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Thread: Jax Turbo Max

  1. #101

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    Watched a few youtube videos on metal shrinking so now Im an expert (not really but sounds good). My foreman let me use the torch as long as I promised not to blow anything up. Good job done there. I pushed on the panel in the low and high spots looking for it to pop back. Then I heated the area almost red about the size of a quarter. Supposed to be dime size as I have read but Im new to this. I think most of the stuff I read about was for older cars which have thicker sheetmetal so I was afraid of burning right through it or warping it even more. Once it was good and hot I used my free hand ( with glove) to cool the area with a wet rag. When I pushed on the spot again it didnt pop in and out.

    Next Ill beat on it some more with a hammer and dolly to work out the highs and lows. I expect that might stretch the metal a little once more. If so, Ill go back and shrink it again.

  2. #102

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    Built a dolly to move the bed around with
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  3. #103

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    Had better luck shaving the antenna. I was pretty nervous about warping a nice fender so I turned down the welder to the lowest setting. No warpage issues and still got decent welds.
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    Last edited by crvtec90; 10-04-2012 at 02:50 PM.

  4. #104

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    I was gonna try cutting up some busted stock mirrors to make some block-off plates, but ended up finding a set at the yard.
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  5. #105

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    Nothing new going on with the truck. Still start it up every once in a while and move it around a bit to give it a chance to survive storage. My tags are up for renewal in October and Im hoping to get it all legal to drive again.

  6. #106

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    Finally said goodbye to my parts truck. I scavenged up the good stuff for my truck and sold it to a friend of mine to use as a beater. Wish I had swapped the dash first but I was too lazy. He bought a reman carb from oreily for around 300$ so far so good. We tried to rebuild the original carb but it was too far gone. One of the throttle plates was rusted shut and half the screws weren't coming off without stripping or breaking. The reman carb needs sum adjustment but its running n driving. Probably gonna throw a cheap rustoleum paint job at it.

  7. #107

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    Sad to see it go since they're getting so hard to find.
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  8. #108

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    Looks like a good basis for a "zombie-max" build Even so, it doesn't look that far gone. Someone with the time could resurrect that no problem.

  9. #109

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    Noticed a big pile of dirt under the front of my truck. Seems a mole has made a home underneath.

    Went to fire up the truck to move it and it would barely stay running. No fuel pressure. The walboro pump doesn't have a whole lot of miles on it. Figured I would just throw the stock pump back in.

    When I got the fuel pump assembly out it was obvious that the rubber hose/ pump insulator had turned to goo from sitting in old fuel for far too long. The walboro pump turned out to be okay. I used some new hoses and the truck runs just fine. Still have to flush the tank out and add some stabilizer.
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    Last edited by crvtec90; 09-15-2014 at 05:48 PM. Reason: pic

  10. #110

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    They make specific hoses designed for being submerged in a gas tank and if you dont get them and just use regular hoses they will do exactly what is in that picture

  11. #111



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    I'm sure everyone here wants to see a photo of the mole after your done with him, lol.

    I never seen fuel hose do that before...though with the crap they stick in gas today I'm not surprised.

  12. #112

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    Quote Originally Posted by Redneckmoparman View Post
    They make specific hoses designed for being submerged in a gas tank and if you dont get them and just use regular hoses they will do exactly what is in that picture
    Excellent point sir. It also doesn't help that the gas was getting to be two years old.

    Its been a while since the aftermarket pump install so not sure on all the details. I do remember that the walboro pump wasn't quite as wide as the original so I had used the factory hose as a shim to take up the extra space between pump and sender assembly. It was still in place with no damage so I used it to replace the blown hose.

    However it wasn't only the rubber hose but also the rubber insulators for the pump. One that wraps around the pump and one that the pump sits in. Both melted. Cant remember if all those rubber pieces were the ones that came with the walboro pump. I do know that I used the original mitsubishi plastic/screen pickup filter.

  13. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    I'm sure everyone here wants to see a photo of the mole after your done with him, lol.

    I never seen fuel hose do that before...though with the crap they stick in gas today I'm not surprised.
    No moles were hurt during the fuel pump replacement. lol I was too busy fixing the truck to worry about critters. I just filled the hole back in as well as I could.

    Yesterday I drained the tank completely. Next I added 2 gallons of fresh gas and ran the engine for about 15minutes. Then I drained it again and filled it with 5 gallons fresh gas with fuel stabilizer.

  14. #114

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    Ethanol would be the likely culprit. It will eat some fuel hoses and even dissolve cheaper fuel filters (it attacks the glue holding the filter screen in place - yay, dissolved glue heading for your fuel delivery...)

