Weber 32/36

Awesome info guys! I ended up ordering the 32/36 DFEV kit. I am waiting for it in the mail, but I will definitely take and post pictures of everything and keep people posted as to how this works out. Along with the carb, I am also replacing the fuel filters, performance spark plugs, spark plug wires, and I'm on the search for a distributor cap that has brass contacts. Haven't found one yet but please if someone knows where I can order one, let me know. And I will be finally removing the rear bumper and tailgate, and replacing it with a Bully net. I am eager to see if all this resolves my hesitation issue that I have been fighting. I have noticed it gets worse as the truck runs (particularly with freeway driving and high speeds). If this doesn't resolve it, I will be on to the fuel pump and considering (don't want to have to yet, but will if I have to) rebuilding the motor. Thanks for everybody's input, and you'll hear from me soon enough.

Here is a picture of the 32/36 Weber kit that I just picked up from www.webercarbsdirect.com


Attachment 1331

One trick I did when I changed over my carb was to take the stock carb throttle cable mount off of the old carb and tack weld it to the new carb linkage. The new carb wants you to cut the barrel off the end of the cable and use the clamp set up that comes with it. I looked at that and saw a better way. By adding it to the side of the linkage plate I was able to retain the stock cable and then it uses a ramp style pull for the cable. It looks like factory when done. I'll see if I can have Mopar_ja get a picture of it.
Here is the one I'm going to use on the Edelbrock I'm putting on the truck now. By using the stock ramps you can get better throttle control. It depends on how the ramp is made. This one will give better mid range control. The ramp flattens out there. This came off a GM. FI system.

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I'm ashamed to admit that I took my truck in to have the carb, fuel pump, and fuel filter replaced. The pump and filter were oem and the carb was the new Weber. However, this job that was quoted for 1.5 hours of labor, has now turned into a whole other beast. So after the mechanic put it all together, he attempted to turn over the engine and had no luck. After some troubleshooting, he discovered that the truck wasn't giving a spark. He thought maybe it was the ignition coil, but then put a "working one" (whatever that was suppose to mean) on and apparently that didn't resolve anything for us either. So can anybody give me some direction to give to this guy?

If it worked when you sent it to him? I'd lay money on a loose/unplugged connection. Techs NEVER unplug anything to make workspace...

Another thought is, he unhooked wires for room, and didn't hook them back up right. I know my 86 had about 6 wires going to the coil/ballast stock. Failing that? Check power from ignition, work your way to the dizzy and find where the power stops.

Camoit- I just used the cable connector that came in the kit, however I used a dremel to slot the post with the hole in it so I could slip my cable in without cuttin off the barrel thingy at the end of the cable. Tightens with the set screw to retain it. Works slick.

Gotcha, so they did some more looking around and found out it is a bad ignitor. So now they are just working on ordering a new one and installing it. Thanks for the feed back Acuta73.

I hope it is so, they're gonna charge you up the ass for a 5 minute job, though....

The ignitor for that Dizzy is more expensive than the whole goddam Dizzy on the Napa site!

Okay, I know its been a little while but I an still here just working and working on my truck. So here are the pics that Camoit was talking about. I will apologize now if they are not the right size.

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Attachment 1351

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The pictures are the correct size. It automatically resizes them into a thumbnail. Just click it. So did you get it running yet? Thanks for getting the pictures up. I hope it helps people to see one option that may be over looked when making the conversion. It took like 30 minutes to set it up that way and makes for a quick cable removal, no tools. OH by the way, the radiator you got from me was an over sized unit. I had an extra row of cores and larger tanks added to it.

So since this is a sticky .....lets get some pics of where vacuum lines go. Also if your running an electric pump is there a return line from carb?

When you install the Weber, 99% of your vacuum lines go away. Only thing you need to worry about is capping them off at the source. Only important connections on a Weber are fuel, choke, and throttle. That's it.

There is no return line off the Weber, you can get pressure regulators with a return line, though.

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Originally Posted by Acuta73

When you install the Weber, 99% of your vacuum lines go away. Only thing you need to worry about is capping them off at the source. Only important connections on a Weber are fuel, choke, and throttle. That's it.

There is no return line off the Weber, you can get pressure regulators with a return line, though.

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I know most the vacuum lines go away but there is a certain line for the distributor advance......also you can pull the computer out and get rid of most the wires.....I want to run an electric pump.....also has anyone come up with a manual fuel pump block off plate for the 2.0??

Got me on the advance, forgot about it. But that's just one line from the dizzy.

As for a block plate, if you have access to some basic hand tools, make one out of a piece of scrap aluminum. All I did.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Acuta73

Got me on the advance, forgot about it. But that's just one line from the dizzy.

As for a block plate, if you have access to some basic hand tools, make one out of a piece of scrap aluminum. All I did.

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Thanks man.......any idea where to get the aluminum?? Also what thickness did you use? Also did u keep the spacer on?

