Weber 32/36

[geezer101]

Noted penny man. I am using the manual fuel pump and a holley FPR. It stays in between 3 and 5. But fluctuate s in between when running. I just don't understand why I have to step on the gas 5-7 times before it will turn over. I took the accelerator apart and the diaphragm is not ripped or torn. And seems to be functioning regularly.?

Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)


Well ;made changes to the idle mixture and idle screw and now it diesels. Could it be the carbon build up from before? Out of the box settings did not cause dieseling.

Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing.

[maxdsm]

I took it apart and that's exactly what happen to the diaphragm . Thanks geezer. Will be ordering a new one.

[maxdsm]

#31. Maybe I shouldn't stomp the crap Out the gas peddle and that might not happen.unless I had it set up for to much fuel and that did it before I made adjustments

[geezer101]

The mechanical fuel pump + Holley FPR will cause you grief. It's inevitable. Change to an electric pump and it will go a long way to sorting your Weber install out. Been giving this a bit of thought and was wondering if installing a one way check valve in the fuel line post pump would be beneficial? I may need this if I go ahead with my loopy twin fuel tank set up...

[pennyman1]

I had a facet electric pump that had a built in check valve on the outlet of the pump years ago. The issue is, the check valve requires pressure to open it, so it will drop the pressure slightly, depending on the pressure rating of the check. A 1/2 lb check would be the one to use, if you can find one.

[geezer101]

Thanks pennyman :thumbup: so...if I put the check valve before the pump, could it cause potential issues with fuel pick up? I want to make the twin tank delivery system as simple as possible - no solenoids, 2 separate pumps with check valves and a joiner to bridge them into a single line for the carb. Yes, there will be a manual control switch to flip between tanks (before anyone asks lol)

[pennyman1]

has to be after the pump - the pump does not have enough suction to open the check. The external electric pumps are gravity feed.

[yamahlr]

Webern are know for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.

[yamahlr]

Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.

[jamesw]

Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
only for some of the webers they don't make one for mine 32/36 dgev

[risingphx25]

Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)



Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing..

Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.

[87junker]

.

Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.

I believe this is gonna be my next step.

[87junker]

Any suggestions on where to order weber part? I've used allstate a couple time so far. I've seen LCE performance and I think carburetation.com just wondering if there are any more?

[geezer101]

A list of genuine Weber retailers and suppliers - note the webercarbsdirect in the middle of it as being the crap copy seller to avoid.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2854-Thinking-about-buying-a-weber-carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!?p=27961&viewfull=1#post27961

[pennyman1]

the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.

[jamesw]

the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.
your 1000% right i found out the hard way

[pacheco2189]

This is my first post and I am having trouble. The truck just cranks but won't start after installing the weber carb.

Background:
Removed engine and trans to replace rear main seal. When I placed the motor back in I replace the alternator, water pump, radiator, spark plug wires, rotor and rotor cap.

Upgrades:
Pace setter headers
Weber carb

After hooking everything up and refilling all fluids, I turned the key and it was going to start. I waited for about 5 min and now it just cranks but wont start. Carb is getting fuel, tested the spark with a screwdriver, tested secondary for the coil. Vacuum system has been removed except the line for vac advance from the distributor. I am all out of ideas and could use some help. I attached pictures if that helps. This is my first time doing this so maybe there is something I am missing or not seeing.

214402144121442

[Andy 2]

If you didn't put a fuel pressure regulator in and you are using the OEM fuel pump it might be possible that you are flooding the motor. I think the OEM pump puts out around 8 psi and the Weber only wants 3. It may be overpowering the float and pouring fuel into the throttle body. Try holding the choke plate open with a screwdriver and depress the pedal some then try starting it again. If you have to keep your foot on the accelerator to keep it running chances are it's too rich and you will need a fuel pressure regulator.

[geezer101]

This is my first post and I am having trouble. The truck just cranks but won't start after installing the weber carb...

You may have a bigger problem - is it a legit Weber carb? If it's a 'licensed copy' (read as 'bad knock-off) you will never get this thing to run right. Tips on installing a Weber carb - used a high volume, low pressure electric pump (don't try to regulate the mechanical factory pump as it will eventually kill it) and ensure it's a genuine unit. Plug the coolant port under the carb to eliminate possible coolant bypass issues as well.

