23,000 miles and still working hard for me.
Attachment 16497 Attachment 16498
Turning THIS...
Attachment 16499
Into THIS
Attachment 16500
Printable View
23,000 miles and still working hard for me.
Attachment 16497 Attachment 16498
Turning THIS...
Attachment 16499
Into THIS
Attachment 16500
Always good to see someone rolling up their sleeves and tackling the bigger jobs around the place by themselves - you're a busy guy Roy! And you're surrounded by some magnificent countryside. :thumbup:
The project is just about finished. And thanks, Neil :)
This photo was taken back in June.
Attachment 17390
Hey, for those who don't get e-mails from Rock Auto, here's some stuff you might want to grab while you can. LOTS of offerings.
Quote:
Hello Roy,
We have a limited number of wholesaler closeout parts available for your 1990 MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX, 1990 DODGE RAM 50 and possibly other vehicles you work on. Wholesaler closeout parts come from manufacturers, retailers or distributors who, for whatever reason, decided to reduce or liquidate inventory. We pay less for these parts and can offer them to RockAuto customers at bargain prices. Some of these products were discontinued by manufacturers and may be hard to find after these closeout parts are sold. If you're planning for future repairs or if you've postponed maintenance, now is a great time to buy the parts you need!
The links below display the wholesaler closeout parts available for your vehicles. Wholesaler closeout parts are also listed in the RockAuto catalog alongside our regular inventory.
Wholesaler closeouts for your 1990 MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true
Wholesaler closeouts for your 1990 DODGE RAM 50:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true
We regularly add new wholesaler closeout parts to the RockAuto catalog. We will send an update email like this one, covering up to three of your vehicles, at most once every three months. To be notified immediately when a closeout part for your vehicle is added to our catalog, sign up for our RSS feed by clicking an icon in our catalog.
Enjoy the savings, and thanks for being a RockAuto customer!
Tom Taylor
Vice President, Marketing
www.RockAuto.com
PONY GETS A DIFFERENT LOOK
A friend had a camper shell laying around his barn, and gave it to me...free. It's just a lightweight aluminum shell, but it will keep rain off tools and equipment. I will miss my lumber racks...I liked how they looked...but this even allows me to actually camp out if I want to.
Attachment 17932 Attachment 17933 Attachment 17934
I had a cap on Geronimo way back when, and I bought it with a boat rack on it - it allowed me to move ladders easily. It was attached to the heavy metal bead on the front and back corners.
That's pretty much the modification I have in mind for this one...I need to be able to carry a ladder, and occassionally a 10 foot something-or-other.
The little guy just turned 240,000 a couple days ago, happy as can be.
Attachment 17935 Attachment 17936
EDIT:
The camper shell process is on another thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Royster-Shell
Happy anniversary to me...26,000 miles on the truck, and three years on the forum. What a learning experience it's been, and how thankful I am to all of you who patiently helped me to learn here.
Attachment 18179
^^^^nice
Royster, the truck came out really nice!!! Thanks for all your documentation, it is something I am frequently referring back to as I progress through repairs and upgrades on my D-50. Thanks again!!!
Wow, I appreciate the shout.
I came into this blind, and had to grope my way through a lot of stuff...but guys on the forum helped me through and I learned a ton about these engines. I've often thought to condense my experiences to a more manual form, but time has never allowed that. Glad that, just as it is, my thread has helped you.
Rear Brake Overhaul
It was long overdue, and I wasn't going to get through inspection this year without it. As it turns out, many of the parts were pretty tired, and the shoes, themselves, were very ready for replacing...even though they still had plenty of meat.
BELOW:
With the drums off, the passenger's side before dismantling. I'm glad I got all parts and hardware for this project - re-using old springs or adjusters is risky business.
Attachment 19102 Attachment 19103
BELOW:
All shoes and hardware off (including wheel cylinders) (driver's side), the backing plate ready to be washed. (I capped off the fluid lines before washing to keep water from getting into the system). I used "Awesome" first, rinsed with water (from a garden sprayer) then did a final rinse with brake cleaner spray. Later photos from the right side show the clean-up.