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Ethanol would be the likely culprit. It will eat some fuel hoses and even dissolve cheaper fuel filters (it attacks the glue holding the filter screen in place - yay, dissolved glue heading for your fuel delivery...)
    Theres a few places around my way that sell marine grade/ethanol free fuel. Its over a dollar more a gallon than regular. The regular fuel is supposed to be 10% blended but Ive heard that it can be 15-20. A wiser man than I had recommended I get the ethanol free for my lawn equipment and carbureted vehicles to help save them from failing rubber parts in fuel. Hopefully the new fuel I just put in my truck with stabilizer will hold me over for now. Also need to run the truck more to keep the fuel from sitting.

  16. #116

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    Far as I know here in Australia it is illegal to sell regular fuel without identifying if it has ethanol content (there's a price difference between regular and the blended E10 stuff) but no doubt it has been cut by the corporations to make money as there's no fuel excise levy on ethanol. I avoid running it in anything now as it has a bad reputation for causing all sorts of grief. You can add a fuel stabiliser to the tank if you know it's going to be getting on and off use.

  17. #117

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    wow a dollar more thats crazy but thats what you get for "marine grade" the 2 stations around me that have ethanol free are only 87octane and the same or 10cents more than premium but alas i dont run much 87 anymore

  18. #118

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    Australias' RON on regular unleaded is 91 (well, rumoured 91 RON...) 87 RON? Man, what do they think you'll be running something with that lower rating? Our E10 is meant to have a rating of 94 RON but it has unstable combustion characteristics and would more than likely have any percentage of ethanol without the consumer really knowing what's in it.

  19. #119

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    Damn guys .....we should start a whole new thread on fuel quality. haha!

    Theres a technical service bulletin put out by mazda that shows how to test it. Have to see If I can dig it out and share.

    I only run shell v-power premium in my acura integra since it has a fresh rebuild with high compression pistons. Ill probably start doing the same with my mighty max. The fuel injectors and fuel pump for the truck were bought brand new but are still several years old just with very low miles. It would probably be a good investment to give them the good stuff.

  20. #120



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    Ethanol Free Fuel for USA & Canada

    ethanolfree.jpg
    http://pure-gas.org/



    Doesn't Shell contain H2O? Well, they call it hydrogen instead, lol. I remember back in the day, Shell almost went down because of a scam where they were mixing water in their fuels.
    Last edited by BradMph; 09-20-2014 at 10:49 PM.

  21. #121

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    It was the 'country' fuel supplies that were contaminated by condensation in their underground holding tanks (yeah, right...) We had the same problem here way back in the day - motorists were advised to carry a bottle of methylated spirits to add to the garbage fuel. It allowed the water to become soluble. It works and can help you deal with contaminated fuel if you ever get unlucky...

  22. #122




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    use sta-bil marine ethanol treatment in all of your vehicles - it negates the effects of ethanol in your tank. I run it in all my cars and it makes them run much better. My 92 Prelude mpg went up 3-5 mpg when I run it in the fuel.
    Pennyman1
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  23. #123

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    Got a new plan forming for some bagging. A friend of mine is in need of funds and ready to get rid of his bagged 1990 s10 project. I know hes got a lot invested but just needs to unload it to pay the bills. The stuff is old but I doubt its seen any real road time as hes never even had it street legal. Im fairly sure it was quality new stuff that he bought.

    The truck is in poor shape n doesn't run but its got the bags, mounts, notches, lines, tanks, valves, engine mounted sanden compressor. Its got front n back but he says needs more valves to get side to side. The parts would be very affordable once I get the truck stripped and scrapped as I have no desire to build an s10 any time soon. Theres no four link, just single leaf spring.

    Im hoping to cut out and reuse as much as possible but I don't want it to be an ugly mess. Gonna go look it over tonight to check it out. Any suggestions? Im thinking make sure the bags aren't all dried up n cracking and hopefully no moisture got into the compressor from sitting.

  24. #124




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    you may even be able to swap the single leaf over to your truck. You probably can part the rest of it out to other s10 fools that think their trucks are the bomb (they are)...
    Pennyman1
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  25. #125

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    you may even be able to swap the single leaf over to your truck. You probably can part the rest of it out to other s10 fools that think their trucks are the bomb (they are)...
    I am 99% sure the "Mighty Max" lowering leafs I got off eBay are S10 leafs.

    Have you thought about simply swapping the MM cab and bed onto the S10 frame? The frame dimensions and layouts are so similar. The firewall might be a pain. But maybe worth a few minutes with a measuring tape. If you had MM looks but kept the S10 guts underneath, you'd instantly have 5 trillion options for parts. Just a thought.

    P.S. The 2nd Gen S10 is one of the ugliest minitrucks ever, as bad as the Isuzu Space Cab. The boxy S10 was cool though.

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