I think its just the peace of mind and a warranty thing. i mean tuff-pans sells the pans by themselves for 100 bucks. so really your paying 30 bucks for laborQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
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I think its just the peace of mind and a warranty thing. i mean tuff-pans sells the pans by themselves for 100 bucks. so really your paying 30 bucks for laborQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
but pennyman1 I am totally down for a group buy
I checked the site and if I read it correctly, it was $149.95 USD with hardware. I looked up stainless steel and fancy shmancy titanium bolts on ebay and it still comes in way under budget if you DIY. Ultimately, there shouldn't be any risk of a fat slab of T651 alloy failing so the warranty won't get tested in a hurry. The tuff pan is outstanding value for money though when you factor in CNC milling and the anodising .Quote:
Originally Posted by Chyrio
Sorry I have been not keeping up with this those that are interested. Other projects and well winter is depressing ha ha. But anyways Some progress has been made!
Got everything welded back together except the firewall which i broke grinding and decided to make a removable panel (I think keep going back and forth on this) also got my spacers made which worked perfect.
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Also finally put the rest of the suspension and steering together. I still need to find some 2g hubs or buy drop spindles (still debating) to get the calipers to bolt up correctly. Nothing is torqued yet I need to put a sticky on there to torque everything before i drive it falling apart down the road ;]
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Also finished my design for the throwout bearing dilemma. It seems to fit fine and pushes the bearing out 1/4 of a inch. I tried to mimic the stock design as much as possible without modifying the center where the shaft slides. Testing phase begins when I get the flywheel back from the machine shop this week hopefully, gotta have that pilot bearing.
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I have had the driveshafts painted for a while but I am finally going to take them to my buddies house to install the new joints this weekend.
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So plans for the next few weeks is:
-Get some kind of stripper and clean the old coating off the bottom of the cab since a lot of it got burnt from the welding. And repaint then seal all the holes and crevices with some sealant.
-Make up mind about firewall.
-Paint throw-out bearing
-Install joints in driveshaft
-Once flywheel gets back, install block, tranny, and driveshaft on chassis.
I have a question though:
-What kind of lube if any should I use on the input shaft for the tranny?
Also opinions? things I am missing? reminding me I have no idea what I am doing and telling me the right way??
Sounds like you are keeping busy regardless of winter kicking in. None of your images are working (I am getting an invalid attachment error on all of the above links). The good thing about winter is being able to work on individual parts on the truck. I spent a fat chunk of winter bunkered down in the garage doing the port work and manifold mods while it poured outside.
Idk what happened. the webpage kept crashing on me. but here they are in order:
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Idk why but it wont upload some of my pictures???
idk wtf just happened. anyways you see my point ha ha and Geezer believe me. under 10 degrees for the last 2 weeks and 4 hours of daylight. I am just looking for a reason to get out of bed in the morning.
Yeah, I hear ya. It was freaking cold that winter when I started porting out my head. My advice is get the 2G hubs, they will make life a lot easier for you. And something else I found out - 1G and 2G front stabiliser/sway bars are interchangeable but the 2G is a few mm thicker. Good upgrade on the cheap. I so far haven't tackled my rust issues but they are nowhere near as bad as yours were, but you are pretty much doing everything I have to bring the truck back into service. I'm going to use the twin piston calipers off a 2000 model Mitsubishi Challenger with stainless steel braided brake hoses. The calipers had near new pads on them and bolted up to my 2G hubs without any issues at all but they are designed for a slightly wider diameter brake rotor. I'm looking into a newer/better brake booster and master cylinder as I have little faith in the ancient booster and dual reservoir master set up.
Finally got the flywheel back from the machine shop!
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And finished cleaning some stuff up and painted the throw-out bearing.
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Mounted the engine!
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And mounted the transmission!! Used some lucas red n tacky to put a thin film of lube on the TOB shaft and the input shaft.
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Cant help but feel like i forgot something... But I guess we will find out. Next stage is assembling and installing the driveshaft and clean the bottom of the cab and weld in the firewall and torque everything i forgot and and and... ha ha someday
Painted the Throwout Bearing? Amateur.....:-)
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I only painted it because we had to make some modifications with some metal stock that wasn't coated with anything like this...Quote:
Originally Posted by LSR Mike
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But anyways, It now has a means of movement again! I finished the driveshaft and installed a new rear main seal.
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I have a question though. how do you center the carrier bearing?
Had to rag you a bit, I cleaned & painted all my parts (except internals, they got numbered) while waiting for other parts to arrive.
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I don't know about the carrier bearing, I had a single driveshaft. May I suggest a chalk string between the Tranny and Diff. Snap a line....
Them some pretty parts dude. I wish i had time. I hate to cut corners but I only have like 5 months to get this truck together. I am starting to need to compromise :/.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSR Mike
But idk about that slap a line thing. I mean should the bearing be centered to the chassis or the transmission/axle. I would think the later. Gonna do some more research.
I would say the driveshaft should be in parallel between the forward and rear driveshaft yokes. And don't worry about Mike lol. Hell, I have an engine block that I ground all the buttresses and shelves smooth and all the internal faces were literally polished. That block is going to have to wait for when I can do a full bomb-proof build. Even DIY porting requires a huge amount of time to get it to a point where you'd be happy to bolt it up to an engine (I spent about 40 hours in total on the port work, and I re-worked it because I wasn't happy with the first pass) You are making leaps and bounds with progress and will be able to enjoy your truck soon enough. :thumbup:
So been trying to do some stuff in the background because I really don't want to work in the cold with the garage open. (0 to 9F for the last two weeks.) I started messing with the wiring harness and while i have some questions that I'll address when I am installing it but for now.
What you don't need:
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Vs what you need:
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I also pulled the fuel tank to start working on the electric fuel pump install. But I have a question:
What are these empty plastic tanks on top of the tank? Do i need them for my electric fuel pump install? I mean the two hoses at the bottom of the tank are the supply and return right?
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Also got bored and mounted some clocks that dont tell time ;)
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o.k. those 2 empty tanks are air chambers for the breather system in the tank. You can see that there is a transfer pipe between them where the vapour canister line is bridged into it - this allows fuel vapour to travel from either end of the fuel tank regardless of what angle the truck is being driven on. Don't mess with it. I would bet that you may end up with raw fuel getting pushed through the vapour line (another bet that this would be bad)
those have to be there as Geezer stated. Also be sure the hoses are good and connected properly.
I found in the manual how it describes what they do and where they go:
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But in this scenario, should i used the emissions system from the talon the engine came from or the truck one?
I would say simplify it and use the truck emissions - unless there are emissions control sensors that will affect how the engine runs. Most of the emissions stuff just strangles the engine and affects how it idles.