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Thread: My 95 max build

  1. #1

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    My 95 max build

    Well where should I start. First off my truck a 95 Mitsubishi mighty max 5 speed with the 2.4 4g64 motor with about 157000. When I bought this truck it was my intentions to do anything with it but that quickly changed. This truck is just a fun little truck to drive. After driving it about 2000 miles its started to smoke when you first start it up. First thing I checked was the compression. The issue I found was to be the valve seats. Compression came out at 140, 140, 114, and 120. No good. So right there I decided to just pull the motor and rebuild. My intentions are not to boost performance or anything so I think the stock 4g64 sohc will be great. I might do minor work like port match the intake and head, ram intake, emissions delete, and maybe some bigger injector if anyone has any advice on that. Well I tore down the motor and will soon be getting it to the machine shop for cleaning and having the cylinder and crank looked over. Everythings looks excellent to the eye but we shall see. I will also be having them flatten the head. I will do most of the work myself once the shop tells me if I need oversized rings or anything else. Does anyone have any experience with the DNJ kits? I was looking into that as a budget option. Of course I'm going oem for the waterpump. Anyone have any advice for a beginner to these trucks? What could I do for small performance gains with very little money while I'm in there. I really don't want to do the dohc swap. It seems like a lot of work and I'm on a pretty tight budget. Plus I really like the look of the stock sohc. All advice and comments are welcome. Thank you for taking the time to look.
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  2. #2

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    Another member is having issues with DNJ stuff. I don't know if that's indicative of the quality of their products in general - maybe have a McGoogle and see what the overall feedback is like. Port work won't yield any HP but it will improve 'performance'. The consensus on the 4G64 is that due to the lack of aftermarket support you won't have a lot of options without going full custom. If you have the skills and can find either a kit or a pre-owned programmable ECU, you can retune the engine but will still need to spend some on a custom cam grind and somehow reset the cam timing. An aggressive cam, up the compression, a decent exhaust system and headers, some head work, a programmable ECU and a cold air induction - it'll get the truck moving nicely.

  3. #3

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    Yes Ive googled then and the reviews are all mixed. Good and bad. I think ill just stick to oem that i can get for pretty vheap through work. Maybe I will just rebuild this motor to stock specs and plan for a 4g63t swap in the future. Lots of reading that still needs to be done before I tackle that project. Thanks for the feedback.

  4. #4

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    Does anyone recommend a specific brand of main and rod bearings?

  5. #5

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    Maybe I can just do a standard build and then later focus on a dohc swap. A little update. Spoke with the machine shop and its going to be $100 for cleaning and decking the head. $35 if the cylinders need honed. They look good to the eye, and $120 if it needs a valve grind. Im also having him check the specs in the crank and can shaft to be sure it is in spec. Again everything appears to be good to the eye. No scoring or anything. Read a bunch of reviews on the DNJ stuff. I might go with them for the bearings and gasket set. Im sure there gaskets cant be worse than fel-pro.

  6. #6

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    Finally got time to the head down. Valve guids look good. No play in the valves at all, but the carbon build up on the valves and seats is pretty extensive. Looks like a valve job will need to done. I dont think lapping alone will do enough

  7. #7

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    The head probably has never been touched. If this is a 'fixer-upper' and you feel game (and have the time and some tools to do the job) maybe do your own port work before you have the shop commence work on it. Shops charge uber bucks for port work and really, unless you are heavy handed and can't google, anyone can tidy up cylinder head ports. Doesn't matter what kind of head, the basic principles are always the same.

  8. #8

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    Geezer. My plan was to do my own port work for that very reason. Machine shop charge alot because it can be time consuming. You're saying I should do it before? My thought was afterwards. Just curious does it matter really?

  9. #9



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    most of these heads do not match the intake and exhaust gaskets, restricting flow. The intake is a rough casting as well. It helps a lot to port match and work the runners.
    Pennyman1
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  10. #10

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    The reason why it's best to do it before the shop mills it is that if you get them to do the work first and you screw up somewhere, they'll have to rework the head. It is easy enough to accidentally buzz a valve seat or the cylinder head face during work on the valve bowls or even just damaging it from resting it on a bench top carelessly - the shop will be able to mill it once you're happy with the port work.

