mightymouse
11-15-2015, 08:14 PM
I have a 88 mighty max bought it a few months ago. It was my daily driver until something happened this week, a hose clamp broke on the bottom of the radiator. I was running about 60mph down the highway so this resulted in dumping my antifreeze everywhere. I pulled over as soon as my heat got cold I knew something was up. Although I fear it wasn't fast enough. more on that later.
The truck is a 2.0L SOHC seems very original. The odometer is way past 200,000 so I'm unsure if the motor is original or rebuilt. I was already planning to rebuild this engine but not so soon. I got a couple oil leaks. Front seal or oil pan around front of the crankshaft, the oil gets slung everywhere. The oil pan is also leaking on one side. The motor has the factory intake and carburetor. The bad is the carburetor is messed up and is only running one barrel. Anything over half throttle makes it run rich and almost choke out. It was like this when I bought it. Since then i figured it was the vacuum operated valve on the back on the carb next to the firewall. I cant find the valve anywhere and I have lost interest in the factory carb anyway. So Since I blew my head gasket I figured might as well swap carb and intake to weber. Then I thought well lets make life easy this motor has X number of miles on it with some oil leaks a junk carb and a head gasket. Lets just pull it out fix everything and forget about it and roll on down the highway.
The carb running way rich on 1 barrel is not only a problem as I cant get in a hurry or pull out in traffic. Im also only netting 17.6 miles to the gal was my highest. I kinda bought this truck to save gas so this has got to be fixed. The truck still has the evap can and the metal box on the driver side fender. The previous owner has done some sort of hack job with the egr tube, it's cut in two and smashed shut. In short I live in a none emission area for vehicles older then 95 or 96 something like that. I wanna delete everything that isn't needed on the motor. So it looks clean and more room under the hood.
I started pulling the motor out of my truck today. Once I got to the disconnecting vacuum lines part I just left it alone until I can figure out what all I can throw in the trash since I'm going weber. Another thing I want to know about is what are my options on cylinder heads with the weber and weber intake. For instance if my cylinder head is cracked is it to much to ask for a head swap that makes good power and works with the weber intake. It also needs to not break the bank and get good gas mileage. haha :P the truck is mainly for gas mileage anyway not a hot rod. Is 30mpg to out of the park for a weber swapped 2.0L that's 5 speed manual? Some say they run on hopes and dreams anyway others tell me out of a carb no way. Just in search of the best way to spend my money.
The weber swap what kit do I need? I see many different ones on ebay. Also I read on other post about getting a new fuel pump and everything. I don't really want to drop my gas tank since I don't have a lift at home. I was checking to see if a regulator would be good enough and not hurt my fuel mileage as long as the weber was tuned properly after install.
Also once I figure out if my head is any good at the machine shop, after I figure out about the vacuum lines, I would like to know what head gasket brand should I buy just a Fel pro or something else? Also where should i buy a rebuild kit? I already checked northern auto parts (that's where i get my Chevy rebuild kits). I plan on taking the block to the machine shop and get it checked as well to see if it needs bored.
Anyway to recap I need info on emission delete for weber swap. What weber to buy. Where to get a rebuild kit and what heads work on the 2.0L in my 88 and if they are worth the extra money 2 swap.
Thx everyone for the help in advance Im new to a mm and this website.
14978
The truck is a 2.0L SOHC seems very original. The odometer is way past 200,000 so I'm unsure if the motor is original or rebuilt. I was already planning to rebuild this engine but not so soon. I got a couple oil leaks. Front seal or oil pan around front of the crankshaft, the oil gets slung everywhere. The oil pan is also leaking on one side. The motor has the factory intake and carburetor. The bad is the carburetor is messed up and is only running one barrel. Anything over half throttle makes it run rich and almost choke out. It was like this when I bought it. Since then i figured it was the vacuum operated valve on the back on the carb next to the firewall. I cant find the valve anywhere and I have lost interest in the factory carb anyway. So Since I blew my head gasket I figured might as well swap carb and intake to weber. Then I thought well lets make life easy this motor has X number of miles on it with some oil leaks a junk carb and a head gasket. Lets just pull it out fix everything and forget about it and roll on down the highway.
The carb running way rich on 1 barrel is not only a problem as I cant get in a hurry or pull out in traffic. Im also only netting 17.6 miles to the gal was my highest. I kinda bought this truck to save gas so this has got to be fixed. The truck still has the evap can and the metal box on the driver side fender. The previous owner has done some sort of hack job with the egr tube, it's cut in two and smashed shut. In short I live in a none emission area for vehicles older then 95 or 96 something like that. I wanna delete everything that isn't needed on the motor. So it looks clean and more room under the hood.
I started pulling the motor out of my truck today. Once I got to the disconnecting vacuum lines part I just left it alone until I can figure out what all I can throw in the trash since I'm going weber. Another thing I want to know about is what are my options on cylinder heads with the weber and weber intake. For instance if my cylinder head is cracked is it to much to ask for a head swap that makes good power and works with the weber intake. It also needs to not break the bank and get good gas mileage. haha :P the truck is mainly for gas mileage anyway not a hot rod. Is 30mpg to out of the park for a weber swapped 2.0L that's 5 speed manual? Some say they run on hopes and dreams anyway others tell me out of a carb no way. Just in search of the best way to spend my money.
The weber swap what kit do I need? I see many different ones on ebay. Also I read on other post about getting a new fuel pump and everything. I don't really want to drop my gas tank since I don't have a lift at home. I was checking to see if a regulator would be good enough and not hurt my fuel mileage as long as the weber was tuned properly after install.
Also once I figure out if my head is any good at the machine shop, after I figure out about the vacuum lines, I would like to know what head gasket brand should I buy just a Fel pro or something else? Also where should i buy a rebuild kit? I already checked northern auto parts (that's where i get my Chevy rebuild kits). I plan on taking the block to the machine shop and get it checked as well to see if it needs bored.
Anyway to recap I need info on emission delete for weber swap. What weber to buy. Where to get a rebuild kit and what heads work on the 2.0L in my 88 and if they are worth the extra money 2 swap.
Thx everyone for the help in advance Im new to a mm and this website.
14978