4g64t, 4L80, 4 link build

[colt2c00]

Just want to start off by saying I had fat fingers earlier with my username so now it makes no sense to me haha.

My vehicle history...

- First real build was a 1989 Dodge Colt that I put a 4g63t into, then made it AWD after I wrecked the FWD trans. It was fun, quick, and ugly. It had multiple stages of life and the latest turbo I had was a 60-1 something or other about 15 years ago.

- Next one was a 1992 BMW E36 from Japan. Put a built LS3 into it with a t56, then upgraded the rear diff to a ford 8.8 with the independent rear suspension still. Put way too much money in it, loved the chassis, weight balance, and the power. Was just a pain to do anything under the hood with the engine, not enough room. It was 11.81 seconds at 120 mph I believe.

And now I have the Ram 50. Multiple other vehicles in between but nothing of any major importance. I picked this one up this last spring with the intent of building it. It ran like crap. The fuel tank was full of rust, fuel pump prefilter was cut off, a cheap/low pressure fuel pump was in the tank, tiny speaker wire was used from the pump to the chassis connector which was also just bare wires twisted together sitting exposed 1 inch below the box, and the air flow sensor was failed.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26938&stc=1

Removed the original wide block 2.4. Positioned the narrow block 2.4 with the gm 4L80 trans bolted to it using Hinchers setup. Made my motor mounts to move the motor forward. Installed new cams and rockers in the head along with a truck water pump. Went with the thermostat housing that comes straight out to the side. I have a new crank and rods to make it a 2.1 destroked engine which is the future plans of this block.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26939&stc=1

The aluminum rad is what I had installed in the talon previously, it fits amazingly well with a new bracket. The sides of the bracket bolt to the factory rad mounts, the bottom of the new rad mount has tabs that the rad posts sit in with a layer of rubber between them, the top of the bracket has tabs that bolt down with rubber again on the top posts.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26940&stc=1

The intercooler is what was in the talon too. Can't remember the exact dimensions on it but its 3.5" thick and fits behind the factory grill and bumper. The outlet ended up right below the battery tray and will be cut shorter yet, the inlet will be shortened once the turbo is in its new home. Ignore the headlights in the picture, the previous owner did those lol.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26941&stc=1

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. This is a nice project. If you can add any pics of the engine and trans assembly that would be awesome. What was the narrow 2.4 sourced from - the Talon?

[colt2c00]

Back side of the intercooler, also shows the rad frame I built.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26949&stc=1

The engine has been wired up to a LinkECU. I used a very old version of this in my colt and really liked it. Uses the factory 4g63t harness which was nice. The new one I have has a CAN bus network on it which ties into the new dash and wideband sensor. I have removed the wires that are not required and added a few extra to run the new throttlebody which is drive by wire. Reason for DBW was to get a better idle and electronic cruise control. At the time I took these pictures I was still going the route of the cable throttlebody.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26950&stc=1

New dash/instrument cluster is a Powertune Digital unit. Touchscreen, color, gps, basically its a raspberry pi with a pi touchscreen that someone put the work into to build a decent interface and set it up. It comes in a 3d printed case and so far they have great customer support. I have removed mine from its original case and made my own, I wanted to change the orientation of the wire connections and placement on the screen. It has 4 screens that are select-able. One of the default ones is a performance related screen showing 0-60, 1/8, 1/4 mile times and lots of other info. It gets its data from the ECU on the CAN bus network, so basically anything that is wired to the ECU can be displayed on here. The original screen protector is still on it so its got lots of glare right now.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26951&stc=1

The 4L80 transmission has a trans brake in it and a few billet pieces inside. Torque converter is hopefully set to stall around 3600 rpm... not too sure yet how well the engine will get there or launch from there. The trans fits well in the trans tunnel. The cooler fittings are close to the tunnel but they can still be removed with the trans in place.

Front hubs have been changed out to the Toyota pickup hubs to get the 5x114.3 pattern. Front rotors are from a 370Z (14" rotors). The hubs require some machinging or grinding to make the outer diameter smaller to have clearance for the rotor. Front calipers are from a 2000 Chevy V8 Camaro (dual piston), they were cheaper than the Nissan calipers and I think they will still have enough clamping force. The pads don't cover the full face of the disc but for the size of the truck and the size of the rotor I am sure it will be sufficient.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26952&stc=1

[colt2c00]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. This is a nice project. If you can add any pics of the engine and trans assembly that would be awesome. What was the narrow 2.4 sourced from - the Talon?

This "post wont be visible until a moderator approves it" is annoying but I been there before being the new guy on a forum... eventually it disappears haha.

Anyways, the 2.4 engine was previously in a 1990 talon that I had. The engine was put in that car before I got it. I do not know exactly which vehicle it came from originally, but I am in Canada and there are not that many Galants around here. The crank in it is a 6 bolt, and the head on it is a DOHC head that was originally in my Colt 16 years ago with the ports opened up and oversized valves.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26953&stc=1
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26954&stc=1

I don't currently have any pictures of the motor and trans bolted together on my computer, I will check on my phone in a bit. They do have to come out once more before spring when i get all the mounts powder coated so I can take some pics then.

I had to get a different crank shaft adapter made up though. According to the torque converter vendor I was dealing with Bills piece had too much tolerance in the hole where the torque converter pilot goes. The vendor says 3-5 thou max, I was measuring 15. I also had to make two shims between the trans and the block adapter plate to get the converter to pull out of the pump the required amount.

[colt2c00]

Rear diff is from a Ford Sport Trac with the 8.8, it came with a 4.10 gear ratio and factory locker which will stay in it until I de-stroke the motor then I think I am going with a 4.30 ratio and different locker. I have cut the factory leaf mounting tabs and sway bar mounts off then dropped it off for sandblasting. I drew up the brackets I need for the parallel 4-link mounts and waiting for them to get cut out. Going to use 1.25" 0.120 DOM tubing for the links with heim joints. Haven't decided yet on a watts link or panhard bar.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26955&stc=1
- Not too sure why this picture is rotated... it views properly on my pc.

