Mikuni carburetor

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Originally Posted by xboxrox

Now if there was a similar fix for my leaking steering gear box that a seal replacement did'nt fix, I would like to know about it (does Weber make new steering gear boxes too..?)

P.P.S. I have made contact with a parts puller guy in Tacoma, WA ~ PicknPull yard there has a 1986 4X4 Dodge Power Ram50 ~ if our Rammy truck lives again after it's heart transplant I already have permission for him to pull, ship to rebuilders the steering gear box from that J/Y truck...
:thumbup:

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Did you replace only the pitman shaft seal, or other seals as well so that you had to remove the power steering unit? If it's leaking from the pitman shaft seal only, both the seal and a u-packing located above the seal need to be replaced to stop that kind of leak. Unfortunately you can't get to the u-packing without removing the P/S unit and partially disassembling it to pull out the shaft. Also, as far as I know the packing is only available in rebuild kits ($45 at RA). It's a messy job and a good vice to hold the unit while you work on it is a big help, but it's much less expensive than going the re-builder route.

FSM88 Thank you for that sage advice ~ a local mechanic/friend Vernon, did remove the box & sector shaft but did not use the entire contents of the rebuild kit software parts ~ he seemed to be aware of the dust cap & oil seal ~ he even hand sanded the sector shaft... The steering improved a lot (it was getting very sloppy) but that darn dripping leak is still there... I just got email from Gary at MitsubishiPartsCentral the only OEM part they have is the seal kit $49 shipped (?) ~ all other 4X4 power steering gear box parts are discontinued and none are to be found on the shelf... I really hoped to get a new OEM sector shaft about $120.00 (?) IF we get the carb problem solved & the truck runs then I was thinking (with your advice) get the J/Y box from Tacoma, WA PicknPull and send it to Hawaii... Use the Mitsubishi factory seal kit and DIY rebuild while keeping the truck able to drive 'n on the road until the rebuild is complete and give Vernon another $200 to swap out the steering boxes... Or, Sam has the Windward Muffler Shop across the street with an outdoor vice & lift ~ I should ask him if he has the knowhow to rebuild a steering gear box..? I like that idea ~ he replaced the muffler with the help of sealant over the welds ~ :^))

STEERING GEAR PARTS OEM
Sector Shaft - Mitsubishi (MB351208)
Power Steering Return Hose - Mitsubishi (MB243611)
Power Steering Pressure Hose - Mitsubishi (MB243610)
Power Steering Supply Hose - Mitsubishi (MB166927)
Pitman Arm - Mitsubishi (MB527227)
Seal Kit - Mitsubishi (MB351156)

EPOXY FIX ~ PHOTO STORY

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Your technique is good but I tend to agree with you - I don't think it's gonna like being exposed to fuel and heat simultaneously. The specs on epoxy claim it'll withstand fuel exposure and temperatures from 150 - 300 F but then that'll depend on how it's mixed and applied etc. Looking at the damage it's easy to figure out what happened. Either the wrong length screw was installed or it was overtightened. There appears to be a specific epoxy for fuel exposed parts but it might be subjective. The only alternative I can think of is in the too hard basket - building the damaged area up with JB weld and shaping it back and I have no idea if it'll want to stick to the carb body either. You'd have to be a renaissance master to mill and sculpt that out...

you could tap the body and run some bolts through to hold it all together. That part of the carb wont get too warm tho. fuel vaporlocks ata bout 200f

Id probably jbweld some pins through the two parts and smear the join with the same

The pin idea, hmmm (?) The household DIY 2 part epoxy I used is supposedly fuel resistant but it won't hold up to much heat... Google says there are 1 part epoxies good for 600°F and some RTV products that take the heat & fuel emmersion... Plan on spending $1,000 USD per pint or 10 oz tube for these products... EPA regulations require underground gasoline tanks be double walled & fiberglass epoxy type construction... So there are adhesives that can be emmersed in fuels & cooked, but none are in my tool box...
:thumbup:

It would be interesting to install this epoxied carb to see the results but I don't have a fire truck to follow me around...

It will just be a :worthless:

Yeah, don't invite your truck to a barbeque. I don't know if this brittle resin will take to being tapped and threaded either. It's the reason why the brass inserts are moulded into the part. I used to do something similar when I was an injection moulder (I worked production runs on VN/VP Commodore tail light assemblies) and we had to fit metal inserts into the back housings. Nice job :bang:

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Originally Posted by xboxrox

a local mechanic/friend Vernon, did remove the box & sector shaft but did not use the entire contents of the rebuild kit software parts ~ he seemed to be aware of the dust cap & oil seal ~ he even hand sanded the sector shaft... The steering improved a lot (it was getting very sloppy) but that darn dripping leak is still there...