Attachment 19104 Attachment 19105
BELOW:
Shoes and hardware installed.
Attachment 19106 Attachment 19107
Next post I'll show the procedure - it might help someone in the future...there are a couple points the Haynes manual doesn't even mention that are pretty crucial.
Brake Overhaul - preamble
First, when you start out on this project, get some J. B. Blaster or Liquid Wrench parts-loosener on the brake fluid line fittings and the wheel cylinder bolts. I did this two days in advance, to give it plenty of time to work. I performed two applications, one just before working on the project.
Second, do NOT try to get those brake lines off without using a brake wrench...it looks like a box-end with a small gap, to allow the wrench to slip over the brake line, and gives maximum grip on the fitting. This truck uses a 10 MM brake wrench.
Attachment 19117
Attempting to use anything but a brake wrench on the line fittings guarantees you will end up trying to use a vise grip, because you WILL strip the fitting heads using a crescent-end wrench. And that means replacing the brake lines. You can buy just the single wrench in many places, or a small set for not much money.
The Haynes manual will walk you through taking off the old shoes and hardware. You might do well to set them off to the side, in the configuration they were in, for visual reference. (I had the luxury of my parts-truck differential to resource placement).
BELOW:
The backing plate all cleaned. I sprayed Awesome, then used a small wire brush to scrub everything. Be sure to cap off the brake line with a rubber fitting or something appropriate for keeping water out of the line...water in the hydraulic system can heat up inside the wheel cylinders and expand, binding up the brakes.
After the Awesome I used brake spray cleaner for a good rinse.
Attachment 19110
Once everything was wiped down and dried, I sandpapered the contact points on the backing plate (that the brake shoes slide on), and reasonably greased them. Take note that the driver's side wheel cylinder does NOT have a bleeding nipple: the line to the passenger side is the upper connection, so if you order the set of wheel cylinders, be sure to note that only ONE has a bleed nipple, and you can be sure that is the passenger side.
Attachment 19120 Driver-side brake line connections.
Next was to install the wheel cylinder...I opted to fit the brake line FIRST, then mounted the cylinder snugly before tightening the brake line fully. (I removed the driver's side wheel cylinder first, and rebuilt that side before going to the passenger side. During that process it's important to keep an eye on your brake fluid level in the reservoir).
It's helpful to have a short box to lay the parking brake connection on while attaching it to the brake shoe.
Attachment 19111
Note the horse shoe clamp: I neglected to crimp the ends together (I was distracted with photography!), and it fell out once everything was in place. I was able to re-install it, with enough room to crimp it tight, without having to take everything apart.
Also note some grease on the pivoting points, and the Haynes manual suggests you put a bit of grease on the wheel cylinder shoe contacts. Anywhere there's movement, you want grease *ahem*.
Next, the self-adjuster goes on. There is another horse shoe clip that comes with the brake hardware set, and there is a groove it fits in. Note the spring placement.
Attachment 19112 Attachment 19113
Please bear with my difficulties in this post: I'm working with a new system, and getting the photos right takes a hit-and-miss effort. In the two photos above, the picture on the right is absent the small blue spring...that spring is visible in the left photo. That little spring holds the self-adjuster arm in place, and there is no mention of it in the Haynes book. Getting that spring in place before securing the brake shoe to the backing plate is important, as there's no way to do it once the shoe is mounted. The photo below may or may not help you with the placement: this is looking on the back-side of the shoe, to show the spring secured to the shoe itself - the flat part of the spring connects to the top of the adjuster arm.
Attachment 19114
Those parts secured, the shoe is then swung up into position. There are grooves on the bottom mounting in which the shoe fits into...
Attachment 19118
I used small bungee cords to hold the shoe in place, while I got the hold-down spring installed (it requires both hands).
Attachment 19115
BELOW- The other shoe is first held in place with the hold-down spring, the bungee cord helps with that. The top spring is then secured to the top of the shoe. Getting that top spring into position is a real effort, keeping everything aligned.