I have QA1 double adjustable coilovers for all 4 corners. I really liked the ability I had in the BMW to adjust the bound and rebound individually which is why I chose these. I don't have pictures of these, but they look nice lol. I had the springs powder coated black.

Between the frame and the outer skin on the front of the box is where I mounted the engine oil cooler and trans oil cooler. They have large fans on them. There will be almost nothing in that area for natural air flow, so I have to watch the temps when I start driving it, see if the fans can keep up. Might need to change something on them in the future. Good thing it doesn't get super hot up here in Canada much. If needed I can try and make an air scoop somewhere to force air into it while in motion like the bottom of my Grand National has for the intercooler, it seems to work for it.

[geezer101]

Thanks for the info. Too bad you don't know the vehicle the block was sourced from. In manual form it could be mounted up to a narrow 5 speed with a reinforced sump plate which would be cool as well. Were the QA1 coil overs up front for an S10? I always thought the coil overs for a Mustang II would work up front on these trucks as well.

[colt2c00]

Thanks for the info. Too bad you don't know the vehicle the block was sourced from. In manual form it could be mounted up to a narrow 5 speed with a reinforced sump plate which would be cool as well. Were the QA1 coil overs up front for an S10? I always thought the coil overs for a Mustang II would work up front on these trucks as well.

Are there any special markings on the 2.4 blocks to indicate what it was originally from? I have only dealt with the 4g63 and 4g61 blocks in the past, not sure if the 4g64 blocks have any different markings.

The front coilovers are part number GD401, summit shows these as fitting the old firebirds/camaro cars. I seen a post somewhere showing someone installed these on the truck and tried out a few different springs ending up with the mustang II spring because its got a taper to it to fit a bit better. I believe the guy in the post said it was for an S-10 but I can't fully remember, it was about 4 or 5 months ago I seen it lol. The spring part number I have is 8MB375 for the front. The mount in the lower control arm needs to be modified to fit these coilovers, the factory nuts need removing.

The Mustang II coilovers I am looking at on the internet have a lower mount that is just a bushing. So if someone wanted to try one of those then they would have to get a shaft or a spool made that would insert into the lower bushing and have a flat side on each end with a hole drilled in it to bolt to the lower control arm. I also can't find an extended length on the Mustang II stuff, the QA1 GD401 for comparison is 12.88 inches extended.

[dash]

G4CS (or something like that) was 1990 hyundai sonata 2.4L sohc. Narrow. Somebody gave me one years back

what driveby throttle body used ?
So this is a street truck, biased towards drag(transbrake) ?
Fabricating a 4-link, so you could use coilovers out back also ?
. Some 4cyl mini pickups in the 7s on leafs
Why the 4L80, and the Link plug n play ecu will control the tranny ?
. That tranny wide as hell as you go lower. Be glad its not getting 'tucked up' into a japanese car floorpan
17 inch wheels ?
. Must be some high revver if 4.30 gear.


An intense build. Would be cool to see the electronics in harmony.... and dash display especially

[colt2c00]

G4CS (or something like that) was 1990 hyundai sonata 2.4L sohc. Narrow. Somebody gave me one years back

what driveby throttle body used ?
So this is a street truck, biased towards drag(transbrake) ?
Fabricating a 4-link, so you could use coilovers out back also ?
. Some 4cyl mini pickups in the 7s on leafs
Why the 4L80, and the Link plug n play ecu will control the tranny ?
. That tranny wide as hell as you go lower. Be glad its not getting 'tucked up' into a japanese car floorpan
17 inch wheels ?
. Must be some high revver if 4.30 gear.


An intense build. Would be cool to see the electronics in harmony.... and dash display especially


The throttlebody is off a Mitsubishi Endeavor with the V6. Its the same bolt pattern as a DSM flange. I think it was 62 or 63 mm, so I will need an odd coupler when I build the intercooler piping. From what I understand pretty much any electronic throttlebody will work as long as it has 6 wires going to it. There are two TPS signal wires, one +5v DC, one Ground, and 2 wires for the motor. The throttle pedal also has 2 TPS sensors. If any pair of TPS sensors deviates over a certain amount the ecu goes into limp mode and sets the throttlebody to an idle position, rather than failing at WOT or its last position.

Its main purpose is to go drag racing, although I live about 2.5 hours from the nearest track... so it will spend a decent amount of time on the local streets/car shows and what not. 4 link for the rear end because I wanted to try and get the most traction I can without running a crazy wide tire setup. I would like to stay away from going wider than 275 for a tire. There is not much for adjustment with leaf springs regarding anti-squat, just ladder bars/traction bars and shock adjustments.

I picked the 4L80 because I wanted an electronically controlled auto transmission. My colt was manual with a larger than normal turbo, the turbo lag after shifting was horrible unless I used the no lift to shift feature but then that wasn't the best on the synchros and me jamming the shift cables lol. The LS BWM was a manual but no turbo, the trans was way better quality and build and I could shift it pretty quick, but a large turbo and auto I think is the way to go. The way I see it is the 4L80 now is what the TH400 was 20 years ago, but 10 or 15 years from now the TH400 is going to be harder to come by for parts I think, who knows, its a guess. The Link ECU will not control an auto trans, for that I am using a GM 12200411 ECM. It is a factory computer that can have the engine side of it basically disabled so it can act as a stand alone trans computer. It requires a TPS signal and a engine speed signal that I think is 24 pulses per revolution. To get that I am taking the mitsu sensor on the cam, made a math table in the Link computer and multiplied it by 24, output it to a pin that is wired to the 0411 ECM. The Link is capable of frequency output of 10,000 hz area, a way higher frequency than I will ever need for this engine.

