The Fear Monger

[camoit]

The machine shop started on my engine today BUT then they called me to confirm some information. The final decisions are are now made for the engine. 500 cfm carb. 6000 RPM redline. 6800 RPM free spin. Revlimiter set to 5700 RPm. Power band from 1500 RPM to 5000 RPM. Now with that change the cam profile changed from the first idea of using fuel injection. Larger selection of cams. So now with the new cam comes diferant roler lifters. Diferant valve springs. And gear drive. ARP head studs and rod bolts. 7 QT oil pan. Millings high volume oil pump. I don't want to spend another $4200 to dry sump it. But that would give me another 50 HP and push it to 400 HP. 27 LB lightend fly wheel. Flat top pistons 9.7 to 1 compression. Port and polish job, Raidous exhuast valve grind, 3 angle intake grind. Mainfold port and angle matching. Roler rockers. Custom leingth chrome alloy push rods. I will put together a full speck sheet when the engine is done along with a price sheet.






Time for the engine update now that’s it’s built.

Here is my engine builder Glenn Hutchison. He has been working for his dad and building race engines for nearly 30 years.
The business is located in Sacramento Ca. If you want to have them build you an engine don’t be in a hurry. The big race engines come first unless that’s what you want and can spend. They can be reached at 916-483-9563.



They have engines shipped to them from all around the globe to be built up. They curently have 4 big blocks in from Australia. They run around $80,000 to rebuild. Since I didn’t have that kind of cash to burn I just let them do there thing at there owne speed. It shows in the work they do. My block was clean enough you could eat off of it.





Here is the long awaited engine specifications for the Chevy 4.3 L V6.
I used a 1992 GMC Jimmy 4.3L V6 early model block. No counter shaft on the early model blocks. The heads are 1997 Vorteh heads.

We will start off by telling you that the exhaust valves have a radius cut. This improves the flow. The pockets have been ported and polished out. The intake and heads have been port matched. The intake flange angles have been matched to the heads. The intake valves now have a 3 angle grind.








Specifications:
Comp Cam
Part Number: 09-430-8 Grind Number: C43 280H-R10
Lifter Type: HYD. Roller
Engine Family: Chevrolet 4.3 liter 262 c.i. 90° 6 CYL. 1980-1997
Description: Hydraulic Roller-Limited high performance street use. Needs intake, headers & stall, 3.73 to 4.10 gears. Mild rough idle.
Cam Family: Magnum™ 1987-Present Originally Equipped With Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, NON-BALANCE SHAFT
Specifications
RPM Range: 2000 to 5500
Valve Timing: 0.006
Lobe-Center Angle: 110
Intake Center-line: 106

Intake Exhaust
Valve Lash: HYD. HYD.
Duration: 280 280
Duration @ .050" Lift: 224 224
Valve Lift: 525 525
Lobe Lift: 352 352
Valve Timing @ 0.006 Lift:
Exhaust Closes 26 ATDC Opens 74 BBDC
106 Center-line
Intake 34 Opens BTDC 66 Closes ABDC


PRW Race Roller lifters.
PRW 350 Stainless Steel Roller Rockers.





Block Bore Dia. 4.030.
Cam Gear Drive.




Crank Saddle Bore Dia. 2.641.
Federal Mogul TWR Forged Piston.




Chamber VOL. 62cc.
Comp Ratio 10.1:1.
Rings Perfect Circle 40564 CP .030.
Rods are stock.
Duel Head Springs MFG.Ed Iskenderian #6005.
135 LBS. Press.
ARP Rod Bolts and Head Studs.





Edelbrock Intake #2111.
Edelbrock Carb 650 CFM 4 barrel EDL-1806.
Edelbrock Carb Spacer # 9266.

MSD #6430 Ignition MSD 6TN/6ALN NASCAR CD Ignitions.
MSD #8597 Ignition – MSD Pro-Billete Distributors.
MSD #8680 – MSD Adjustable Timing Control.
MSD #8252 Ignition Coil, Blaster HVC, E-Core, Square, Epoxy, Blue, 42,000 V,

Champ Oil pan.
Millings High Volume Oil Pump.
HP 350.









Now on to the rims, brakes and stud problems. I would like to thank every one that voted on the rims. Well you said to get the ones with the larger holes and that is what I did. The first problem was the studs. With the new aluminum rims the stock studs were too short. So off I went to the parts store with a vernier caliper and 1 stud from the front and rear hubs. After several hours I found some that would work. The front ones were a direct replacement with no modification. But the rear was another story. The rear is now a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44. The new studs were the correct length I needed but the shoulders were to long. So I had to grind them down to allow the brake rotor to lay flat on the hub. The best way to grind them down evenly was to put them in them in the drill press chuck and spin them while I hit them with the grinder.




Now to make sure that the rotor was seating all the way down flat on the hub I used my paint pen. I made some marks on the hubs and then placed the rotor on the hub. If it seats the paint will transfer to the rotor. I had 1 or 2 studs that did not allow the rotor to lay flat. So I then used a counter sink bit to take off just a little bit from the inside of the rotor around the stud holes. Keep in mind that rotors are made of some soft material so its easy to remove to much real quick. Installing new studs is easy with a lug nut and some washers. Just use the impact gun and they go on real fast with no banging of the hammer or chance of shocking bearings.


Parking Brakes.
This was a challenge in it’s self to figure out how to connect a 1980 D-50 parking system to a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo. I was able to use the stock parts for some of the transfer. Parking lever, cable and mechanical leverage with saddle that is located under your truck. I did need to flip the mounting bracket upside down to accommodate the new trany mount and location. Next was the process of attaching the Isuzu cables to the intermediate cable. I had to have a cable made up that you'd give me lots of adjustment in three places. Then I had to figure out how to connect the adjusting ends to the Isuzu cable ends. Isuzu uses some hammer head style cable ends. So how do you go from this to a threaded rod end? Well the best thing I could come up with is what you see here.



This is not the finished product. You want to pull a cable in a straight line when ever you can The finished part has a 90 degree off set to alien the cables. I used a peace of solid rod that I threaded to receive the new cable ends. The Hammer Head ends worked them self out with the use of two frame gussets. This made for a nice clean clamp that could not let go of the ends when torqued down. More pictures on the brake system to come. Please look back later for an up date.



Exhaust System is built..
exhuast_wraped.gif


The truck went to the Header and exhaust shop over the last two weeks. I took it to a guy called “Dom”
His web site is http://www.dgheaders.com
Dom and his dad have a shop in Auburn Ca. called M & M Mufflers.







Him and his father have been building header for drag boats and Salt Flat cars for years. Here is there car they drive in Utah. The last time they went they broke the rear end at 165 MPH and spun the car around but it did stay up right,,,, this time.






The headers had to be split into single tubes to allow for removal from the truck. Each header tube 34.25 inches long, then run down to the 3 into 1 collectors. Here is the left header under construction.






It was a two week fight to get the system to fit the truck. He was hopping to run a single pipe system but that had to be changed to a duel system. Due to the lack of space and all the moving parts of the 3 link rear end. There was just no way to get it over the rear end, and keep it out of the way. Here is the finished system. Next it goes out for the ceramic coating guy. This should make for some interesting pictures. I have no idea how what the process is.