Never had an issue with it since.

I'll do that thanks as always pennyman.

Having a look at the pics you've posted I'm thinking you should be able to use a stock Mikuni throttle linkage with a few washers to space it out on the throttle shaft (there should even be a spacer on the Mikuni that will do the job). You'll need to cut a few redundant parts off the linkage but it'll simplify the set up. It'll look weird with the back of the Mikuni linkage facing outwards but as long as it does it's funky thing, that's all that matters.

Started the car up and drove it to the parts store and around town for a bit. Ran decent, I still need to adjust somethings. But that whistle got annoying so I took the air filter off and it was still there....grabbed a can of carb cleaner and theres a F&%#ing leak at the same spot I thought I had tightened up enough!!!!

I am going to have to take everything back off and put new gasket stuff down and try it again. Is there anything you guys recommend for gaskets or gasket material?

This whistle has go to go !

Did you put a thin layer of grease on both sides of all the gaskets before you installed them? The instructions that came with my Weber said to use lithium based grease. If you're going to make new gaskets, Fel-Pro makes good sheet gasket material.

I did use a little oil and I used oil/gas resistant gasket paste.

I bought a tube of lithium based grease for about $7 CDN and spread a thin layer over all the gaskets with my fingers. I torqued the fasteners to the specified torque with a 1/4" drive torque wrench and never had an issue. When you installed the studs into the top plate did you just turn them by hand until you felt them bottom out, and then back them off just a bit before putting the carb on?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

You can do this no problemo. Buy a cheap ass metric tap set with an M8 tap in the kit and find some small files. The cheap thread taps have metal burrs all the way down the cutting threads - run a small file through every cutting thread and it will make into a decent enough thread tapping tool (if you don't file the burrs off it will shred anything you try to tap a thread into and the bolts going into your newly tapped holes will feel sloppy - if you can even get the bolts to bite...) Then use the M8 tap on the coolant gallery you want to block off as it is exactly the same diameter as the carb mounting stud holes. Buy a bottle of thread locker and a pack of assorted metric grub screws and seal the deal!

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psh9zn1qms.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psdowqkmja.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psiu2qoqmi.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...pslye1zwy4.jpg

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OH DANG.

Thanks Geezer. I just ignored this when I put my Weber on, couldn't figure out what to do about it. Thank you.

I used this stuff on my Weber, and it seems to have done the trick and then some. Had a loose mounting stud (not enough loctite) and the gasket was fine, just needed another layer of it.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unc25

Tapped and installed set/grub screw in coolant port!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9...psc1ybyfsm.jpg

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..hmm...I did not do this...

I decided to try to fix that pesky leak located between the mounting adapters , so I disassembled and checked tightness and added a tad more sealant in spots. Put everything back together and it wouldn't stay running.

Took it all back apart and it seems I've geeked up the paper gaskets, thus causing an even worse leak.

I just ordered a replacement gasket set and am going to give it a try again when it's warmer.

I keep hearing some guys just used a little bit of grease or sealant and some used absolutely nothing other than the paper gaskets.

What is the best way to seat the mounting studs ?!?

When you install gaskets, make sure they are cut correctly and fit. Gasket kits are a bit 'hit and miss' with mounting holes and port alignment. If the mounting holes in the gaskets are a little on the close side they will bunch the gasket up when you seat the adapter and carb. You can attempt to re-punch the mounting holes or you can buy a sheet of gasket paper, some hole punches and have a go at making the gaskets yourself. Mounting gaskets are easy enough to cut.

The mounting studs should not be over tightened. This is very important. Hand tight is sufficient with some thread locker. If you over tighten them with a wrench you will be trying to separate the mounting plate from the adapter plate. The nuts that hold the carb down should be torqued to 12 ft. lbs.

I used this on both sides of the gaskets with hand tightening. Haven't had a problem.

We have a complete Weber manual in our shop manual section of the forum. These manuals are free and well worth having a copy of if you have questions for a weber or even your trucks. Be sure to get the correct year manual.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Manual-inside

I grabbed some of that permatex high tack and now im waiting on the new gaskets to come in. Im going to let each layer set up a bit before adding the other layers. This includes the mounting studs with the loctite.

I swear I did everything by the book when I installed it and couldnt figure out why I had that leak.

Hopefu;lly the warmer weather combined with letting each section set a little will help.

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions!!

Finally reinstalled the weber.
I put each layer on with the permatex high tack and let each layer sit for at least 24 hours before installing the next.

I tightened everything up and she fired right up! No leaks no weird idles ...perfect!

And when I turned the truck off, no dieseling!!!!!!

So now I can start driving it around and install some if these parts I have sitting here

:thumbup:Pics of the install ....Glad to hear it's up and running .Did you change any of the idle/air mixture settings on the Weber?

No changes whatsoever ....only difference this go round was the new gaskets , the permatex and letting everything set up.

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Originally Posted by unc25

This includes the mounting studs with the loctite.

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i was glad to read i wasn't the only one that used loctite on the mounting studs.
i was kind of worried over that one after having to redo everything yesterday because i developed a whistle and found out that the whole carb was lose .
then like yourself unc25 i made the bold move and put some loctit on the studs .