[FMS88]

pacheco2189,
Have you tried starting it after a shot of starting fluid down the carb throat? If it starts and runs for a moment, that reduces the chance the problem is electrical. There may be air in the fuel lines that the fuel pump can't overcome at cranking speed. A couple of starting fluid starts might be enough to get fuel flowing properly if that's the problem. I used to have a Weber and I had to use starting fluid to get the truck running if it sat for more than 3-4 days.

[pacheco2189]

When I got it all together, I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and that is when and only when it wanted to start. I will try the fuel pressure idea and let you guys know the outcome. I also need to plug the coolant as well. Thank you

[pacheco2189]

So I tried keeping the choke plate open and it still cranks but does not start. I know I still need to fix the psi problem but does that mean the floating is not the problem? Could it be electrical and if so.. what?

[FMS88]

Carb cleaner is flammable but it still might be too wet. Get a starting fluid which is extremely combustible (ethyl-ether). Spray a shot of it into the carb and see if it starts and runs 2-3 seconds. If it still won’t start, remove the plugs. Note if the plugs are very wet or fouled. Dry, clean and gap each plug. Check that each plug is getting current and fires with a bright arc. If the plugs spark as expected, install the plugs and wires. Double check the plug wires at the cap to be sure the firing order is correct. If you didn’t remove or move the distributor earlier and everything checks out fine to this point, try another shot of starting fluid. Then crank it over with the throttle open slightly. It should start and run for a few seconds.

[geezer101]

...and you may need to trial and error your distributor timing. The Weber is a vacuum beast and may be trying to over advance your timing. A DIY tip for one man ignition timing. Get a length of wire long enough to reach from your starter solenoid to your battery without risk of it getting caught up in any moving parts, crimp a female spade connector onto one end, unplug the starter wire and connect your bypass wire to the starter solenoid. There - you have a remote starter lead! With the ignition in the on position, all you need to do to start the engine is touch the other end of your wire to the positive terminal and it'll kick over. You'll be able to adjust the distributor until you get it to fire and to kill the engine, just pull the main plug lead from the coil.

[pacheco2189]

So I tried the starter fluid and the timing. Still the same. I was doing some other testing and noticed the spark seems weak. Could that be a problem and if so, what could cause it? Also, I know the vacuum system is obsolete but from looking at wiring diagrams the gray control box on the drivers side has like 2 ignition wires that hook into it. Do I need to have that hooked up?

[FMS88]

So I tried the starter fluid and the timing. Still the same. I was doing some other testing and noticed the spark seems weak. Could that be a problem and if so, what could cause it? Also, I know the vacuum system is obsolete but from looking at wiring diagrams the gray control box on the drivers side has like 2 ignition wires that hook into it. Do I need to have that hooked up?

Weak spark could be due to poor ground or harness connections. Check the battery-to-frame-to-block and the head-to-firewall cables for continuity and clean their contact surfaces. Then check that the coil, resistor block and distributor wiring connections are clean and secure. The coil or ignition igniter in the distributor could be failing, but if it ran fine before the Weber install, I doubt these are causing the starting problem.
I‘m not sure about the ignition wires to the gray device box. My schematic shows only one, a black and white wire from the resistor block to a choke relay in the box. Like the vacuum lines with the Weber, the harness connections to the box no longer have a purpose. I don’t think it needs to be connected.

What is the power source for the Weber’s choke? Maybe it’s competing with and killing power to the starting ignition? Look at this thread which describes a loss of spark after a Weber install: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/7199-No-spark-to-plugs . See if yours starts after disconnecting the choke wire like rranger found. If it starts, find another power source for the choke. It needs to be energized only when the key is in the "On" position.

[pacheco2189]

Still nothing, all grounds are good, all connections are clean and secure. My weber choke is connected to a wire that use to plug into the old carb. I attached pictures of the wiring. I hooked everything back up the same exact way it came of but something seems off.

214622146321464

[FMS88]

Hmmm. I'm running out of possibilities. Nothing in the pictures looked wrong. Just to be clear, when you tested for spark, was it at the plugs?

[maxdsm]

Put a accel or msd aftermarket coil pack on it . My g63b did the same with weak spark after I rebuilt it . Starts up everytime now .

[bigwavedave]

Hey guys,

So i decided to tackle the weber project yesterday. I got the genuine weber 32/36 DGEV installed and the truck is starting and running fine. I have the idle and mixture screws tuned according the installation instructions. Fast idle screw is set to 2,000 RPM, idle speed screw is 1 1/2 turns in, and mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns out. The installation of the carb was straight forward, but there are a few things that I'm unsure about though so maybe someone here can shed some light for me. Mostly what to do with all my old vacuum lines. I have 1989 G63B manual with A/C.

