View Full Version : start, died, no re-start after new head gasket
Please any help needed.
Put in new head gasket, put all pieces back together, new oil cap, new coolant cap, new plugs gapped proper.
First attempt at cranking without plugs to prep fuel/whatever didn't work, wire was unhooked from starter. Hooked up wire and continued.
Followed the instructions for turning over w/out spark plugs in until oil light went off on dash.
Then put in plugs & started her up.
No foot on gas, left her in park, e-brake still on, no weird lights on dash.
She started right up & sounded good.
After about 20 seconds or so the idle increased then started to settle back down.
Still no weird lights on dash.
Some soot out of the tailpipe as expected.
After about 45-60 second she shut herself down. No sudden stop, no weird noises, just died.
Tried to restart her but only cranked over, no start.
Ran to the tailpipe to smell for anything - no smells.
Ran around to open hood, no smells.
Opened coolant, still pure green.
Opened oil cap --- no oil on oil cap???
F*ck. Ok so where's the oil pressure? I have no idea about this. Is that normal on a freshly cleaned header put in and only 45-60 seconds of running? Doubt it, but what does it mean?
Checked oil level, at the low mark but expected lowish because I didn't want to over-fill. Oil dirty but not instantly black, smelled like coconut, so I smelled the oil still in the new oil container from the store & that smelled like coconut, too. Okeedokes.
Felt all around all the pieces & parts & wires under the hood and nothing felt hot or smelled funny.
I am at a complete loss.
Don't want to continue trying to crank (she DOES crank strong) because I don't know what's going on with no oil on the cap & don't want to risk her seizing.
What would you do? Pull the oil pan or pull the valve cover to look? Look for what? Check something else?
No weird lights on the dash
No weird smells
Nothing feels hot
Nothing sounded odd
She just won't restart after shutting herself down.
I went to youtube to listen to a seized engine (which apparently they just make a loud clunk) to make sure it doesn't sound like cranking w/no start, lol. I'm very worried. Worked so hard, & she sounded so nice for that 45-60 seconds, please help?
ragragtimetime
03-23-2015, 02:54 AM
"she sounded so nice for that 45-60 seconds" makes me think it ran whatever fuel was in the carburetor then starved for fuel...I would check fuel pump, lines kinked, filter, etc...first.:shrug:
LSR Mike
03-23-2015, 05:39 AM
3 things for the engine to run...Air, Fuel, Fire...I'm betting on Fuel... the idle increased...going lean running out of gas... check the spark while your at it (fire).
BradMph
03-23-2015, 12:36 PM
Get a oil pressure gauge installed. so you can see for sure if pressure is present. Sounds like a fuel issue so far, when an engine stops on a seize you will usually hear like a fan belt screech just before it locks the engine. Though at idle, 40-50 seconds is a little too fast to seize a motor and you'll usually get some heat evidence or smell. Just doing a head gasket also shouldn't cause an oil pump to stop working. Sounds like fuel cut off. Could pour a little fuel in carb and see if it runs for 40-50 seconds again. If not, spark would be next. Don't panic, that won't help. Were here...
LOL she said "F*ck" she is one of the guys now! :grin:
pennyman1
03-23-2015, 05:36 PM
Check your fuel pump arm - if its on the wrong side of the cam it won't pump and you will run out of fuel. It goes under the cam - it may fight you if the lobe is in the down position.
"she sounded so nice for that 45-60 seconds" makes me think it ran whatever fuel was in the carburetor then starved for fuel...I would check fuel pump, lines kinked, filter, etc...first.:shrug:
Yes! I tried to go outside and check the hoses that run off/to the fuel pump today but the stupid weather was hailing and blowing and cold as heck, so I thought okay ... this is not going to work right now. Then my mom called and of course she talked for an hour, which is FINE but it was the hour before the sun went away and the thunder clouds came back -- freezing & frustrated do not mix well!!! I'm betting on kinky more than on a hose not connected or leaking because there was no fuel smell, but I couldn't SEE under the carb when I put it all back together so for sure something could be kinked down there! I'll use a mirror and a flashlight too just to be perfectly positive :)
3 things for the engine to run...Air, Fuel, Fire...I'm betting on Fuel... the idle increased...going lean running out of gas... check the spark while your at it (fire).
Yeah, I'm thinking that too now that I've read so much so far, that or the spark... so I'm going to pull all 4 plugs too and make sure they're not covered in anything. If nothing else that'll let me know I didn't screw up TOO bad. I kept thinking that, too, air, fuel, fire, over & over, come on girl, you know this, it's something SIMPLE, and still reading the book and trying to be logical even without the book, but frustrated because it was JUST running.
Thinking maybe instead of just focusing on what makes a no-start situation, what makes a stall AND a no-start, what's the common denominator. Blown fuse or no fuel. Unlikely it suddenly stopped getting air, just sitting idling, my foot wasn't even on the gas at all, so the air to fuel ratio shouldn't have had the opportunity to go out of whack. Maybe air in the fuel line somewhere? Hm, air, maybe a vacuum line? if it was electronic maybe a fuse blew? but for what?
Going through the list of possibilities & ran outside to start checking for kinks & connections but the weather put me back inside to think some more about how to go about it without tearing more things apart than needed.
Get a oil pressure gauge installed. so you can see for sure if pressure is present. Sounds like a fuel issue so far, when an engine stops on a seize you will usually hear like a fan belt screech just before it locks the engine. Though at idle, 40-50 seconds is a little too fast to seize a motor and you'll usually get some heat evidence or smell. Just doing a head gasket also shouldn't cause an oil pump to stop working. Sounds like fuel cut off. Could pour a little fuel in carb and see if it runs for 40-50 seconds again. If not, spark would be next. Don't panic, that won't help. Were here...
LOL she said "F*ck" she is one of the guys now! :grin:
OH hardy har har Mister Brad lol. Yeah I was cussin' up a darn storm, couldn't believe it!!! And then the BF is saying maybe it's the battery, where's the charger? I'm so mad at that point I"m throwing stuff out of the back of the shed, stuff that should be ON the patio, but it's winter, I hate winter anyway. BBQs belong on the patio, not in the darn shed in my way of the shelves. So genius am I that I must have lost my glasses somewhere in the shed rage incident and I've been using a magnifying glass since yesterday afternoon. Ugh. Battery was FINE anyway. Figures. Frankly I haven't been this frustratingly mad for years!!!
YES I want an oil pressure gauge, I want all the gauges in the world that I can figure out to be installed, seriously. Oil pressure, tach, every temp gauge possible, everything. Drives me batty when a vehicle makes me guess every darn thing. Oh it's running = must be fine (not!) My mom's truck is like this one, too, in that it doesn't have any dang good gauges, just water temp, fuel, and speed. Oh and some idiot lights that are basically useless because there's no idiot light to say when a lightbulb is blown out. Ridiculous.
Pouring some fuel in the carb is a great idea - why didn't I think of that? Was too busy trying to learn where all the hoses go and which directions the fuel travels from the tank to the engine. Okeedokes. But FIRST I need to check what pennyman said because yes, I can be just that dumb. w00h00 /sarcasm
Check your fuel pump arm - if its on the wrong side of the cam it won't pump and you will run out of fuel. It goes under the cam - it may fight you if the lobe is in the down position.
I'm so suspicious it's wrong... I couldn't get it to go in, about 10 minutes before patience wore out & had the BF figure out how to twist it in there, And I have NO PIC!!! I am feeling so dumb, I just know I was trying to put it on the top, I don't know why just a very bad feeling. I didn't even think about takin pics on the putting back together steps. I know I was trying to get it to go on the top of the cam, I just know it. Unsure where the BF put it in though or how... I can ask him but he'll give a punt answer anyway probably :( I'll HAVE To pull the valve cover off to be sure. I can't thank you enough for mentioning this, seriously tons bunches and loads, thank you.
Really appreciate the comments here because it IS something basic but I'm so frustrated thinking of all the possibilities of what I touched & what could be messed up.
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Okay so that over the cam under the cam thing really got me mad at myself in ways I cannot explain. I make mistakes same as everyone else but to not even think about that arm going on/in more than one way when I was putting it back together makes me so frustrated with myself.
Why didn't I go look at pics to be sure, that arm or rod or spring thing whatever it's called on the fuel pump was giving me SUCH a hard time, I don't like giving up but know I shouldn't pry on stuff even when I really really really want to. So I had to ask the BF for help because he doesn't pry (he stabs lol but that's a different story) and I didn't want to risk breakin stuff as I was so close to getting it all back together.
Pennyman reminding me of the hard reality that I'm really blonde on the inside made me go look for pics. And so now I'm wondering which way the BF put it on, and which way it's supposed to be... zoom in on the pics shows the arm WAS on top of the camshaft... am I being ditzy on what things are called again? I do do that, more often with age lol, but seriously either way now I'll have to go see which way it's actually been installed.
The pics are from when I was taking everything apart... I didn't know the arm could go on top of or under. I bet the BF didn't know either, I wonder if it would actually FIT under, as if it would maybe be impossible for the BF to do it wrong? Maybe it's just wishful thinking :(
If it was installed the wrong way - would it make a bad noise? Or feel warm on the top of the fuel pump. I really did feel every thing possible under that hood when it shut itself off, desperate to find out why & if any part at all over heated, and that fuel pump top was not warm. I don't even know if 45-60 seconds of running would make it warm even if it DID overheat?
*exhales* okeedokes, no panicking. I'll check everything mentioned here in this thread post as soon as I possibly can. I will absolutely take pics & post what I find. I'd be so lost without you guys, or at least tearing every darn thing apart unnecessarily out of desperation.
Big big hugs & much much thanks!!!!!!!!
Redneckmoparman
03-24-2015, 02:09 AM
hmmmm could be that its installed wrong, i would wonder if you CAREFULLY poured fuel down the bowl vent to refill the bowl if it would then run. If it does, then the fuel pump is not working. Or just spray some carb cleaner into the engine and see if it starts.
Andy 2
03-24-2015, 03:26 AM
I thought the fuel pump lever went on top of the cam on the 2.6....Anyhow, are the fuel pump lines all hooked up properly?
ragragtimetime
03-24-2015, 03:39 AM
I thought the fuel pump lever went on top of the cam on the 2.6....Anyhow, are the fuel pump lines all hooked up properly?
correct:thumbup:on a g54b the fuel pump lever does go on top of camshaft...you can even see it on top in the middle pic. (on a g63b the fuel pump push rod is slightly below the camshaft)
Searched all hoses for connections & kinks, nothing stood out as being a problem.
Then I pulled the plugs, #4 looks like it might be a little tiny barely may be wet but not much unsure if it came out that way or I tilted it around as I wasn't paying attention, they all look new still.
Then I pulled the valve cover off to see how the fuel pump is installed...
my damn oil is milky if I put my finger and rub the bottom of the head where the camshaft sits and pull out my finger its mliky. If I put my finger in the oil and swirl it around slowly you can see the differences in the oil, like it's not all f'd up it's swirly with good/bad.
I screwed something up bigtime. Maybe I missed a crack.
Is there a slim chance at all that even though I drained the old oil and changed the filter in the hg steps, that contaminated oil could have been stored in the system anywhere waiting to be mixed with the new oil? damn how desperate does that question sound?!
Yeah so anyway I undid the fuel pump to see if the arm still moves freely and yeah it sure does. Started to put it back in after I couldn't get it ALL The way out with the wind & pine needles flying around didn't want the head to get contaminated so I closed the hood, brought in the tools & here I sit.
I already had called the local parts place for a new fuel pump just in case since they have a day delay for non-stock items & I wanted to get the truck running today. Yeah, that worked out great, too.
Pics as promised (rain delay):
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I ain't touchin her anymore tonight, she's got me madder than ever now I may hate her... a lot. FFS I SAVED her from some guy runnin her barely bandaided together & this is what I get for tryin' so hard. UGH! Now I know this trucks a damn girl.
camoit
03-24-2015, 05:07 PM
If it already had water in the oil it's just left over. Does it kick if you put some gas down the carb? Thats the first thing. Next is valve adjustments
Got the old fuel pump disconnected, got the new one in-hand, will get gas in the carb asap. Should have done that first but worried the arm wasn't right on the fuel pump, so took off the valve cover to look... and then ^above.
Andy 2
03-24-2015, 08:23 PM
Depending on how old that fuel pump is, the diaphragm may not have survived the R&R. I know that without that plastic spacer those pumps will fail prematurely as well.
Yeah I'm seriously guessing the fuel pump I took off is the original as in been on the truck since 1984... the looks of it, along with other things, yeah, ancient.
But my fault 100% I was not careful with it when it wouldn't go in, got to the edge of prying & though I didn't, I wasn't careful either.
If ANYTHING got messed up in this whole hg process, it was that. Okay so fine, I'll replace it. It DOES have the plastic spacer thing still, I did use it, I did permatex rtv it, I didn't mess it up.
But when I saw that oil... *sighs* I bought a container of some sort of engine flush, probably diesel something or another when I picked up the fuel pump, don't care at the moment was just frustrated enough & thinking, OK so how many oil changes is it going to take to know if I completely have to re-do the headgasket or what? I'm sure I"m not the only one, the first or the last, it's just beyond all to find oil like that AFTER it's been all put back together.
100% chance of rain & cold tomorrow (of course), but Thursday & Friday look freakin awesome weather temp wise. I've already thought about going out there twice tonight just to get it over with already. May try to ignore the rain & do it tomorrow, IDK.
I'd probably be selling the damn truck as-is if it wasn't for you guys. So sad to see the oil, so sad. I could have been working on my damn car all this time & probably got that broken bolt out by now instead of seeing bad oil. So thanks & will update!!!
edit* I mean I didn't mess up the spacer /insulator thing, I think I *DID* mess up the fuel pump itself.
(need to check my dang debit card & see how fast I can donate for editing rofl,besides it's the right thing to do!!!)
Andy 2
03-25-2015, 05:43 AM
As I mentioned before, when the engine is at TDC with Cylinder #1 On the compression/firing stroke, the pump is easiest to put in. If you have the valve cover off, you can make sure it's on the firing stroke by wiggling the rocker arms on #1 cylinder. If both rockers aren't firm and hard to move then #1 is on the exhaust/intake stroke and you'll need to turn the crank all the way around again to TDC. Another way to do this would be to remove all the spark plugs except for #1 and when you feel the compression as the timing mark comes to TDC you know you're on the right stroke. Even a brand new pump can be damaged if the lever is forced too far.
As for the oil, it could have been a bit of contaminated oil that the new oil rinsed out of the valve cover or got sucked in from the breather hose.
I would double check the torque on the head bolts and make sure all the bolts are torqued to 69 ft lbs before starting it again. I'd want to be sure that coolant isn't seeping into any oil passages because of uneven torquing. Use a reliable torque wrench. Don't install the valve cover permanently yet as the head bolts need to be torqued again when the engine gets hot. A few minutes after the temperature gauge reaches it's normal operating temp, pop the valve cover and torque the bolts again in the correct sequence. Final torque is 75 ft lbs with the engine hot. These numbers come from the Haynes manual and they worked for me.
As I mentioned before, when the engine is at TDC with Cylinder #1 On the compression/firing stroke, the pump is easiest to put in. If you have the valve cover off, you can make sure it's on the firing stroke by wiggling the rocker arms on #1 cylinder. If both rockers aren't firm and hard to move then #1 is on the exhaust/intake stroke and you'll need to turn the crank all the way around again to TDC. Another way to do this would be to remove all the spark plugs except for #1 and when you feel the compression as the timing mark comes to TDC you know you're on the right stroke. Even a brand new pump can be damaged if the lever is forced too far.
As for the oil, it could have been a bit of contaminated oil that the new oil rinsed out of the valve cover or got sucked in from the breather hose.
I would double check the torque on the head bolts and make sure all the bolts are torqued to 69 ft lbs before starting it again. I'd want to be sure that coolant isn't seeping into any oil passages because of uneven torquing. Use a reliable torque wrench. Don't install the valve cover permanently yet as the head bolts need to be torqued again when the engine gets hot. A few minutes after the temperature gauge reaches it's normal operating temp, pop the valve cover and torque the bolts again in the correct sequence. Final torque is 75 ft lbs with the engine hot. These numbers come from the Haynes manual and they worked for me.
Ok first off, thank you so much for the new info and the reminders, too! I did go out today and got started but then the rain and I don't trust the drops to not go into the engine/elsewhere. So quit again. I am so close to TDC, about 7 or 8 chain links off I think, will make sure it's at tdc before the new pump goes on.
It's so frustrating with the carburetor in the way, the studs off the head really don't need to be that long :( But I'm being extra careful and patient.
Jeez yeah I was so dumb sealing up the valve cover for the next 50 years when I put it back on. Totally forgetting about the re-torque so THANK YOU for mentioning that. I was kicking myself yesterday for having to take the valve cover off.
I am 100% positive all the head bolts are currently torqued down exactly as they should be at 69. Followed the book exactly doing them all to 34 ft pounds first, then 69. (I think it was 34, but whatever that first torque stage is in the Haynes Manual before the 69). They have been double checked, but can check again, lol. I don't mind rechecking anything ever! Hm, I wonder if it's best to set the torque wrench at say, 68 for the triple check, doesn't it make it tighter every time it clicks? Wouldn't want to accidentally have the bolts be tightened down to 72 ft. lbs with all this checking I'm doing.
Oh and wanted to mention just in case it matters, yesterday when I took the hose off the old fuel pump that is supposed to feed gas in, no gas came out of the hose (or the fuel pump) when it came off. thought it was weird, but maybe normal, unsure.
So I'm double checking every hose and looking around and at the carb thinking "you're next" because it's filthy.
I start touching the throttle cable & playing with the linkages & watching the flap, and it's not opening, I'm wondering, HMM, why. So I get into the truck & step on the pedal while peeking through to under the hood and the flap is only barely moving. I readjust the little screw on top of the valve cover & think oh, that's better. But then
I push all the way down on the gas pedal and the flap is oh maybe almost 1/2 open & say jeez, "well there's your problem" in my best comedian voice. I come back inside to stare at http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Factory_Manual/14_FUEL_SYSTEM.pdf a little bit more, (it's been great reading material in between the rain drops) Page 21, section 14-20 (2) "make sure that the engine control operates smoothly, and that the throttle valve opens completely when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed". Well glad I dinked around touching things while double checking hoses & such. It's barely moving at all :(
BradMph
03-25-2015, 06:29 PM
Uhhh the flap isn't opening because the choke is engage on your cold engine. It will open fully when it warms up.
Fuel pump is connected correctly right. Hoses going to the in/out/return or depending on how many hose you have. There is no pump in the tank, so the fuel pump on the head is the only one. Be sure the push rod is in correctly. It's a PIA to install, but if you turn the motor a little it will take tension off and make it easier. Sounds like your very close to completion soon as you solve the fuel starving problem. Don't get too deep into the search, because it worked before you started and you haven't done enough to make the fuel stop. You apparently have made a change in something putting it back together, though not a serious change just a forgetful Oooops probably. Stick with the fuel issue and make sure there is fuel in the tank too, lol. Check those fuel lines going to the pump to be sure you put the back on pump correctly and that the pump rod is doing what it is suppose to do.
Oh and the torque doesn't get tighter if you keep clicking it. It is set to not get tighter, that what the whole design of a torque wrench is about. Goes to required amount and releases by use of a spring inside the wrench. After your done using the torque wrench, always remember to release the setting and put the handle back to it's 0 reading so spring doesn't get trained for the torque you used and make the wrench incorrect.
TDC compression stroke the first 2 rockers on the #1 piston of the head are always loose, or in a relaxed position making the valves completely closed on the chamber. Easy way to reassure TDC compression.
Andy 2
03-25-2015, 10:06 PM
If the diaphragm in the pump is torn, the fuel will run back down the fuel line towards the tank. That's almost a sure sign the pump is faulty. When you're ready to fire it up again, open the throttle all the way and pour a bottle cap of fresh gas down the carb. This will give you a quick start and prime the fuel pump. It'll save your starter motor from having to prime it. You might have to do it more than once if your carb's float bowl is empty.
Runs like a champ with gas put right in the carb, BUT still not getting itself fuel on it's own though I'm sure it's just me I'm still being dumb missing something perfectly simple I'm sure, lol!
The only thing left for me to do that I can think of is to put on new hoses, so I got some tonight and will put them on tomorrow. And see.
BradMph
03-26-2015, 09:22 PM
Oh dear, get your truck fixed... After all that work and it is giving you a tease. I'm sure you have gone over every thing you touched and confirmed that it is all ok also.
Maybe just have to get firm with the girl and tell her to start or you will not buy her that leather bra you saw in the auto parts magazine. :lmao:
I can imagine you will be a happy girl when that truck stays running on a start soon.
Take a couple snap shots, maybe someone will spot something that could assit you.
Hang in there....your as persistent as myself.
Andy 2
03-26-2015, 10:36 PM
So the engine runs when you pour gas down its throat but won't stay running. How many times did you try it?
I know the pump is easier to prime if the fuel tank is full. If you're almost empty it'll take longer. You can take the fuel line from the pump to the carb off, pull the ignition coil wire off and crank it over to see if your getting fuel. If you're going to change the lines that would be the time to try that.
I assume that the truck ran fine before all the work was done soooo....if you do have fuel coming from the pump, it could be that a small piece of fuel line or pump diaphragm has gotten into the carb.
She likes me dizzy darn it. On the other hand, I started calling her "her" and "she" instead of "the little truck", so it's definitely a female, no man would be this complicated over anything so damn simple.
Well, I did see some cracks in fuel to carb hoses at the edges/ends, and knew they'd have to be replaced when I was taking them off TWO WEEKS ago, rofl, just didn't want to do anything not 100% urgent until I knew I didn't mess up the head gasket. Any other gasket just not that one, THEN she can have the bra, the panties, the leather, I don't care what it takes!!! Fancy lights & gauges, real wheels & tires, hell, I may even get some paint and bondo / plastic surgery for her to look 18 again. But noooo, she's stubborn.
Found the fuel filter today so that was practically the highlight of my day with her - other than setting personal speed records for taking things off/putting them back on & stepping on the gas to hear a short rev *sighs*. -Tightened the fuel pump nuts at TDC, gas in the carb, no change.
-Loosened the fuel pump nuts maybe they were too tight (can not find the torque for them!!!) at TDC, gas in the carb, no change.
-Valve cover off again, look, touch, check movement in spring while manually cranking w/bolt on crank shaft, all looks good, put back together, no change.
-Pull off all the fuel carrying hoses between every stage and see if any fuel comes out/ was in hose, between each tinkering test. No change.
- fuel filter not clogged, dumped freakin fuel into the hose that comes from the fuel tank to make sure it didn't leak under the truck between the tank & the pump inlet, no freakin leak, no change.
- wiped down everywhere under all hose connections to look for possible fuel leaks even though I didn't smell any fuel, MAYBE leaking from where it goes over the valve cover back to the carb hmm, tightened that clamp, wiped all around it & under it, put it all back together, no change, but wonder where that moisture came from it wouldn't do it again.
No need to mark bolts anymore, easy to tell where they all go. Jeez.
I bought extra fuel hose at the parts store for testing, I may start a fire sooner or later but this problem will be solved. Dang it, I forgot to ask them if they had clear/see-through hose, oh well.
It takes me so long doing things to her alone, and anything I need is another day added waiting for rides to the parts store. My dog finally got so bored waiting on me she went into the house & chewed up half of one of my shoes. My fave shoes of course. Stole it right off the high "safe" spot, too, sneaky puppy. Too tall, almost 5' high reach... dang shame.
If anyone happens to know the torque specs for the fuel pump nuts I'd be much thankful for them. Can't find them in the book ANYWHERE. Like they should be, it's important! Or just 'tight as possible'? no thanks, I've cross threaded things before, it sucks.
(I'm going to feel so dumb when I figure this out lol)
So the engine runs when you pour gas down its throat but won't stay running. How many times did you try it?
I know the pump is easier to prime if the fuel tank is full. If you're almost empty it'll take longer. You can take the fuel line from the pump to the carb off, pull the ignition coil wire off and crank it over to see if your getting fuel. If you're going to change the lines that would be the time to try that.
I assume that the truck ran fine before all the work was done soooo....if you do have fuel coming from the pump, it could be that a small piece of fuel line or pump diaphragm has gotten into the carb.
Yes the engine runs quite nicely with gas down the carb. (she sounds like heaven) Doesn't even bog, stutter, lug, skip, tick, or shake or make any evil noises when I step on the gas. Tried 3 times that way, didn't want to keep cranking and lose the battery just yet, more crank attempts were done with no gas down the carb & didn't start.
Should I keep pouring gas down her throat until she starts acting right? Because I will if I should! I have an extra battery (unsure of the charge on it but can hook it up to the charger :) ) It's a big battery though, from my car, not sure it'll fit in the truck but I bet I could force it. Will do whatever it takes!
The tank gas gauge is showing under 1/2 tank, over 1/4.
Okeedokes, I'm going to try taking the fuel line off, too, now that i have new hoses to play with :) I got an extra long hose specifically just for doing that today, so I can crank her over & watch the end of the hose without asking/waiting for a helper here, Thank you for mentioning it, glad to see I'm thinking good sometimes!
Andy 2
03-28-2015, 12:19 AM
If you have a small plastic bottle with a plastic cap, you can drill a tiny hole in the cap and use it to squirt gas into the carb just before the engine stalls. If you time it just right you can keep the engine running for quite a while. Its hard to drive that way though
If you have a small plastic bottle with a plastic cap, you can drill a tiny hole in the cap and use it to squirt gas into the carb just before the engine stalls. If you time it just right you can keep the engine running for quite a while. Its hard to drive that way though
I like it here :) a lot, lol. Today didn't go as planned, will get to it this weekend
Ahhh new fuel hoses to the carb did the trick
Ahhhhh, so I danced badly and sang off key for a few songs. Yay.
Much big very great huge thanks to all :)
Now... about the smoke... she still smokes, both from the tailpipe and from under the heatsheild over the exhaust manifold, pretty sure the exhaust manifold side smoke is from all the liquid wrench crap.
Hoping the smoke/steam out of the tail pipe is due to the new oil mixing with the old oil that had water in it.
Going to the store for supplies for another 2 oil changes (1 with the cleaner quart in it), and a new oil filter.
So will come home, change the oil & add the cleaner, run her for 5 minutes at idle w/the oil cleaner in the oil, then drain all that, THEN add the new oil, and the new filter (again). Then we'll see if she still steams out the back end.
Okay so LAST question HAHA:
WHEN do I torque down the head bolts the rest of the way ????
mtmartin1985mtmarfgfad
03-28-2015, 05:45 PM
One TDC is at the end of the compression stroke, and that's when the spark should happen. The other TDC is at the end of the exhaust stoke, and there is no spark.
Andy 2
03-28-2015, 08:43 PM
Glad to hear you got it running on it's own. After you put the oil cleaner in, I would let engine come up to it's full operating temp and let it idle for another 2-3 minutes to make sure the entire engine is as hot as it's going to get. Have the torque wrench all ready and then pop the valve cover and torque the bolts in the correct sequence to 75 ft. lbs. Then change the oil again as you planned.
As for the tailpipe smoke, you'll know more after you get it warmed up.
ok Andy, I can't really thank you enough without sounding stalker-ish LOL!!! But please know I deeeeeply appreciate your comments & such throughout this ordeal. My mom called = 2 hr phone call (good grief she can talk good thing I love her) and now it's dark so tomorrow rain OR shine I'll get out there & see about the final final final oil cleansing process & what comes out of the tailpipe.
I'm in the bad habit of assuming pretty much steam = smoke. I don't actually know the difference except that faint steam that's like sitting at idle at a red light on a freezing day - that I know for sure is steam. That for sure is only steam because all the other cars around me have the same thing going on & I always look around to make sure mine isn't the only one doing it. I'm not sure if it was smoking or steaming today but it wasn't under freezing temps so I'm calling it smoke. I put my hand a couple inches from the tail pipe and it was moisty afterwards, so I'm not sure if that's steam or smoke, it was sticky almost light oily feeling, not just water, but definitely gross. Smelled gross, too, like chemicals, not sweet, gross enough to cough afterwards. Hopefully tomorrow will bring good news, SURE could use some :)
Thank you again & sure hope you're having a much better weekend than me :)
Andy 2
03-29-2015, 08:16 AM
Not sweet might be a good thing as engine coolant smells sweet when it burns I believe. See what it's like after you get everything done and have had it out for a drive. If it's been sitting for a while, and its been rainy, it could just be moisture that's built up.
Ahhh, victory :) No more smoke or steam :)
Took her down a mile of 25mph zone, slowly, and then a 40mph zone, & hit 40, slowly. Parked her for a good 45 minutes & checked under her before & after & no leaks. Started her back up & no smoke or steam :) Drove back home in the same 40mph zone (only about a mile) and it's uphill a little tiny bit & she was fine without complaining though I did not push it a bit!
BF said she never sounded better, but I'm hearing little things, maybe just getting used to her new sounds. I pulled over on the 25mph zone to start from zero mph again & complained outloud that she doesn't GO when I step on the gas! She doesn't speed up very fast and he said she didn't do that before and laughed at me. I have to remember she's still only got 4 squirrels under the hood, not over 200 horses.
Oh so happy, so relieved, so mentally wiped out after this weekend. SO NICE to talk about the head gasket issues & putting her back together in the PAST TENSE!
Going to throw in a new thermostat just in case, because I never ever EVER want to do another head gasket again, ever. Ever.
It's not hard, and I do think anyone can do it, it's the tiny little details that are so worrying. Definitely worth trying to DIY and avoid getting ripped off for $1200 hahaha, omg, no way it should cost a lot to have professionally done!
Big thanks & hugs for all the support & clues along the way!!!
pennyman1
03-30-2015, 04:35 PM
remember to put a 192 - 195 degree thermostat in, preferably a high flow like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-Thermostat-New-Truck-4-Runner-Le-Baron-Ram-50-Pickup-2000-Honda-45869-/131405154799?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item1e985b89ef&vxp=mtr . Use the number of the stant part at your local parts store.
ragragtimetime
03-30-2015, 06:00 PM
i agree with Pennyman1 & like the picture shows it must have a jiggle valve to allow bypass if you are using the original carburetor so the choke will work correctly.
remember to put a 192 - 195 degree thermostat in, preferably a high flow like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-Thermostat-New-Truck-4-Runner-Le-Baron-Ram-50-Pickup-2000-Honda-45869-/131405154799?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item1e985b89ef&vxp=mtr . Use the number of the stant part at your local parts store.
I will !!! Thank you extremely much , perfect timing just remembered going to parts store tonight , so tired still but needs to be done, 100% agreed to follow the advice here absolutely!!!
i agree with Pennyman1 & like the picture shows it must have a jiggle valve to allow bypass if you are using the original carburetor so the choke will work correctly.
Aww thank you so much! Appreciate the jiggle valve words so when i get to the counter I won't pick the wrong option, lol. I did write down the part # and the truck sits until this is in *just in case*. Don't want any (more) problems :)
BradMph
03-30-2015, 11:29 PM
You all like them hot thermostats. I run a 180 and it runs at 200 consistently.
Jiggle valves :grin: What a great name...Reminds me once when the wifey bought butt connectors for a project I was doing. No smart ass remarks either, lol They are a real thing you can buy at a electrical store.
13700
Just a little update *knock on wood* nothing in/on/under the truck is leaking other than the windows! No smoke, no steam, no drips from anything. No fluid drops on the driveway & all the messy fluid spills i did while replacing power steering hoses and such burned off. Rubbed my hand all over the back of the engine where i can't see & it came back a little dirty but dry as hell *YES!* Even got the gaskets & valve cover pieces done RTV'd just right. No leaks from the transmission, radiator, or new power steering hoses I replaced & the vacuum hoses all stayed attached without extra clamps being added cause I was paranoid & thought maybe I should, but nope, they really do stay on.
Yeah I didn't post about it because I searched successfully (finally) but I did replace a power steering hose & learned how to bleed the air from that, etc. Finished that up on Sunday with a few more vacuum hoses replaced with new ones, too.
Kid drove it 2 days (he's a lot harder on it than I ever am) and no problems. He did come home after the first trip & tell me the truck overheated --- my heart sank -- then he told me yeah but there was no water in the back so he couldn't add any -- omg --- so then I asked how hot did it get? To the red line or what?! He said, no, about 1/2 way on the guage. HAHAHA I exhaled & explained the gauge is accurate now, H means hot, 1/2 way is not overheated. WHEW! I Let the engine cool and made him come outside with me to open the radiator cap & see there was still full coolant/water in the radiator :) OH joyous moment to see his amazement :) Told him for 100% sure he doesn't have to add water anymore, explained it really is all fixed now :)
I checked all the fluids tonight and the oil is down a bit, from midway on the stick between max & min, to just above min, so I tightened the nut and the filter (hand tight but I'm weak so hoping that's all it was). Either that or since he took it on the freeway (omg probably 60mph already) & around town putting about 200 miles on it in 2 days, all the remaining moisture/coolant/stuff left in the oil finally burned off & made the level a tad lower. I'll keep an eye on the oil and EVERYTHING else for a long long long time.
So beyond happy it's all looking pretty darn good considering I'm just still learning about her & she's old, lol. *exhales* Next I'm going to clean house for a few days, my poor house is so dirty from me ignoring housework to deal with learning about & fixing the truck.
Giant seriously big thank yous for the tips & such, hopefully will be a while before I ask more dumb questions ;)
Andy 2
04-15-2015, 05:35 AM
Glad to hear everything's working well. You might consider putting some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. If you're burning a bit of oil it can slow that down. http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives
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