evo swap?

i was looking online at some options of ordering a 4g63t and found that i can get a super low mile jdm direct eclipse motor but can get an EvoVIII motor 4g63t 6-bolt for only a few hundred more, eclipse one has 210hp and evo has 280. and instead of toyota hub swap i think it'd be awesome to swap to evo hubs and actually get evo wheels and brakes and seats and basically do everything Evo swap that i can find really. weighed my truck at the scrap yard my daughters mom works at and with me and my daughter in the truck it weights 2880lbs. so so it doesn't weight much more than a 'clipse or evo at that so im thinkin if gonna do the swap save up and wait and throw the extra cash at making an actual "Mitsubishi Mighty Evo" or "Mitsubishi Evo MaxVIII"

would the 1990-91 'clipse harness work or would this be a whole 'nother ball park of motor swapping and too much converting compared to the 'clipse version of the swap.

this is mainly to the guys that hav already done the dual cam swap and would know the pros/cons of paying a little extra to get alot more. slightly built could easily tune that version to be 350hp+ in our little trucks. basically be a tuner truck after that swap?

I don't believe they have provisions for motor mounts on both sides of the blocks like the dsm 4g63t does just one, that is one problem. Second problem is I believe the bellhousing pattern is different than the trucks 2.0 and dsm 4g63t so would have to figure out a tranny to run, not sure if Bill Hincher off the projectzerog.com forums has made an adapter plate for the Evo motors yet or not. It wouldn't be hard at all to bump the dsm 4g63t hp up to the hp of the stock evo 4g63t. Only thing that might make it worth it would be to swap in the evo 4g63t that has MIVEC or the new EVO X 4b11t motor.

theres no way to get the DSM 4g63t to have MIVEC? like its easy to give an LS honda VTEC im guessing its not as simple with MIVEC? and if i got some rod welded to my shifter could the truck shifter be changed to a short throw shifter? cause i feel like i throw a foot everythimg i shift right now.

There has been cases where mivec was added to the 6 bolt head. Complete custom work, where the honda guys swap the head, and buy the conversion kit (golden eagle is popular).

If you want mivec with dohc turbo, evo swap the head, and the intake and exhaust will be flipped.

The throw is kind of long for the oem shifter, but if I were to do a custom shifter, I would chop. An inch or two, possible add a 15° or 25° bend. Shorter height reduces a little bit of throw, and sits more comfortable depending on what type of seats you are using, and the position you sit.

Mivec hasn't been put on a dsm 4g63t dohc head that I have seen yet, don't know if it can be as I haven't really looked into it. I have seen an Evo 8 head on a dsm 4g63t block and it is running and working perfectly, but that is the generation before Mivec. But I do believe the guy was intending to do a Mivec head on dsm 4g63t block but don't know if he has tried yet.

As for a short throw shifter what you do is cut the shifter down a little bit if you want, not much, than you have to add a spacer/block between the tranny and the shifter assembly and also lengthen the lower pivot point(same amount as spacer added) of the shifter. This is what actually reduces the throw and makes it a short throw, not just cutting the shifter length down.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyli...der-4g63s.html

Very nice find, I had not seen that thread before.

I had a friend that had an entire Mivec 8 motor, among other Lancer EVO stuff in a storage center that his roommate just walked away from. I still have the $1200 Lancer Evo Seibon single piece carbon fiber roof panel from it that I can't get rid of.
Attachment 9024
http://seiboncarbon.com/store/produc...l#!prettyPhoto

Anyway, I almost got the entire Mivec engine for 300 bucks. There was some rust on the head from sitting in the storage, but I should of
snagged that. The Lancer carbon roof panel is just sitting in garage rafters collecting dust. I thought about cutting it into console parts for the truck and MR2. Whatever was left, make gas tank panel doors and sell them. The guy had full set of KYB coil overs and header, clutch. Wish had cash for it then.

Stedebani made a short throw shifter for the starquests that had a shifter and an aluminum spacer that went on top of the tranny mount to allow for the longer shifter throw under the mount - I have one on Geronimo and it really makes a difference. They are out of production, although someone on the starquest forum was going to reproduce them. Only drawback with my shifter is it is a straight shaft shifter, I need to put the 15 degree bend in it so I can spin the Zaxxon handle to the proper orientation - as it is, if I put it the right way, I punch the dash in 1st, 3rd, and 5th.

as far as the short shifter idea, i was thinking lengthening the lower point so that below the pivot point was longer thus shortening the actual throw needed to allow the linkage to shift. just like in any tuner but weld on extra to our shifters to imitate the same concept. once i get into the dsm swap this will almost be a must IMO for full enjoyment of the swap. i would like to do a full tuner build eventually with my truck. id love to get the body kit the guy is selling on here so i can more so pronounce the truck to be seen as a tuner with turbo than a mini truck or straight truck in general. another reason why i'd rather do a hub/lug conversion to fit evo wheels and brakes to make it as tuner as possible. think it'd be unique

Sounds sick. I say go for it.

I like the throw on most oem cars, just perfer the height to be shorter. Had the height shortened on a few of my cars, and my friends sentra. My coworker did all of em. Did a 45° cut around both sides of the cut section to make them resemble a pencil, made sure good contact with the welds and had good penetration, built it up, and grinded smooth. Not a fan of grinding gears when you bang through the gears.

