Wheel hub removal tool

[xboxrox]

NEW OEM MITSUBISHI FRONT HUB ASSY https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb290822

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To remove the (4X4) front wheel hub a special tool (MB990954 Lock Nut Tool) is needed but is discontinued...

Supposedly a 3/4 ton GM truck tool will work by grinding off four of the six pins... I don't know if any of this is true or if the O'Reilly's part (link below) is for the correct year GM truck...

Has anyone removed their brake rotor or wheel hub using this O'Reilly's tool..? TIA

O'Reilly's sells these https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/performance-tool/performance-tool-spindle-socket/pfm0/w1270/v/a/3430/automotive-truck-2000-chevrolet-k2500-pickup-4wd?q=wheel+hub+removal+tool&pos=12


(https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb290822)

[FMS88]

Years ago I used a similar or identical tool. It was intended for early 80s Ford hubs which the O'Reilly description includes. After removing four of the six tabs, it worked adequately. The tabs aren't very long and being square pegs placed in round holes, the tool often slipped off the lock washer, especially when torqueing the nut to seat new bearings. You just have to support and push in on the tool to keep it seated. If the centers of opposing tabs are 60mm apart, the O'Reilly tool should work.

[xboxrox]

Thanks for that FMS88

The reason to inspect hub bearings & ball joints is coz the passenger front tire has excessive positive camber & tire is worn badly on outer half 《¿》

Would you happen to know if new hubs include everything except grease ? Are grease seals installed in new hub purchase..?

[FMS88]

The reason to inspect hub bearings & ball joints is coz the passenger front tire has excessive positive camber & tire is worn badly on outer half 《¿》 Would you happen to know if new hubs include everything except grease ? Are grease seals installed in new hub purchase..?

Given the miles on your truck and how you use it, it seems extremely unlikely you need to replace the hub. If you want to replace it, I doubt it comes with bearings and seal since they are replaceable and available individually. The bearings are easy to check by raising the wheel and shaking it at top and bottom, and side to side to see if you feel any wobble or play. There should be little if any play. Also rotate the wheel. It should feel smooth and quite.

With that kind of tire wear, I suspect it's an alignment issue. Bearings bad enough to cause abnormal tire wear would be noisy and unsafe. Have an alignment shop check the ball joints, tie rods and bushings. They could also give you their opinion of the bearings and what they think is causing the abnormal tire wear.

If you do want to check, repack or replace the bearings, it's not difficult. Remove the hub with rotor, the inner seal, both inner bearing races, and the old grease. If replacing bearings, drive out the outer races with a large screw driver and install new races with a brass drift. Pack the bearings with grease and install a new inner seal. The guys at the Five-O shop can help. They've probably done this many times. Both bearings are the same (P/N MB092749) and there's only one inner seal (P/N is either MB297514 or MB526395 if the truck manufacture date is before or after 8/86).

[xboxrox]

FMS88 Thank Goodness for your interest & support :thumbup: it really helps..!

I will ask Five-O-Motors staff if they have the tools to check or replace the bearings ~ I don't feel comfortable with the bearings, races and seals search results at O'Reilly's & NAPA websites ~ have yet to check RockAuto...

I already have OEM Mitsubishi lower ball joints on hand AND should just change them (drivers side lower ball joint will not take grease no matter which zerk fitting is used...)

I need to read the FSM to see if lower ball joints can be replaced (without) having to remove the hubs etc... Another question for Five-O-Motors...

I (think) the front wheels spin fairly OK without noises and after replacing the idler arm pushing 'n pulling on the wheel/tire seems solid enuff OK...

Wishing All who read or comment on this thread a peaceful & stress free week & Thanks too...

I watched this YouTube video about replacing Mitsubishi Montero brake rotors: https://youtu.be/bL0KM0pH9_M?feature=shared


(https://youtu.be/bL0KM0pH9_M?feature=shared)

[FMS88]

The FSM recommends cleaning and repacking the front wheel bearings every 30k. That seems excessive unless you frequently drive on beaches, through mudholes or ford streams. I think 50-60k is fine for a street vehicle. Look at pages 8-13 through 8-15 of the Haynes manual for a good description of maintaining or replacing the bearings. Also, don't separate the rotor and hub when working on the bearings.

You don't need to remove the hub to change the lower ball joints. Just support the lower CA when you separate the joint from the knuckle. You may need a hefty ball joint remover to separate them, and use a floor jack to raise the CA during reassembly. After it's all together, take it to the alignment shop.

[xboxrox]

Amen FMS88 :)

Five-O-Motors Mgr Chad thought perhaps the bad idler arm caused the tire wear BUT I was not thinking quick enuff to tell him that even after installing the new idler arm the tire camber is still very positive ANYWAY Chad said rotate the tires before getting the front alignment (bring the rear tires to the front) Chad wants to push 'n pull the wheels to check ball joints and bearings to preclude extra work... Also Chad was not sure if new OEM hubs come with seals & bearings (some do & some don't)
Chad said his shop has the tools for installing new bearing races as well...

Maybe me & waifu will rotate tires this Saturday...

Thanks for all the straight skinny :thumbup: