'89-'90 2.0 and 2.4 cross-breeding

now can the 2.4 be installed on a 2.0l to eliminate the jet valves?

I'm thinking it would be a lot easier to remove the jet valves from the 2.0 head...there are some issues regarding the fuel pump mounting on the 2.4 head, since it is fuel-injected. There is a kit you can buy to eliminate the jet valves. 1949panrider welded his shut http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27085 without having to remove the head. Doing it that way means a lot of time saved and no gasket kits to buy.

Below is a photo of my 2.4 head. Note there is no port for the 2.0 fuel pump. (center of head).
Attachment 8386

The reason I ask is that I have a dilemma on my hands. I have a 93 2.4 MM with a broken crankshaft bolt. I picked up a non running 88 MM 2 liter, seller has had the head decked,has a valve job etc. Its missing one of the jet valves and the rest of the jet valves need their o-rings replaced. Owner got tired of messing with it. Its either get eliminate the jet valve,pickup a spare or convert it to efi and grabbing the donor parts from the 93.

My 90 model truck had a 2.4 fuel injected engine that the block was no good. My buddy had an 86 with a 2.0 and bad carb. We bolted the 2.4 head with intake and all fuel injection on the 2.0 block. No problem except had to use the 2.0 trans.

Risingphx, whatever you decide to do, I hope you will update this thread with what you encounter. I was told the 2.4 head will bolt on to the 2.0 block and the EFI can be hooked up. I know from first-hand experience the head gaskets are the same.

I hope a couple more of the forum experts chime in before you make your decision so you can make an educated choice. My knowledge is still limited.

Crvtec90 just confirmed what we had all said, a 2.4 head and efi system will go onto a 2.0 block just fine.

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Originally Posted by LSR Mike

The difference between a 2.0 4G63, and a 2.4 4G64 is deck height, i.e. the cam gear is further away from the Crank. If you were to use a 2.0 cam on a 2.4 engine you would still need the longer belt of the 2.4. as fro the distributor, the FI unit has thr Crank angle sensor built into the base, you would be missing a very important signal needed for the ECU... Vacuumadvance is the least of your worries.

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For those who were attracted to this thread for information about the mechanical differences of the 2.0 and 2.4, DroppedMitsu wrote:

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The 2.0 head will bolt onto the 2.4 block but will also bump up the compression a bit, theres a guy on the facebook mighty max page running this setup. You could also take all the fuel injection components(and ecu/engine harness, etc) and convert the 2.0 to fuel injection. Transmissions cannot be swapped between the two as one is a narrow block and the other a wide block engine design .

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Pooling information for the obsticles ahead.

Many thanks to contributors.

I will deffinitely do so. To my surprise the 2.0 fired up after timing the balance shaft belt/timing belt.I did have to spray starting fluid,hold the gas down,after that it idles pretty smooth. I could not hear the motor over the exhaust leak though. Its got a rusted out reed valve, I'm guessing ill need to replace that before it passes emissions here. I'll peruse the rest of the threads for answers and then go from there.