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Looks like Vernon replaced the cross shaft seals like I did. The left over kit pieces are probably for the rest of the gear box which he didn't touch. If yours still leaks, the cross shaft and housing may be too worn. Hard to say that a J/Y box might have the same issue, but that might be the only option to try if there are no remans available.

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Originally Posted by FMS88

Looks like Vernon replaced the cross shaft seals like I did. The left over kit pieces are probably for the rest of the gear box which he didn't touch. If yours still leaks, the cross shaft and housing may be too worn. Hard to say that a J/Y box might have the same issue, but that might be the only option to try if there are no remans available.

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Thank you FMS88 for that positive guidance... :thumbup:

Since I been struggling with carburetor issues & an epoxy fix this Google thing popped up & I am saying WTF is this..? Might this be a good thing..?

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Toyota was fighting carburetor vapor lock back in the day ~ in hot conditions my truck will drive weird momentarily ~ as though the engine is dead when giving it gas from a stop when the light turns green & sometimes when rolling 'n foot off throttle then giving it gas... In those hot driving conditions, expect touching your foot to the pedal to cause the (vapor ? locked) engine to catch RPM/Power & give the driveline a hard "CLANK" banging sound, not good... So, I wonder if engineering a carburetor cooling fan is worth the time, trouble & expense, think I'm too lazy & having to spend $$ much on other fixes... No garage but time I have from Staying@Home, Thank You Covid :^))

I think the link below is where I read that vapor lock happens worse now-a-days because alcohol (ethanol) has a lower boiling point than gas... It also said why engines run weird from vapor lock (coz the air/fuel ratio is diluted by vapors instead of the liquid atomized fuel getting into the engine)...

This website was good reading for me ~ it has a lot of info about many issues ~ kinda laymen's down to Earth language:
https://www.liveabout.com/prevent-cl...heating-726159

A vanaxial fan that seems to be popular for this very problem:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Attwood-...31-4/308145195

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../17314/2515766

https://new.attwoodmarine.com/

DRY EPOXY RESULTS ~ LOTS-A-SANDING AHEAD
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The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay. Mitsubishi trucks have an inlet duct on Gen 1's above the right side headlight frame in an attempt to alleviate lack of available dense air to mix for an air/fuel charge. This is why I don't recommend or use open element air intake cleaners. The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. The EFI engine looks like that is nothing more than a standard barrel air cleaner with a MAF sensor in it (Mitsubishi used a similar air cleaner on early to mid 80's cars). I would disconnect the air duct from the inlet and extend it down towards somewhere below the frame rail and aim the end of it towards the front of the truck. The longer air duct increases torque, and being able to pull an air charge from somewhere that isn't getting heat soak from the radiator (hot air travelling up and what-not) should help. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay.The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it :thumbup:

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Agree; the glue job is not bad; wish now that I would have spent $30 for 3 teaspoons of 600F epoxy + $15 shipping ~ not really but sorta feel it... Actually, the glue joint could be Dremel excavated all around both inner & outer with a "U" groove and filled in with 600F epoxy...
I want my truck to run again...
:rolleyes:

Looks Good Xboxrox. If it helps you psychologically, those brass fittings will have been epoxied in as well unless they were placed in the mould the resin was poured in. Don't worry be happy :)

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

Looks Good Xboxrox. If it helps you psychologically, those brass fittings will have been epoxied in as well unless they were placed in the mould the resin was poured in. Don't worry be happy :)

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There are 3 holes involved in the repair glue joint 1) the corner screw hole for accel pmp attachment 2) hole for fuel passage into the bottom of the large brass fitting 3) a factory epoxy filled hole

Hole #2 will need excess epoxy removed by drilling it out
Hole #3 new epoxy penetrated a depth of 1/4" and it provides strength like a pin

Am hoping the carb still on the truck is same as the original but if not then I just might have to try using the pricy 600°F expoxy in a "U" shaped groove all around the joint...

Hoping to recv hose pinch clamp set within 5 more days -- then I can begin removing the problem carby...

Keepin Happy @ Home :)

PROGRESS W/O PICTURES ~

Not too productive today, wanted to work on removing the bad carby tonight but a tired helper/safety watch wifey & a cranky security guard put a damper on things... O'Reilly's did not have 1/4" I.D. fuel hose but they did have 5/16" so I bought one foot... I pushed pieces of it onto the jaws of my two small vise grips, one is long nose... Practiced using them to pinch off the remaining 6" long section of 5/16" hose and tested with the end in a cup of water... Verdict: no blowing bubbles, the hose pinch vise grip tools work good & I got practice how tight to clamp them... The Harbor Freight clamp set tracking # says they are scheduled to arrive October 10th, they were shipped August 18th, yikes..! Thanks to YouTube for giving me the DIY version to pinch off a fuel hose...

