1990 Max 4X4 Build

Just chiming in. Looking to purchase this truck this weekend. Never knew Mitsu made a MM with the 6g72. I have some fun plans for this build. Being that I own a couple TT 3S's I may go TT, or just 6g74/6g75 it. Not sure yet as I don't know how strong these trans are.

Plan on making a build thread here soon. I'm amazed at how simple these trucks are and how light they are. Might even look in to auto x if they are solid enough.

I would like to thank you all though for a being a civil forum and having quite a wealth of information. Spent the last week scouring your site. Very nice!

I do have one question though as i prepare to purchase this truck. What recommendations do you have for me as I go to inspect it?

Thanks

Paxton made a centrifugal supercharger kit for these engines, specifically for this application.

No real problem areas other than ECUs with blown capacitors on the early 90s FI trucks, but that's coming from the 2WD side, 4WD could be a different story. Look and listen for the usual stuff, leaks and squeaks. These trucks can take heaps of abuse or years of neglect if they're left to rot in a field somewhere and usually they'll bounce back to nearly as good as new with a thorough cleaning, new gaskets, fluids and a routine tune up. Pretty much anything that needs fixing can be repaired, replaced with new or scrounged up in the junkyard. The only really expensive thing I can think of is a leaking power steering gear -- that's about $250-$300 to re-manufacture.

Good to know about the ecu. 1st gen 3S's are the same. I'll be pulling the ecu, wiring harness eventually for a montero unit. I'll keep an eye out for PS leaks too.

Here is a little info on the MM for you

aka L200
Production 1987-1995
Class Compact Pickup
Body Style 2-door, 2-seat Pickup
Length 177.2 in
Width 65.2 in
Height 58.3 in
Wheelbase 105.1 in
Weight 2600-3000 lb
Transmission 4-Speed Manual, RWD/4WD
5-Speed Manual RWD/4WD
3-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
4-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
Engine 2.0L (122 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
2.4L (144 cid) I4 (1990-1995)
2.6L (156 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
3.0L (181 cid) V6 (1990-1993)
Power 90 hp @ N/A rpm
N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm

150 hp @ N/A rpm
N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm
Similar Dodge Ram 50
Dodge Dakota

Attachment 14891
6G72

Strange but cool looking, they look kind of like 2 4 cylinder motors mated together.

We got one generation of these trucks with the 6G72 in 2wd - MK Triton. The gearboxes in these are becoming popular for transplants but getting one cheap isn't happening - about a grand depending on who and where...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BradMph

Here is a little info on the MM for you

aka L200
Production 1987-1995
Class Compact Pickup
Body Style 2-door, 2-seat Pickup
Length 177.2 in
Width 65.2 in
Height 58.3 in
Wheelbase 105.1 in
Weight 2600-3000 lb
Transmission 4-Speed Manual, RWD/4WD
5-Speed Manual RWD/4WD
3-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
4-Speed Automatic, RWD/4WD
Engine 2.0L (122 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
2.4L (144 cid) I4 (1990-1995)
2.6L (156 cid) I4 (1987-1989)
3.0L (181 cid) V6 (1990-1993)
Power 90 hp @ N/A rpm
N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm

150 hp @ N/A rpm
N/A lb-ft of torque @ N/A rpm
Similar Dodge Ram 50
Dodge Dakota

Attachment 14891
6G72

Strange but cool looking, they look kind of like 2 4 cylinder motors mated together.

---

Thanks for the info. Can't believe these only max out at 3,000 lbs. Tha is less than a MX8 and just a tad heavier than an s2000. Also seems a bit odd they cut off the 6g72 after 94. Would have thought it lasted through its last year.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by geezer101

We got one generation of these trucks with the 6G72 in 2wd - MK Triton. The gearboxes in these are becoming popular for transplants but getting one cheap isn't happening - about a grand depending on who and where...

---

Yea sounds like it. Nothing in the states correct? Can one use the newer montero casing but mess with the internal gears? What would be the max torque my current trans could sustain?

Hmm wrote you all back, but somehow its into admin for approval to post...

Tech questions

1) I have the V5MT1 trans. What is the power/torque limitations of this trans?
2) my front diff is an 8". does that mean I can swap out with 4 contracts MM rear diffs?
3) sounds like my 9" rear gears are interchange with ford 9". Is this true? Also I know that the second gen monteros have a higher pinion and not swappable but are their limited slip diffs still interchangeable with mine?

Thanks for for the help.

Figured I should update with pics. Bought it last week in CA along with another car on the same day another state away. Talk about a crazy day. Little frost from the cold.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...34&oe=56BA27A1

Nice little 3.0L in there.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d6&oe=56C945FD

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...40&oe=56F6418A

Interior is quite nice too with very few issues. Already want one of those sport clusters though.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...91&oe=56BFC568


Now for the other car. Picked up a 95' Montero SR with 156k miles and a seized motor. Managed to get a breaker bar on it and it turns, but its tight. Might try to lube up the upper end and give it a whirl. For now the started cannot get it to budge.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...4e&oe=56F77DF4

Here is the 6g74 in all its glory. Not sure if its common knowledge, but these SR blocks are sought after in the 3s world. That is due to the oil pump being on the passenger side just like the 72 3s and having all the lower block accessories, pan, etc match up the same. All the other US exported 74 blocks are different and have the pump on the drivers side.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...24&oe=56BD553C

May just decide to swap it straight over if i can get it to run, or might get another 74 motor and transplant. I don't think there will be an issue with the drivers side oil pump. May have to double check pan clearance though. Thoughts?

I don't know if the RWD V6 transmissions were available to you guys in the states but I'd take an educated guess and say no. It would've been considered pretty low spec for a light commercial vehicle and consequently overlooked as an option. Your Montero was sold here in Oz under the model name 'Pajero' (if you wanna laugh look up why they weren't given this name when they were sold in Spain :lmao:) The V6 engine screams 'sleeper' and I'd bet it would only take some adjustment on the exhaust cams to turn it into a rpm happy brute.

There was exactly one RWD 5 speed out of a Hyundai/Kia SUV produced for a few years that would hook up to a 6G7x. I think OldColt discovered the compatibility on http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com/index.php

Another affordable sleeper is the Hyundai V8 out of their top of the line sedan and sports coupe. It's their state of the art Tau engine. Lightweight, all aluminum, fuel efficient and powerful. The specs on this thing are crazy. And cheap used! No one knows about these things yet. OriginalOwner on this board suggested it as a swap candidate.

Would that V8 bolt up to our V6 trans?

I don't know. There's a lot of weird compatibility between Hyundai and Mitsubishi and you can always ask Bill Hichner to made an adapter to fit virtually any engine to any transmission. https://www.facebook.com/bill.hincher

That would be great. Hows his pricing?

This is probably the worse year of EFI Mighty Max to own, The distributor is particular to this year alone. and the ECU (MD162826) is also only compatible with this year truck and not transferable to any other year Max. I would send the ECU out for maintenance immediately (caps replacement) before risk frying from a bad IAC motor. Also replace this part AIC with a new one: http://www.ninjaperformance.com/mits...c-p-21601.html

http://www.avproecm.com/

I cant stress how important it is for you to do these two things to keep this EFI truck healthy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GoodApollo

This is probably the worse year of EFI Mighty Max to own, The distributor is particular to this year alone. and the ECU (MD162826) is also only compatible with this year truck and not transferable to any other year Max. I would send the ECU out for maintenance immediately (caps replacement) before risk frying from a bad IAC motor. Also replace this part AIC with a new one: http://www.ninjaperformance.com/mits...c-p-21601.html

http://www.avproecm.com/

I cant stress how important it is for you to do these two things to keep this EFI truck healthy.

---

Appreciate the response. I agree that the IAC will eventually blow the ECU. Ive done the swap on my 3S's as well. Had one Cap blow on my 92 TT and created all sorts of hell. I have a couple of the updated (black) ones lying around, so Ill be sure to swap it. Also I must note that there were a couple variations of the newer IAC's installing the wrong one can fry your ECU.

