Distributor with the trigger wheel for EFI conversion

[STL]

Hi all,

First of all, happy new year to you all and families.

I am still using my little truck for some work around the house (wood, stones ... and going to the beach :-)):

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...x4-from-Europe

I have not done a lot of mechanics on it but now I have to do the timing and as it is running far to reach I was into a weber swap.

But I may change my mind and try an EFI conversion (TBI) with a MaxxEcu mini for two reasons. First, this is something I would like to learn (I have other old cars from the 90s that are already EFI but that may need to use modern parts in the near future when original parts are no longer available) and, second, I may switch between Gasoline and Ethanol (E85), particularly in summer, E85 being half the price here in France. There will some extra costs as regards to a weber swap as I would have to buy the ECU.

Learning about how to do the conversion, my main blocking point now is the crankshaft sensor (I think I am pretty ok with the rest). I don't want to pull out the engine to have a proper access to the crank pulley and the block to assess whether I can put a trigger wheel and a sensor on the crank pulley (unless someone has already worked on a solution for a G63B) and I am thinking at converting my distributor into a cam sensor for the ECU and use wasted spark, that is to keep only the gear, the shaft and the body of the distributor and put a trigger wheel inside with a sensor.

Here are my questions:

1/ Did someone already studied that solution?

2/ I don't want to use my distributor to explore this idea. I would rather prefer to use a used distributor that I could dismantle for my R&D/learning. My guess is that I don't have specifically for a G63B distributor but distributors for other Mitsubishi engines would work too. Example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126826767483

The distributor (on my engine) is this one (so I believe):

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/md104695

The idea is to find something relatively cheap that would fit (the mechanical part of it) but I am unsure about how to cross reference it (my guess is that there are many potential candidates in the Mitsubishi engines). I was although thinking that an electronic ignition one would be a better starting point (less parts to remove).

Many thanks in advance for your help!

[xboxrox]

Hello STL

My truck 1986 Dodge Power Ram 50 still original... Its needed a lot to keep it running well (new clutch, clutch cable, rebuilt Mikuni carb, non Jet Valve cylinder head, distributor vacuum advance diaphragm, front wheel bearings, rear brakes and soon a new radiator) I am sure more has been done new spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, spark plig cables, ignition control module, ignition coil, catalytic converter, 02 sensor, muffler, etc...

YouTube has videos of Filipinos installing simple Toyota brand 2bbl carburetors onto Mitsubishi Lancer vehicles by fabricating a manifold to carburetor adapter (two steel plates & two short tubes some welding) used a manual choke cable...
https://youtu.be/I9Z4MS7Rc5A?si=d8ZoFBozjo3DrRzl
https://youtu.be/F4kl6MF2SiY?si=O4N0ouwJypuMSW0V

IMHO keep it simple & cheap (make sure the battery passes load test, DO NOT use dielectric grease on electrical connections instead use electrical contact cleaners & electrical contact lubricants that conduct electricity)
https://youtu.be/n6IekMX4DvE?si=VZGMZO0ULP26UbYg
GOOD LUCK

[STL]

Thank you for your response and the info xboxrox!

The videos are very interesting. What are the benefits of using a Toyota 4K carburetor instead of a cheap carbs for Mitsubishi engine? I am not sure they are using OEM parts.

[SubGothius]

Those Filipino guys are prolly just working with what they have readily available. Not sure why anyone would try to adapt a Toyota carb here when Weber carbs and adapter plates for our intakes are readily available and reasonably priced here.

If you go the Weber route, do take care to get a genuine Weber. The Chinese clones only licensed the general design and name/logo, but aren't made to the same exacting tolerances and often can't be tuned properly; those have a smooth/shiny finish with the Weber name/logo only on an ink stamp, decal or tag. Genuine Webers have a rough/dull finish with the Weber name/logo and "Made in Spain" cast right into the body itself. Clones also usually have a black plastic electric choke housing, whereas genuine Webers usually have an off-white housing; however, this isn't a dead giveaway as choke elements can be swapped (e.g., to upgrade a Weber manual choke to electric, or to make a clone look more authentic).

If you want to pursue the injection idea, this guy has been adapting an Aces throttle-body injection kit:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...rket-Injection

Not sure if a crank trigger wheel and sensor would even be necessary when the electronic distributor can provide a timing signal. My Lancia with Bosch L-Jetronic port injection just uses the distributor to provide a timing signal to the ECU.

[STL]

Say for instance something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304864062401 ... I know I know (my preference would be for a Weber 38 but that is not the same investment).

[STL]

For the injection route, there is a interesting option now for a carburated 4G63:

https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/15...throttle-body/

that would, I suppose, bolt on the weber adaptor kit K614. The additional cost would be the ECU (for Europe I am thinking MaxxEcu mini) but I would need to get a crank ignal. I am not sure that I can use an electronic distributor only and not add a trigger wheel into it (which I thnik I can do -- through 3D modelling). Hence my question about which disitributor would fit in my engine (givien that I only need the mechanical part working). I don't want to sabotage my current distributor.

[xboxrox]

Thank you for your response and the info xboxrox!

The videos are very interesting. What are the benefits of using a Toyota 4K carburetor instead of a cheap carbs for Mitsubishi engine? I am not sure they are using OEM parts.

Good Points STL and I have not researched BUT I think the Toyota 4K carb although 2bbl is it not for a Corolla car which I believe has a smaller displacement engine so it might not work well ??? Maybe the Filipinos have easier access to Toyota brand new factory parts ?? Far as I know you will not find a new factory Mitsubishi Mikuni carb anywhere even at ebay ANF IF you did it won't come cheap.!!!

Someone here on the MR50 forum was posting about his throttle body fuel injection project might be a Holly or Eldelbrock.???

Your project is pretty swell

[STL]

As for the initial question :-) ... which distributor I can look for to savage? It seems that a lot of model share the same sort of distributor.

Would I that do the job for instance? (given that I only need the mechanical parts) https://www.ebay.com/itm/126826767483

Thanks for the help!

[dash]

Dunno what sorta pickup carb 2.0 or 2.6 versions run their distributor, but the starion 2.0/2.6 pickups wire directly to the popular old GM HEI $20 4-pin module
Compatible with many EFI conversions. They "lock" the mechanical and vacuum advance, physically.... -IF- you want your ecu to control timing ...instead of the simpler fuel-only
Oem 2.4 MPI 'bolt-on' 2nd gen G63 trucks...dunno about the 1st gen ? 2.4 distribtors has the same trigger wheel/CAS as the DOHC 4G63

[xboxrox]

Haynes manual shows two distributors used covering the 1988 era...

Nippondenso type 1986 to 1989
Mitsubishi type 1984 to 1989