Those are 19" Volk Racing GTS wheels on the front. They still have the original rubbers on them from 2006 I believe, the tits are still visible on them lol. They were on the talon, really like the style of them and the fact that they are not made any more. For drag racing I will be running 17" or smaller in the rear with drag radials.

The 4.3 gear will be because of the destroked 4g64/2.1 liter in the future. 28" tall tire with a 4.30 diff ratio on a 4L80 trans will be around 120 mph at the end of second gear (~9000 rpm).

[dash]

Dunno what's your ET goal, but this somewhat similar ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw7mvHNAy6o
7s on E85, stroked toyota 4AGE, C4 auto, leafs & 225 drag radial. Amazing stuff

[colt2c00]

Figured I would share a few things that I drew up that helped me along the way. I have used a 3d printer now for about 3 years now and I own two different ones. It has helped me a few times on various projects, like playing around with different dimensions to get the positioning correct for my brake caliper adapters so they can be cut from metal. Also used it in the past to help make a new design of a heim joint/ball joint for my other truck for longer travel suspension.

These are clamps for 6 AN and 8 AN hoses. I 3d printed them from PETG. They are held together with tye-wraps, then tye-wraped onto a metal tab that I bolted to the chassis on the truck. Keeps the lines from rubbing or moving where they shouldn't be.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26957&stc=1

With all the wiring I was doing for the engine I was able to mostly use the factory 4g63 harness and factory colors with a few exceptions. The trans wiring harness I had to make was all from scratch though. I only had 5 wire colors that I bought, so to identify them I drew this up and 3d printed it. Flat side clamps in a vice, 16 gauge wire in the hole in the bottom, colored sharpie in the hole in the top. I found putting a 17mm socket on the top of the sharpie was enough weight to leave a nice wide stripe on the wire as it was pulled through. This gave me 3-4 color variations of each wire, FYI, a blue sharpie and a black sharpie are almost identical on an orange wire. This simple thing amused a few of my friends that came by and checked out the truck, how something so simple can be made on a 3d printer that is functional.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26958&stc=1

[colt2c00]

Dunno what's your ET goal, but this somewhat similar ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw7mvHNAy6o
7s on E85, stroked toyota 4AGE, C4 auto, leafs & 225 drag radial. Amazing stuff

Thats an impressive truck he has, wonder if he is spraying for just first gear or all of them? Under a ton too haha, thats nice and light. I want to get into the 10s which I dont think will be out of reach with pump gas. E85 or race fuel isn't really available locally where I am at, so pump gas it is for me. I know that there is a high chance that N2O is probably in my future, at least for the launch and first gear. I am going to wait until the track says I need a cage to start building one, just don't want to build everything all at once, I want to be able to drive it and enjoy it as it progresses.

[dash]

if u choose... run pump + injection, as the buicks been doing forever
10s a very reasonable goal for a street DSM auto tranny Mmax. The more 'dialed in' a combo, the less power it takes
this DSM powered datsun is a bit lighter than a Mmax. 3spd auto & 4 link... mid 9s
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-datsun-build.502426/

since we're on the topic... here is a full street car goes 10.3. 1.8L low compression + popular lightwt GM 3spd auto
he's only running 22psi on a puny precision 5557. Leaf spring & 225 radial. Very efficient setup, is the point
https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51130-10second-street-ca18det-ke55/page/6/#comments

[crvtec90]

:thumbup:

[colt2c00]

I didn't get as much done this weekend as I was hoping to, spent all day yesterday driving and getting a snow blower.
But I picked up the diff from the sandblasters down the street and did the clean up of the axle tubes where the original stuff mounted.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26988&stc=1

Also picked up the 4 link mounts from the machine shop, had them cut them out on a water table.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26989&stc=1

Cut the axle tube brackets and got them into their new home roughly. Just tack welded them together for now, fairly square but will double check next time I am back at the shop.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26990&stc=1
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26991&stc=1

Back to work tomorrow.

[xboxrox]

Canadians have too much money ;) At least you're spending it wisely; that radiator musta cost twice what my truck is worth ~ am curious the brand..? Kudos

[geezer101]

Canadians have too much money ;) At least you're spending it wisely; that radiator musta cost twice what my truck is worth ~ am curious the brand..? Kudos


All alloy radiators aren't that bad - $300ish USD. The good thing about using drivetrain parts like a GM auto trans and the Ford rear end is price/availability. You'd be in a tight spot to find an auto 4 speed from a Mighty Max and it wouldn't like having all that turbo torque pushed through it for long. Can't wait to see how it all goes together!

[colt2c00]

Canadians have too much money ;) At least you're spending it wisely; that radiator musta cost twice what my truck is worth ~ am curious the brand..? Kudos

It was $360 CAD with free shipping, that came with the two fans and the shroud. Ebay search for "Yonaka Radiator". This one was specific to the 90-94 talon chassis, but with enough searching there probably is something else that might possibly fit better. The welds on it don't look too bad. Definitely could have been welded better with a skilled person behind a tig, but that person would most definitely not be me when its aluminum lol.