Attachment 19116
Next is to condition the drums and put them on, so I can bleed the hydraulic system, then adjust the brakes. I asked at a local shop how much they wanted to turn drums, and the answer was $30 each. Ouch!! I'll sandpaper-scruff them up, enough to break glaze and smooth down any high spots.
I had bought paint for the drums, but time won't allow for that detail. Also, I've come to the realization that I'm done spending long hours and deep dollars for details that few will notice...and what benefit is it if they DO notice? Answer: three seconds of "oh wow" then they're back to texting about belly buttons. In my old age, I just want to keep the truck operating in good order, keep it looking reasonably respectable, and enjoy reliability.
In regards to cleaning the backing plate: I have been in professional shops and witnessed the mechanic not bothering to clean off the backing plate, putting new brake shoes over dirt and gunk, re-using old springs, and generally not giving a damn about the job. The beauty of our being able to work on these trucks ourselves is that we CAN do clean repairs and maintenance, and know the job was done well.
This brake overhaul cost me near $80, all from RockAuto, so almost half of that cost was shipping. Advance doesn't even OFFER brake hardware for these trucks, and NAPA is more expensive than I can justify. All of us on this forum KNOW about waiting for parts.
But good things come to those who wait :)
Thanks for letting me share yet another adventure with my D-5o.
Roy
Road tested, everything is working well. I'm going to do a final bleed, and a final adjustment, now that the new hardware and shoes have had a chance to seat.
Just a couple of photos of the truck today: it's firewood season, so the camper shell is off. It reminds me of when I first saw the truck, some 4 years ago.
Attachment 19722
Having trouble downloading...
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Oh, heck - I missed posting on my "Join Date" anniversary. I got to thinking, today, that when I joined, I couldn't figure out how to find the type engine I have.
Man, have I come a long way !
As always, much gratitude for all of you on this forum.
In recent truck news, I changed the oil, and was going to replace a radiator hose due to a leak I noticed on top of the radiator. Turns out to be the seam needs re-soldering. I also have a master cylinder leak, so that needs addressing very soon.
Other than that, the truck has been just great, giving good service.
You're my idol. :)
Merry Christmas!
Many thanks, GotToGo :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GotToGo
I'm not sure how or why, but this thread has almost 80,000 views. Not bragging, more like stunned that I could come in here as a know-nothing and get that many views.
It's a great forum with great people.
good job on the truck!
on the brake lines.... I have the flare wrench, and they too have slipped on the reeaalllly stubborn line fittings
For years now, I've gone straight to the vice grip, once the regular 10mm doesn't crack the line with a li'l effort.
Tighten the vice grip 'just the right amount' and it never damages the fitting. Then the wrench goes on fine. Works everytime
^^^
Yes a great truck & build !!
BJH324JH asked about jack placement - it secures under the driver's side, the base of the jack towards the tailgate. I tried to get a photo from the owner's manual, but it came out blurry.
Under the passenger's side there is a clamp for the lug wrench and wheel nut ("wheel nut" being the mechanism that holds the spare tire).
Hope that helps ya !
For the record, the truck just turned 250,000 miles.
I want to shout out a "thank you" for the overall Good Will of the forum, and to thank camoit for his work to keep it respectable and moving forward.
Particularly, a repeat "thank you" to ragragtimetime, who brought me into the digital age...along with my sister, who gave me a laptop last year for my 60th birthday. Some might remember that I used an analog camera for posting, which required sending the film out to be developed. Ragragtimetime practically gave me his old digital camera, and I actually figured out how to use it.
Attachment 20213
I actually still use that camera, although the Kodak digital's memory chip works in the laptop.
Because of this Good Will, I'm able to share and contribute. I'm quite grateful for that. I never expected to be much on this forum, other than a dumb guy asking stupid questions.
I'm STILL a dumb guy asking stupid questions, but they're illustrated better, these days :)
Thanks, each and every one of you ~
Roy
P.S.
I'm not sure what to tell you about all that moss growing on my computer and desk...