1. I'd like to keep the vacuum lines in the engine bay for the emissions look, does anything need to be capped off not and just tucked away?
2. #8 in the installation instructions say to "Disconnect the evaporative emissions lines from the carb and air filter at the charcoal canister". does this mean to completely remove or cap off the lines coming off the charcoal canister labeled "to carb" and "to A?C"?
3. #9 in the instructions says "disconnect EGR valve and thermal switch next to it, they will disconnected and not be used". I disconnected the large vacuum line on the bottom oft he EGR as well as the small line going into the top, but which switch needs to be unplugged? There are three all in the same area just to the left of the EGR going into the thermostat housing.
4. #11 in the instructions says "Remove the two exhaust tubes from the exhaust manifold and use 1 1/4 plugs supplied to plug the holes". There was only one hole tp be plugged coming out of the manifold. It was the one that had the large metal pipe coming out of it going to the air control valve. I did remove the metal tube coming off the manifold and the entire secondary air valve assembly and used the supplied plug to the the hole in the manifold.
5. #12 in the instructions says "plug all open vacuum lines and thermal switch fittings on the intake manifold. make ABSOLUTELY SURE there are no connections to the EGR, the only vacuum used if the the power brakes". I'm unsure of exactly what I need to plug off here. Both lines going to the EGR have been disconnected and the factory vacuum line going from the brake booster to the intake manifold was untouched and still in place.
6. How does my electric choke connection look? Acceptable? it is a keyed power source, but just want to make sure with you guys its OK and if there isnt a better place to hook it up.
7. The vacuum line going from the carb to the distributor. There are 2 vacuum lines on my distributor: one coming off the side and one coming out of the bottom, which is the correct one to use and does the other need to be plugged or left open?
8. Fuel return line. Right now I have the return line coming off the fuel pump connected via a wire barb to the line going back to the tank. Is this correct?
*I have a Carbole electric fuel pump P/N 42S that I plan on installing in the next few days that will eliminate the stock mechanical pump. Once i install this electric fuel pump what will I do with the return line?
9. The trhottle return spring. is there a right and wrong way to install this is or is it just a make it work as best as possible kind of thing?

Thank you for any and all input!

[camoit]

So far everything looks fine.

[SubGothius]

If you've got a box on the driver's side inner fender with a bunch of vac lines running to it, that's a control box for the stock Mikuni carb, so you may as well pull that along with all vac lines connected to it, which will simplify things enormously.

That should leave a "tree" of open vac hose barbs screwed into the manifold, so you just need to cap those off, or IMO better yet run a short length of vac hose between pairs of those barbs and then just cap any odd man out (as caps tend to deteriorate more readily than hose does). Some ppl even unscrew that tree and plug the hole, but it's a weird 1/8"-28 BSPT thread (not the US-typical NPT) that you'd prolly need to special-order a plug for off eBay.

You don't have to cap any barbs attached to sensors/senders, as those aren't open to manifold vacuum.

[geezer101]

Jeez, the vac lines give me anxiety just looking at them. The concept of diagnosing a vac leak though... definitely remove the feedback system for the Mikuni carb unless to need to BS your way through emissions inspections.

[SubGothius]

9. The trhottle return spring. is there a right and wrong way to install this is or is it just a make it work as best as possible kind of thing?

Here's how I did mine:

25359

[geezer101]

^looks like a perfect set up :thumbup:

[geezer101]

I thought I'd put up a link to a YT video of a guy doing the 32/36 swap on his 2.6. The only errors he has made is not installing an electric HVLP fuel pump and instead using a fuel pressure regulator on the factory fuel pump and simply repurposing the fuel cut power from the original carb to run the electric choke which would've saved time and effort -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JH8zM42SpA&ab_channel=Theo%E2%80%99sGarage

*the important info is on blocking the coolant port

[88dodge]

I thought I'd put up a link to a YT video of a guy doing the 32/36 swap on his 2.6. The only errors he has made is not installing an electric HVLP fuel pump and instead using a fuel pressure regulator on the factory fuel pump and simply repurposing the fuel cut power from the original carb to run the electric choke which would've saved time and effort -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JH8zM42SpA&ab_channel=Theo%E2%80%99sGarage

*the important info is on blocking the coolant port

Why cant you use the original fuel pump with a regulator?

