We do our best to steer you right (pun intended).
We do our best to steer you right (pun intended).
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Well I did my horn pad repair, sorta, but it is still doing the same thing. As soon as I put the ignition key in the horn starts wailing on it's own. The horn pad itself isn't activating the horn and I know for certain that it is not making contact to activate the horn. I'm stumped. Could it be I have a faulty horn? I removed it and the exterior is rusty, but the connections all seem to look OK. My mechanical skills are limited to say the least, but I do like to attempt repairs before I take it to a Pro.
Any other suggestions of what it could be?
I'll post photos tomorrow when I get to my desk top PC of the horn pad repair.
Possibly the wire has worn through and is earthing out somewhere in the loom.
You probably want to trace it back through the loom. You could put a multimeter on the horn switch to confirm that its going open circuit
Check that you haven't accidentally bridged the circuit when you tried fixing the horn pad. If it was o.k. before the horn malfunctioned the chances are it's still the horn pad. A crusty/rusted out horn 'normally' wouldn't go off by itself - they either don't work or sound terrible.
Last edited by geezer101; 03-08-2018 at 08:30 PM.
Mitsubishihorn1.jpg
This is what was under the horn pad when I got started. An old T-shirt with duct tape. Apparently either my brother or my Dad attempted a repair in the past that didn't quite work either. LOL!
Mitsubishihorn2.jpg
The copper contact was pretty dirty/corroded as was the metal base. I took a stripper wheel to the metal base and went online to see about cleaning the copper contact. Low and behold Ketchup was suggested as a cleaning agent. After about 30 mins of soaking it came out pretty nice.
Mitsubishihorn3.jpgMitsubishihorn4.jpgMitsubishihorn10.jpgMitsubishihorn5.jpg
I had some leftover seat foam out in the garage that I used for the repair. I cut two pieces making sure only the middle portion of the copper contact made contact with the metal base when pressed.
Mitsubishihorn13.jpgMitsubishihorn14.jpgMitsubishihorn8.jpg
I ended up shaving the top piece of foam slightly thinner than shown because it made the cover bulge more than I liked, but it felt pretty good when pressing the horn pad. Unfortunately I still have an issue, but hopefully in the coming weeks I'll get a chance to track down the issue.
Thanks for yall's input and if there are any other suggestions I am all ears!
Last edited by GPD294; 03-05-2018 at 09:49 AM.
I came across this discussion of the horn: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado which got me thinking. I am wondering if when my brother changed the steering wheel out with the after market one if he removed the ring that sits behind the steering wheel itself? I don't remember what was behind there when I re-installed the original wheel.
It would sorta make sense because when I would put the ignition key in, the horn would start wailing, but when I turned the steering wheel it would change the horn's pitch. Hmmm??? Looks like I need to pull the steering wheel off again and check if that ring is there.
At least I have a lead now...LOL!
Well attempt #2...I removed the horn pad, steering wheel, and disassembled everything for a good cleaning. Since I didn't take any of this apart, my brother did when he added the smaller aftermarket steering wheel, I'm assuming I have my wiring wrong maybe?
Mitsubishihorne.jpg
This is how it was wired before
Mitsubishihornf.jpg
This is how I re-wired it, but it still didn't work. (I did attach that little tab seen here to the wire and this is where the wire from the horn pad attaches.
There is no copper ring behind the steering wheel like explained in the other post. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado There is metal ring with a wire attached which is part of the steering wheel itself. A thin yellowish metal tab rubs against this metal ring making contact at all times. I cleaned all these contact points. If something is missing please let me know. This is getting a little frustrating.
Mitsubishihorna.jpg Mitsubishihornb.jpg
I did clean all the contacts and even played with the wiring behind the steering pad to no avail.
Mitsubishihornc.jpg Mitsubishihornd.jpg
If anyone who has a functioning horn pad can please post a photo of where what goes where as far as wiring I'd greatly appreciate it....Thanks guys in advance!
Last edited by GPD294; 03-09-2018 at 07:13 AM.
Mitsubishihorng.jpg
On a side note, does anyone know what attaches to this plug? It is just dangling just below the fuse box?
Last edited by GPD294; 03-10-2018 at 07:56 PM.
I'm VICTORIOUS!!!!!! Guess who has been annoying the neighbors just driving around the block HONKING that DAM HORN? LOL!
Apparently I was making contact at the metal base and copper contact where the wire is attached on top of the horn pad. I used tacky "home door frame" weatherstripping instead of the seat foam because it doesn't move. It stays in place so it doesn't cause the unwanted contact.
Again I appreciate the help guys and I hope if anyone else has the same problem this helps yall as well.
Last edited by GPD294; 03-10-2018 at 07:58 PM.
Hey Guys/Gals...Next on the list is figuring out the BRAKE light on the dash cluster. It stays ON regardless if the Emergency Brake is ON or OFF. Any suggestions?
Check your brake fluid level
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
^ and make sure the float switch in the reservoir isn't stuck/jammed.
I'll check both of these suggestions and post my findings when I get some time...Thanks!
Check the brake fluid level sensor in the brake reservoir. Might be jammed or your brake fluid is actually low.
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That plug is your OBDI port.
If the brake fluid level was low, check for fluid leaks in the engine bay & around the brake master cylinder ---- DON'T do like me ---- Let your truck's inner fender rust out from brake fluid taking off the paint..!
Also the brake fluid was low so that took care of that as well.
Not much to report on old girl, but the other day as I was driving her around I heard some popping sounds when shifting gears from the exhaust possibly? It normally happens when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear when accelerating.
Any ideas?
As always thanks for all the help. Even though I don't comment much I do read yall's posts.
i get a popping sound on idle, your carb might need tuning. thats what fixed mine. but mine started popping after i instelled my new manifolw w/o egr and cat and res
Well guys I hate to report this, but I sold my Dad's Mighty Max. I just didn't drive it enough to warrant keeping it. I did get first right of refusal to buy it back if the new owner decides to part with it some day. I sold it to a friend of mine's nephew. Young kid who works for a local FORD dealership who needed a basic form of transportation so as far as that goes I felt good about it. At least the truck will get driven and serve it's purpose rather than just sitting.
I just wanted to thank you all who helped me answer questions and/or gave suggestions for various things I need help with.
I'll still occasionally browse the site and see what you guys are up too.
Thanks again and take care!
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