Attachment 20214
No such thing as a dumb question, only giving a bad answer (nobody learns anything, other than the victim of bad advice). A genuine mistake is something you've done and not learned from (you've walked away empty handed from the experience). "Beginners mind" has advantages - there's an opportunity to test an untried path, sometimes with results that are inspired genius in disguise. Just stay hungry to learn and don't be an ass about it :)
Good stuff, Mr. Geeze !
Hey Roy, it's good to see that your build/restoration has been going well. You have certainly contributed a wealth of knowledge to this forum through your build thread. The truck looks great!
Woo Hoo, thanks a bunch, R50N. Good to see you back. The truck is doing well, but rust is really catching up with it. In a month or two I'll be putting it into the garage and wire-wheeling the frame...the State Inspection people have been frowning on the condtion of the frame, and this year offered subtle suggestions to do something about it.
In other news, I just yesterday put the camper shell back on. The whole rig needs a good wash after this nasty winter.
CHEERS !
My rear axles have developed a leak, so it's going to be necessary to replace the seals.
I've never replaced differential oil seals before, though from the instructions in the service manual, it seems a pretty straight forward task. I looked for the replacement parts on RockAuto and it appears they're available.
I would appreciate anyone's knowledge in the matter, and specifics on the size, and possibly part number for the oil seals. ALso, hearing from anyone who has performed this task would be a great help.
Many thanks !!!
if you are changing the seals, you need to change the bearings as well, since the bearings have to come off to change the seals. The bearings are a press on fit, though others have come up with ways to do it without the press, as a pipe to slide down the shaft that contacts the bearing to allow it to be driven onto the shaft.
Thanks a bunch, pennyman - just exactly what I needed to know :)
My Join Date anniversary (two days ago) - 'been here five years. Wow, where does the time go!
As a follow-up, I ended taking the truck to a garage to have the axle seals replaced. They had a real time of it, and apparently there's a retainer clip that was unavailable in the U.S.. Don't ask what that repair cost.
Anyways, thanks to all for 5 years of great information, friendship, and bad jokes :)
I have enjoyed this thread!
I am back to working on the D-50 - the "Check Engine" light has been pestering me. I finally pulled the trouble codes, and it's fairly pedestrian stuff, except the idle servo. RockAuto doesn't offer one, and the engine temperature sending unit (for the ECU) isn't available, either (just the one for the gauge). The oxygen sensor is no biggie.
I've made a lot of progress since my stroke :) and it's good to be back in the garage. I have more work to do on the truck: it's due up for inspection, this month, and I have some frame rust issues to contend with. Meanwhile, I want to get it running good as I can. Some of the things I replaced 50,000 miles ago are due up for replacement, but HEY! I got 50,000 miles out of the work I put into it at the beginning of this thread!! (I recently had to replace the clutch cable, which broke at precisely the best possible time and place - as I was backing it into my garage!)
Someone had said that these little trucks respond to the love you put into them, and I can testify that they do.
This thread has topped 100,000 views - who'd have thought that?
Never one to give up in the face of adversity ;) It will take time but it's surprising what the human body can do even after experiencing serious trauma. I bet it must feel good to grasp a wrench back in familiar territory.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS
I have the D-50 on jack stands in the garage. The rust situation does not look good at all, but I will give a try to do what I can. I really don't think it will pass inspection. The rust in the frame is pretty serious, and one spot is right next to the gas tank. I simply don't have the resources to keep the truck on the road. Whether it passes inspection or not, it's time to put it up for sale.
Miracles happen, folks, and if one comes my way, I'll certainly let you know.
The rust is too much for me to address, so the truck is going up for sale. I'll post it in the "for sale" section. Just for the record, I will not part it out.
It's the end of a wonderful journey, and the end of this thread. I have no regrets, and I've certainly appreciated being part of this community. I'll stay on, for whatever I can contribute. But my Ram 50 days are nearing an end.