[colt2c00]

Its been a while, I have been making progress although its not as much as I was hoping for, but its in the right direction anyways. The 4 link is done, installed. Bars have been powdercoated, diff and the brackets are all bare still. This pic is still with the stock front suspension on.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27144&stc=1

And speaking of front suspension... you can say these bushings were well beyond due for replacement. Poly bushings were installed in their place.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27145&stc=1

Just a picture of the 19's that I will run on the street and the 15's for the drag strip. Once this rubber burns off the 19's then it will get something with some more sidewall, I just find it hard to take off tires that have less then a few hundred miles on them just to change them.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27146&stc=1

[colt2c00]

I 3d printed a fixture to hold the 1.25" sch 10 stainless elbows in the band saw. This fixture allows me to set the angle I need to cut the 90 degree fitting at and secure it tightly in the saw with no slip. The first test cut took about 4 minutes to cut, I got it started then walked away until it was done.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27147&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27148&stc=1

[colt2c00]

This is where the fuel tank will sit. It has 2x2" square tubing running across the front and back of it.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27149&stc=1

Using the OEM sending unit, had to bend the arm to "calibrate it" for the new tank haha. The fuel filler cap once fully threaded in should fit just below the bed of the box. Planning on putting a cutout into the box bed mounted on hinges with some clasp of some sort to hold it closed. The square piece is removable, this is how the fuel pump is accessed.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27150&stc=1

I decided to make the fuel pump mount bracket that will be bolted in place. This way in the future if I ever change fuel pump designs I can just make a new bracket and bolt it in compared to trying to modify a bracket in place or weld in place in a small access hole. The reason for the odd mount, is to run 2 pumps if required in the future too. Only plan on running 1 for now.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27151&stc=1

[colt2c00]

For the QA1 stuff in the front... I believe the part number was GD401 (dual adjustable Mustang II coilover), it fits kinda. The upper shock mount needs to be lowered about 2 inches (the top of the threaded rod is too short otherwise). With the 8" 375 lbs spring they have, there is too much spring tension when raising up the lower control arm to attach to the upper control arm. The truck was coming off the jackstands with about a 4" gap between the upper ball joint and the spindle. So the either the lower control arm needs to be modified to lower the bottom shock mount, the upper spring pocket needs to be raised, or a shorter coilover installed. I already cut the OEM spring pocket off these arms and welded plates in their spot to help strengthen it back up.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27152&stc=1

So for now I am leaning towards buying new lower control arms (with spring pockets haha), installing that with my coilovers with the stock springs in the stock locations. This wont give me adjustable ride height, but will give me adjustable dampening at least for now. Then in the future sometime, use these lower control arms to make a jig to allow me to fabricate new arms, either tubular or boxed unless I find a spring that fits that is shorter than 8".

Still on the list to finish, weld in AN fittings for fuel pump into tank, wire fuel pump, powder coat outside and coat the inside of fuel tank, build turbo manifold, intercooler piping, find and attach some seats that fit better and do the lower control arm thing already mentioned. Good chance that I will find other stuff along the way to work on because thats the way it seems to happen...

[geezer101]

I liked the idea of the Mustang II coil overs but looking at your work I think it would need some radical upper spring tower/shock mount surgery. If it came down to literally lopping the whole thing off, I'd try to figure out a way to make the upper control arm adjustable so the camber could be dialled in. There are prefabricated upper spring/shock mounts that can be welded in, but getting the camber right...:scratchheadyellow:

By the way - nice work with your truck :thumbup:

[colt2c00]

I liked the idea of the Mustang II coil overs but looking at your work I think it would need some radical upper spring tower/shock mount surgery. If it came down to literally lopping the whole thing off, I'd try to figure out a way to make the upper control arm adjustable so the camber could be dialled in. There are prefabricated upper spring/shock mounts that can be welded in, but getting the camber right...:scratchheadyellow:

By the way - nice work with your truck :thumbup:

I am not certain I want to cut the upper spring pocket off the frame and build something new to fit. Perhaps in the future, if I did that then I would change it to a design where the upper spring mount is on the coilover itself like a traditional strut design instead of sitting in a pocket on the frame. I feel it would give more options for coilover setups. In the past I have made a fwd hatchback into an AWD chassis, it took a lot of measuring but everything passed the alignment and I am not sure I want to do that much again.

Thanks, glad someone other than me likes it haha

[atownbrg]

wow, impressed! Goes to show what can be accomplished with knowledge and skill (and some time / $ but whatever). Here I am fiddling with a gas tank! Curious what 3d printer you have that made the tube clamp holder thing?

[colt2c00]

wow, impressed! Goes to show what can be accomplished with knowledge and skill (and some time / $ but whatever). Here I am fiddling with a gas tank! Curious what 3d printer you have that made the tube clamp holder thing?

That was made on my Predator, with a 0.6mm nozzle. I also have a CR10S Pro but it just can't print at the speeds that the predator can, plus the predator has a super sticky base that never has failed a print yet.

[atownbrg]

wow, I have never seen a 3d printer like that. That must be the Delta configuration or something, very cool. Something i want to try out!

[colt2c00]

wow, I have never seen a 3d printer like that. That must be the Delta configuration or something, very cool. Something i want to try out!

Yes, its a Delta configuration. The extruder is called a "flying extruder" because it moves about half as much as the print head and is suspended further up. Because of that and the fact that the print bed never moves it can print at a faster speed than the typical 3d printer. With a few different parts and lots of knowledge they can be insanely fast or huge. This one is obsolete as of a year ago atleast, but there are other delta printers out there.

[colt2c00]

This is the 3d printed fixture/jig I did. Basically used it to feed the pipes through the band saw to cut close to the right angles, then clean them up a bit with a flapper wheel on a grinder. FYI, stainless cuts real slow, took me about 20 minutes per tube.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27166&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27167&stc=1

Polished up the tubes and taped them together. This is a task that seems to require more hands than what I have because I never could get it bang on square.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27168&stc=1

Then used some of the elbows to help form the transition pieces that will go from the oval on the head to the round turbo pipes. The circumference of the oval on the flange is damn near the exact same as the outside diameter of 1.5" pipe. So I cut four 1" pieces, heated them up, squished in the vice, used a flapper wheel to make them a tad smaller, polished them and squeezed them into the flange ports then tack welded them in place.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27169&stc=1

Next step is to start trying to piece together each runner, then find a way to cut a hole in the collector somewhere to put the waste-gate on? Not really to sure what I am going to use to do that or how to do it.

