need some advise on weber 32/36 DFEV Anti diesel solenoid

ok here goes :
1988 dodge ram 50 sport 2.6l with a weber 32/36 DFEV
*note that it is a (dfev)*
i have read that the fuel shut off solenoid aka ( Anti diesel solenoid ) for the other styles of carbs such as the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV will not work on the (dfev)
that it has to be strictly for the (dfev)
now taking that in to considerations that the Anti diesel solenoid cost around US $34.00 plus shipping i don't want to buy something get it here and low and behold it doesn't fit or work.
the second part of advise i need is once i get the correct Anti diesel solenoid i need to know where to install said product.
if possible pics would be nice a video even better just keep in mind that it is a (dfev) and that i,m just a shade tree kind of person i learn by doing .

First thing I would check if there is a provision to install the fuel cut solenoid on your carb. If there's no provision it'll mean you'll be drilling and tapping it out. I've tapped threads into carbs before but not for a control device like a solenoid.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

First thing I would check if there is a provision to install the fuel cut solenoid on your carb. If there's no provision it'll mean you'll be drilling and tapping it out. I've tapped threads into carbs before but not for a control device like a solenoid.

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yes sir that's what i,m getting @ i want to make sure that the dfev can even handle something like that.
i need feed back from anyone that has been here done that.

check this out i emailed redline to get advise on this issue and this is what they told me:
On 11/30/2016 3:47 AM,
where can i get a Anti diesel solenoid for my weber 32/36------> DFEV<--------------
i was told that the solenoid needs to be{ for the dfev }
not the other carbs that they are not interchangeable.
if possible please provide a link on where to buy thanks

From the office of ,
Bud Pauge
I would disagree with your statments in this request
the solenoid is a band aid for other tuning issues.
we have not supplied or offered this solenoid for 25 years
at one time we supplied a custom application unit
the unit for the dgev or dgv carburetors do not fit or work on the dfev unit
so with that I would ask what is the issue and mostly what is the vehicle application and other function issues like
Poor fuel economy
stalling or hard starting
surging or flooding
a hesitation.
for guidance
I would need to know your current best idle tuning values for the idle speed screw settings , the number of turns in warm to gain your idle rpm
what is the number of turns on the screw
what is the idle rpm
on the idle mixture screw is it sensitive and how many turns out from seated is the screw to find the best smoothest sweet spot for idle
what is your timing and if you use a vacume advance distributor what is the timing at idle with vacume connected and with vacume disconnected if they are not the same confirm the difference in idle rpm.
from this point any additional input would help
where are you located
what is the engine size and application
what is your fuel presure
do you know the full calibration in your carburetor
Main air jet Primary secondary
Main jet Primary secondary
idle jets Primary and secondary
pump jet
important what is your float level
please discrib your issue
do you have actual run on , or do you have flooding with float bowl going empty over night.
please discrib what you can about our issue so we can offer better guidance than you have currently recived.
If you own a true weber there is not avalable a solinoid.
there were Weber licenced copies by holley and Motorcraft these typically are thought to be Webers and are not
typically we can offer general guidance on them but we typically discrib a tuning variation that allows you to tune and disable the solinoid.
On many vehicle application these solinoids are an issue a bigger problem than the situation they solve.
Properly tuned the Weber will not need them.
Please confirm your location and a possible phone contact for future more direct contact if possible
Bud Pauge
Redline

Well that is one loooong email. Looks like you've got some garage time ahead of you james...

ya right if you believe a quarter of the crap he is selling lol

Out of curiosity what are you using for a fuel pump? The factory pump puts out too much pressure for the Weber and will over power the float creating a rich mixture that could result in dieseling when you shut the ignition off. If you're using the factory stock mechanical pump that the Mikuni used you need a fuel pressure regulator that will reduce your fuel pressure down to 3 psi. The pump runs at 8 psi I believe. That being said,you also need to connect the fuel return from the pump to the fuel return line to the fuel tank or the pump will not last long. I have the same Weber on my '88 and have no dieseling issues.

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Originally Posted by Andy 2

Out of curiosity what are you using for a fuel pump? The factory pump puts out too much pressure for the Weber and will over power the float creating a rich mixture that could result in dieseling when you shut the ignition off. If you're using the factory stock mechanical pump that the Mikuni used you need a fuel pressure regulator that will reduce your fuel pressure down to 3 psi. The pump runs at 8 psi I believe. That being said,you also need to connect the fuel return from the pump to the fuel return line to the fuel tank or the pump will not last long. I have the same Weber on my '88 and have no dieseling issues.