Another adventure waits for us all :)
Sorry to hear Roy, but glad you'll stick around
Many thanks, Giovanni89. I've been asked to post some photos of the rust, and I'll do that later today. Thanks also to those who PM'd.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS
As requested, a few photos of the rust damage. This may not look too bad to some, but the photos don't show the extent of the rust. Also, I was unable to get shots in front of the leaf springs.
Attachment 23421
The above photo is the passenger side, and the tail pipe can be seen. A piece of framing for my bumper is seen through the rust hole.
Attachment 23422
Above, the load adjuster for the brakes is detached from its frame mount, due to rust. The bed cross member is shot.
Attachment 23423
Above, the rust through the bottom of the frame is in several areas, some at crucial points. One is right next to the gas tank, and both sides in front of the leaf spring mounts are rusted through.
Attachment 23424
Above, the piece of frame you see wedged in there is for my bumper mount. The bungee cord is holding the spare tire chain and mount, to keep it from flopping around.
I went into this with the intention of wire-wheeling things in preparation for welding patches, but in some places, there's nothing to weld TO. The repair would have to necessarily be made with the bed off, and fuel tank removed. In my present condition, this is beyond my doing.
Many areas of the body are rusted, too. though the extra fenders and doors could be used, as they're relatively rust-free.
As regards that bumper I made: I backed into a brick abutment once, so it was well worth the effort to install it - otherwise, the rear end would have suffered some serious damage.
She's looking pretty nasty. Over here you just couldn't repair it legally, but we have a whole lot of l200 chassis available to swap the body on to. They are quite a popular base for hit rods here. I'd fully recommend buying another, it's way more fun driving one than it is laying under one getting welding slag in your ears. You might swap to an automatic one?
Roy, I've been thinking if you still want to work on the truck, I'm 90 minutes up I-81 from you. I would be willing to donate some time helping you strip the backend to address that rust. I have no experience in welding, but I'm not afraid to tackle a new skill with some initial guidance. I'm offering two hands, if you want to try. Not pressuring if you don't think it can be done. Just laying it out there if the concern is removing the bed, tank, etc...
R50N, that is such a kind and generous offer :)
The problems are a bit deeper, for me: I don't have the time, money or focus for the truck, anymore. October is upon us, and I have tons of stuff to do before winter sets in. My days of working on a project vehicle are over. After 3 heart attacks and a stroke, I'm left fairly weak a lot of the time. Just getting firewood in, this year, is going to be a struggle.
Your offer reflects what a great spirit you have, and I thank you for your thoughtfulness.
Tortron, thanks for the reply. I may find another Ram 50, one never knows. They pop up for sale around here from time to time. But I'm on a tight-squeeze income, so for now, I'm relying on my Dakota (which IS automatic).
Understood. From the pictures it does look like a lot of TLC and fabrication is needed. I definitely thinks it's repairable, and would be nice if someone on the board bought it, and continued posted updates in this thread. ;)
That would be cool, and could happen. One of the problems I have is how remote the area is where I live. As for fixing it myself - I don't have welding equipment. I won't part it out, mainly because it's too much bother to pull and ship parts. Though most of my experiences sending parts (from my parts truck) went well, there were a couple of no-pays. Then, of course, I'd have a dead vehicle to contend with.Quote:
I definitely thinks it's repairable, and would be nice if someone on the board bought it, and continued posted updates in this thread.
It's still drive-able, and I think fixable, but it would take someone with a property to park it on, and a garage to work on it. It's a precarious situation, and we'll just have to see how it plays out.
About to go into sketchy territory... do they check the frame numbers where you are? A wrecked truck with a solid frame, some elbows and swapping parts - sans welding and cutting. Added bonus is the donor frame can be given a full clean up and health check during reassembly.
^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer
????
I appreciate the thought, Neil, but that is way out of reach, for me. I simply have to let the truck go. By the way, it did go through inspection today, and in fact failed. My next step is to advertise it in the local Trader paper.
And the step after that is to tell the new owner about MightyRam50 ;]
Quote:
Originally Posted by royster
This truck is a part of Roy and his journey. If there is a new owner in it's future, you won't be getting a better maintenance record than an online thread...Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni89
Thanks for the kindness, all. I have every intention of telling the new owner about "Roy's Garage"...the legacy goes with the truck :)
And indeed - I'm sure there are few who have an online history of the vehicle they bought. Nice thought, Geezer!