[geezer101]

Mad skills and problem solving - geezer approves :thumbup: I know that you can buy these kinds of parts online but I doubt they will have the same quality and fitment as your end product. I bought a set of (REALLY) cheap ebay headers for my Hyundai and it swallowed a week of my time fixing the gawdawful manifold ports and inner collector overhang...

[colt2c00]

Mad skills and problem solving - geezer approves :thumbup: I know that you can buy these kinds of parts online but I doubt they will have the same quality and fitment as your end product. I bought a set of (REALLY) cheap ebay headers for my Hyundai and it swallowed a week of my time fixing the gawdawful manifold ports and inner collector overhang...

There are places that sell the collectors cut and tack welded ready for fitment, but for the price of them I figured I would try and make it. If I could find a decent manifold that I know would fit I most likely would have bought it to save time. But there are some people like me that still wouldn't be happy with it because it's not orientated idealy, or something is too close lol.

[colt2c00]

So I got a new set of lower control arms because I cut the spring pockets off my original ones. Tried to mount the shock under the bracket and use the OEM spring, the QA1 shock is too short for that. Also the adjusting knobs and lower part of the shock housing starts to interfere with the LCA. So I drilled out the threaded spots for the shock mount and removed the rest with a chisel.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27193&stc=1

I opened up the one side of it to allow the shock to sit flat on the LCA and not the spring pocket piece, still need to square up the hole on the other side and grind off the remaining piece of weld that is left.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27195&stc=1

The shock does fit this way relatively well, I dont think in this picture it was totally square with the world, it needs to be a bit more to the left. I do plan on rounding off the mounting tabs a bit on the shock, if needed I will also clearance the area of the first coil to allow it not to touch. I did test this earlier the other day, these shocks do fit inside the OEM springs. The springs do not interfere with the compression/rebound adjustments, but to adjust them I will most likely have to jack the truck up to allow the springs to relax so I can reach in.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27196&stc=1

Cant wait until after this month is over, currently in the middle of an outage at work and don't have much free time for this.

[geezer101]

You didn't want to completely remove the spring seat on the LCA? I don't think it will affect the structural integrity of the control arm and it will give you some finger space to adjust the damper/rebound. It will also give you that extra wriggle room to adjust the lower shock mount.

*addendum - I did see that you had made that mod to the original LCA's

[colt2c00]

You didn't want to completely remove the spring seat on the LCA? I don't think it will affect the structural integrity of the control arm and it will give you some finger space to adjust the damper/rebound. It will also give you that extra wriggle room to adjust the lower shock mount.

*addendum - I did see that you had made that mod to the original LCA's

Yeah, that was my first trial :). Thought of cutting that lower spring seat area totally out and moving the lower shock mount to the very bottom of the control arm then strengthening the sides but that wouldnt give me the difference I needed for those QA1 springs, plus it would be ugly.

I think for this season I will run these shocks with the OEM worn springs, then work on modifying the upper spring pocket/frame area next winter to run the QA1 as a coilover.

[geezer101]

I forgot that you haven't been able to successfully get a complete coil over in there due to the top mount issues. This is going to take some careful planning to pull off without leaving you with a cut up spring tower and no suspension. It takes some guts :thumbup:

[colt2c00]

Yesterday after work I finished up the work on the fuel tank and dropped it off to get powder coated, also spent a bit of time on the one front corner.

Its a bit of a procedure, but if you leave the top of the QA1 shock threaded on just a few turns with the small nut holding it in the chassis, push the OEM coil up into its normal home, put the bushing bolt into the frame. Then using slightly longer bolts I loosely bolted the QA1 shock to the control arm, started jacking it up until I was able to pop it into position, replace the long bolts with proper ones and tighten up. Noticed the control arm wanted to sit naturally more forward than where it should be, so I used a ratchet strap to pull it to the rear while jacking it up. Got it to the point where I was able to connect the upper control arm and lower control arm to the spindle.

Unfortunately I am going to undo part of what I did to try and rotate the spring, reason for that is it doesn't sit in the pocket in the lower control arm properly, its a bit out on the one side, looks like it needs to be clocked a bit more counter clockwise. Also forgot to mention that I did not install the rubber isolator pad that sits on the top of the OEM spring, reason for this is to try and gain a bit more space lol.

[colt2c00]

Last night I got the spring positioned properly and now it sits in the lower spring pocket nice. Everything is still bolted together loosely. This shows how much clearance there is for the compression and rebound adjustment knobs inside the coils. Its tight but they do turn and don't rub, I don't think the spring will move enough during travel to move and hit the knobs.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27203&stc=1

And this is what it looks like. It still boggles my mind how large that upper spring pocket is and how far out of the frame it sits. Definitely going to be modifying that in the future, clean it up and make it open and easily adjustable/easier for maintenance. FYI, I still like the look of the 14" rotor on here :)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27204&stc=1

[colt2c00]

Welded up the collector for the turbo. My hand control definitely needs more practice, but its welded for now. I am going to put a second weld over the first with a thinner filler to get it to look nicer and fill in the undercut areas a bit. The flange weld isn't undercut but on the collector tubes there are spots that are. Some of the tube welds are oxidized a bit because of the extended tungsten stick out I needed to get in there. Also going to have to work on the heat control more when its time to weld the tubes together, I can see it warping and twisting more if I keep that up lol.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27210&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27211&stc=1

[geezer101]

Your welds are thicker than the ebay header welds. Anyone who is critical of what you're doing should try it themselves. You're not going to get many cake-walk welds making these either. This is one skill I wish I could get invested in... can't wait to see the end product!