[camoit]

Why cant you use the original fuel pump with a regulator?

it’s because 90% of the regulators on the market will slowly increase pressure above the 2 psi limit. And most of the people that say it is fine have never put a gauge on the carb side and run with it. If they did they would quickly see that the only way to actually limit the pressure is to use a regulator with a return line to the tank.

[88dodge]

it’s because 90% of the regulators on the market will slowly increase pressure above the 2 psi limit. And most of the people that say it is fine have never put a gauge on the carb side and run with it. If they did they would quickly see that the only way to actually limit the pressure is to use a regulator with a return line to the tank.

so the fuel pump you would run is 2psi, so would this pump be ideal?

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426

[geezer101]

It will need a higher flow rate than that to supply a Weber. 3.5 psi is closer to the ideal fuel pressure as well. The Mr Gasket 42S pump meets these requirements but it's kinda pricey - the Carbole 42S pump is identical excluding the stickers on the pump body and is literally half the price. Some people recommend the Carter P4070 but my experience was less than favourable (really noisy, expensive and the pump failed causing metal chaff to be coughed up into the fuel line)

[SubGothius]

I like the Carter P90091 myself -- smaller, quieter, and a simpler gerotor (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerotor) design completely different from the rotary-vane (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_vane_pump) P4070 and generally a bit cheaper, too. Native pressure is exactly right for a Weber with smooth flow (unlike the pulsing delivery of most cheap solenoid-driven piston-action pumps), never had one fail in the 15+ years I've been using them [knock wood].

[geezer101]

There you go 88dodge - you have options :thumbup:

*thanks SubG. And it looks like most vendors supply a metal fuel filter as part of the packages starting @ $70ish USD

[SubGothius]

And it looks like most vendors supply a metal fuel filter as part of the packages starting @ $70ish USD

Yes, as standard eqpt. Carter includes a pre-filter attached by semi-permanent crimp-on hose clamps, so I suspect it's only there to protect the pump from coarse chunks and likely just has a fine stainless-mesh screen inside, so I'd still add a post-pump filter with conventional cellulose media, prolly underhood near the carb where it's more accessible. I'm seeing the P90091 available from Amazon at $46.60 USD shipped (https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P90091-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B07BBDSZP1).

[88dodge]

Yes, as standard eqpt. Carter includes a pre-filter attached by semi-permanent crimp-on hose clamps, so I suspect it's only there to protect the pump from coarse chunks and likely just has a fine stainless-mesh screen inside, so I'd still add a post-pump filter with conventional cellulose media, prolly underhood near the carb where it's more accessible. I'm seeing the P90091 available from Amazon at $46.60 USD shipped (https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P90091-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B07BBDSZP1).

Thanks guys, I do appreciate all the help you guys give me :grin:

[camoit]

A stock pump puts out 7 to 10 psi depending on how old the springs are. The flow is fine from them. They just cause the carb to over fill all the time and it will run rich

[SubGothius]

A stock pump puts out 7 to 10 psi depending on how old the springs are. The flow is fine from them. They just cause the carb to over fill all the time and it will run rich

Flow is fine, but pressure is excessive for a Weber, forcing the needle valve off its seat when the float should be holding it closed, and putting a regulator on it to reduce the pressure stresses the pump mechanism/membrane, eventually killing the pump. Electric is just the better, simpler, more reliable way to go.

[RamRock50]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to find posts/threads that show how to do the electrical for wiring up an electric fuel pump for a weber carb. I've tried looking in this thread, but I didn't find much. Is there a good reference for how to do that?

[85Ram50]

RamRock
Look in the wiki. I tried to find my own posts and pics of what I did, but they seem to be gone. I barely remember what it looks like. :)

[SubGothius]

Check my posts in this thread for relay wiring, where/how to mount the pump, etc:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8606-Weber-carb-install

[88dodge]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to find posts/threads that show how to do the electrical for wiring up an electric fuel pump for a weber carb. I've tried looking in this thread, but I didn't find much. Is there a good reference for how to do that?

My father and I wired it up to the wires for the emission box that we took out, it works great, we also used another wire that went to the emission
box for the electric choke as well

[cheko_leal]

Hello everyone

@bigwavedave (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/member.php/5083-bigwavedave)

I have the same distributor as you and the same doubt (point number 7). I think that distributor is not very common because I can't find information about it, and my truck is from the same year, 1989. Did you figure out which one is the advance vacuum and if the other one should be capped or left open?