83 Mighty Max G63B - looking for an engine

I was given this truck after someone had dropped a bolt down the intake, and made its way into one of the cylinders. it mashed up the piston top and bead the head side up so much so that the top of the piston is seized against the block and i cant turn it by hand.

In short aside from tearing the whole thing down and rebuilding it, I need a new engine and head.

i found some resources that say there are engines throughout the years that will physically fit and bolt into the transmission I have.

I want to keep the carb and distributor for ease of use ideally, mostly because I dont want to have to retrofit an ECU. I am not looking to build something with a bunch of power, or some wild machine. I just want something simple and reliable.

Is there anyone who can direct me towards any more resources that I haven't found yet, or something with a carb and distributor that I can use for replacing this engine.

Thanks
Dustin

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...e+and+markings
http://projectzerog.com/transmissions.shtml
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...u-need-to-know
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...4G64+6G72+4D55

all of this plus some reandom googling around is what i have found

Look at Mitsubishis using single cam 4G63 series engines (earlier Galant 2.0?) All of the 4G6X blocks and heads are interchangeable so if you get stuck, you can use a twin cam block and bottom end and mate it to a new/reco'ed SOHC head. Use a '6 bolt' block (1G Mitsu/DSM) as this will save you headaches with stuff like sumps etc as they are the same design as the 2.0 G63B truck engine. There are added bonuses with using these engines too like a bigger capacity oil pump, oil squirters for the cylinder bores and provisions for a oil cooler.

*edit note - using a short block 4G63 will require swapping the crank pulley and water pump for RWD. The water pump on a FWD redirects the radiator hose from the 'back' of the block via an external pipe, the water pump housing is low profile and the belts are ribbed. You could mod the water pump with a freeze plug and some fudging to run the ribbed belt but you'll need the matching alternator and have to set up an electric thermo fan (another worthwhile mod). This route will also open up the option of adding...A/C!

thank you for the suggestions.
One of the things that gave cause for concern is that some of the resources say there are Wide and Narrow blocks and the bell housing will cause certain ones to not fit.
I just want to make sure that I done go looking in the wrong places, granted i could just measure them, but I like to find a good starting point and if I know whether or not something will fit thenI can be sure to avoid what will not.
are the FWD blocks all "narrow"blocks?
I will reuse the head I have if it can be reused. Some of the resources I found made not of some difference between the water routing of the RWD vs. FWD
If i can use any old fwd block then that shouldnt be too difficult, there seem to plenty dsm's all over the place when i hit the junk yards

There is a difference with coolant circulation with FWD 4G63's. The FWD engine hooks up the heater hoses differently but the best way to dodge that issue is salvaging the water pump and external galleries from your engine. If the pump is sketchy then you'd need to get another new pump anyway. All FWD 4G6X blocks are indeed narrow. Also keep in mind the earlier Hyundais and Kias used 1G 4G63 engines as well. Lots of options.

I knew this would happen... I just gave a way a bottom end of a 2.0 last week to some guy to use as scrap metal because no one was taking an interest anywhere. Been sitting on it for nearly a year and finally was tired of having it sit around so I gave it to him. I'd have given it to you had I known in time.

i appreciate that anyway.I am just going to look for a fwd car that happens to have the bosses drilled and tapped for motor mounts. as for cooling and oiling is concerned I will just collect what ever i might need as i need it.
Are there any other considerations that should be considered for making this all work right?
I think between the resources I have found and some good old fashioned engineering as needed I should be able to get something to work.
Would one of the bigger short blocks work as well? From what i understand I should be able to use a 2.4l block with this head as well right?

All 6 bolt 1G engines have the castings on the block pre-drilled for front and RWD applications. They made a custom central mount that bolted to the front face of the block in the middle of the timing belt path. I think 7 bolt can be done as long as the long block has the intake and exhaust manifolds set up the same as the original RWD engine. This is a good thread to learn the basic stuff - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...u-need-to-know

From what I understand, using the head off the engine that I have will allow my to keep my manifolds, distributor, and most of my timing parts. Only issue i see otherwise is making sure what ever I find is:
1)a narrow block
2)has bosses for bolting on two motor mounts
3)has a flywheel and clutch assembly that will work with my transmission
I would really like to find a 2.4l short block but i cant seem to find a lot of information about using the short block in a rwd application.
Once I find a solution I will be sure to let everyone know what I came up with

thanks
Dustin

The 2.4 was used in the later Mighty Max trucks. They are however classed as a 'wide block' so it won't mate up to your transmission. But I am not sure about the Kia and Hyundai 2.4 engines. DSM guys are using the twin cam heads off these engines as replacements for their DSM/Evo heads.

I found a motor, it came out of an 88. After i finally got out to where the truck is, and the motor was taken too. I didnt get a change to really inspect it, but it definitely has a flexplate on it and I am pretty sure that means it is a wide block. So it wont work, but if everything on the bottom end measures up within factory tolerances, could i just take all the bottom end parts from the good engine and put them in the old block freshened up. as long as the crank shaft and block journals are in good shape i should be able to replace a bunch of bearings, rings, and gaskets and be good to go right?
I dont have a lot of money, and i still need a couple parts to finish this. What are any of you all's opinions?

Dustin

As long as the cranks are both 6 bolt everything is interchangeable. Bear in mind to that all FWD G63B engines are narrow block as well. Pull everything apart and do a visual check. It's not definitive but at least you'll see if there's been damage to the journals and bearings.

I have been thinking, that maybe building or having an adapter plate built that will mount the wide block to the narrow block transmissionmight be more cost effective than rebuilding the damaged motor. I am not completely sold on this idea, just curious about any ideas and some input

Dustin

I don't think that will work. Got a feeling you'll need to change flywheels,clutches and pressure plates and starter motors to make it work.

i thought of that too. the old motor and new motor both have the dust cover, and as long as i get those lined up over each other i can make sure i have all of the bolt holes that I would need. I dont have the starter for the "new" motor, and it came with a flywheel, so I would have to replace correct outboard position that with the flywheel I have. I would need a spacer for the flywheel that is as thick as the adapter plate. which should re-align the flywheel the right place in reference to the input shaft and clutch assembly.

Dustin