Ultimately I will be pulling the ECU as well as the wiring harness and updating it with either a TT harness, or a 98 Montero one. This will allow for me to upgrade the marginal performance of the early 90's electronics to that of the later era. Will also allow for me to tune my truck.

Went to the local premium yard and managed to find some goodies out of an 88 MM.

Sport Cluster. Top plastic is smashed as the owner went into it when he crashed. Anyone know where i can find a new plastic face?
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...8e&oe=5706DF4F

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...34&oe=570FBCB5

I also got my hands on a receiver. Tried to find them online, but nothing ever came up. Not sure if Class I or II as there is no writing on it. Any ideas?

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...d2&oe=5700353A

You can disassemble the plastic instrument cover from the bezel and then swap it onto your sport cluster but you have to be careful. Take out the small anchor screws, remove it from the cluster and immerse the assembly in hot water. Then gently pry the clear cover from the bezel using a wide thin blade (the 2 different types of plastic expand at different rates and the hot water helps make the adhesive brittle). If you choose to glue it back down don't use superglue/crazy glue as it'll attack the clear plastic and leave vapour trails all over it. I know you're going to have an issue with the odometer reset being in a different location but you can drill a new hole and plug the old one. Otherwise you're chasing another sport cluster...

Yea, im hoping I can find another cluster that is in good shape, so I dont have to make a mess of mine. As you stated the only difference is in the location of the reset button.

BTW what is the switch that is located on the bottom of the cluster? Both of mine have them.

Is that the mysterious service reset switch I hear about? I did a McGoogle for info but got zippo. This is where you get a flood of responses on the aforementioned switch and it's apparent function/purpose lol

Lol, I hope it has a purpose.

that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1

None of that is necessary to remove the gauge cluster clear cover on a 2nd gen. You just remove the 4 screws and it pops right off.

Oh, so CEL reset? Nice but weird.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1

---

Good for a headlight (?) not for an instrument bezel. The glue used on headlights are a urethane based adhesive. Heating the instrument bezel in an oven will cause the plastic to shrink - then game over. Taking a look at this instrument panel I can see why water immersion isn't a good idea as the main instruments have their dial needles forward of the bezel (I didn't really look at it before) I've stripped plenty of instrument panels and restored them. Depending on how mental the guy on the assembly line went with the glue it can be anywhere between 'pop, off it comes' to 'craaaaack - you sunuvabiatch...' Admittedly I haven't pulled down a 2nd gen instrument cluster and you may very well be lucky they haven't glued them together.

Lol 2ns gens are not glued together, they have 4 screws holding it in and a gasket to seal it,

Update


Decided to tackle the brakes today. Wanted to swap over first the rear drums for the minteros discs. Started well but quickly found that there were a few differences that I hadn't anticipated. Some of those were the routing of the hard brake lines, brake hubs being different sizes and having the wheel bearing pressed on the axle shaft. I would just swap shafts but the monteros is longer and has 2 more splines. Wasnt meant to be, so I put it back together for now. Here is a pic of the rotor on the mm. Notice the gap?


https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...af&oe=574ADD3A


Thinking that going the 97-01 montero sport rear will still be best route if I want to go rear discs. It's a leaf rear and is supposidly plug and play. For now the drums will work.


I then tackled the fronts. This went much smoother. They are nearly identical. Only real differences were the thickness of the rotors, larger calipers, dust shields, auto hub vs fixed. Here are some before and after pics. Had to massage the lower part of the dust shields as the orientation of the calipers is off by about 10*.


Stock MM unit.
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...18&oe=5791DC9D


Side by side comparison. Same diameter.
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e3&oe=578F7819


Notice the thickness and improved veins.I ended up just swapping over the montero rotor and hub as is.


Final product
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ae&oe=5789065D


I had to do a quick bleed before taking it out to dinner to meet up with some friends. I think I will need to bleed it again because the pedal travels about an inch further before braking. The good news? I can lock up the front brakes. Once down on the pedal it takes less force and effort to slow down the truck. It's actually so much better that it causes the nose to dive if you get too agressive.