I just had some scrap sheet laying around, used the spacer and epoxy'd the sheet to it. Works, but not the greatest. Best would be to find a piece of ~1/4" and buy a couple shorter bolts. Can use a gasket or just some grey RTV for install.

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

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Alright thanks....

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

I just ordered the Carter 4070 Fuel pump off ebay for $60.00 delivered for free. The reviews and recommendations were pretty good. It should arrive soon. This was my preference only though from researching through forums and other sources. You will probably get a few other types that folks use also.

Carter#180-P4070
Electric Fuel Pump
Pump with 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet
4-6 psi Output
No Regulator Required
72 gph Free Flow
Attachment 5166

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Originally Posted by TheProspector

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

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I'd also be interested in this too. Where did you order your weber from?

I recently purchased a weber from carbs.us

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use?

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Originally Posted by derek6790

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use?

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you could go no electric choke and run manual that's what i'm doing.

I tried a 'yard' weber on my '86 auto 2.6 and have never adapted my kick-down T.V. linkage. (just up and down shifted manually)
ALWAYS had an issue of starting and running for about 15sec and die.. then would turn over, and over and after about 2min finally fires and finally run. Now, I did get some larger idle jets since it's a 2.6 and the off-idle acceleration seemed to help lots, but NO tire burner by ANY means..
This is using the stock head mounted pump since i pulled the OUT line and man, it sprayed about 5'! So, it stayed. Stock, truck intake too.

(stay with me here..) Picked up a '85 civic hatchback and pulled the miles of vacuum lines off with stock carb and used the trucks' 32/36 carb.
and dangit!! same thing. Even with the electric idle valve hooked up.

GOT on Ebay and picked up a couple more 32's but that took me a couple of weeks. (for the civic and the truck)
In the meantime, I got some scrap aluminum and was digging through my crap and found a ol Rochester dual jet carb (2bbl) that I rebuilt a couple years ago, found an old Conquest 2.6 intake, cut it down, got rid of the EGR and water heating portions and popped it on.
Got it running but can't seem to upload it to here like you kids are doing. Imageshack has all my other stuff held in ransom unless I upgrade, then I can
post a pic or vid.
BUT MAN!! talk about throttle response! MPG will probably drop since those two jets/squirters squirt ANY TIME you move that throttle.
AND, the stock auto T.V. linkage is only about 1.5" away.. NOTHING that a little welding can't take care of though. Another thing is that the kick-down
WILL be hooked up this time.

While I wait for the rebuild kits and carb cleaner to get in all those nooks and cranny's I'll mess with this Rochester.
Pennyman, Camoit.. If I can send you some pics/vids of the rochester running for you guys to post would help.

ANOTHER project I'm kinda messing with is to cut the stock carb intake where the ports come together in a "Y" and have two Cycle carb side drafts or two 34ICT's from a Bug application. (Even USED, they're expensive little buggers for whatcha get)

IS THIS THREAD JACKING?? Not really. I'll still get the stock 2.6 auto intake going with the 32/36 after I rebuild it and swap it out to see the difference between the Weber and Rochester.
NOW, you gotta understand that the difference between fuel demands between a 2.0 and a 2.6 is HUGE.. Just sayin

Just a different look at 'carburetion'. Not everyone here can drop about 300-450.00 for weber/adapter/fuel pump. i picked up the Rochester
for under 25.00, rebuild kit was about 20, adapter was pretty much free, just time (and a tube of liquid metal for any imperfections. NOT that i had any..)

OH, For the guys that have an AUTO truck, the sources state to use the STOCK carb linkage/cable pull eccentric for accelerator AND kick-down linkage.
Now, looking at it I thought "these guys are NUTS" and it's nowhere near working the TV cable/linkage..
BUT, that's what "THEY" recommend.
I found this out by contacting the suppliers that show an AUTO application but the exploded view doesn't show ANY kickdown adaptation(s) and
put them on the spot by asking them, how the heck one connects it..?

Here is some good reading also. FOCUS here.. I know it's British car stuff but good info nonetheless.
and click and search the links too and if the links have links..
Some Weber places are really tight lipped on what size jets/tubes and such are in what carb.. BUT I can't seem to find it on my laptop.

In addition to carb work, PLEASE check your timing and vacuum advance FIRST!! Then start looking at the carb stuff.
There are symptoms that seem like a carb issue but really are advance/or timing/or vacuum leaks..

OK, Ok.. I'll shut up and get to work.

Errol

Sounds great that you got the rochester carb to work, but not everyone here has the time or talent to make that conversion. There are also holley weber 5200s out there from 80s k cars that can be used and are similar to the webers, as they were a weber licensed design, but are finicky due to the emissions parts on them. The rochester sounds like it would be like a dges 38 in operation. I have a set of kawasaki sidedraft fuel injection throttle bodies with injectors and spare intakes that I am going to see if I can fab up for one of my trucks soon - this is a big mod for nissan 240sx and other 4 cyl cars.