I try to run the truck every few days, but this morning I went to start it and the battery was low. I have a battery charger on it now. It's sad not to be able to daily-drive the little guy.
I have an ad in a trade paper, and it's been running for about 4 weeks. No takers. It is possible to put "farm use" tags on it and drive it, but my intention is to let it go: I went the journey, and the journey is over.
My thanks to Claych who asked about my health: I'm doing alright, certainly much better than back in May. With both a weak heart and damage from the stroke, my activities are limited.
^^^
Many Thanks royster :)
Today marks 6 years of being on this forum. What a life-transformation it's been!
A great group of people here!
:clap: This is by far the best online community experience I've had the privilege of interacting with. It's not only helped people who had needed answers and advice on their trucks, but I think it has offered encouragement and support in personal circumstances. No toxic comments section here... :)
I agree: no other forum I know of (or have been a member of) has been as kind and caring as this one.
As Fate would have it, my join date happens to be the Winter Solstice...so may your Solstice be blessed :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUNUkJ93Qrg
royster, that kerosene heater in one of your garage photos reminds me of the one I had in upstate NY... I fiddled with balsa wood R/C airplanes in the basement of our apartment using that heater (15,500 BTUs..?)... My first experience with kerosene heaters was in Japan, I'm pretty sure they still use them... Damn, I can't take the cold, stay warm my friend...
They absolutely do. My trips there always include a few days at our parent company's plant in a rural area. Lots of houses have small (maybe 50-100 gallon) home heating oil tanks outside. Because they are outside, they use kerosene. It's pretty common to have room heaters and only heat the room you are in.
Hope you're doing well Roy.
Thanks, guys. I'm doing well. The kerosene heater is still out there, and still works. I have a long history of heating with them, and despite "safety warnings", they reach a perfect cooking temperature.
Today we're getting snow, and my wood stove is just humming along. Three cats and a pot of coffee: what a great life :)
royster, your comments about "a great life" with the wood stove 'n coffee & critters sounds like what my brother Bill would say of his life in Penn Valley, California... I miss that guy, he passed last March at the age of 85... I think 15,500 BTUs was for my old air conditioner and those heaters put out more like 50,000 BTUs... One good thing about a blanket of snow: it usually quiets things down a bit to a peaceful level of noise...
Let's both stay warm ;)
Aloha - George
P.S. I watched the Yule video roy, pretty neat; BTW, my brother Bill's birthday was 25 December 1932
End of an era: I sold the truck.
Glad to hear you got a buyer Roy. Someone will appreciate your endeavors with that truck. :thumbup:
Thanks, Geeze. The guy is 80 years old but very agile. He went through my maintenance log and was very impressed with all that I've put into the truck. Unfortunately, he doesn't have internet access, so (alas) he won't be joining MightyRam50, or seeing my thread here.
That little truck was one heck of a journey, and I can't thank all of you enough for help and support. I'll still be around, and you can never tell: another Ram 50 might be in my future. Ya never know!!
Quote:
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
UPDATE: I just talked to the old guy I sold the truck to. He had taken it to a mechanic, who deemed it "unrepairable" - the rust was so extensive it just isn't worth repairing. So it was sold to someone as a parts truck.
It's a little bit sad, to me, and yet I'm grateful for the journey the truck took me on. Plus there's a cache of D-50 parts for the area.
Definitely the end of an era.
Oh damn. The rust was way worse than you thought. Still, it held up for you all those years...
It was very bad, and certainly nothing I could have tackled, even in good health.Quote:
Originally Posted by royster
And, yes: 6 years of a wonderful journey. Sad to think we lose one of these trucks every week. Definitely a rare breed.
Hi, All. I'm bumping this post due to interest regarding the oil pump in a 4g64.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26527
Robert: here is the cap you need to remove to access the balance shaft bolt -
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9&d=1390427774