[xboxrox]

Good looking welds colt ~ there will be less heat input if you stop welding more often or when position becomes uncomfortable ~ n' let things cool down ~ try to increase your speed of travel while welding it helps reduce heat input too ~ this minimizes discoloration of the metal BUT the real importance of minimizing heat input is to retain the qualities of the base metal i.e. Crest keeps it's corrosion resistance ~ You deserve a straight A in welding Sir..!
:)

[colt2c00]

Picked up my fuel tank from getting powdercoated, vacuumed it out, rinsed it, then let it sit in the sun with a shop vac blowing into it to ensure as much moisture was out if it as I could get. Dropped it into the frame, need to mount the pump, sending unit and wire it up next.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27251&stc=1

This is what the manifold ended up looking like. Since this pic was taken I did polish the tubes yesterday and its ready for welding.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27252&stc=1

The little purge box I made sitting ontop of one of the ports for when I was welding the adapter sleeve into the flange. I did fully weld these sleeves into this flange and its still fairly flat. Welded this side of the sleeves and the inside of them too (they are pressed into the holes a bit).
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27253&stc=1

[geezer101]

Tank looks good, manifold is coming along nicely. Your rear axle and links look pretty clean too :grin:

[colt2c00]

Thanks, the axle still is not painted (it wasn't high on my to do list).

A pic of the polished pipes tac welded together.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27254&stc=1

Managed to weld two of the joints last night after work. Probably wont be back at it until Friday.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27255&stc=1

[colt2c00]

Fuel tank work is done. Just need to extend the fuel lines and wires on it.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27285&stc=1

Manifold is mostly done. The 4 runners are fully welded, need to work on the wastegate now, probably have to use the plasma cutter to get a hole in the collector for it then clean it up with the carbide burrs. I am going to try and drill the hole with my drill press and a hole saw but I am doubtful its going to work. Also plan on making a support bracket for the weight to go back down lower on the block to help with the weight.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27286&stc=1

This is my planned location for the wastegate, close to the collector.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27287&stc=1

[geezer101]

Ooooh that's a big turbo. This is going to be a busy truck once it's on the road. You didn't opt to have the coolant manifold relocated to the front of the head? There's a freeze plug there that can be knocked out and an adapter fitted - this is how the DSM guys work around RWD swaps.

[geezer101]

...and the fuel tank looks military grade. Nice work :grin:

[xboxrox]

Whew !! How do you plan to use this creation, 1/4 mile timeslips ? Maybe under 13 seconds ? WOW :shock:

[colt2c00]

The turbo I believe is a precision turbo 6266? Its been a while since I bought it lol. I thought of relocating the motor to the front but figured there is lots of room in there still so I just moved the motor forward. I did this with the steering system off the truck, built the motor mounts, tranny mounts then when it came to putting the steering system back on I found the drag link bar its an inch or less from the flex plate. If the motor was left in the rear position then I dont think it would be an issue. I am doubtful the chassis will flex enough to have it move and touch, but we will see.


This summer I will be racing in the Miles of Mayhem event if I can get it going by then. ~1700 kms in 5 days and racing each day. Its an 1/8 mile event but I am aiming to get it to 1/4 mile tracks. I will be limited to the 11.5 in the 1/4 until I get a cage built, which I plan on doing this coming winter, after that perhaps get into the 10s?

My LS3 E36 BMW I built did 11.8@121 with a 6 speed manual and an independent ford 8.8 I put in the back. I am expecting this should do considerably better (more traction, less weight, more power, and no shifting delays).

[geezer101]

Have you read LSRMikes' thread for his truck? You are sort of heading down his path - it was a mad build using the G63B 2.0 for the basis.

[dash]

62mm, 2.0, auto, stock leafs.... 'should' low 10s, if everything's clicking

[colt2c00]

Have you read LSRMikes' thread for his truck? You are sort of heading down his path - it was a mad build using the G63B 2.0 for the basis.

I have not seen his build thread yet, will have to try and find it.

[colt2c00]

62mm, 2.0, auto, stock leafs.... 'should' low 10s, if everything's clicking

Except I have a 2.4 and a 4 link in the rear :)

[colt2c00]

This piece ends up being the runner that feeds the wastegate from the collector. It required way more grinding on the right side to get it to mate properly. To make the hole in the collector I used my plasma cutter, then cleaned it up and opened it up the last little bit with the carbide burr on the die grinder.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27296&stc=1

Wastegate mounted and also made a quick downpipe. The 3" downpipe fits but it doesn't leave much room between the frame where the idler arm is and the trans bellhousing, so next time I pull the trans I am going to clearance the corner of the bellhousing just to try and prevent any rattles.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27297&stc=1

My coolant pipe that goes from the thermostat to the upper rad connection. Some stainless 316 tubing from an old valve at work that we recently replaced and had to retube with larger tubing.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27298&stc=1

This is with it in place. I do want to make some little tabs yet to secure it to at least one of the valve cover bolts, mostly to prevent any rattles. It most likely will absorb some of the radiant heat from the header, but I dont think it will get too hot for the rad to handle, most of the heat should be by the collector?
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27299&stc=1

FIC 1200 cc injectors, if these are not enough I do have an older set of 1600's just in case.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27300&stc=1

Cleaned up the old FIC fuel rail too :) My plan for today was to get this side of the engine done. I clearanced the motor mount that goes to the block a bit to allow more room for the starter removal/install. Went to install the starter and it wouldn't go in enough but I swear months ago it went in with no issues. Found out after about 10 minutes of screwing around that the shim I made to push the trans back a few though covers the starter hole a bit haha. So I am planning on using the little body saw I have at home to cut it out tomorrow. Then the starter and intake can go on.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27301&stc=1

Put the Kiggly Racing head oil pressure regulator in.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27302&stc=1

Tomorrow I hope to get the starter to fit, intake on, and wastegate tied into downpipe. Then try my luck again at aluminum welding. I really want to put the throttlebody on the outlet of the FMIC for 2 reasons. One is because its under the battery tray and I will be cursing myself when trying to bolt it up, but its out of sight. And two because then the elbow wont be right behind the rad fan. Its drive by wire so the throttle cable length or placement wont be an issue.

[colt2c00]

I don't have any updated pictures of it but I did manage to complete the driverside intercooler piping with the throttlebody located below the battery tray. I did trim the tray down and make it so I can access it though. Also had to trim the lip on the fender right below the tray up to the upper control arm, it was in the way of the intercooler pipe. I can totally see why a FMIC with a lower outlet port would be beneficial for piping routing, its pretty tight for me.

The passenger side intercooler pipe is simple, just one bend to make, still have to plumb the wastegate outlet over there too.

The starter issue has also been resolved, trimmed the shim with the pneumatic body saw. Tried for a few hours to get better at aluminum welding but had no luck. I can get a puddle, but most of the time the filler melts before I get it in the puddle. Another time perhaps, pretty sure my issue is me not pulling the filler out enough so its relatively hot before I even try and dip it in.

[colt2c00]

This is showing the lip on the inner fender that I had to trim for the intercooler pipe, also trimmed down the battery tray. The battery still fits fully on the tray. Perhaps in the future it will be relocated but for now this works fine.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27312&stc=1

This shows the intercooler pipe on the drivers side. Its tight, a lot of bends, and the DBW throttlebody is mounted on the intercooler outlet. The combination of bends and couplers should allow enough flex to not tear or break anything when the motor torques up, I couldn't really see another way of doing it with this intercooler and intake.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27313&stc=1

Overflow jug is now relocated for easier plumbing. Hopefully nobody mixes up the fluids between these two jugs haha.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27314&stc=1

Fuel pressure regulator location. I would have ran the hoses for it but I need to get one 45* hose end for the inlet to it. Still need clean the fender below it, its nasty.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27315&stc=1

Catch can locations. No room for a drain to be plumbed in, but there is enough room to unthread them and empty the bowls. I really like the design of these cans over what I had in the BMW, these have threaded dipsticks in them to check the levels.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27316&stc=1

Downpipe to the flex joint and flex joint to the first piece of exhaust pipe that runs to a resonator.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27317&stc=1

Its pretty tight in there for a 3" exhaust but it shouldn't rattle.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27318&stc=1

Just beyond this picture is the resonator, and I stopped for the day with the exhaust at the back of the cab... my saw blade bit the dust, broke a tooth off a spit out the cut off piece. Time to get a new blade. (You can also see that I haven't finished the trans mount, need to drill 2 holes and bolt it up.)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27319&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27320&stc=1

Bought a set of wire cutters and crimpers with long handles at Princess Auto the other day for the purpose of making a bead forming tool. I cut the wire snips off the tip, used the grinder to also round off some of the other edges in the groves. It works pretty well but I wouldn't want to put a lip on a full car build haha. I only needed to do a few fittings as the others I used already had lips on them. FYI, if you do this, don't go full send on the handles the first time around, it can poke through the tube material. I went one time around the tube going about half way then the next time around I went to the point I was happy with.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27321&stc=1

[geezer101]

Whoa, hold up. You mounted the throttle body on the intercooler? I've never heard of it being set up like that before. And that is not a transmission mount - that is an integrated frame rail brace. This thing is being built like a tank! You're using some very unique lateral problem solving design principles.

Geezer approves :thumbup:

[colt2c00]

Whoa, hold up. You mounted the throttle body on the intercooler? I've never heard of it being set up like that before. And that is not a transmission mount - that is an integrated frame rail brace. This thing is being built like a tank! You're using some very unique lateral problem solving design principles.

Geezer approves :thumbup:

haha thanks. I built a X cross brace under my LS3 swapped BMW before to help with chassis flex, kind of had that idea when building this trans mount. Figured integrating the trans mount and driveshaft loop together would help to stiffen things up a bit. It can't hurt. Was also debating on running a 1.25" or 1" piece of tubing from the front edge of the lower portion of the chassis 4 link mount up to the back side of this x brace thing, not sure if its going to be a noticeable change if I do i though.

As for the throttlebody on the intercooler, if anything I can see some possibly idle control issues but doubt it? Just trying to think of any issues and really its maybe a cubic foot or so of volume?

[dash]

Except I have a 2.4 and a 4 link in the rear
neither will help a street Mmax go any quicker, @6000+ rpm

You're using some very unique lateral problem solving design principles.
more or less.... like solutions, looking for a problem. No principles. Throttle body
no chassis flexing in the plane that x-brace offers strength/is laid out. Weak vertically


colt likes to build stuff. Has the means, all the toys & big balz. Heck of a truck in the making

[colt2c00]

Totally understand the 4 link not serving a purpose after the first 60 feet, but having more options to adjust things to get traction and prevent wheel hop/spin will be nice. Previously I found it hard to get past the 1.7 in the 60 foot as I was either fighting wheel hop or spinning, I am sure in that case being a standard and not wanting to slip the clutch much probably didn't help the situation.

The stiffening of the chassis vertically should come in 6 months or so when its winter, just doing what I can for now.