Best upgrade so far.

Nice work :grin: Twin piston calipers will stop you as fast as a tree but without the getting wrecked part.

Thanks. I'm going to need them to help stop this thing once I drop the motor in.

Slight Update:

Picked up a couple items from a pick and pull up in the mountains. Found a primered long bed truck and thought I wouldnt find anything worthwhile. I was wrong. Picked up a sport cluster, another 2 additional mint cluster front plastics, Momo Steering wheel, clock, bucket seat rails, D50 grill, and some John Baker F3000 fender extensions. Only thing I couldnt take was the beefy front and rear sway bars as the brackets were damaged by the forklift.

Anyways here is the updated interior.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...7d&oe=5790AD62

The fender extensions. In great shape and never installed.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...aa&oe=577F8B5C

Nice find you got there! Too bad you weren't able to get the suspension salvage, that would've been the icing on the cake...

those sway bars were probably baker parts as well - you sure you can't get them off with a sawsall?

I could probably go back and cut them off. They were painted a light blue iirc. Do the 2wd and 4wd sways interchange?

not sure - never owned a 4wd. Either way - if they don't work on your truck, you could sell them on here - take pics of how they are mounted before cutting them off. I now have a 4" 18v Ryobi angle grinder in addition to an 18v sawsall for such work. Between the 2 the next best things to a torch.

Update...

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...ea&oe=5774033E

Little update on the install.

https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=595F5D60

Maybe this shot is better.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0...a2&oe=59530B88

Motor looks damn good, how much more to do to get it running?

Thanks bud. Not much. Installing the rest of the parts will happen in a day. I need to work out all the electrical which will take a little more time. Hoping to have that done in the next few weeks.

Its official. Just need to tidy up the engine bay. Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/hSjpa22Gj20

Thing sounds good. Is this 4x4? Did it mount to factory transmission? I have a 91 v6 4x4 auto I'm looking to replace the motor on.

Yes 4x4 and factory 5 speed trans bolted right up.

Time to resurrect this thread. I did a thing...




https://i.imgur.com/GbgkPA3.jpg

OooOOOooh, you did a dyno run! So what went down when you tested it?

Yea out with it man!

Hopefully this link works:

https://i.imgur.com/8j4aCkU.mp4

This tune is my very first for startup purposes so There is room for improvement. Also still need to do some other mods to the intake. Mustang Dyno at 4,300 ft.

Trucks been running really good lately. Decided to take her on her first real mountain trip. Took it like a champ going up to a Crystal Mine. Made it to about 8,000 ft. before the snow got too bad. Here is a picture halfway up the mountain. I would have pushed it all the way if I wasn't alone. Had to back down the mountain about 2 miles before I could turn around. That sucked.

https://i.imgur.com/KqXdRo0.jpg

Sales brochure shot right there

Most excellent. It can walk the walk and look good doing it too :thumbup:

Yea, no hesitation whatsoever. The 3.8 wanted to keep going, but I really didn't want to get stuck. lol

ChargerX3! I hunted this build down for about an hour before I found it. Lol. I have a ‘92 6G72 that has 238K. I’m really looking in to this Mivec swap. Besides the flashable 3000GT ECU (and other odds and ends) what was you biggest set back? Or you biggest hurdle? I would love to read a full write up of this project and what needs to be done. Love it! Thanks man!!! You’re an inspiration.

Your truck is bad enough but the fact that you have access to Nevada PicknPull + snow covered mountains REALLY makes me JEALOUS :)

What a joy to see your fun :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rwmccarty42

ChargerX3! I hunted this build down for about an hour before I found it. Lol. I have a ‘92 6G72 that has 238K. I’m really looking in to this Mivec swap. Besides the flashable 3000GT ECU (and other odds and ends) what was you biggest set back? Or you biggest hurdle? I would love to read a full write up of this project and what needs to be done. Love it! Thanks man!!! You’re an inspiration.

