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Thread: Questions about gaskets, vacuum line deletes, weber carbs, FPRs for 88 mm

  1. #1

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    Post Questions about gaskets, vacuum line deletes, weber carbs, FPRs for 88 mm

    I have a 88 mighty max bought it a few months ago. It was my daily driver until something happened this week, a hose clamp broke on the bottom of the radiator. I was running about 60mph down the highway so this resulted in dumping my antifreeze everywhere. I pulled over as soon as my heat got cold I knew something was up. Although I fear it wasn't fast enough. more on that later.

    The truck is a 2.0L SOHC seems very original. The odometer is way past 200,000 so I'm unsure if the motor is original or rebuilt. I was already planning to rebuild this engine but not so soon. I got a couple oil leaks. Front seal or oil pan around front of the crankshaft, the oil gets slung everywhere. The oil pan is also leaking on one side. The motor has the factory intake and carburetor. The bad is the carburetor is messed up and is only running one barrel. Anything over half throttle makes it run rich and almost choke out. It was like this when I bought it. Since then i figured it was the vacuum operated valve on the back on the carb next to the firewall. I cant find the valve anywhere and I have lost interest in the factory carb anyway. So Since I blew my head gasket I figured might as well swap carb and intake to weber. Then I thought well lets make life easy this motor has X number of miles on it with some oil leaks a junk carb and a head gasket. Lets just pull it out fix everything and forget about it and roll on down the highway.

    The carb running way rich on 1 barrel is not only a problem as I cant get in a hurry or pull out in traffic. Im also only netting 17.6 miles to the gal was my highest. I kinda bought this truck to save gas so this has got to be fixed. The truck still has the evap can and the metal box on the driver side fender. The previous owner has done some sort of hack job with the egr tube, it's cut in two and smashed shut. In short I live in a none emission area for vehicles older then 95 or 96 something like that. I wanna delete everything that isn't needed on the motor. So it looks clean and more room under the hood.

    I started pulling the motor out of my truck today. Once I got to the disconnecting vacuum lines part I just left it alone until I can figure out what all I can throw in the trash since I'm going weber. Another thing I want to know about is what are my options on cylinder heads with the weber and weber intake. For instance if my cylinder head is cracked is it to much to ask for a head swap that makes good power and works with the weber intake. It also needs to not break the bank and get good gas mileage. haha the truck is mainly for gas mileage anyway not a hot rod. Is 30mpg to out of the park for a weber swapped 2.0L that's 5 speed manual? Some say they run on hopes and dreams anyway others tell me out of a carb no way. Just in search of the best way to spend my money.

    The weber swap what kit do I need? I see many different ones on ebay. Also I read on other post about getting a new fuel pump and everything. I don't really want to drop my gas tank since I don't have a lift at home. I was checking to see if a regulator would be good enough and not hurt my fuel mileage as long as the weber was tuned properly after install.

    Also once I figure out if my head is any good at the machine shop, after I figure out about the vacuum lines, I would like to know what head gasket brand should I buy just a Fel pro or something else? Also where should i buy a rebuild kit? I already checked northern auto parts (that's where i get my Chevy rebuild kits). I plan on taking the block to the machine shop and get it checked as well to see if it needs bored.

    Anyway to recap I need info on emission delete for weber swap. What weber to buy. Where to get a rebuild kit and what heads work on the 2.0L in my 88 and if they are worth the extra money 2 swap.