[EL.95MAX]

wow nicccccc:shock:

[colt2c00]

Its been a while since I updated this. I did get it on the road this summer, late in the season but it was on the road. No races for it this year. I got tired of the oil pan that was in there slowly seeping oil out of the flange for the turbo oil return line and a few other random places that I tried to fix, so I drew up and had some stuff cut, now the pan has a better baffle and more capacity, better turbo oil return location, plus no leaks. Was welding it on an old spare block I picked up from the wreckers.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27460&stc=1

First trip out of the shop. Had some magnetic trailer lights hooked up for brake lights.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27461&stc=1

I didn't like the performance of the rad fans that came on that rad from the talon, they didn't cause anything to overheat but once they would come on it would they would pretty much stay on until the vehicle was moving, and this was only in maybe 75-80* weather. They are 12" fans, but they just didn't move much air. Comparing them to the SPAL fans I replaced them with, the SPAL weight is considerably more but at least they flow lots of air now. (SPAL fans on the bottom)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27462&stc=1

Hooked up and ready for the dyno. I wanted to leave the box off for the dyno just so the oil coolers would at least have some air flow. The oil temps were good while on the dyno, so the next test is when the box is on and driving in town I suppose. I had an injector fail a few weeks before the dyno so I had the shop install a set of 1700s in it as thats what they suggested to match the turbo capabilities. It made just under 350 hp and 325 ft/lbs at 4500 rpm at wastegate pressure (14 psi). Need to finish hooking up the boost control solenoid then start turning up the boost.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27463&stc=1

Then in the following week after the dyno the headgasket started to leak. In hindsight, I should have probably pulled the head off and checked it. Turns out the previous person who built the engine used a straight up copper gasket and didn't cut the grooves in the block for the wire, so it was pretty easy for it to leak. Two studs were also not installed properly I think, one was super tight and the other not at all, none of them had washers under the nuts. Oh well, nothing damaged other than the gasket.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27464&stc=1

I just finished putting the new mls headgasket on today and setting the timing again. Did a 3d scan of the lower timing cover because the portion of mine that indicates the timing is damaged. I want to try and draw something up and print it to indicate timing better if this one ever totally fails. I haven't tried printing anything that is capable of that kind of heat yet but its something to look at in the future.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27465&stc=1

In the next few weeks, get a rad cap installed on the rad, wire up the can bus expander and fuel sending unit, get the box bolted down (its currently sitting on blocks on the frame).

[colt2c00]

I put the new head gasket on it last fall then started tearing into the inside of the truck to build the roll cage. 6 point cage with removable door bars, most of it tig welded. Did the tig because its easier to weld upside down in some spots and can get into smaller/tighter areas. I couldn't move the b-pillar hoop further up unless it came forward at the same time. Because of this I had to notch into the window frame which I was hoping to avoid but it all worked out and fits.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27895&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27896&stc=1
I did fill in all those holes in the box with the original pieces. The extra ones on the drivers side are from the previous owner trying to locate the fuel pump when it was changed... The black box in the front of the box is the new power steering reservoir. Just below that box is an electric power steering pump from a mini-cooper. Currently its wired up to a solid state relay, but nothing triggers it yet. Was hoping to have the ecm control it to automatically turn it on/off but haven't got that far yet. All the lines are hooked up.

Because of the cage I relocated the HVAC blower. Drew up this piece and 3D printed it. Blower resistor is mounted in it still. Pretty much the only time this will be used late in the evenings in the early spring/late fall. This locates it just behind the glovebox on the left side.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27897&stc=1

Made an aluminum plate and mounted it below the dash, it contains the fuse panel, terminal strips, extra relays and the MPI relay is mounted on the back side. I have cleaned up the wires a bit since this picture, but it still needs more attention.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27899&stc=1

After doing the cage and cylinder head the truck didn't want to start last week. 2 problems were found. The starter wouldn't even attempt to move if the voltage to it was much below 9 volts while attempting to crank. During cranking I still had 11 at the battery but less than 9 on the small wire feeding the starter. So I just wired in a new relay instead of tearing into the harness to find a possible bad connection or relay, I know its not ideal, but left the old wire abandoned in place. The other problem found was that the power transistor unit had failed. Open circuit with power applied and 1.1M ohms with 1.5 volts across the transistors. The manual says it should be closed when power is applied not open... and the 1.1M ohms is probably way too much. So I swapped over to a coil on plug setup and made a mounting plate for them. They are Denso coils from a Toyota Echo haha, they fit, can be wired directly to the ECM and I did find the dwell settings online for them. Added 2 wires for the 2 extra coils and updated the settings in the ECM to drive 4 coils directly and not 2 in wasted spark mode.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27900&stc=1

Took the truck out for a drive today for about an hour. Need to adjust the front shocks, there is currently 0 dampening on them and the truck kind of floats around. Also, I have a small coolant and oil leak on the front lower section of the engine. All waterpump hoses and connections are dry, same with oil cooler fittings. Oil pressure regulator is wet, same with bottom front area of engine. Guessing the coolant is from the waterpump to block gasket and oil is either from pressure regulator spring housing, or front main seal... So the truck went back on jackstands a few hours ago and needs some disassembly to further inspect.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27901&stc=1

[colt2c00]

So I fixed the major oil leak, it was coming from the one balance shaft delete that was done on the motor. It still leaks a bit from the pan, but I plan on making a different one eventually. I put heavier springs in the rear so it had more usable suspension, at least now a full tank of fuel wont make it sit noticeably lower. I do want to drop down the lower shock mount an inch or so to level it out some as I think it still sits high.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=28449&stc=1

A few weeks ago I changed out the alternator. I haven't been driving it much this summer because after about 10 minutes of driving the stock alternator would not be able to keep up and the voltage would be around 12.6 volts with the headlights unplugged and power steering pump turned off. So now it has a Saturn alternator on it, made a bracket to attach it to the drivers side of the engine. Now it maintains 14.0 volts with the headlights, 4 fans, power steering pump and fuel pump on at idle in gear. Its great now.

I found that the A shift solenoid was failed (leaking) and it was preventing it from going into first gear but would go into fourth. This I am sure was an issue since the start because now that the solenoid is changed out the truck actually is half decent from a dead stop, plus the trans temps usually stay below 210* now.

Not much else to add yet, going to try and get some videos of it here soon.