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factory pump with a fuel pressure regulatorAttachment 18034 the problem with that is i put a gauge on the line going to the carb and could not get a reading @ all so i thought maybe the the gauge was bad so i bought another one regulator with gauge Attachment 18035could not get a reading with that one either. now i hooked theses in the line that goes to the carb (after the pump before the carb) so it should have read something right? but i get nothing no reading on either gauge so i took them out and am now just running the fuel pressure regulatorAttachment 18034

i,ll take some pics tomorrow and show what i got going on.
maybe someone can see what is wrong if anything and explain what to do.

Dude! I just ran through the exact same situation with my 88 G63B.

I bought that exact same holley regulator and a harbor freight 0-10 psi gauge. Couldn't get a reading, was frustrated, truck ran like garbage, already tried re-jetting. Finally decided to listen to everyone's advice on here and put an electric pump on my truck. Turns out I wasn't getting a reading because my mechanical pump was putting out 0.5 psi at best. I have a shortbed regular cab 2wd which makes mounting a fuel pump near the tank somewhat difficult, it's real tight back there.

I used an Airtex E8016S. I know Airtex doesn't have the best rep but I had it laying around from a different build. It was something like $25 from rockauto, I looked it up for a first gen RX-7 that uses an inline pump, it puts out about 4-5 psi. Best of all, it's tiny and has a pre-filter threaded right into it. Don't forget to hook up a relay. Echlin part no. AR272 (standard five-pin relay, fifth/middle pin goes unused) works perfect.

Truck runs much better now at idle and on the primary jet. Could hardly get into the secondary range (>3000) before. I really think the mechanical pumps are garbage for anything but the stock carb (which also happens to be garbage lol).

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Originally Posted by jamesw

factory pump with a fuel pressure regulatorAttachment 18034 the problem with that is i put a gauge on the line going to the carb and could not get a reading @ all so i thought maybe the the gauge was bad so i bought another one regulator with gauge Attachment 18035could not get a reading with that one either. now i hooked theses in the line that goes to the carb (after the pump before the carb) so it should have read something right? but i get nothing no reading on either gauge so i took them out and am now just running the fuel pressure regulatorAttachment 18034

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The regulator you show comes preset at 3psi. That is very low and you'd have to have a very good (expensive) gauge to get a good reading on that low a pressure. 3psi is also the correct pressure you want for a Weber carb.

It could be you don't have a fuel delivery problem. Is the timing is a bit too far advanced or the idle speed a bit too high? I think the idle speed numbers on the under hood labels are a bit too high for the Weber carb. Also, dirty combustion chambers can cause dieseling. You could try filling it up with premium gas and put some fuel system cleaner in it. Take it for a good fast run on the interstate for an hour and clean out the combustion chambers. Before you shut it down check your idle speed and if necessary adjust it down to about 650 rpm for manual tranny. 750 for automatic.

+1 on that. I recently had a problem with a truck I picked up as a donor vehicle. Terrible flat spot all through low rpm. Idle and throttle stop were set incorrectly and the distributor advance was used to compensate. Didn't help that there was an inch of slack in the throttle cable either... a few adjustments and 95% of the throttle fault was ironed out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy 2

It could be you don't have a fuel delivery problem. Is the timing is a bit too far advanced or the idle speed a bit too high? I think the idle speed numbers on the under hood labels are a bit too high for the Weber carb. Also, dirty combustion chambers can cause dieseling. You could try filling it up with premium gas and put some fuel system cleaner in it. Take it for a good fast run on the interstate for an hour and clean out the combustion chambers. Before you shut it down check your idle speed and if necessary adjust it down to about 650 rpm for manual tranny. 750 for automatic.