Tomorrow, plan to get 1/4" fuel hose from NAPA, they said they have it, it fits the fuel pump to carby connections... Supply hose from the gas tank to fuel pump is 5/16" don't plan on messing with it; will pinch it only if necessary... I should measure the water connections to the (3..?) places water hose connects to carby & truck before hiking to NAPA... When removing the carburetor, FSM says have a container to catch spilled fuel, maybe a brake bleeder bottle will work for that..? Not sure how much gas, if any, will come out, truck been sitting since June 20th... Hope the carby fuel bowl is dry by now..?

If there was more that got done today; I forgot what it might-a-been ~ On TV today, Honolulu Mayor Kirk Caldwell extended the Stay@Home quarantine another 14 days :rolleyes:

PROGRESS @ TONIGHT ~

:fire: SOMEONE TOOK MY TRUCK'S CARBURETOR..! I DID :grin: RIGHT UP & OUT TO THE LANAI TO AIR OUTSIDE FOR THE NIGHT... TOMORROW MIGHT PLAY WITH TURNING IT UPSIDE DOWN & PULL A VACUUM ON THE FUEL INLET TO SEE IF THE NEEDLE SEAT HOLDS (IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN THE SOURCE OF FLOODING) ALSO DMM THE TPS ADJUSTMENT READINGS... THE BIG REVEAL IS GONNA BE IF THE PHENOLIC BODY IS A MATCH & NOT BROKEN... WRENCHING IS NOT MY CUP OF TEA ANYMORE, TOO OLD & TOO TIRED OF PANDEMIC LOCKUP... I JUST HOPE WE GET OUR GROCERY GETTER BACK IN ACTION BEFORE THE WIFE BREAKS AN ARM CARRYING GROCERIES HOME... PICS:
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I was going to say whoever stole your carburettor - "sucks to be them!", but they'd probably sent it back to you through your windscreen :rolleyes: The pandemic is getting a lot of people edgy so stay calm and keep your head down. Throw the security guard a donut and he might leave you alone while you're in the carpark. You owe your parole officer a dinner out once you get the truck going (least you can offer her for her patience :thumbup:)

FAILURE IS SUCCESS ~

JUST NOW TESTED THE PROBLEM MIKUNI J/Y CARBURETOR & IT FAILED BIGLY :thumbup: THE NEEDLE/SEAT HOLDS VACUUM ABOUT HALF THE TIME OUT OF TEN VACUUM PULLS ON THE FUEL INLET NIPPLE WITH THE CARB UPSIDEDOWN TO CAUSE THE FLOAT TO RISE IN THE FUEL BOWL...

MAKES ME WONDER WHY THE GOOD LOOKING TRUCK IT CAME OFF WAS TAKEN TO THE JUNK YARD..?

PHOTO STORY OF TODAY'S PROGRESS ~
NEED TO SALVAGE AND USE THE PHENOLIC BODY FROM THIS 1985 CARB TO GRAFT ONTO THE CARB PARTS OF MY 1986 ORIGINAL MIKUNI ~ I'M JUST GONNA LEAVE THE MYSTERY PART STAY IN IF IT WON'T COME OUT, DON'T WANNA CRACK OR BREAK THE PHENOLIC BODY... GOT TECHRON IN THE FUEL BOWL & ON THE TOP OF THE STUCK PART, MAYBE THE SOAK WILL FREE IT..? ANYONE HAPPEN TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS MYSTERY PART..?

KEEPING SAFE -- :thumbup:http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25731&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25732&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25733&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25734&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25735&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25736&stc=1

PROGRESS PHOTOS TODAY ~ 2ND BATCH
GOT THE MYSTERY PART REMOVED AND CLEANED THE REPLACEMENT PENOLIC THROTTLE BODY ~ SOMETIME SOON WILL BEGIN ASSEMBLY OF A COMPLETE CARBURETOR (fingers X'd)
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:)):thumbup:

The mystery part is yet another check valve. If you turn it upside down it restricts the gallery through it so will either shut off fuel. The engine could theoretically still pull adequate fuel through the accelerator pump to keep it running if you end up on your lid. Man, someone was rough with pulling this carb apart in the past...

Whew, almost 6 hours since my last post..! I can understand someone getting a belly full of carburetor work & banging on it, too tedious for my liking..! My wife is trying to get the 2nd super tiny O ring on the mystery check valve, she just got it after 20 minutes of frustration... Good thing we had a carburetor to cannibalize; lost the original float hinge pin... Noticed the J/Y carb float hinge pin fits snug but on my carburetor it fits loose like the one we lost also fit loose... Must be the phenolic body keeps it from falling out, it's really loose... Had to put the needle seat in twice to get the correct shim for float level... In doing so, could not follow FSM instructions to grab it by A not B area, hopefully the needle will not hang up on a burr..? That might be why the J/Y carb needle seat would not open & close dependably..? The float adjustment was way off on it too, fuel level very high I imagine...

Thanks for Reading & Supporting especially solving the mystery, thanks geezer...

yeah float pins are usually loose as in my experience. but once installed the body stops them coming out