  11. #11

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    Okay thanks everyone for the input. I will get started on the head work soon enough and just have the shop start on cleaning and checking out the block. The cylinders look good. Maybe a honing might be needed but I really don't think that's necessary. Ill let the machine shop determine that.

  12. #12

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    While waiting on funds to put the motor back together I have decided to tackle another idea. That idea is a mild wire tuck and engine bay cleaning. By mild I'm not talking a full wire tuck and that's primarily because I'm not sure exactly how to tackle that. So my idea is to just try and tuck the wires that run along the drivers side and relocate that to the inside of the fender, and then when the motor is back in try and tuck what I can. I'd had an idea of tucking the main harness running along the firewall where the wiper arms are located but decided against that. Id like to tuck that but I really need some ideas. I cant find a lot of info on here about it mainly because I'm keeping the 4g64 sohc. I found one write up but it was for 93 carbureted. Good details and gave me the idea to tuck inside the fender. But I still have injector wires and everything else to worry about. In the mean time I removed the evap canister and the coolant overflow. Another idea was to cut out the bracket for those 2 items and relocate the coolant overflow to where the washer fluid reservoir is located. That would eliminate 1 ugly bracket. Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #13

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    I still cant figure out why my photos rotate.

  14. #14

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  15. #15

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    That damage from the previous owners accident isn't to bad. Should look decent if I take a wire wheel to it and paint it. Id like to maybe cut it out and replace but I do not know if I can just get a part or not. Maybe I could go to pick and pull will a battery powered grinder and cut one from a donor truck.

  16. #16

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    Removed the fender and man does that damage look worse. Hopefully i can find a yard somewhere that will cut pieces out for me to reweld in.

  17. #17



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    can't you pull it out using clamps, chain, and a tree or telephone pole?
    Pennyman1
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  18. #18

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    I don't have the capabilities of doing that. I was able to get it out a little but I still need it out about another inch. I ran some measurements and it has about an inch to go. If you look at the photos you can see that it crunched pretty bad. If it gets covered up I'm not to worried about it, but the wrinkles on the fender I'd like to get rid of to make the engine bay look good. I'm doing a wire tuck and painting it up. I'm a newb at some of this and I'm not afraid to cut that section out and replace but I have to find a place to get the replacement. I've called the salvage yards near me and nobody has a mighty max but I didn't ask about a d50 opps. I didn't think about it at the time. Thanks for the response. I just want this to be done right the first time so I do not have to do it a second time. There's no better time to do it than now. Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #19

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    Well I found a 93 d50 about 120 miles away and pick n pull. I need to call and make sure the passenger is in good shape before I make the drive. There shouldn't be a different is the 93 d50 to the 95 mighty max right??

  20. #20

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    Threre's also an 88 d50 in Kansas city about 90 miles away. I think the years I need to look for are 86-96 is that right?

  21. #21



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    86 2nd gen to 96 - there are 2 body styles in 86 - 1st gen to march 86, then 2nd gen march 86 and on
    Pennyman1
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  22. #22

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    Thank you Pennyman

  23. #23

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    So here's an update on my truck. I only get very little time to work on it between work and spending time with the family. I'm still undecided on what to do about the damage fender well. What I have gotten around to doing was cleaning up some of the brackets that I wont be needing anymore. Starting with the EVAP bracket, and the intake bracket. I wont be needing that since I'm going to figure out what ram air intake to use. I also got rid of all those harness brackets.

  24. #24

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  25. #25

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    I also got rid of those little soft plastic/foam or whatever splash shields located between the frame and fender well. Ill need to weld in a few holes and add some body filler to smooth before painting. Can somebody help me here. What are these cylinoids or whatever for. They are under the dash next to the firewall. There's absolutely nothing hooked up to them. Here is a picture of them Click image for larger version. 

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