Yep, that'll work. Only issue I could see going against you is if the lines are going to be a little restrictive in regards to oil flow...
Yep, that'll work. Only issue I could see going against you is if the lines are going to be a little restrictive in regards to oil flow...
Quote:
Originally Posted by thehive
Ok Folks,Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Ya'll are gonna have to help Me out here...
??? this is an power steering cooler ????
God Holy Lord, an 8 plate bar and fin cooler for power steering ???
(not doubting, just asking ) !!!
LOL, ??? Mitsu was trying to cool p/s fluid temps for an beer chiller in the console??? LOL !!
geezer,
If memory serves Me (lol) most of the import HYD lines have an OD of 11mm & and ID of 8mm?
Cooling of synthetic oil should not be an problem.
'Homer' moment, !duh! this is an power steering fluid cooler ???
yeah the lines are both 3/8 coming and going, should be plenty for oil flow
Is that a Mitsubishi power steering cooler?
Yup yup, left over off the parts truck
I know right! I though it might have been the tranny cooler at first but that cooler is on the other side of the core support still hooked up
The oil coolers on the starquests had fitting on the cooler that screws right into the cooler and into a block between the oil filter and the engine block. The size of the cooler looks about the same size as the starquest, if not larger. That looks like the p/s cooler off a V6 truck 1 ton or with towing /hd package. On a second look , that is exactly like a starquest engine oil cooler. Be sure to flush it thoroughly to prevent contaminating your engine oil.
Awesome info about the oil cooler pennyman1!! Thanks! I'm gonna flush it with some left over new 10w-30 I have
I am pretty sure that's the auto tranny cooler
not to quote myself, but no it is not the tranny cooler, the tranny cooler is still hooked up on the other side of the core supportQuote:
Originally Posted by thehive
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6a362c98.jpg
and the lines cut going to the transmission
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psb66ea741.jpg
all the lines go thru the fire wall to the passenger side of the engine bay, where the power steering pump and reservoir are located on the motor.
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30691447.jpg
i also looked into getting the factory oil filter housings that had the ports made into it for the factory oil cooler lines but since it's for the FWD family of motors it won't work on ours:shakehead: so looks like i'm stuck using a sandwich adapter after all
1990 air to liquid oil filter housing for the eclipse/talon/laser. Only difference once bolted up that I see is that instead of having the filter poke out to the side on our rwd application it faces it towards the engine mount. Clears everything as far as I could tell. Also bolts up.
get one from a starquest motor off of the starquest forum - it is the factory sandwich adaptor and an extended fitting to fit through the adaptor. it will give you the fittings for the cooler and a port for an oil pressure sensor. You can't get better than that - you could even run an bypass oil filter on the line to give better filtration to the oil for longer life.
Well my motor is a 94 4G64 making it a 7 bolt. I was looking hard at the EVO III oil housing for around $120 and it has the cooler hookups as well as the thermostatic oil relief valve. I'm not home to look at me trucks right now but correct my if I'm wrong, if I do go to a FWD oil housing won't that point the oil filter right into the alternator?
double post
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cb42bf1.jpg
This is the housing i'm going to get, thanks 4doorciv, the oil filter looks like it will clear everything just fine :))
as you can see it has all the sensor hook up's as well as the two giant holes for in and out of the oil cooler, but what i like the most is that little brass colored valve that mother Mitsubishi has built into this housing, the thermostatic pressure valve. meaning oil will only flow into the cooler once it's reached a certain temp and not all the time like a sandwich filter
and i learned most of it from this guy Jafromobile and his video's on youtube. this guys is a DSM GOD, take a min to watch thru his video's you will learn sooooo much!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X88t...L7uRiZmTjC17RQ
^ what he said. Jafro has extensive experience with Mitsubishi and DSM gear and his videos will give you a comprehensive breakdown on the how's and why's of fundamental engine construction, plus you'll learn a lot about mechanical failures and what to look for. His level of expertise is nothing short of inspiring...
missed the part about you having the 2.4 motor - that part is s much better than the sandwich adaptor for the 2.6 - now I want to see if it would work on the 2.6. I assume you were talking to someone else about the lip, as I have a front air dam from my 1991 dogkota that I beat the snot out of it and after 10 years managed to slightly tear it under neath. It is going on my Dad's 89 long bed once I replace the front bumper.
Yeah sorry about that it was someone that erased thier comments, how can I do that? Would be handy. I too have had a lot of these lips in the past, the one on my 03 WRX got scraped to hell all the time, And the one on my miata is taking a beating too. I agree im super excited about the oil filter housing, and more impressed at mitsubishi's engeneering is as amazing as it is and that all these parts swap back and forth. I set on loosing the banjo bolts and going to all -AN fittings and hoses back and forth thru the rad. support. I'll post pics of course when it's done!
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psccecf10a.jpg
finally got the fenders and doors swapped over from the part truck. the factory tinted window glass is well worth it and it will be even darker when real window tint is put on them, i'm going to have to wait till spring though to swap the windshields thou it's just to cold right now. i also have to take those goofy "sport" sport decals off them and ready for paint/coating.
Also made a deal with a fellow MM owner to swap my narrowblock 5-speed, trans plate, and 6-bolt flywheel for his Wideblock 5-speed, trans plate and 7-bolt flywheel so i can get my 4G64 swapped in (he wants to put a already built 4G63 turbo out a eclipse in his MM so it's a win win for us both)
out and ready for the trade! i will post pics of my new one after the trade!
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psda287ab1.jpg
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61812878.jpg
Dude your truck is naked! lol
Good job swapping parts with fellow members. We gotta stick together
i know right! i'm actually getting it ready for paint. sort of... i'm gonna try this monstaliner stuff all over it from the jeep community, the reviews says it's tuff as HELL. i plan on doing it in black.Quote:
Originally Posted by crvtec90
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps83252ca3.jpg
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5b64a258.jpg
Lol Thats the same Idea I had with my rocker Panels. I used Rhino Liner spray on. That shtuff is tough as hell.
:hammerdrill:
MMMMmmmmmm got that OEM Mother Mitsubishi box in the mail today.....
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psfbba8507.jpg
to bad it's not something more exciting, just a new drivers side bumper brace for the 2gen 2nd style OEM ABS bumper
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5876d005.jpg
apparently the previous owner of the parts truck that i'm swapping my front end over from got a little to close to something one time. it's kinda hard to tell from the pics but the rusted spots are where it's been twisted and pushed back. i believe the rest of the bar can be pulled and "massaged" back into line and bolted up.
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...pse25a5126.jpg
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2a2adf3.jpg
gonna try and brave the cold here soon and bolt it together so i can finally see this bumper and lip on my front end!!
Can't wait to see it bruh! :headbanger: