94 Max 2.4l acceleration problems

[Kaiten]

I've recently purchased the above mentioned pickup. 2.4 - 5 speed, reg cab, 2wd. Love this thing. The issue I am currently trying to track down is the hesitation/sputter/limp/gutlessness while accelerating and only accelerating. She revs fine, idles fine, even at higher speeds she cruises fine. But while getting up to speed between 1st and 3rd/4th is stumbles. Has the feeling of like bad gas, maybe even a miss.

Since I've had it I preformed a BG Injection flush, which is ran good and strong for about the first 5 minutes afterwards before back to its old ways.

Replaced plugs (.41), cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter.

Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor with, can't remember but the spray made for cleaning said sensor.

Check engine light comes on periodically. I didn't have an analog meter to check but the best I got with the digital one seems like it was reading the O2 sensor and I think a throttle position sensor. Both are a bit "spendy" even with my discount (work with parts). So these will be replaced but not any time soon less this is the problem.

Well thank you for future help and for taking the time to read. Enjoy your day.

[Rahtid]

most likely the tps sensor, I had the same issue on my truck,I got a tps from a eclipse in the junk yard

[lush90]

Did this truck sit for a while? I had similar symptoms that turned out to be clogged injectors. The injector cleaner additive did not work for me but having them cleaned in an ultra sonic tank made all the difference in the world. Something to consider.

[Kaiten]

Have to give the tps a try.

No idea. Bought it from the dealership I work at as a fresh trade. I have no info on the previous owner but it came with all service records from 94 to 11. So that was nice. Who/what does this sonic tank injector cleans?

[pennyman1]

its an ultrasonic cleaner like is used for jewelry and other metal items. You put the injectors in there with the tips off and run it. I am not sure what you use for the cleaner in the tray,but others on here have done this so maybe they can chime in.

[bobbyk]

If you have access to good scanner with data stream then give this a try. First clean your throttle body then adjust your rpm to 750 +\- 50 at idle after warm up. Then adjust tps to 3.5-6.5 k-ohms at closed throttle. If you can get it into range then get a new tps. It's worth a shot before spending money on the sensor. I had a similar issue and just need to clean and adjust.

[Kaiten]

Update: hooked it to a scan tool today. Watched tps voltage and the injectors and detected no faults. Got a code, 22. Is replacing the distributor my only option for that sensor or does anyone posses some trick.

[Kaiten]

So without pulling the distributor to get to the connectors to test everything I just cleared the codes, in which it feels like it runs better. My question is now undocumented code E8H/232. This is what it throws when the check light comes on the goes off. It acts like the light on my blazer when the O2 sensor went out but this had a code for that sensor so I'm lost on the undocumented part.

[BradMph]

As for the ultrasonic ingredients, being a Jewelers apprentice and worker for about 8 years, the substance is Water, Ammonia and Dish washing soap.

Example:
50% H20
49% Ammonia - You want this to the point you have to sneak up on it and try not to breath too heavily. Use bath Lid.
1% Dawn Dish Soap

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

How weird, ready for this one?
I punched in your error code online and found this...

Here is the info in code for what you have given as a code error.

Decimal / Hex / Binary / character
232 / E8h / 11101000 / è
Located at
http://www.bobborst.com/tools/ascii-codes/

and here is more...

E8h (232) (NetWare4) no data available for nonblocking read
located at
http://www.delorie.com/djgpp/doc/libc/libc_189.html


Searching the Binary code entry only came up with this...
Conversion

Decimal
232

Binary
11101000

Hexadecimal
0xe8

Roman CCXXXII

Dotted decimal
0.0.0.232

Math

Square root of 53824

Factors 29 2 2 2

Located at
http://numbermonk.com/binary/232

Here are several information suggestions on that Binary.
11101000 = 23 ⋅ 53 ⋅ 17 ⋅ 653
Read further info
http://www.numbersaplenty.com/11101000


As I look further into your error code it seems more and more to me as a memory error, in the system, or a system, meaning the CPU memory.
But in other words the error seems to be that the memory that is holding information has somehow had a brain fart in the memory as information was placed into it. If you are using s device to read errors, try again. If not then possibly it's just nothing to worry about. The system is soft crashing in the memory when it goes to input the message into that memory.

Just my best guess from what I can locate.

[noahwins]

Harbor Freight sells an ultrasonic parts cleaner for jewelry and such for around $30.

[Kaiten]

My guess is the crank sensor fault (22) put it in a lump mode cause it is still running strong today. Check light still is on and off. I'll scan it again tomorrow to see if there is a change. Only thing now is I need to replace the fan clutch.

That 232 code is a head scratcher. Thanks for the info though.

[geezer101]

Does it feel like it's struggling for power, or even 'cough' when you put your foot down? What condition is the catalytic converter in? If the core of it has collapsed it might be restricting exhaust gas flow. It's one of those things that can be hard to diagnose...

[Kaiten]

That's what it was doing. Spit and sputter. Severely lacking power while accelerating. But hasn't done it since I cleared the 22 code.

[pennyman1]

check your math on the cleaning solution BradMPH- 60+49+1=110% . you mean 50+49+1.

[Kaiten]

I lied. 22 hasn't tripped again. The undocumented code is persistent. But it's back to cutting out. Which now confuses me even more as to why it ran so strong over the weekend.

[Rahtid]

code 22 is crank angle sensor,what scan tool did you use, I used a old snap on scan tool that all the connectors for all the imports cars before obd11

here is a code list
MPFI
V6 and 89-95 4 Cyl.
(Exc. 95 Eclipse)
Voltmeter or Test Light
11 Oxygen Sensor.
12 Air Flow Sensor.
13 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
14 Throttle Position Sensor.
15 Motor Position Sensor.
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
22 Crank Angle Sensor.
23 TDC/CMP Sensor.
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
26 BARO Sensor.
31 Knock Sensor.
32 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor.
36 Ignition Timing Adjustment Signal.
39 Oxygen Sensor.
41 Injector.
42 Fuel Pump.
43 EGR.
44 Ignition Coil, 4 Cylinder.
44 Ignition Coil Power Transistor Unit, V6 Cylinders 1 & 4.
52 Ignition Coil Power Transistor Unit, V6 Cylinders 2 & 5.
53 Ignition Coil Power Transistor Unit, V6 Cylinders 3 & 6.
55 Idle Air Control Valve/Servo Valve Position Sensor.
59 Oxygen Sensor (Rear), 4 Cylinder.
59 Left hand Bank Heated Oxygen Sensor, V6.
61 Cable from Transaxle Control Unit, For Transmission
61 Torque Reduction Signal (A/T).
62 Induction Control Valve Position Sensor (Non Turbo).
69 Right hand Bank Heated Oxygen Sensor.
71 Traction Control Vacuum Solenoid.
72 Traction Control Ventilation Solenoid

[ahicks66]

A malfunctioning crank sensor can cause hard starts and sluggish performance, as will a clogged catalytic converter. Been through this with my '87 LeSabre. I would replace the crank sensor, since a faulty signal will cause the ECM to adjust timing and injector pulse to compensate for what the ECM thinks the engine is doing. A plugged cat usually manifests itself not only while driving, but also while idling (I had a 2300 RPM limit, if I was lucky, before the car fell on its face - and was even worse in gear).

In most cars, in early stages of CPS failure, the sensor becomes heat-sensitive. Cold starts will usually be ok, and the vehicle will run well for a while until everything under the hood becomes heat-soaked; once that happens, the sensor will throw a bad signal periodically and cause misfires and miscues to the injectors. Usually at that time it will throw a Check Engine code and light the MIL. Sometimes you can turn off and restart the engine and resume normal operation until the sensor goofs up again. Other times, a restart will be near-impossible if the sensor is that far gone (the ECM does not see the engine turning, or turning over erratically).

Proper diagnosis of the crank sensor usually requires a longer driving cycle with a data logger reading sensor response as you drive. Paying a shop to do this, if you don't have access to the equipment, will probably cost you a lot more money than simply changing the sensor out and seeing if it cures the problem. If you choose to replace it, I recommend NOT using remanufactured sensors - I've had more than my share of faulty remanned sensors from the Auto Parts Box Stores (approx. 85% failure rate within the warranty period). I would go with a direct OEM replacement if you can find one, because the build quality is typically much better and often has a longer warranty. In these cases, you get what you pay for.

Good luck - and let us know how it turns out!

[ahicks66]

Oh, as far as the undocumented code goes... If BradMPH is on the right track, and he very well might be, keep in mind I have head rumblings that the MM/D-50 has a history of ECMs having bad capacitors in them over several years. There is also the slight chance that your ECM is hinting at impending failure; the easiest way I've seen to check this is to physically remove the ECM from the vehicle, ground yourself to the casing of the ECM, and carefully open up the casing and check for failing capacitors.

This check is very simple, most anyone can do this simply by looking at them. You're looking for shrink-wrapped metal canisters, which will usually be standing straight up. Check to see that the shrink wrapping (usually colored with numbers indicating capacitance and working voltage) is not burned, singed, or "pulling away" from the top of the component. Failing capacitors also tend to develop a bulge in the metal casing at the very top. Sometimes, the metal will rupture slightly. Once you have visually inspected the capacitors themselves, flip the circuit board over and look at the backside where the capacitors are soldered to the board. Sometimes you will see brown discoloration at the solder points; this is not necessarily proof of failure though.

If the undocumented code is an addressing error (layman's terms: error writing/reading from the ECM and memory) that could either be a failing capacitor or failing ECM. I would venture a guess and say the issues you're having with the vehicle is the reason why it was traded in. It could also be a "ghost code," one that appears due to an error elsewhere in the system (possibly the wiring to/from the crank sensor, or the sensor itself). It's a rare occurrence, but I have seen it happen in GM cars.

[ahicks66]

Here are a few photos of bad capacitors I found doing a Google Image Search. Just so you know the types of damage to look for:
1067310674

[noahwins]

Also any "electronic" or metallic smell indicates capacitor failure even if it looks like the caps are OK. The solder joints often develop microcracks invisible to the naked eye through years of heat cycles.

[BradMph]

Although Kaiten hasn't posted in a couple weeks, he may of located the issue, but that's just a guess. Keep us updated Kaiten.

[Kaiten]

Jesus I didn't realize this was still on going. I thank you for the additional information. I've been looking into the cps but from what I've found it's built into the distributor. Which puts it in that price range of "well shit". Same with the ecm. Although it at least sounds like I can inspect that one. It's still planned on replacing the distributor just a matter of cash at the moment.

I used our newer snap on scan tool. So it let me monitor a good amount of sensors and nothing looked out of the ordinary.

It probably was the reason it got traded in but it is still an amazing vehicle and the gas millage, I love it. I will without a doubt be driving this till the wheels fall off.

[camoit]

You will be surprised how long a thread will live on. They will come back up after laying dormant for a year or two.
But I bet your problem will be somthing simple when you find it. They normally turn out that way with these trucks. Just keep after it.

[Kaiten]

Funny enough, although it's parked right now for winter before hand it was clearing up on its own. The check engine light is very far and few. Doesn't last nearly as long as the days it use to stay one. Even the spit and sputter is gone our not noticeable.

I thought it was a daily driver but I guess it could have sat for a while and just needed to be driven? I'm sure a problem is still there but putting miles on it sure helped.