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Yea, I really need to sit down and go through it all. Your conversion would be slightly easier than mine. 90 trucks had the trashcan MAF. 91+ were the much smaller and improved MAF's, so no need to rewire yours.

The most difficult things were probably: 1) Electrical work. You have to make an adapter harness that connects the 3000gt ecu to the plugs on the Mighty Max. I had to figure all those leads out. Actually still figuring out the AC side, but im close. Also need to wire your MIVEC controls. 2)Finding all the hard parts. I literally have parts off of 3000gt's, various Monteros, Kia's, 4G Eclipse. Its a lot of hunting for some of the parts, but thats the fun in it. 3) You need to weld a little. The Eclipse block lacks proper bosses to reuse the Max motor mounts. You need to weld on one extension, so you at least have 3 bolts on each mount. 4) Tuning it. Im still not done tuning it, but thats because I still have not mounted the intake that I want (that will require some welding). If you dont know how to tune a 3S ecu then you will want to start learning.

Other than that you will surprise yourself by how interchangeable most of the 6G7* platform is. You will strip off a lot of 4G parts just to install Montero ones. It almost feels like blaspheme.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xboxrox

Your truck is bad enough but the fact that you have access to Nevada PicknPull + snow covered mountains REALLY makes me JEALOUS :)

What a joy to see your fun :)

---

Thanks. We have two Pick and Pulls here. Then I have several just over the mountains in CA. :) The snow is a joy, but i also want to take it easy with my big investment. ;)

Took Mad Max out for a little ride this last weekend. Weather finally got better and things dried out. I wanted to see how the new LSD would work after draining the initial oil fill with some proper, expensive(ester based) gear oil with friction modifiers for the LSD. Well, it works amazing.

Lets just say its a bit more of a challenge to get the MIVEC to break the rear end loose now on the 31's.

Anyways hit up some some smaller but steep mountains just to see how much better she performed.

Picture is deceiving, already on an incline, but there are some good washouts on this face as its steep. Just put her in 4 low and cruised up to the top with virtually no slip. I was impressed. My jeep would have spun.
https://i.imgur.com/CY9Idja.jpg


The Top
https://i.imgur.com/tAS6UbT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4jsPbdA.jpg


View from top
https://i.imgur.com/naNGRv4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dXSKsxO.jpg


Anyways really enjoying this truck. Plenty of power for the street, off-road, and just comfortable to drive around. I think im hooked.

If I didn't know you were in the US I would think you're in a charming place called Whyalla (towards the north of South Oz) The terrain is identical, right down to the salt bush. You got some great pics - nice work :)

Thanks...salt bush? You mean Sagebrush?

Similar stuff. Different geography, different name lol

Hmm i googled it. Similar, but not the same.

Went on another climb this weekend. Found a new trail up north and decided to give it a go. What started out as a couple hill climbs turned into an old mine road up to the top of a mountain.


Half way up the trail.
https://i.imgur.com/0f7iNxM.jpg




2/3 way up. Got steep from here.
https://i.imgur.com/JjNilnM.jpg




I hate how its hard to gauge an incline in pictures, but this is 3/4 way up. Lots of loose gravel, big rocks, washouts and tight switchbacks.
https://i.imgur.com/sZYZrWr.jpg




The top. There were several filled in mining holes up here. Appears to be an old Copper/gold mining attempt. Grabbed a couple cool rocks and headed back down.
https://i.imgur.com/dMiREfr.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/EvEuYRk.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/yvSBI1w.jpg




Ok with that one in the bag i got brave and wanted to try a run back at the last old mountain that I chickened out on. The road you see on the left is the one I have been taking up. Its a newer path and is plenty steep. The trail to the right is the old path, full of washouts, spinnouts, and loads of loose articulation. I cant say ive ever seen anyone make it up that trail since ive been coming here.
https://i.imgur.com/2EKCsKv.jpg


Better look down the gnarly trail. The top looks normal, but if you can zoom in the middle and lower section are a mess. Also this looks flat, but its so steep i nearly fell on my ass walking down.
https://i.imgur.com/tJqGFO4.jpg