My truck got rust holes in the bed, parts of the cab, and the right door. Right now on oem wheels and tires (14s with proper oem sized tires) and more of a sleeper truck. No one suspects until they hear the spool or Bov.

The Evo IV-IX blocks are FWD style blocks reverse oriented to the DSM. As a result, there is an axle in the same spot as one of the bolts for the bell housing. There is no trans that will bolt right up without either leaving bolts out, or using an adapter. You may also run into bellhousing issues because the flywheel is very large in the Evo blocks (not so much on a narrow 2.0 truck). They are also 7 bolt blocks - not 6.

Mounts holes are almost exactly the same between every 4G6X engine. My G64 8V has the same bolt holes as my G64 DOHC. Either way you slice it, you will still have to build custom mounts or smash your firewall in to fit the engine in just like the DSM.

If you read my build thread, you will find just about all the info you want on these engines and blocks. The block I am using is a 4G64 from a Montero Sport with a Sonata head. The Sonata and Evo heads are almost identical. The only significant difference is the combustion chamber size (Sonata is larger because of 2.4 vs. 2.0 Evo). You can use either a Sonata head with all the Evo parts/upgrades (since all the Evo bits are direct fit - valves, springs, cams, etc.), or just stick an Evo IV-VIII head on it. Adding MIVEC to a 4G6X is possible with a feed kit or machine work. People have done it 100 times over. You will need a MIVEC head though.

As stated earlier - the IM and EM are on the opposite side. The Evo turbos do not reverse mount, so it will face the firewall. It also wont fit on a RWD oriented block because the starter is in the way. The Evo starters are more toward the bottom of the engine, not the side. A custom manifold and DP will have to be built (no big deal to any competent fabricator). There is also no intake manifold that will bolt up allowing the TB to face the front. You can "DSM" it and weld a TB plate to the other side of a Sonata/Optima manifold or Evo manifold. The only problem is the Sonata/Optima manifold is built for economy mode (not performance), so they flow like shit. The Evo manifolds taper down and the runners shift to make them equal. If you add a TB to the other side, you will end up with performance issues in some form or another. It would be best to have a custom SMIM made to fit your build.

Cooling lies and thermostat housings are also issues (like the DSM in a MM). I only know of a couple solutions. The ultimate solution is using the Montero Sport T-stat housing that sits on the side of the block (not the back of the head), and adding a upper radiator hose pipe to the head. See my build thread - you will see exactly what I mean.

Also in my build thread is how to make a short shifter. Cutting down a shifter handle only makes it shorter. Short shifters actually change the geometry to reduce the throw. Technically speaking, chipping off a few inches will reduce the throw travel, but nothing else. The range stays the same, the slop remains, and all it remains is a cut shifter.... doesn't really make a short shifter.

So at the end of the day, you may ask if all of this is possible.... yup. How much you want to spend is the ultimate question. I build custom cars and parts for a living, so it's not a big deal for me to take on a job like this. If you are not able to do the same, you may go broke paying someone to build it.

The evo and eclipse are north of 3000 lbs. the truck is lighter, even the st gen montero is lighter than those two cars.

That should have said "1st gen montero".

so basically just stick with the standard dsm swap or do the 4g64/sonata head swap to make it an easier swap than doin all the evo wannabe stuff eh? from what ive read up on the 2.0dsm is 210hp, the evo 2.0 is 280, so how much will the 4g64/sonata combo round out to be? and if i just went to a yard and got a dsm 1gen turbo motor and harness/computer and put it in the truck what all could be done easily to gain more power as efficient as possible and make it clean and sturdy as a daily driver cause im still plannin to drive my truck everyday like i do now. but id love to have tons more power and boost and eat hondas all day in my little truck >:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Merrill

Also in my build thread is how to make a short shifter. Cutting down a shifter handle only makes it shorter. Short shifters actually change the geometry to reduce the throw. Technically speaking, chipping off a few inches will reduce the throw travel, but nothing else. The range stays the same, the slop remains, and all it remains is a cut shifter.... doesn't really make a short shifter.

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yeah im not interested in shortening my shifter itself, im fine with its height i want to i suppose add length to the bottom end of it so itll actually have a shorter "throw" and id love to reduce all the slop in the stock shifter, hell id be happy with just reducing slop and keeping the granny gear throw lol reducing the slop will almost shorten the shifting cause there is easy a few inches of slop it feels like on all angles of these things, i want it to be tighter and have the feel of the gear box having the gears in closer proximity of one another, like my friends civic with short shifter have a nice close ratio of throw distance and you really dont have to move the shifter much at all for it to be in another gear and it doesnt slap al around like my truck does. could you point me in the direction of building somethin along the lines of this? i have friends who weld and are all down to help me do this truck up so itd be sweet to go ahead and get a "short shifter" in my truck asap just to make it funner to drive just like it is(feels like a go-cart everytime i drive it and i love it) just wish shed spin atleast 1st gear on dry pavement, but to be boosted and barking 3rd oh yeah!

As stated - it's in my thread..... pictures and all... only direction I can think to point you in is my thread. All you gotta do is look at it :lol:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26712

Shifter slop is usually solved by replacing the plastic bushing that snaps on to the ball at the end of the shifter.