Drop spindles?

I have 2" drop spindles on the front with 1 1/2 coil cut noticed that my stock rims rub my lower control arm when turning. Now my ?is when I'm purchasing new rims what do I need to know so that whatever rims I buy won't rub and will clear the knuckles!I'm thinking about buyin a set of 15x8 weld super singles off of craigslist,I'm from Hawaii and the rims are on a different island,I'm having a friend pick them up for me so I won't be able to put the rims on my truck to see if they CLEAR THE KNUCKLE!any answers to this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

And my truck is a 89 ram50!

When running spindles you want at least a 16" rim as thats whats recommended, but preferably a 17" or bigger as to not having any clearance problems with the suspension. I'm thinking those 15x8 will definitely rub.

I would have to grind the lower arms down if anything?

I run a set of 17X7's on mine and with the dropped spindles and air ride they scrapped the end links till I turned them so the bolt pointed up. also had to trim the leading edge of the lower control arm from the indent(just below the end link mount) to the ball joint 1/2" and now I have no problems turning lock to lock in a parking lot.

I run 16x7 with stock coils and my rims rubbed until I trimmed the lca, so I think 15's won't work.

Drop spindles require at least a 16" wheel and the lcas trimmed depending on rim backspacing. If you ran just the coils, the 15" may work, again depending on the backspacing. Just reinforcing previous posts - and do not use spacers to correct for backspacing issues - it will cause more problems than they will fix.

Is trimming the lca bad in anyway

for the small amount you would need to trim them no, but if the reinforcing plate comes loose, weld it back onto the lca.

So pennyman1 do u know how much backs pacing I would need on a 16 x8 inch rim so that I won't need to trim the lca? These are the rims I was looking intohttp://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0149/1845/products/BlkModular_1024x1024.jpeg?835

Sorry can't figure out how to post the pic up

4.5" or less the lca should not rub the rim with a 16x8 running the setup you have, but a 17" rim would work with a 5.5" backspace and allow the rim to tuck better.

When I trimmed my lca I trimmed more then needed then welded a bit just to be sure it held up.

Guys I found a site that will allow me to custom order a set of wheels exactly how I want them(size width offset back spacing) I really want to go with16" wheels and I don't want the wheels to stick out pass my fenders! Can some one give me the specs that will allow me to do a 16x7 wheel without it having any clearance issues with any suspension parts and with me not having to grind down my LOWER CONTROL ARM! The site is marshracingwheels.com

I don't know much, but I do know you're suppose to use standard (not cut or short) shocks with lowering spindles. Otherwise it causes a whole mess of other suspension problems.

I wanna get a set of 15x8 with grinding the lca will they work or the backspacing has to be 4.5?

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I didn't want to make a new thread for just me.

I got new 15 x 6 wheels, -3mm offset, 3.38 backspacing. I have 2" Belltech lowering coils and Belltech shocks. Think I'll have to grind the LCA with the new wheels and a set of 2" drop spindles I bought but haven't installed yet?

those should clear without trimming the lcas - the 14x6 factory rims had more backspacing than that and didn't rub.

Thanks man. What's the deal with the long LCA stabilizer that runs up to the nose of the frame? This is the one that has two bolts on the LCA and is at about a 45 degree angle with bushing brackets on the nose. I see a lot of guys who do air ride suspensions get rid of both it and the sway bar. Are they unnecessary or do they help keep the alignment in check?

Attachment 5096

Wouldn't a rear sway help much more than a front sway? I thought it was an odd design choice to have a front sway but no rear sway from the factory.

The front is where you control roll and it helps to corner. As for the bar. it helps to keep the wheels in alignment and make a stiffer front end so if you hit a curb the wheel doesn't roll under the cab. It's a leverage thing. I think they remove them because they haven't thought about using a rod end and not bushings.

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Originally Posted by camoit

I think they remove them because they haven't thought about using a rod end and not bushings.

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Care to explain? You mean a threaded rod end?