Better picture showing how steep it is on the less steep top end. Me pointing camera straight in front of me.
https://i.imgur.com/jTJwghd.jpg




So, i decide to give it a try. Put the truck in 4wd low, backed up 2 feet to engage the front diff. and took off slow in 1st gear. Bottom section was bumpy and full of ruts, so i just took my time. Then as i started the incline I just picked a steady RPM and plotted out my course up the face. The trail shifts to the left with several deep vertical washouts that clearly got other trucks sideways and stalled. There were also two large boulders in the path that were permanent fixtures in the landscape. Not knowing if I would clear, i straddled one. Several times I felt the rear end lose traction briefly, LDS kick in, then momentum continue. Towards the very top there was the largest washout with nothing but loose rocks. I kept my pace, hit it, both rear tires broke loose, felt my momentum slow, but then the fronts caught just before i started to slow to a stop. Gave the truck just a little more throttle and up we went. One of my favorite climbs with this truck yet!
https://i.imgur.com/r6axLOS.jpg




Not a bad view either
https://i.imgur.com/SFmPWXY.jpg

This sounds like fun. Would love to see some photos/videos of the truck doing these climbs, or maybe a dash cam view?

Yea I’ve been thinking about that. Videos are more enjoyable for the spectator.

Bringing this back from the dead!
Mivec question. Should I get an engine or a whole car for the swap? If it's one ECU and one engine it may be better to just pull an engine. What did you do exactly? I am ready to pay you for knowledge.
91 4x4 3.0. Runs like trash when warm. Burning oil. Rebuilt heads and I think my oil contril rings are worn or stuck since I have good compression and oil pressure. Ready to swap it.

Swap list so far as I have researched:
2007 3.8L mivec
1998 3000GT VR4 ecu- flashable
2003-2006 3.5L Kia Sorento Oil pan
Modify engine mounts for 3.8

That's the start of the list.
Anything else you can think of? Please help...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EvilNavyGinger

Swap list so far as I have researched:
2007 3.8L mivec
1998 3000GT VR4 ecu- flashable
2003-2006 3.5L Kia Sorento Oil pan
Modify engine mounts for 3.8

That's the start of the list.
Anything else you can think of? Please help...

---

you are missing a super important part in your list.. how are you gonna connect the engine to the ecu? you will need the complete engine harness that goes with the new motor.. and to be honest you should use the ecu from same vehicle as motor... the honest best way is to find a car that has been rearended.. or slammed on the side and get it for pretty cheap.. but thats a long shot... make sure tthe newer motor will bolt up to your trans..

Charger3x has a similar set up to me, his was a 90' v6 4x4 and I have a 91' v6 4x4. He ran the same harness and made an adapter. Guessing you would get a pin layout for both the MM ECU and the 3000GT ECU and convert it wire for wire.
I really want to pull this off, but I don't know exactly what else I would need.
Maybe a full harness is needed. Chargerx3, can you help?

You can make it run off the exiting truck harness. I had to run 3 extra wires as the trucks harness was a couple short, but nothing too hard to run through the firewall with the existing harness.

You will need to fab up a conversion harness that clips into the existing harness. You will also need a chrome ECU or a 98-99 3000gt SL or Vr4 ecu. You could also temporarily run a 98 Montero ECU, but it will not have a knock sensor. Of course you will need to flash tune, but all that stuff is out there for not much $.

You will need montero parts like manifold and downpipe. Also need the front engine bracket to hang all the accessories from. I ran the 3000gt fuel rail and vr4 injectors which also included the resistor pack. I controlled mivec with a window switch from summit. Get the oil pickup tube from the Sorento while you are getting the pan. Also get a new gasket for that (was really hard to find 7 years ago). YOu also need to get an earlier eclipse crank wheel and a montero cam wheel, but i cannot recall those part numbers at the moment.

Man im forgetting more than i remember. Lol.

Every time you post, I get a little more info each time.

Surprised i can remember as much from that long ago.