    Thx everyone for the help in advance Im new to a mm and this website.
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  2. #2

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    Hi mightymouse, welcome to MR50. All the questions you are asking lead down well travelled roads. You will be looking at a 32/36 DGAV Weber and the Redline manifold adapter plate (they also need to be pressure regulated to work - either a low psi fuel pump or a regulator valve in the fuel line). There is a dedicated thread on the Weber conversion and what to buy (and what NOT to buy) and where to get it from. If you're trashing the EGR set up try to get your hands on a set of Pacesetter style headers (all the headers are basically the same design). They will work well with the Weber install. I get that you're a noob to the site but the search option is your new buddy - look up some of the specifics you're researching and check out members' build threads as there is a stack of really good info and ideas in them. The G63B engine is a forgiving lump to work on and is pretty robust so hopefully it will be 95% salvageable from the roadside overheat. Good luck and keep us up to date with your progress

  3. #3

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    *as for the 30mpg from the Weber install you should get close (28 maybe?) but due to the fact you'll be having way too much fun driving it with the extra HP I doubt you'll be getting that. You can go twin cam but there are a number of mods you'll need to perform to make it work as they're FWD and the cooling system needs re-routing, the CAS for the electronic ignition will more than likely foul the firewall and you'll need a custom exhaust manifold. Obviously you will need all the ancillary parts and wiring loom etc for a successful transplant.

    **Hyundai and Kia both make interchangeable twin cam heads that will suit the G63B (just a few more reasons to love these trucks)

  4. #4



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    one point on the Pacesetter headers - all the available headers are for even port 2.6s - the 2.0 g63b in the US is a paired port head design.
    Pennyman1
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  5. #5

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    Thx for the feedback and quick responses. I will do some searching on the webers and hopefully have time tomorrow to tear into the truck a little more, after work that is. I will keep yall posted as it comes along.

  6. #6

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    I took the head to the machine shop today. The news was like taking a arrow to the knee. It is cracked between the valves on cylinder #3. In search of another head if anyone has one for somewhat cheap or where to buy one that would be a big help. Going to pull a part next weekend. These trucks seem rare around here. I got some pictures from the tear down if anyone is interested to see.

  7. #7

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  8. #8



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    only #3 cylinder? That is not that bad - most heads usually have cracks on all the cylinders. Depending on the depth, it may be repairable. There are new heads available - look on Ebay for CNS or Odessa.
    Pennyman1
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    only #3 cylinder? That is not that bad - most heads usually have cracks on all the cylinders. Depending on the depth, it may be repairable. There are new heads available - look on Ebay for CNS or Odessa.
    Yeah, these heads have a reputation for cracking but it's usually the earlier heads that do it. A competent head recon shop should be able to fix that. An acid test on what kind of machine shop you're dealing with will be if the head is warped. If they recommend milling it to fix the problem, take it somewhere else. Refacing a warped head leads to all kinds of problems - different sized combustion chambers, the cam being bound up in the cam journal. Sorry to hear you've found out your head is cracked. Don't forget these heads are used on a number of different vehicles so you have options.

  10. #10

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    Still looking for a head. What other vehicles can I get this same head from? I went 3 or 4 places this weekend and only found 3 mighty max trucks in total. 2 of them being 2.4L fuel injected trucks. The other was a 2.0 truck but the motor had already been grabbed. In terms of the old head local machine shop told me it cant be fixed that I need another head. Take it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion? I got 2 more local places to check for a head. If i don't find one a new one at the parts stores are 318 cheapest at advance and napa being close to 500. Not really wanting to do that but that being last resort I reckon.

  11. #11

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    Time to think outside the box mightymouse. These engines were used in SOHC Galants, L300's and a few other Mitsubishis (you may even be able to use a head off a G62B 1.8). This should open up your options. Make sure they are 8 valve engines and you'll be set like jello

  12. #12

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    Hey everyone so I got a head from a salvage yard that was local. It turned out to not be any good...sigh....At least I am getting my money back though. I feel as if I'm looking for a unicorn head. I tired to find some solid answers on this before asking but no luck. I was wanting to know if a 2.4L head off say a 90s model efi truck would work? The head gasket,intake gasket and valve cover is the same so wouldnt it work as long as the timing belt works and the valve don't hit the pistons you know. If the 2.4 head would work I could just use the 2.0 carb intake with weber correct? thx in advance.I might get this truck back together one day. :p

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