You can remove them but you need to triangulate the lower arm like this to make it an a-arm.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...une2011027.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...une2011028.jpg
The new arm's bolt has to be in line with the original bolt so it doesn't bind.

Those look so fresh. Where did you get them?

Those arent mine, but they are just stock nissan lower control arms modified.

With a set up like the one in the pictures above you need to be real careful when driving. Pot holes and curbs can roll the wheel under the truck it things hit hard enough. Thats why they put the control arm off the front. The further apart the legs of the triangle or A arm, the stronger it is. You always need to think about the forces involved while driving at 60 MPH and stay away from any long leverage points.

Rod Ends.

Attachment 5116 http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/RODENDS.html

With our trucks the new arm should go on the front side of the stock control arm like the stock radius rod does. They put them on the back on nissans because the steering and other crap is in the front on them unlike our trucks.

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I didn't want to make a new thread for just me. .

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Which is where _I_ was, so I'll just resurrect this thread Again, instead of making another one !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noahwins

I got new 15 x 6 wheels, -3mm offset, 3.38 backspacing. I have 2" Belltech lowering coils and Belltech shocks. Think I'll have to grind the LCA with the new wheels and a set of 2" drop spindles I bought but haven't installed yet?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

those should clear without trimming the lcas - the 14x6 factory rims had more backspacing than that and didn't rub.

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So if I understand Noahwins question, he's asking if he'll have to trim the LCA with the set up he wants to install.
Which is / was : 15x6 wheels, 2" Drop Spindles, and Short Coils and Shocks.

But Pennyman1 you say that he won't need to grind the LCA's ???
I thought I read in this thread that with Drop Spindles you had to go with at Least 16" wheels, and you'd still have to grind the LCA's a bit,
and that 17" wheels were recommended so you wouldn't Have to grind on the LCA's.

I only bring it up for clarification, because _I_ just bought some Drop Spindles, so I was bummed to learn I won't be able to run the stock wagon wheels.:banghead:
I wanted to get other wheels anyway, but I haven't found any I like yet, so I was hoping to do the Spindles and Springs
and just run the stockers until I find some other wheels.

But from what I've read here ,,, that won't be possible. .Right ?
That if I do Spindles & Springs I'd better have some larger diameter wheels waiting to bolt back on when I'm done.
Correct ? :shrug:

Can you measure the offset and backspacing on the wagon wheels?

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Can you measure the offset and backspacing on the wagon wheels?

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Not at the moment as they are still on the truck, and its parked at work awaiting the whole insurance, smog and registration paperwork crap to be completed.
But I'm referring to the Stock 14x6 Wagon Wheels ,,,
So I'm sure that info is posted on here somewhere, or one of the Many knowledgeable guys on here can post it.

I guess they'll fit. Previous page.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

those should clear without trimming the lcas - the 14x6 factory rims had more backspacing than that and didn't rub.

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the original wagon wheels are a 4 1/2 inch backspacing - those will hit with a drop spindle. If you find a wheel with 3 1/2"backspacing they will clear, even in 14"

Sorry to resurrect this thread yet again but is there a definitive answer about the 14" steel wheels hitting the LCA and end links with drop spindles only, not coils + spindles? Not the wagon wheels, these guys. I was a little unclear.

Attachment 14557

What are your thoughts on using 1 inch spacers on the stock rims? Fender clearance issues?

Pennyman advised against spacers. He said it will screw up the alignment and create more problems than it solves.

I ended up ordering these white wagon wheels in 14x6 with 3.5" backspacing because I like small, skinny wheels and tires for some reason. There are a few wheels that will fit available on Summit. I happy to learn U.S. Wheels are made in the USA in Southern California.

Attachment 14559

Attachment 14560

http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...cending&page=1

F*** US Wheel.:rapidfire:

Attachment 14590

http://www.uswheel.com/pages/american-made-quality

if you want skinny 14 x 6 wheels, get a set of 80's or early 90's pathfinder wheels - I got 2 if you want them, they are yours for the shipping.