Webber Carburator Fuel Pump

[FMS88]

Ill try and add some photos, currently I see thicker line that is the fuel into mech pump, another fuel line that is hooked to back to tank of the mech pump between two brake lines, and then that vapor line in the back, closest to the firewall.

Of the three fuel lines attached to the inside of the driver's side frame rail, the middle one is the return line. From your description, it looks like you attached the return line to the fuel pump. If so, that's what you want since it's closest to the original fuel line routing. You can either cap the regulator's return port or get a "T" and join it to the original return line. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure the regulator's output pressures. If both ports measure the same, I think you can cap the return port. If the return port is greater, join it to the original return line. Then test drive it to make sure fuel pressure and flow are sufficient for the Weber.

[Tonka]

I took your advice and all is alot better, I also got a cheap timing light from harbor freight for 30 bucks. I don't know why, but I thought using the thing would be really complicated, it was pretty easy setting the thing up to 9 degress BTDC. Shoved a cheap BT headunit in from Walmart in aswell.

Next steps are to go ahead and shove some headers, weld a 2' exhaust and put in a 38/38 with a modded OEM intake. Pray for me boys, this will be a challenge!

I anyone has any advice on this, let me know. Thinking of using a glasspack as a resonator and then a magnaflow muffler from a mustang (cheap on FB) with 2.5' ports. One day want to delete the balance shafts, but not too sure if I'd be able to pull them out with the block still in the bay without ramming into the radiator. hmmm..... Jet valves also are on the list haha

[Tonka]

Hey also, does anyone know if BradMPH is still around? I wanted to send him this message but I found he was last active in 2021...

Hello,

Found a post of yours on Ebay headers for the Mighty Max. Noticed you opted for the L300 headers as opposed to the L200 headers. I also saw you had them modified to fit the engine bay a bit better.

Is there a reason for this? Personally, I already have the L300 headers being shipped (didn't realize the difference and just copied you haha), so I kinda got to make do, but I'm curious. Also, if you have any more info on the adjustments you did to the exhaust headers, let me know.

Thanks!

Btw, I have a 1989 Dodge Ram 50 (USA)

If anyone else knows, feel free to answer. Was hoping to contact him as his past contributions to this site have been very useful in my research.

[Tonka]

Went ahead and ported the intake to make it an oval. Used a dremel and JB weld lol. I don't have access to much since im a student in the dorms. But after some time and sanding everything down, it was opened up pretty well and flush. Struggled to seal the intake back on after ripping it off, but learned alot and got it on after some time lol. Recorded some of it - https://youtu.be/UfNKeaBQAxQ

Also slapped on the 38/38, jerks like crazy with the acceleration from the sync barrels. Crazy, but pretty fun after I got used to it.

Now I'm working to get the OEM cleaner to fit on the thing, heres some pics ------

[Tonka]

https://imgur.com/a/irDf6IL

[Tonka]

Does anyone know the difference between the base model and the sport model by any chance? Tmmr I'm hoping to pick up a tach equipped dash from a MM sport model. If the thing came standard with LSD, I might just buy the thing outright, since he just wants $500 (non-running parts car). That way I can steal the power steering, LSD, Dash, and other random things to play with if needed.

[Tonka]

I JUST HAD THE CRAZIEST IDEA

(This car above btw is a 1993 MM 2.4L)

Bear with me, it's 2am...

I take the 2.4L head (8V 4G64) and put it on my 2.0L block (G63B).

The intake manifold gasket is the same, the exhaust manifold gasket is the same, head gasket is the same, and the belt *probably* fits

[Tonka]

What are the differences between the G63B block and 4G64 block? If they are similar I should be able to achieve the power gains of the 2.4L with just the head right?

I'll never fall asleep now...

Hopefully I can buy this truck tmmr.....

[SubGothius]

The power difference was mostly a matter of larger displacement in the short block (bore x stroke of 85 x 88 mm vs. 86.5 x 100 mm) and also fuel injection, so just swapping the 8v SOHC heads won't make much if any difference in power unless maybe the 4G64 head has a smaller combustion chamber, which would raise your effective compression ratio slightly.

