My 95 max build

Never mind. It does hook into the fuse box. It was had to tell. Anyways I've been messing around with ideas for this wire tuck. I was going to run it under the dash but I think there's just to much back there to run a harness through there. So I decided running it around and under the front bumper would be a good idea as well. How do you guys go about measuring for extending parts of the harness? Any and all tips and tricks are welcome. I just laid it out along where I plan to run it out and marked what needs extended. This away I can kind of measure how far to extend each section. I'm not sure if this is the preferred method but it what I could figure out would work. This method isn't set in stone yet. I'm still trying to figure out where to run it. Maybe I could even relocate the ECU to the DS and go from there. Question is where would I put it. Attachment 17812Attachment 17813Attachment 17814Attachment 17815Attachment 17816Attachment 17817

Okay so I found it mighty be easier to just get it behind the dash. I think it mighty require less extending of wires.

I would suggest putting it behind the glove box. It will be away from heat and will make it easy enough to get to without having to squeeze hands behind the razor sharp metal of the dash frame (that's if there's space). Other option is under the drivers side seat. It won't get as much heat from under the floor compared to the passenger side and you can run the loom along the cab brace rails where the seats are mounted to.

I wire tucked my truck, my harness is ran under/behind the dash. No pics of that specifically I don't think but there are a couple of wire tuck pics in my build thread I believe(they will be on the last page or two).

Thanks guys, My plan is in process. I plan to run it under the dash and out both the passenger side and drivers side to run behind both fenders. In a U pattern. With the ECU being left in the stock location. I think this will be the best option. Ive already unwrapped the whole harness and I'm about to start cutting some wires to pull them back. I think I've counted maybe 5 wires so far that I will have to extend. The rest is just unraveling the wires and pulling them back. I hope to get pictures up tomorrow sometime. Should get the block and head to the machine shop by Friday. From there I'll know how to proceed.

Pretty much how I did mine. Stock ecu location.
I drilled a new hole down low on pass side for o2, maf, and few other wires(not finished still).
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...psqgenyzvh.jpg
Then ran the rest behind the dash and to the drivers side.
The main engine harness I drilled a new hole for to the left of the heater core and out of sight behind the engine and ran the wires that way. You can't see them but its the general area where they come out http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...psshvtuhth.jpg
Then the rest I ran out behind the drivers side inner fenders and to the front of the core support and throught it.

Thanks, just the kind of information I'm looking for. I was trying to minimize drilling though. Looks good too. I was going to run the wires for the distributor and injectors through the stock grommet on the passenger side and just tuck those the best I can behind the motor. I was just deal with having to see a few wires from some of the harness. Mostly whats on the passenger side which runs to the O2, MAF, Injectors, Alternator(probably run along the frame), and everything else. Pictures of the harness at work are followed.

Attachment 17832Attachment 17833Attachment 17834Attachment 17835Attachment 17836Attachment 17837

Sounds like you have a good plan, and looks like you're going to execute it fine. Keep us updated with pics, should end up looking pretty good.

So spoke to the machine shop and they quoted about $150 to balance the whole rotating assembly since ill be getting rid of the balance shafts. It all goes to the machine shop tomorrow. Ill know more on prices after i speak with him.

So after sleeping on the idea and then mocking up my intake to figure out where everything goes I decided to steal your idea droppedmitsu and cut a small hole in my firewall somewhere around the area that you did. I appreciate the pictures and the idea. Definitely got to give you the credit. Again Thanks

Droppedmitsu do you happen to remember how big of a hole you drilled for that? I did a 2inch to run down the fender but i didnt really want one that big for behind the motor.

about 2 - 2 1/4". I had to make sure I could fit every sensor connector/plug for the engine through it

Okay thank you. Ill just use the 2 inch then. Thanks

I went ahead and removed the heater core to drill a 2 inch hole right between the heater core and the cooling unit. It was very successful and appears to be a very good location (lets hope). I'm just about done with the harness as well. I did a test last night to see what still needs to have some addition and it appears to just be the headlight harness by about 6inches or so. Not a big deal I can accomplish that once on the truck. I will post pictures sometime today of my mess. The interior is just a disaster since the dash is out and small bits and pieces are in the floorboard and on the seat. I should hear back from the machine shop tomorrow sometime on a quote and what since bearings ill be needing. He seems to be very knowledgeable and he's been around for about 50 years. His professional opinion on balancing the rotating assembly seemed to be not to.

Here are some updated pictures. Attachment 17849Here you can see the hole I drilled from. I drilled a pilot hole from the inside and than I finished from the outside. Worked nicely. I hope its a good locationAttachment 17850Hole I drilled in under the dash on the drivers side for the restAttachment 17851Engine bay view.Attachment 17852Just an idea of what how I solder my wiresAttachment 17853 My make shift table lol because my shop is all taken up and I have no room to work in there. Not pretty but it works

The bottom ends on these engines are pretty good. My rods were only a few grams weight difference between each assembly. If you run a bead of some kind of waterproof sealant around the grommet when you pass the loom through it should be protected from water running into the fender.

Thanks for that geezer101. That's my plan is to get grommets and figure out how to seal them pretty tight. I just finished the wiring harness a few minutes ago now all I have to do is rewrap it. Should I just use basic electrical tape like 3m 33 or does anyone else have any ideas? Id like to get it in soon so I can get my dash back together. Once that's done I can continue on the engine bay. Clean up and order some paint to make it look good. Still undecided on what to do with the passenger side inside fender well. Maybe I can get an aftermarket fender well or something. I really haven't thought on it much.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robzombie10

Should I just use basic electrical tape like 3m 33 or does anyone else have any ideas?

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With all the work you're putting into this, you might want to look into actual harness tape. It resists heat and oil better and doesn't turn into a gummy mess like basic electrical tape.

I bought some Tesa tape for a harness I did in my Audi. It's fabric based and not as gummy. I don't know how it'd hold up in an engine bay though. Temperature wise it'd probably be ok, but I just worry it'd pick up fine dirt like a sponge.

Thanks. I plan to use split loom as well. Ill look into that tape youre talking about.

One thing I've learned from tearing apart junkyard cars and poking around my Audi. German cars and Volvos have REALLY nice wiring harnesses.

I also use Tesa? tape on my wiring harness. It is a cloth based taped and super durable. I also found it from having a german car and noticing how nice the wiring is done on them.

or you can get the rubber linerless tape like you use to seal hoses or insulating wires. It seals to itself with no glue - its self vulcanizing. The wire loom is an extra touch.

Pennyman this tape you're talking about, do you have a link or a name of something along that line. I don't think I know what you're really talking about. I get what it does just never knew there was such a thing.

I think he means this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/010476-Self-V.../dp/B000MY55F4

I've got a small roll of it for repairing low pressure fluid hoses. I wouldn't want to use it for harnesses though. It'd be a huge pain if you ever needed to get inside it for a repair.