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the idle speed is around 950 rpm parked and around 800 rpm in gear while brake is pushed.
i also had the ideal of the good gas filled up with non ethanol pour some sea foam in ran it out got it out on the interstate @ around 70-75 mph for about 10 miles *up/down hills* parked still the same problem all thru the tank of gas no change. the local mechanic shop wants $400 to install a electric fuel pump . i thought that was a bit high-----ok i really thought that was way high lol (btw it,s auto trans)

ok here is the video of my truck this morning sorry about the end battery died i guess because of the cold lol
https://youtu.be/smODFbgFR8E

Everything looks ok. I think your problem is the curb idle speed is too high. Try setting it down to 750 rpm while in park and if that doesn't solve your problem I would check the timing and make sure it's not too far advanced . Also might want to bring the fast idle up a bit. Mine tops out at about 2500 rpm about 15 seconds after a cold start then when I tap the accelerator it drops to 1500 rpm. When its warm the curb idle is 750 rpm. I don't think the Webers like the really cold weather. On really cold days, without some warm air passing through the venturi, moisture in the air freezes and you get a bit of frost build up on it until the throttle body warms up.

Something else - ambient heat in the engine bay. The Weber will be pulling a lot of hot air. Seems these trucks suffer from heat soak and some added ventilation and air flow makes a difference. I agree that your warm idle speed is a little on the high side too. Dialling it back to at least 850 rpm should have some impact on the run on issue.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Something else - ambient heat in the engine bay. The Weber will be pulling a lot of hot air. Seems these trucks suffer from heat soak and some added ventilation and air flow makes a difference. I agree that your warm idle speed is a little on the high side too. Dialling it back to at least 850 rpm should have some impact on the run on issue.

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yeppers i thought of that too geezer thats why this summer i bought a hood scoop and installed it.
it did seem to help some what but then the old demon came back.
i did find a new mechanic today that isn't going to charge me an arm and a leg to check it all out next friday he said after listening to it and putting a timing light on it and getting the timing back right on the money he said that he didn't think that it was a matter of too much fuel going to the carb that it had to be something else.
he is going to do a fuel pressure check and see what's what.

I would never have thought to install the fuel pump upside down like that. What I did was connect the carb line to it with the other end loose and then put the bolts into it. I had to work at getting the fuel in and return lines connected. I used a drill with a 6" screw driver to tighten the clamps. Its still a bugger to get it positioned just right. Wish I saw something that jumped out at me. I have found that if I don't rev it before I shut it off I am less likely to get dieseling. Seems like that only happens in the warm weather or if it is hot. I suspect my skills at carb rebuilding are wanting and that is why I have dieseling issues.

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

I would never have thought to install the fuel pump upside down like that. What I did was connect the carb line to it with the other end loose and then put the bolts into it. I had to work at getting the fuel in and return lines connected. I used a drill with a 6" screw driver to tighten the clamps. Its still a bugger to get it positioned just right. Wish I saw something that jumped out at me. I have found that if I don't rev it before I shut it off I am less likely to get dieseling. Seems like that only happens in the warm weather or if it is hot. I suspect my skills at carb rebuilding are wanting and that is why I have dieseling issues.

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my skills @ carb work are none lol and i still have dieseling issues hopefully it's about to go away somewhat i hope

well here's an update:
took little truck down to the new mechanic today
he put gauges on the fuel lines and found out that the pressure coming from the manual fuel pump is 5 pounds
and after the regulator it,s 4 pounds going into the carb
*he also sprayed carb cleaner around the bottom of carb and found a vacuum leak*
so he tried to adjust the regulator down to 3 pounds and no go
it just would not go down any more.
so i had another regulator with a built in gauge he put that one in line and got it to go down to 3 pounds .
it ran fine sitting there in idle.
but after going down the road the truck died like it ran out of fuel so i hooked the fuel lines back up to the old regulator and it ran still had run-on after shutting the engine off .
taking it down Wednesday and he is going to put new caskets on it and make sure there isn't a vacuum leak and then go from there.
a lot of my problems may have been the vacuum leak it just never dawned on me that it would be leaking duhhhhhh .
on the bright side he is doing all of this for $40 bucks the other guy i had wanted $300 just to hook gauges up. so needless to say i now have a new mechanic.
hope he works out.

Hope the new mechanic works out too. The joys of motoring...:rolleyes:

update: got my little truck back today so far so good :) my new mechanic give the carb a going over put new gaskets adjusted all settings set the timing to specs. all for the low price of $40 drove it around long enough that if it was going to run-on it would have and so far it stops and starts just like it's supposed to. i,ll give it a few more days and see whats/ what i,m keeping my fingers crossed. next little project is to get his to fix the kill switch on the transmission. if you seen my vid up there then you know what i,m talking about .