I'd expect the 4G64 head gasket to have a slightly larger cylinder diameter to match that bore, so use the 4G63/G63B (the B variant indicates a jet-valve head AFAICT) head gasket to match your block bore diameter. Also check that the 4G64 combustion chamber is fully enclosed within the G63 gasket's cylinder diameter when you line up that gasket against it, and also compare the coolant and oil gallery passages. If the deck-to-cam-center distance is the same for both, the G63 belt should prolly work.

[Tonka]

Ah, that's a shame.

Good news though! I was able to pick up the Sport Cluster which was easy to install. Tach didn't work, but I ran a wire from the Neg Ignition coil to the IG - on the back of the dash. I ran another wire from the OPU on the back of the dash and spliced it to the connecter to the oil pressure switch. I should have a sender in here pretty soon so works correctly.

Got the Jet Valves out, was pretty easy, but it did require pulling out the top of the valve train.

[Tonka]

Been trying to install an electric fan, while I was at it I ended up buying this aluminum radiator off of Ebay that was listed for our trucks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387716535781

It was cheap, but of course it didnt fit

But what I didnt expect was that it was MUCH taller than the OE radiator, so it hits a support on the bottom. I'm not sure what that support is called, but do you all reckon I can chop into it (or potentially chop it straight off?). Might not be wise to buzz into the frame, but kinda like this radiator, and I got an electric fan mounted so nicely onto it.

[Tonka]

https://imgur.com/a/iejyXB6

Been a bit since I posted an update.

Lots has happened...

1. Got those L300 headers to fit in the ram 50, turns out alot is possible with a welder

2. Got that oversized radiator to fit, with the help of a $15 harbor freight grinder

3. Redid the interior with SEM dye, and got seat reupholstered

Biggest takeaway is that alot is possible when you can cut, weld, and paint things haha. If anyone else has any interest in redoing their plastic/vinyl interiors, I really recommend the SEM stuff, super durable, been using it for a month now and even the bare steering wheel is holding up to direct rubbing and contact.

[Tonka]

I have a new ambition however for this year. Mighty Max Turbo!

Originally I wanted to do a 4g63 swap, but think that the process seems way out of reach for a guy like me in college, mainly due to the firewall not clearing, and my AC needing to be redone if I go through. Not to mention cost, engine alone is $1500 on the lowest end, but realistically I'd want a donor Eclipse, running me a startup $5000 and probably total cost around $8000 or so.

So I won't be doing that....

Also thought about a head swap, but that seems to run into similar firewall issues, kills mpg, requires a harness, and doesn't really simplify much as compared to the whole engine swap.

So, I've settled on a blow-through turbo setup for the G63B engine, it should be possible for about $1500 - $2000.

Parts needed:

1. 20+ psi electric fuel pump (~$150, probably Walboro, unsure)
2. Boost referenced fpr (DONE, $100 https://www.carburetion.com/Products...Part=31800.064)
3. Weber turbo hat ($200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/275383101728)
4. Turbo, probably will go with td05h 14b from a galant, about $100 used fb marketplace
5. 4G63 turbo headers (~$150 used fb marketplace)
6. MSD boost control (~$250 used fb marketplace)
7. AFR gauge, sensor

[Tonka]

7. AFR gauge, sensor, etc... (~$300 used fb marketplace)
8. Ducting, wastegate, intake, etc ($250 probably lol)

Only real issue so far is the turbo manifold/header situation, no one makes them for the Mighty Max, originally I was going to weld something weird together, but the current plan is to have a g63b to 4g63 adapter made online, I found some sites that can do that haha. Gotta do some computer design though.

Has anyone ever used an adapter for an exhaust though? Not seeing much about this online, seems like it could give our trucks access to 4g63 parts. Not sure why it wouldn't work.

Also, if anyone has experience with blow through / turbos, let me know any tips, I really have no clue what I'm doing lol, I'm using the 32/36 for this