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Thread: Truck runs great but.....

  1. #1

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    Truck runs great but.....

    Okay so ive finally been able to drive my truck for a few days now and its running great. The only issue i have is that sometimes after I park it, when income back out to leave, it has a hard time starting. Not sure if its the ignition coil or what. It does have a little bit of a run on when i shut off which could be contributing to the problem. It seems to start a little easier if i put it in gear and left off the clutch to put a load on it and shut it off, it wont try to keep running. Im wondering if an upgraded ignition coil will help and if so, which one. Thanks

  2. #2

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    Sounds more like a fuelling issue. Normally if it's a coil it will break down while you're driving and it's under load. They get hot and lose spark - you come back later and it starts. If you do choose a new coil, I'd recommend a new Bosch T-coil for electronic ignition. They produce a mean spark and will improve your fuel burn.

  3. #3

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    Alright, ill look those up. If its a fuel issue, where should i look?

  4. #4

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    And just for giggles, check a spark plug: sounds like they might need replacing.
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  5. #5

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    20160524_163010.jpg

    Heres my spark plugs. I may switch em out anyways

  6. #6

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    Could the ignition resistor be a problem to. Not sure if ive just necer noticed but i dont recall any of my other carburetored engines having them.

  7. #7

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    Your plugs look o.k. to me. If it was the resistor it would get hot and die while you're driving (could be wrong but I had it happen to me so experience tells differently)

  8. #8



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    Sounds like a timing problem or vacuum leek.
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  9. #9

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    my 88 was doing that was
    {Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.}
    i,m running a weber redline carb i kept back the air/fuel screw till it stop dieseling . it took me a few weeks of everytime i would go to run the little girl i would lift the hood give the screw a 1/8 turn and go to town*about 3 miles from the house* till finally one day i noticed it had stop do it no matter how long or how hot the engine got. i guess i found the sweet spot lol hope this helps

  10. #10

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    Ive just been putting it in gear and letting the clutch out a little and turning it off with a load in it and it doesnt do it. I also had to replace the battery yesterday and that seems to have fixed my cranking problem. We will see though.

  11. #11

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    I believe the carb has a fuel cut off solenoid. It is to prevent diesel ing, or run on as you call it.

  12. #12



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    Also to rich will cause it. You should preform a lean drop on the carb. Search the archive board for the how to. I should put together a video on how to do that one day.
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  13. #13

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    If the fuel cut solenoid fails it will kill your engine. I had a glitchy one that would die every time I left the lights. Try winding in your idle mixture screw 1/4 turn until it tames the dieselling.

  14. #14

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    Ok, ill try all that. Thanks guys

  15. #15



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    Turn the idle speed screw down to lower the rpm and at the same time make adjustments to the mix to lean it out as best as you can. You want it lean but you also don't want the idle speed or butterfly open to far. That to will cause run on. It just takes time to lean drop the engine.
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    Turn the idle speed screw down to lower the rpm and at the same time make adjustments to the mix to lean it out as best as you can. You want it lean but you also don't want the idle speed or butterfly open to far. That to will cause run on. It just takes time to lean drop the engine.
    Should've been the first question to ask you - what is your idle rpm like? If it's high (like 1500ish) it will try to pull fuel with whatever residual vacuum is left in the engine when you turn it off.

  17. #17

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    Since messing with the idle screw, my rpms are around the 1100 mark. I was having stalling issues unless i kept pumping the gas. I just bought new spark plugs and about to install those to see if that helps anymore. Eventually, i wanna take this thing to a shop to get a once over.

  18. #18

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    May just have a blocked jet. You can try purging the carb by taking the air filter off, getting someone to hold the throttle while you cup a hand over the carb throats to starve it of air. Sometimes it's enough to pull any blockages out of the jets. Use a mirror to see if you have a decent fuel spray while the engine is running too (don't put your face over the carb in case it feels like coughing a fireball up at you). Either the primary jet is clogged up or someone messed with the air/fuel mixture screw and the idle stop screw (option #3 is carb needs rebuilding)

  19. #19

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    The spark plugs worked tremendously, gonna get wires next and thatll be it i believe. Im not good at diagnosing engine problems. I dont trust anything the previous owner says because he told me all this stuff was new.

  20. #20

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    Out of curiousity, what plugs did you buy? I have read up on plug manufacturer selection and there's a bit of debate over what brands of plugs perform better for different engines and ignitions. Engine fault diagnosis is a PITA especially after trying to figure out what someone else has unnecessarily tampered with.
    Good to hear you've pretty well much got it tamed now.

  21. #21




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    NGK or Denso for our trucks - Autolite are OK if you can't get those brands.
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  22. #22

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    I got njk, they were like 7 bucks a piece. My truck is finay running good. Gonna pick some wires as well. Its starts right up, doesnt take long to warm up, no sputtering or stalling. Hopefully it stays that way for atleast a month, thats all i ask for right now.lol

  23. #23

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    Ngk* damn phone

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