I have one of the non-Redline carb kits; are they okay? Think it's a Weber-direct?

Got a pic or a link to where you bought it from? I can't see there being a problem with using a rebuild kit from any particular manufacturer but I've found in some kits the gasket fitment can be a bit 'iffy'. I've used kits from Fuel Miser and Goss for rebuilding Mikunis and the only beef I had with them were the gaskets were hit and miss with gallery holes and over hang into the venturis (I cut them down to fit and have either re-punched holes or carefully trimmed them). As long as you get all the seals and associated 'O' rings it'll do the job.

It's the WK614 carb package.

I guess the big question is if it will work with the standard 5-speed manual trans instead of the automatic, which it says the kit can be used on? Confused.

I've had more bad luck with repairing this problem than I bet any other D-50 owner! Two rebuilt carbs didn't fix it. Complete tuneup with timing chain maintenance, ... and and on. It's been trouble-free for 40,000 miles and then the carb went to hell.

Wish it had the Canada version of this engine without all the jet valve, emission carb crap.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Got a pic or a link to where you bought it from? I can't see there being a problem with using a rebuild kit from any particular manufacturer but I've found in some kits the gasket fitment can be a bit 'iffy'. I've used kits from Fuel Miser and Goss for rebuilding Mikunis and the only beef I had with them were the gaskets were hit and miss with gallery holes and over hang into the venturis (I cut them down to fit and have either re-punched holes or carefully trimmed them). As long as you get all the seals and associated 'O' rings it'll do the job.

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Got an email from Weber Direct ... YES! This kit will fit the manifold! At last, something about this nightmare repair is going in the correct direction. Got it back from 1 month at the mechanic with the choke completely disabled. Says it just won't work. ARGH!!! So now I either have to buy ANOTHER rebuild or do the involved conversion to the Weber and just eat the $450 for the last rebuild and work. Soooooo disappointed in this truck currently. After decades of good service it's turned into a bottomless money pit and still isn't working well.

Bet it can't be removed now ... without a sledgehammer and chisel.

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Originally Posted by maxdsm

I used this on both sides of the gaskets with hand tightening. Haven't had a problem.

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Originally Posted by Kerrigan

It's the WK614 carb package.

I guess the big question is if it will work with the standard 5-speed manual trans instead of the automatic, which it says the kit can be used on? Confused.

I've had more bad luck with repairing this problem than I bet any other D-50 owner! Two rebuilt carbs didn't fix it. Complete tuneup with timing chain maintenance, ... and and on. It's been trouble-free for 40,000 miles and then the carb went to hell.

Wish it had the Canada version of this engine without all the jet valve, emission carb crap.

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Just to let you know that the Canadian trucks did have slightly different carbs ( not all that different from your federal emission carbs) and we did have jet valve heads. Wishing for the Canadian version really wouldn't help. I think the Mikuni carbs were made to try and satisfy emission requirements for the North American market by the Japanese, who didn't really have any long time experience with North American emission requirements. They worked fine for a few years but once they started to have problems they were a nightmare to fix because they are so complicated.
The K614 Weber kit will work on either Auto or manual trans. The K610 won't work with the automatic trans without some kind of mod to incorporate the kickdown cable which controls the shifting.

Thank you! Very helpful.
I'm up the air now about trying one more rebuild (the current one offered by Summit Racing) or just biting the bullet and doing the one-way modifications to install the Weber WK614 on hand for Mitzi.
I'm at the point of one more "impossible problem half way through work" and I'll serious consider unloading the whole package, spare engine and all. and by a very reliable Ford F150 ... that would be "problem resolved for good."

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Originally Posted by Andy 2

Just to let you know that the Canadian trucks did have slightly different carbs ( not all that different from your federal emission carbs) and we did have jet valve heads. Wishing for the Canadian version really wouldn't help. I think the Mikuni carbs were made to try and satisfy emission requirements for the North American market by the Japanese, who didn't really have any long time experience with North American emission requirements. They worked fine for a few years but once they started to have problems they were a nightmare to fix because they are so complicated.
The K614 Weber kit will work on either Auto or manual trans. The K610 won't work with the automatic trans without some kind of mod to incorporate the kickdown cable which controls the shifting.

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The Weber wins over the Mikuni. They flow better, they have better economy and response as a result and are far more forgiving to work on. You could get another serviceable Mikuni that is a lot newer, rebuild it and swap it for your dead one. If you can rebuild it yourself it'll save you some coin but these @!#$ing things are not for the faint of heart to pull down if you're neither patient or experienced with carbs.

Thank you. I have an older Weber WK614, bought new probably 10 years ago. Been in a heated garage in the box. I have a spare intake manifold I can build up for it, then swap it in. Hope the gaskets in it don't leak after being dry this long.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

The Weber wins over the Mikuni. They flow better, they have better economy and response as a result and are far more forgiving to work on. You could get another serviceable Mikuni that is a lot newer, rebuild it and swap it for your dead one. If you can rebuild it yourself it'll save you some coin but these @!#$ing things are not for the faint of heart to pull down if you're neither patient or experienced with carbs.

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