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Thread: Webber Carburator Fuel Pump

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonka View Post
    Ill try and add some photos, currently I see thicker line that is the fuel into mech pump, another fuel line that is hooked to back to tank of the mech pump between two brake lines, and then that vapor line in the back, closest to the firewall.
    Of the three fuel lines attached to the inside of the driver's side frame rail, the middle one is the return line. From your description, it looks like you attached the return line to the fuel pump. If so, that's what you want since it's closest to the original fuel line routing. You can either cap the regulator's return port or get a "T" and join it to the original return line. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure the regulator's output pressures. If both ports measure the same, I think you can cap the return port. If the return port is greater, join it to the original return line. Then test drive it to make sure fuel pressure and flow are sufficient for the Weber.

  2. #27

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    I took your advice and all is alot better, I also got a cheap timing light from harbor freight for 30 bucks. I don't know why, but I thought using the thing would be really complicated, it was pretty easy setting the thing up to 9 degress BTDC. Shoved a cheap BT headunit in from Walmart in aswell.

    Next steps are to go ahead and shove some headers, weld a 2' exhaust and put in a 38/38 with a modded OEM intake. Pray for me boys, this will be a challenge!

    I anyone has any advice on this, let me know. Thinking of using a glasspack as a resonator and then a magnaflow muffler from a mustang (cheap on FB) with 2.5' ports. One day want to delete the balance shafts, but not too sure if I'd be able to pull them out with the block still in the bay without ramming into the radiator. hmmm..... Jet valves also are on the list haha

  3. #28

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    Hey also, does anyone know if BradMPH is still around? I wanted to send him this message but I found he was last active in 2021...

    Hello,

    Found a post of yours on Ebay headers for the Mighty Max. Noticed you opted for the L300 headers as opposed to the L200 headers. I also saw you had them modified to fit the engine bay a bit better.

    Is there a reason for this? Personally, I already have the L300 headers being shipped (didn't realize the difference and just copied you haha), so I kinda got to make do, but I'm curious. Also, if you have any more info on the adjustments you did to the exhaust headers, let me know.

    Thanks!

    Btw, I have a 1989 Dodge Ram 50 (USA)

    If anyone else knows, feel free to answer. Was hoping to contact him as his past contributions to this site have been very useful in my research.

  4. #29

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    Went ahead and ported the intake to make it an oval. Used a dremel and JB weld lol. I don't have access to much since im a student in the dorms. But after some time and sanding everything down, it was opened up pretty well and flush. Struggled to seal the intake back on after ripping it off, but learned alot and got it on after some time lol. Recorded some of it - https://youtu.be/UfNKeaBQAxQ

    Also slapped on the 38/38, jerks like crazy with the acceleration from the sync barrels. Crazy, but pretty fun after I got used to it.

    Now I'm working to get the OEM cleaner to fit on the thing, heres some pics ------

  5. #30

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  6. #31

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    Does anyone know the difference between the base model and the sport model by any chance? Tmmr I'm hoping to pick up a tach equipped dash from a MM sport model. If the thing came standard with LSD, I might just buy the thing outright, since he just wants $500 (non-running parts car). That way I can steal the power steering, LSD, Dash, and other random things to play with if needed.

  7. #32

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    I JUST HAD THE CRAZIEST IDEA

    (This car above btw is a 1993 MM 2.4L)

    Bear with me, it's 2am...

    I take the 2.4L head (8V 4G64) and put it on my 2.0L block (G63B).

    The intake manifold gasket is the same, the exhaust manifold gasket is the same, head gasket is the same, and the belt *probably* fits

  8. #33

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    What are the differences between the G63B block and 4G64 block? If they are similar I should be able to achieve the power gains of the 2.4L with just the head right?

    I'll never fall asleep now...

    Hopefully I can buy this truck tmmr.....

  9. #34


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    The power difference was mostly a matter of larger displacement in the short block (bore x stroke of 85 x 88 mm vs. 86.5 x 100 mm) and also fuel injection, so just swapping the 8v SOHC heads won't make much if any difference in power unless maybe the 4G64 head has a smaller combustion chamber, which would raise your effective compression ratio slightly.

    I'd expect the 4G64 head gasket to have a slightly larger cylinder diameter to match that bore, so use the 4G63/G63B (the B variant indicates a jet-valve head AFAICT) head gasket to match your block bore diameter. Also check that the 4G64 combustion chamber is fully enclosed within the G63 gasket's cylinder diameter when you line up that gasket against it, and also compare the coolant and oil gallery passages. If the deck-to-cam-center distance is the same for both, the G63 belt should prolly work.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  10. #35

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    Ah, that's a shame.

    Good news though! I was able to pick up the Sport Cluster which was easy to install. Tach didn't work, but I ran a wire from the Neg Ignition coil to the IG - on the back of the dash. I ran another wire from the OPU on the back of the dash and spliced it to the connecter to the oil pressure switch. I should have a sender in here pretty soon so works correctly.

    Got the Jet Valves out, was pretty easy, but it did require pulling out the top of the valve train.

  11. #36

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    Been trying to install an electric fan, while I was at it I ended up buying this aluminum radiator off of Ebay that was listed for our trucks.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/387716535781

    It was cheap, but of course it didnt fit

    But what I didnt expect was that it was MUCH taller than the OE radiator, so it hits a support on the bottom. I'm not sure what that support is called, but do you all reckon I can chop into it (or potentially chop it straight off?). Might not be wise to buzz into the frame, but kinda like this radiator, and I got an electric fan mounted so nicely onto it.

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